[Commanderwiggin]

If anyone is interested, Malakas has given me permission to sell these intake snorkels for anyone interested. It takes roughly 100hours to print a set in Polycarbonate pending no issues.

They would include the pieces seen in the attached image.

[Malakas]

Commanderwiggin is a hell of a guy and his workmanship has been truly high quality. Poor guy had to sort out a lot of issues to print these bad boys due to the complexity of the shape ... And thus invested a lot of time getting to this stage.

No one is looking to make a big profit on these, it's never been the goal... Rather, I view this as a community project for us motorheads... but, if you're interested, the cost would compensate him for his time and materials ... I can assure you his costs are fractional of typical commerical services.

Hopefully data soon!!

[Detoxified]

Originally Posted by Commanderwiggin

If anyone is interested, Malakas has given me permission to sell these intake snorkels for anyone interested. It takes roughly 80hours to print a set in Polycarbonate pending no issues.

They would include the pieces seen in the attached image.

Interested, please dm me details (price)

[Commanderwiggin]

Originally Posted by Malakas

Commanderwiggin is a hell of a guy and his workmanship has been truly high quality. Poor guy had to sort out a lot of issues to print these bad boys due to the complexity of the shape ... And thus invested a lot of time getting to this stage.

No one is looking to make a big profit on these, it's never been the goal... Rather, I view this as a community project for us motorheads... but, if you're interested, the cost would compensate him for his time and materials ... I can assure you his costs are fractional of typical commerical services.

Hopefully data soon!!

Thanks again for bringing this to the community and I definitely am glad to help. It definitely brought some light to some new challenges in printing with Polycarbonate lol...but now I'm better off after learning them.

As for the data, since the air temp sensor is after the intercooler (which operates at a controlled temp generally) it will be difficult I think to show the result empirically. Given this, I've already taken the car out and datalogged a little bit and it seems to have improved temps by a few degrees during a WOT 3rd gear pull. Keep in mind I also have a Wagner intercooler which is also helping keep things very cool. This being said I can feel a difference just driving around it seems...might be a placeabo but I think not. Either way I'm pretty happy with the mod and I see no negatives unless you consider the required cutting of the plastic a negative.

Anyone interested feel free to PM me...cost is very fair and takes a good amount of my time but is considerably lower by half the cost of a comparable printing company printing in ABS...and Polycarbonate is the strongest material that can typically be printed on your professional grade 3D printer (not considering metal printers here).

[NISFAN]

Fun project. Some great engineering work has gone into these.

My only concern would be catastrophic engine damage if it were to allow enough water in. I'm not talking falling rain here, I'm talking large vehicle hitting standing water going in opposite way. A wall of water deluge.
Hydrolock happens surprisingly easily and is terminal.
For that reason, I would favour the 90 degree to direction OEM style inlets. And even those aren't infallible.

[Commanderwiggin]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

Fun project. Some great engineering work has gone into these.

My only concern would be catastrophic engine damage if it were to allow enough water in. I'm not talking falling rain here, I'm talking large vehicle hitting standing water going in opposite way. A wall of water deluge.
Hydrolock happens surprisingly easily and is terminal.
For that reason, I would favour the 90 degree to direction OEM style inlets. And even those aren't infallible.

In either case you can leave the side holes open on the OE portion of the duct connected to the airbox and there is also a drain on each air box as well. At this point I'm more concerned about the other drivers on the road rather than a rogue water deluge.

[MR RIZK]

I think I will be ok. I generally don't drive through waterfalls.

[Malakas]

Originally Posted by NISFAN

Fun project. Some great engineering work has gone into these.

My only concern would be catastrophic engine damage if it were to allow enough water in. I'm not talking falling rain here, I'm talking large vehicle hitting standing water going in opposite way. A wall of water deluge.
Hydrolock happens surprisingly easily and is terminal.
For that reason, I would favour the 90 degree to direction OEM style inlets. And even those aren't infallible.

I think with that large of a volume of water spashing in, both solutions would be pretty bad, but agreed a front facing one would be marginally worse.

Originally Posted by Commanderwiggin

In either case you can leave the side holes open on the OE portion of the duct connected to the airbox and there is also a drain on each air box as well. At this point I'm more concerned about the other drivers on the road rather than a rogue water deluge.

As Commanderwiggin said, you could keep the sides open on the OEM piece (inside the engine bay) so that it would act like a purge valve if such a water event happened. We did design it to have drain holes that follow the natural contour of the inlet shape, so water that smacks the back of the inlet should drain right to the holes ... but you know, its all theory.

I had a GTR with filters essentially right behind the front grill. Again, deluge aside, I never had an issue driving it in Houston rain, so I wasnt as worried about rain intake especially since in our cars its a rather circuitous route to the filter.

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

I think I will be ok. I generally don't drive through waterfalls.

LOL!

[thedoluk]

My snorkels arrived this morning. Great quality and very OEM looking.
Big thanks to Cammanderwiggin got them to me in 48hrs!
Hopefully get them installed on the 30th along with Eventuri intakes and Funkmototrsport turbo blamkets. Hopefully get a drop in IATs.

