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      10-26-2021, 05:39 AM   #683
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The vid was a little washed out through the windshield, so hard to see much.

One quick observation.....
Your seating position; your arms look to be too straight.
When you turn and your hand is @ 12 your elbow is locked straight.
You can try moving the seat a little closer, less seat back tilt or extend the steering wheel.

There should be a definite bend in the arms.
This will really smooth out your steering inputs.
That's actually really good advice. In the afternoon session (that I didnt record because my gopro was dead) I did move my seat forward and I found that my steering was better and I wasnt death gripping trying to hold my self up. Its the first time that I didnt keep checking the nose of my car and actually looking around the curve to the next pickup point.

I am also unhappy of the video washout as well. I think for the next event I'll move the go pro from my rollbar to the front windshield. Also, it looks less washed out if you full screen it on a laptop screen vs a phone.
Tip for your gopro. If you press and hold the screen, somewhere outside of the front windshield. It will lock the white balance to that area for as long as it's turned on. This helps keep the lighting from washing out everything when you drive into the sun.

It's a bit tricky to do if you can't get in your back seat, but it's doable.

There may be a way to set it with the mobile app as well.
Thanks this is helpful. I actually went with a smartycam setup on my rollbar. I'll be moving the GoPro to front window or maybe even the tow strap area.
Right on. Wish they had a 1080p 60fps smartycam. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
Agreed, everyone would! Or better yet just an overlay device that works with any camera. The GoPro is generally a big piece of shit too. I give it 50% dependability.
Yeah that was my issue is the last track day with the GoPro. I had to remember to start it and my video settings were too high that it was making 8m 49 sec clips that I had to stitch together. Plus the washout issue that I haven't experienced with the smartycam on the Porsche I drove a few times to the track.
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      10-26-2021, 08:14 AM   #684
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The vid was a little washed out through the windshield, so hard to see much.

One quick observation.....
Your seating position; your arms look to be too straight.
When you turn and your hand is @ 12 your elbow is locked straight.
You can try moving the seat a little closer, less seat back tilt or extend the steering wheel.

There should be a definite bend in the arms.
This will really smooth out your steering inputs.
That's actually really good advice. In the afternoon session (that I didnt record because my gopro was dead) I did move my seat forward and I found that my steering was better and I wasnt death gripping trying to hold my self up. Its the first time that I didnt keep checking the nose of my car and actually looking around the curve to the next pickup point.

I am also unhappy of the video washout as well. I think for the next event I'll move the go pro from my rollbar to the front windshield. Also, it looks less washed out if you full screen it on a laptop screen vs a phone.
Tip for your gopro. If you press and hold the screen, somewhere outside of the front windshield. It will lock the white balance to that area for as long as it's turned on. This helps keep the lighting from washing out everything when you drive into the sun.

It's a bit tricky to do if you can't get in your back seat, but it's doable.

There may be a way to set it with the mobile app as well.
Thanks this is helpful. I actually went with a smartycam setup on my rollbar. I'll be moving the GoPro to front window or maybe even the tow strap area.
Right on. Wish they had a 1080p 60fps smartycam. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
Agreed, everyone would! Or better yet just an overlay device that works with any camera. The GoPro is generally a big piece of shit too. I give it 50% dependability.
Yeah that was my issue is the last track day with the GoPro. I had to remember to start it and my video settings were too high that it was making 8m 49 sec clips that I had to stitch together. Plus the washout issue that I haven't experienced with the smartycam on the Porsche I drove a few times to the track.
If you have phone app you just set ISO to max negative and it clears up the washout. My beef is GP loves to turn off unexpectedly, or overheat, or not turn on at all. Plus I strongly dislike race render.
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      10-26-2021, 08:19 AM   #685
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The vid was a little washed out through the windshield, so hard to see much.

One quick observation.....
Your seating position; your arms look to be too straight.
When you turn and your hand is @ 12 your elbow is locked straight.
You can try moving the seat a little closer, less seat back tilt or extend the steering wheel.

There should be a definite bend in the arms.
This will really smooth out your steering inputs.
That's actually really good advice. In the afternoon session (that I didnt record because my gopro was dead) I did move my seat forward and I found that my steering was better and I wasnt death gripping trying to hold my self up. Its the first time that I didnt keep checking the nose of my car and actually looking around the curve to the next pickup point.

