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M2 Technical Topics > N55 Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust / Bolt-ons / Tuning > Diverter Valve DIY - easier than it's been made out to be.

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      06-17-2020, 09:27 PM   #1
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Drives: M2, Many e30's, 330ci, 335d
Join Date: May 2019
Location: SW Michigan

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Diverter Valve DIY - easier than it's been made out to be.

I just finished installing my GFB DV+, and after a rather protracted fight, I believe I've found a relatively easy path to replacing diverter valves.

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional anything, my advice is worth the price of admission. I own a two-post lift, but I don't think this would be terrible on jack stands.

Special tools required:
e12 socket (you should own e-torx tools by now anyway)
5mm ball end allen wrench you're willing to cut up.

1 - Remove the front black plastic and aluminum underbody panels.
2 - Remove the turbo to intercooler charge pipe. I was able to get at the turbo end from the topside by reaching down by the firewall and using two flat screwdrivers to pry up each side of the retaining clip. I had the engine cover off at the time, I don't know if it was necessary or not.
3 - Unbolt the water pump from the bracket, disconnect its power, and move it into the space previously occupied by the charge pipe. You can do this without disconnecting any coolant lines. The water pump is held on by 3 e12 bolts, one on top, two on bottom.
4 - Remove the bracket the water pump was bolted to from the block. Also 3 e12 bolts, one on top, two on bottom.
5 - You can now clearly see the diverter valve, and all 3 bolts holding it on. The only trick left is that the turbo oil supply line is directly in front of the top right bolt. A ball head allen wrench should give you just enough clearance to avoid the oil line. I cut it to about 3 inches and used a 5mm socket to drive the allen wrench.
6 - If you're doing the GFB DV+, their instructions were excellent with one exception. The instructions tell you to remove the o-ring from your stock diverter valve but be careful because you'll be reusing it. You reuse it in the same place. I never removed it. I used the main spring and have not gotten a code yet.

1 - I spent over two hours trying to get at those three bolts before I unbolted the waterpump. Don't be a fool like me. I did have some other parts off the car but I don't feel they're necessary to do the job. I had the intercooler out because I was upgrading it. I took off the three little plastic panels in the passenger wheel well thinking they would give me better access. I pulled the electric cooling fan up as high as the bottom of the radiator to try and come over the water pump with extensions/universals while the water pump was still in place. I would say that was all wasted effort on my part. Be sure and let my know if you find one of those necessary.
2 - Knowing what I know now, I would say this is a 3 hour job at a leisurely pace.
Attached Images
2017 M2 LBB 6MT
CDV Delete/UCP/AutoSolutions Short Shifter/Fabspeed Sport Cat/GFB DV+/VRSF FMIC/VRSF CP/BM3
Shrunken Clown Nose/Debadge/Color Matched Spars & Reflectors/Various CF bits
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      06-17-2020, 09:45 PM   #2
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Drives: 2017 LBB M2
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Baltimore

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Nice work.

I told my mechanic how much of a PITA job this was going to be and his reply was, “wasn’t that bad, I just took the water pump off.”

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