[Malakas]

Originally Posted by thedoluk

My snorkels arrived this morning. Great quality and very OEM looking.
Big thanks to Cammanderwiggin got them to me in 48hrs!
Hopefully get them installed on the 30th along with Eventuri intakes and Funkmototrsport turbo blamkets. Hopefully get a drop in IATs.

Totally sweet. Enjoy!

[Tupps11]

Amazing project!

Very impressive. Any chance you guys can include a stencil for the cutout that needs to be made with the dremel tool?

That the only thing that would make me hesitate to do a mod like this. Im too OCD to cut it and see gaps around the snorkel once its fitted.

[Detoxified]

Originally Posted by Commanderwiggin

If anyone is interested, Malakas has given me permission to sell these intake snorkels for anyone interested. It takes roughly 100hours to print a set in Polycarbonate pending no issues.

They would include the pieces seen in the attached image.

Any chance you have had time to compile the results? I am curious if any improvement is seen in the results. In theory I would expect good results.

Thanks!

[Malakas]

Originally Posted by Tupps11

Amazing project!

Very impressive. Any chance you guys can include a stencil for the cutout that needs to be made with the dremel tool?

That the only thing that would make me hesitate to do a mod like this. Im too OCD to cut it and see gaps around the snorkel once its fitted.

So I made a stencil... but unfortunately, if you dont want to drop the bumper, as in - you want to install the intake through the front grill, to position the intake, the hole has to be a bit larger than the cutout. Its kind of hard to explain. We do have a sealing plate, and am working on a couple of other solutions.

The other thing to consider is that we talk about the front grill area being "sealed" but its not really 100% air tight. There are a ton of air gaps. Im sure there is still an increase in pressure on the back of the airbox (where the radiators are) when the car is moving, but its far from sealed. So I dont think there has to be an "absolute" seal around the intakes.

But, I totally hear you on the cutting the airbox piece. Its kind of nerve-racking but also kind of fun!

Originally Posted by Detoxified

Any chance you have had time to compile the results? I am curious if any improvement is seen in the results. In theory I would expect good results.

Thanks!

Commanderwiggin can comment on this piece. It is definitely making a difference but its a hard product to evaluate because the IAT sensor is after the intercooler... as CommanderWigging said. BUT - I am going to dyno and also look at MAF readings (total flow) compared to stock. Commanderwiggin has seen some interesting readings, but will let him comment.

Also, regarding rain. I drove (not intentionally) in very heavy Texas rain yesterday. No issues to speak of.

[Commanderwiggin]

Originally Posted by Detoxified

Any chance you have had time to compile the results? I am curious if any improvement is seen in the results. In theory I would expect good results.

Thanks!

The results so far I can objectively say:
-4'F drop in AIT on average (Based on Ambient, heat soaked conditions)
-Highest Mass Airflow numbers I've recorded on a max effort level tune (I have logged 1900kg/hr peak during a 1-4th gear pull and average was around 1700kg/hr.). Not necessarily any conclusive comparison data on this since I had never pushed it this hard before...but nonetheless it is a fact.

Subjectively I can say it feels more peppy and the already quick spooling, tire shredding nature may be more amplified.

All of this being said it would unfortunately take a lot of time to perform testing via the scientific method, of which I don't have at this time. I've been testing new software for my tuner and this most certainly skews any back to back results as of now but that is my priority.

I also don't think a dyno will show conclusive results either since the factory computer targets torque very specifically...+/- 5% deviation would be expected. It's the same reason most in engine bay - air filter kits don't yield any gains generally and why the front mounted cold air intakes don't net anything on the dyno typically either. However I repeatedly hear that a direct change to a front cold air mounted intake does net faster 1/4mile/60-130/etc... times. So this setup getting the air from the front matches up with that subjective generalized statement.

Would I do it again? Yes

[HFW003]

If you’re up for sending a set down to Oz I’d happily cover any costs.

Thanks

H

[Megator]

Originally Posted by Commanderwiggin

If anyone is interested, Malakas has given me permission to sell these intake snorkels for anyone interested. It takes roughly 100hours to print a set in Polycarbonate pending no issues.

They would include the pieces seen in the attached image.

Not sure polycarbonate is needed for this over ABS. My ABS brake scoops take a beating and shrug it off. Also about 99% certain Velosatech (one of the 1s 3d printed snorkel suppliers I ever saw) do everything in ABS smoothed with acetone and these have lasted years now on various MK3 Focus RS/ST cars.

Im looking at using ASA (a modified ABS) that is more UV and weather resistant in future for my brake scoops.

ABS would also let you smooth everything out with acetone vapors if you want that slick look.

How does it take 100 hours to print?? is your layer height .1mm or something?

To the guys driving in monsoons, Eventuri (and others) have been selling these kind of ram air scoops since Christ walked this earth, the chances of hydrolocking your engine will only marginally increase.