I am also unhappy of the video washout as well. I think for the next event I'll move the go pro from my rollbar to the front windshield. Also, it looks less washed out if you full screen it on a laptop screen vs a phone.
Tip for your gopro. If you press and hold the screen, somewhere outside of the front windshield. It will lock the white balance to that area for as long as it's turned on. This helps keep the lighting from washing out everything when you drive into the sun.

It's a bit tricky to do if you can't get in your back seat, but it's doable.

There may be a way to set it with the mobile app as well.
Thanks this is helpful. I actually went with a smartycam setup on my rollbar. I'll be moving the GoPro to front window or maybe even the tow strap area.
Right on. Wish they had a 1080p 60fps smartycam. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
Agreed, everyone would! Or better yet just an overlay device that works with any camera. The GoPro is generally a big piece of shit too. I give it 50% dependability.
Yeah that was my issue is the last track day with the GoPro. I had to remember to start it and my video settings were too high that it was making 8m 49 sec clips that I had to stitch together. Plus the washout issue that I haven't experienced with the smartycam on the Porsche I drove a few times to the track.
If you have phone app you just set ISO to max negative and it clears up the washout. My beef is GP loves to turn off unexpectedly, or overheat, or not turn on at all. Plus I strongly dislike race render.
Ok I'm glad it wasn't me. It definitely turned off when it should have been recording.
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      10-29-2021, 03:15 PM   #686
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Ready for the sandlapper event tomorrow. Wish I could stay for the Sunday run group but have things I need to get back for.
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      10-31-2021, 01:58 PM   #687
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I ordered a canbus cable for the aim setup so I can enable all the data points I want to capture. This is one run. Also, I moved my GoPro to the front windshield and took a lot better video this time around.

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      11-02-2021, 07:38 PM   #688
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For those running 18inch squared I'm looking to run 18x10 et33's because I'm having trouble finding 19s in stock before the end of the year. I'm about to slap on an AP racing bbk and was looking at going to a 275/35/18


I'm currently on ohlins r&t, vorschlag camber plate, -2 camber up front and 5mm spacers but I'm also running staggered 19 ec7s.

Any advice or experience with this set up? Apex says I'll need a minimum -3 camber in the front and -2.4 in the rear. Plus a 12MM spacer in the front. This seems excessive for 18x10
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      11-02-2021, 11:06 PM   #689
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The rear is easy and you can probably run less camber than that. mcvaughan has that wheel/tire setup. -2.4 in the rear should be fine.

The front is going to be your problem—especially if running a tire that's really square shouldered. The reason being is the Öhlins is not good for wheel/tire clearance and a lot of it is going to depend on your ride height in getting the spring perch to clear the tire. Alternatively you can get a shorter front spring, but that's a different set of problems.

18x10 +21 (effective) isn't wild, and -3° of camber up front isn't either. If you're quick on a sticky tire, the car is going to show you it needs more camber anyway. Good luck.
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      11-02-2021, 11:36 PM   #690
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Originally Posted by Anonymoose View Post
For those running 18inch squared I'm looking to run 18x10 et33's because I'm having trouble finding 19s in stock before the end of the year. I'm about to slap on an AP racing bbk and was looking at going to a 275/35/18


I'm currently on ohlins r&t, vorschlag camber plate, -2 camber up front and 5mm spacers but I'm also running staggered 19 ec7s.

Any advice or experience with this set up? Apex says I'll need a minimum -3 camber in the front and -2.4 in the rear. Plus a 12MM spacer in the front. This seems excessive for 18x10
You'll need 10 to 12mm spacers most likely to clear suspension.

I run ET35 apex 18x10s with 12mm spacers and barely clear suspension with 275s. (KW v3 suspension)

Also, ECS makes a spacer fitment kit you can rent for cheap. Will let you figure out what size spacers you ultimately need to buy without trial and error.
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      11-03-2021, 06:04 AM   #691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonymoose View Post
For those running 18inch squared I'm looking to run 18x10 et33's because I'm having trouble finding 19s in stock before the end of the year. I'm about to slap on an AP racing bbk and was looking at going to a 275/35/18


I'm currently on ohlins r&t, vorschlag camber plate, -2 camber up front and 5mm spacers but I'm also running staggered 19 ec7s.

