[ForestHillsJackie]

I’m in the process of changing the 8 hoses and radiator, but I can only work a couple hours here and there, so it’s been stop and start. Today I got the radiator out and attempted to change the heater core hoses. Got the lower one done no problem (except I whacked my elbow pretty hard on the power steering reservoir bolts — the ones designed to poke out an eye).

But I can’t get the stupid spring clamp in position with the hose. I can get the hose on, but then the spring clamp won’t slide up. And if I put the spring clamp on the aluminum nipple first, I can’t maneuver the hose under it. Are there any tips? Why is this a spring clamp? Why can’t it be a worm drive?

<shakes fist at the sky>

Sincerely,
Jackie

[Efthreeoh]

Just use a worm drive hose clamp.

[StradaRedlands]

It looks really dry, put some coolant on the nipple and hose. Then use pliers to open up the clamp while you put it on. If that doesn't help, then yeah, regular clamp.

[PhaceN52]

As StradaRedlands said use pliers on that clamp, it locks open so you can freely fit the hose and then unlock it in place, it's a pita but it somehow works, took me some time too when doing the heater core

[ForestHillsJackie]

PhaceN52 what do you mean by locking it open?

(My momma taught me how to fold a fitted sheet, but she taught me nothing about hose clamps. &#128516

[The Nightman]

Are you using pliers to open the spring clamp fully before sliding it into position? There doesn't seem to be an issue based on the photo.

A spring clamp is preferred over a worm gear clamp for its constant tension during expansion/contraction

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Yeah I would avoid worm clamps as well after learning more about them and how it's not the optimal choice, although I think the water pump U hose under the car have them factory . Especially if those hoses are difficult to reach in case it leaks or need to be tightened. I'd opt for ear clamps/oteiker clamp if you have to change it.

But yeah if it was on there you should be able to put it back. I would defiintely try to get it on while it's on the hose instead of sliding hose under. The lube method might help it move. Also if you don't have lockable spring clamp pliers can be more of a PITA to deal with.

[PhaceN52]

Originally Posted by ForestHillsJackie

PhaceN52 what do you mean by locking it open?

(My momma taught me how to fold a fitted sheet, but she taught me nothing about hose clamps. ��)

you force it open with pliers like this



it has a tab that holds the clamp in position so you can slide it where it should go once you have put the hose on - the "end part" on the left with the square hole goes on the tab where the ") 703" is in the pic, if it's not exactly like that it should have some sort of "step" where it locks open



then you force it even more and it closes somehow

and happiness ensues

[PhaceN52]

Ha I found a picture of when I did it, forget any kind of drawing skills , hope it's easy to understand

[Efthreeoh]

What internet myth number is the thing about worm-style hose clamps? Lol.

[PhaceN52]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

What internet myth number is the thing about worm-style hose clamps? Lol.

Well in theory that spring clamp should provide some kind of more linear tension over the connection with material thermal expansion, in reality tolerances aren't that tight so you're right lol
but reusing the original one has a more oem feeling, so you're satisfied after you finish a diy
Maybe the heater core pipes are aluminum, clamps are iron, with a worm style one after like 10 years of heat cycles and different expansions it can maybe cut through the rubber pipe

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by PhaceN52

Well in theory that spring clamp should provide some kind of more linear tension over the connection with material thermal expansion, in reality tolerances aren't that tight so you're right lol
but reusing the original one has a more oem feeling, so you're satisfied after you finish a diy
Maybe the heater core pipes are aluminum, clamps are iron, with a worm style one after like 10 years of heat cycles and different expansions it can maybe cut through the rubber pipe

Not you, but if someone on the internet says worm clamps don't provide constant or consistent tension around a hose fitting, they have no understanding of physics. And this crap about expansion due to heat cycling, lol. While the coefficients of expansion may be slightly different between the metal spring clamp and the METAL worm clamp the difference is negligible. Addionally, the smaller diameter of the hose/bib the smaller physical expansion of the connection. The hose seals on the bib because of the fit between the hose ID and the bib OD plus the rib(ing) on the bib. The clamp merely prevents the hose from mechanically sliding off the bib. Spring clamps speed assembly for the car on the assembly line and reduce repetitive motion injuries to assembly line employees. This whole debate between spring and worm clamps is a joke. Both are adequate for affixing a hose to a hose bib. The reason worm clamps may fail is the installer over tightened them because they don't understand mechanical devices.

Jackie can use a worm clamp if she can't get the spring clamp in place; it is a tight working space.

[fastboatster]

this is what's can be useful for spring clamps:
https://www.amazon.com/Clamp-Pliers-...2c77224f5&th=1
or at least
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-...hoCWdcQAvD_BwE
look up hose clamp pliers, these are way better for this than regular pliers. used those many times on my Audi

[mainbearing]

^ the first type with the steel cable really solved a lot of problems for me.

At that location I would think slip-joint pliers would work. If not the steel cable type should. And try what StradaRedlands wrote.

A spring clamp on one hose, and a plastic connector on another. What was those BMW engineers thinking.

[ForestHillsJackie]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

A spring clamp on one hose, and a plastic connector on another. What was those BMW engineers thinking.

I bet you they had an intern that day, and his manager was like “I’ll just give him a hose clamp assignment… what could go wrong?” Either that, or BMW is in cahoots with Big Pliers and they want you to buy ALL the pliers to deal with this. 😆

[gbalthrop]

I've never had the need/ pleasure of accessing that hose or clamp, but your photo appears to show a "Cam-like" slide on lower/left side of clamp, where it will "Lock" in open position if you squeeze two "ears" together with pliers (far enough). If so, pliers with correct jaw to handle angle should make quicker job than screw-clamp.

Like F30, I'm "Old-school" and have a collection of screw-type hose clamps of all sizes, but NO "Squeeze" type clamps.
George

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

A spring clamp on one hose, and a plastic connector on another. What was those BMW engineers thinking.

Good catch. I had to do a double-take and that is indeed how it came from the factory. Very odd



https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=64_1497

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by The Nightman

Good catch. I had to do a double-take and that is indeed how it came from the factory. Very odd



https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=64_1497

I think what mainbearing meant was the top heater core hose uses a spring clamp, while the lower hose uses a BMW plastic connector with the locking clip.

[Cloverdale]

Some lubrication with the use of pliers will get you to the finish line. Be as gentle as possible with the tube you're mounting that hose to or you'll be in for a much more challenging job (leaking heater core).

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I think what mainbearing meant was the top heater core hose uses a spring clamp, while the lower hose uses a BMW plastic connector with the locking clip.

Yes, and I found it strange that the hose with the spring clamp still has a quick connector on the other end. My only guess is the proximity of the two hoses prevents the use of two quick connects during assembly?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by The Nightman

Yes, and I found it strange that the hose with the spring clamp still has a quick connector on the other end. My only guess is the proximity of the two hoses prevents the use of two quick connects during assembly?

I guess. If it were me I'd just use spring clamps at every hose junction. The plastic quick connects seem to add complexity to the part design with not much benefit IMO.

[ForestHillsJackie]

So I took another run at connecting this hose using the flexible hose clamp pliers suggested, but I wasn’t able to get it to squeeze far enough to open the clamp to its limit.

But fortunately, after heating the hose, applying coolant, and using this pair of pliers, I had success. It actually worked best by putting the clamp on the heater core outlet, sliding the hose on, and then maneuvering it under the clamp.