[Commanderwiggin]

Originally Posted by Megator

Not sure polycarbonate is needed for this over ABS. My ABS brake scoops take a beating and shrug it off. Also about 99% certain Velosatech (one of the 1s 3d printed snorkel suppliers I ever saw) do everything in ABS smoothed with acetone and these have lasted years now on various MK3 Focus RS/ST cars.

Im looking at using ASA (a modified ABS) that is more UV and weather resistant in future for my brake scoops.

ABS would also let you smooth everything out with acetone vapors if you want that slick look.

How does it take 100 hours to print?? is your layer height .1mm or something?

To the guys driving in monsoons, Eventuri (and others) have been selling these kind of ram air scoops since Christ walked this earth, the chances of hydrolocking your engine will only marginally increase.

I agree that PC is probably overkill but it's a very strong material that is typically difficult to print and I've got it down pat now. I have upgraded ruby nozzles and a powerhouse of a printer and it's been awesome once I got it dialed in for PC. I'll likely try some Carbon Fiber Infused Nylon stuff soon as well.

ASA is a great alternative to ABS and extremely easy to print for sure but typically those aren't recommended for production end use and more for general use, but as you mentioned have lasted the test of time in similar applications so that's a great alternative. I totally know about the acetone vapor smoothing and that is an option for sure if it's needed and does look nice. These intakes currently require no post processing and look great straight off the print imo...initial designs where the support material was, needed some sanding to smooth slightly but no longer needed. The sanding wasn't on the visual area of the intake anyways when mounted but now they print quicker with barely any support needed so it's a win win.

Currently I have reduced print time down to 70hours for all the 8 pieces. I had to re-orient the print in my slicer which reduced any support that was needed to an extreme minimum. As for each piece, I do print high infill % to ensure strength...these pieces vary 50-100%. The large intakes are about 30hours each and the other 6 pieces add up to about 10hours. Layer height of .2 and the intakes are thicker than they need to be so that adds a bunch of time. I also run some other tweaks that add time to my print settings but increase quality/strength as well.

I have a fresh intake set ready to go if anyone is interested.

[Megator]

Originally Posted by Commanderwiggin

I agree that PC is probably overkill but it's a very strong material that is typically difficult to print and I've got it down pat now. I have upgraded ruby nozzles and a powerhouse of a printer and it's been awesome once I got it dialed in for PC. I'll likely try some Carbon Fiber Infused Nylon stuff soon as well.

ASA is a great alternative to ABS and extremely easy to print for sure but typically those aren't recommended for production end use and more for general use, but as you mentioned have lasted the test of time in similar applications so that's a great alternative. I totally know about the acetone vapor smoothing and that is an option for sure if it's needed and does look nice. These intakes currently require no post processing and look great straight off the print imo...initial designs where the support material was, needed some sanding to smooth slightly but no longer needed. The sanding wasn't on the visual area of the intake anyways when mounted but now they print quicker with barely any support needed so it's a win win.

Currently I have reduced print time down to 70hours for all the 8 pieces. I had to re-orient the print in my slicer which reduced any support that was needed to an extreme minimum. As for each piece, I do print high infill % to ensure strength...these pieces vary 50-100%. The large intakes are about 30hours each and the other 6 pieces add up to about 10hours. Layer height of .2 and the intakes are thicker than they need to be so that adds a bunch of time. I also run some other tweaks that add time to my print settings but increase quality/strength as well.

I have a fresh intake set ready to go if anyone is interested.

Thanks for the reply. Post processing is indeed an issue, my scoops require quite a bit of it which can be annoying.

I suggest you lower the infil, infil does not do much to strengthen the parts (see section modulus and this guys channel https://www.youtube.com/c/CNCKitchen/videos).

For the ducts/intakes you should be able to do them with 0 infil and only perimeters and that should be faster and just as strong You say they are too thick but I would optimise that as itll save time and material.

[BMW DIY Guy]

So... read the entire original thread, and then every page of this and holy CRAP guys, well done!

Malakas and Commanderwiggin are just amazing guys, truly incredible! This level of work and dedication is truly impressive!

Wiggin, I will shoot you a PM as I am interested especially since it can be done (now) without headlights or even bumper removal! My thought is to do a full DIY video workup on this!

Just damn guys.. amazing!

[HOT M]

Good job guys,
put me in for a set.
Thanks.

[Malakas]

Originally Posted by BMW DIY Guy

So... read the entire original thread, and then every page of this and holy CRAP guys, well done!

Malakas and Commanderwiggin are just amazing guys, truly incredible! This level of work and dedication is truly impressive!

Wiggin, I will shoot you a PM as I am interested especially since it can be done (now) without headlights or even bumper removal! My thought is to do a full DIY video workup on this!

Just damn guys.. amazing!

It was actually a fun project! The cutting of the stock airbox is the hardest part. I would say I'm not super mechanically inclined (working on it), but I managed just fine.

DM commanderwiggin, he will hook you up

[Malakas]

Originally Posted by HOT M

Good job guys,
put me in for a set.
Thanks.