Any advice or experience with this set up? Apex says I'll need a minimum -3 camber in the front and -2.4 in the rear. Plus a 12MM spacer in the front. This seems excessive for 18x10
You'll need 10 to 12mm spacers most likely to clear suspension.

I run ET35 apex 18x10s with 12mm spacers and barely clear suspension with 275s. (KW v3 suspension)

Also, ECS makes a spacer fitment kit you can rent for cheap. Will let you figure out what size spacers you ultimately need to buy without trial and error.
Any issues on track with your setup? What camber are you running?
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      11-03-2021, 08:47 AM   #692
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For those running 18inch squared I'm looking to run 18x10 et33's because I'm having trouble finding 19s in stock before the end of the year. I'm about to slap on an AP racing bbk and was looking at going to a 275/35/18


I'm currently on ohlins r&t, vorschlag camber plate, -2 camber up front and 5mm spacers but I'm also running staggered 19 ec7s.

Any advice or experience with this set up? Apex says I'll need a minimum -3 camber in the front and -2.4 in the rear. Plus a 12MM spacer in the front. This seems excessive for 18x10
You'll need 10 to 12mm spacers most likely to clear suspension.

I run ET35 apex 18x10s with 12mm spacers and barely clear suspension with 275s. (KW v3 suspension)

Also, ECS makes a spacer fitment kit you can rent for cheap. Will let you figure out what size spacers you ultimately need to buy without trial and error.
Any issues on track with your setup? What camber are you running?
No issues. Running around -2.5 in the front.
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      11-03-2021, 08:58 AM   #693
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No issues. Running around -2.5 in the front.
fantastic - I'm at -2.0 in the front today. Do you drive yours to the track on that camber?
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      11-03-2021, 09:18 AM   #694
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Anonymoose I forgot to mention that if you do go with spacers these are really good - Turner Spacers. 12.5 ought to be about right. 80mm studs should cover you here as well.

I would not go with their 10mm though (and a lot of people don't like 10mm at all) - we have seen some of their sets that have a bit of a lip around the centering ring that doesn't allow the wheel to sit completely flush against the spacer. This is the only size that we have seen it on - all the 12.5's & 15's have been perfect.

The Ohlins do have that big spring perch you have to deal with - but we had the RT kit on my OG M2 and were able to fit 275/35/18 Hoosier R7's (very wide fitting tires). Were able to get the perch high enough to clear using the supplied Ohlins spring but were not able to lower the ride height quite as much as we wanted. All in all though it was still a net gain - that was a very quick setup. Like M1500Z said you can look into swapping springs too if you want to be able to lower the car a bit more - but really it wasn't that bad and the car still performed very well. We put that same set of wheels/tires on CrashFL's car when we were at our local track a couple of weeks ago - he is running the Ohlins as well and fitment wasn't an issue. He is running the supplied Ohlins springs too.

I do like the Ohlins RT kit - think it does well for its intended purpose as a street/track hybrid. But the large spring perch is definitely a negative and can lead to a bit of compromise running their springs. Big part of what we are doing with the Nitron kits is to get the best performance while eliminating all of these types of compromises from the start.

Camber - keep in mind that unless you are changing it before & after every track day you're going to likely be less than optimum on either the street or the track. Either way you are going to be hurting tires more than typical in one of those places. If you run less you are going to save street tire life but could go through track tires quickly. More and would be burning streets up quicker but the track tire usage would be less not killing the outsides as much. For me I would rather get a bit less life out of the street tires and run the appropriate track camber. My street usage isn't that high and I would end up spending more on track tires in the long run. Plus I enjoy that setup more on the track. If I put a bunch of street miles on the car it might be different though - just need to find what works for you. I do not like middle of the ground setting though - feel like that really isn't worth it. Once you clear the perches the camber adjustment comes in to clear the fenders - if necessary.

On the tires - if you do move to the 18x10 square setup here is a progression that I really liked in 275/35/18 (or similar):

Dunlop Direzza ZIII
Nitto NT01
Goodyear Supercar 3R
Hoosier R7/A7
Slicks

The Dunlops were an excellent learning tire - great for learning car control and recovery techniques. 200TW but not as fast as the cheater 200's and with better wear and friendlier recovery characteristics. Great tire to get comfortable running DSC off. Spend as much time as needed at this level - easiest and best place to learn the fundamentals. Once comfortable with no nannies like to start the progression up into faster tires moving up once fully comfortable with each step. Cheater 200s can fit into the mix for faster tires that you can drive back & forth to the track on and also typically friendlier in the wet.
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      11-03-2021, 10:49 AM   #695
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Anonymoose I forgot to mention that if you do go with spacers these are really good - Turner Spacers. 12.5 ought to be about right. 80mm studs should cover you here as well.

I would not go with their 10mm though (and a lot of people don't like 10mm at all) - we have seen some of their sets that have a bit of a lip around the centering ring that doesn't allow the wheel to sit completely flush against the spacer. This is the only size that we have seen it on - all the 12.5's & 15's have been perfect.

The Ohlins do have that big spring perch you have to deal with - but we had the RT kit on my OG M2 and were able to fit 275/35/18 Hoosier R7's (very wide fitting tires). Were able to get the perch high enough to clear using the supplied Ohlins spring but were not able to lower the ride height quite as much as we wanted. All in all though it was still a net gain - that was a very quick setup. Like M1500Z said you can look into swapping springs too if you want to be able to lower the car a bit more - but really it wasn't that bad and the car still performed very well. We put that same set of wheels/tires on CrashFL's car when we were at our local track a couple of weeks ago - he is running the Ohlins as well and fitment wasn't an issue. He is running the supplied Ohlins springs too.

I do like the Ohlins RT kit - think it does well for its intended purpose as a street/track hybrid. But the large spring perch is definitely a negative and can lead to a bit of compromise running their springs. Big part of what we are doing with the Nitron kits is to get the best performance while eliminating all of these types of compromises from the start.

Camber - keep in mind that unless you are changing it before & after every track day you're going to likely be less than optimum on either the street or the track. Either way you are going to be hurting tires more than typical in one of those places. If you run less you are going to save street tire life but could go through track tires quickly. More and would be burning streets up quicker but the track tire usage would be less not killing the outsides as much. For me I would rather get a bit less life out of the street tires and run the appropriate track camber. My street usage isn't that high and I would end up spending more on track tires in the long run. Plus I enjoy that setup more on the track. If I put a bunch of street miles on the car it might be different though - just need to find what works for you. I do not like middle of the ground setting though - feel like that really isn't worth it. Once you clear the perches the camber adjustment comes in to clear the fenders - if necessary.

On the tires - if you do move to the 18x10 square setup here is a progression that I really liked in 275/35/18 (or similar):

Dunlop Direzza ZIII
Nitto NT01
Goodyear Supercar 3R
Hoosier R7/A7
Slicks

The Dunlops were an excellent learning tire - great for learning car control and recovery techniques. 200TW but not as fast as the cheater 200's and with better wear and friendlier recovery characteristics. Great tire to get comfortable running DSC off. Spend as much time as needed at this level - easiest and best place to learn the fundamentals. Once comfortable with no nannies like to start the progression up into faster tires moving up once fully comfortable with each step. Cheater 200s can fit into the mix for faster tires that you can drive back & forth to the track on and also typically friendlier in the wet.
This is super helpful, thank you.

I have 75MM studs on the car right now. The Specs say that I can do up to a 12mm spacer however that leaves it close and I figure this is not something I want to cheap out on so I ordered the 82MM studs.

Last edited by Anonymoose; 11-03-2021 at 01:59 PM..
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      11-03-2021, 11:46 AM   #696
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No issues. Running around -2.5 in the front.
fantastic - I'm at -2.0 in the front today. Do you drive yours to the track on that camber?
Yup. I daily with the same camber settings. Haven't really noticed any uneven wear.
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      11-18-2021, 08:59 AM   #697
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Update since the last post -

With the help of OG Shark I now have a full set of AP Racing front and rears, new Bimmerworld 18s, 12mm spacers, ferodo ds1.11 front and rear and DS2500 for street pads. I also ended up going with a goodyear supercar 3 275/35/18 since the direzzas were a tirerack only option.
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      11-18-2021, 11:49 AM   #698
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Update since the last post -

With the help of OG Shark I now have a full set of AP Racing front and rears, new Bimmerworld 18s, 12mm spacers, ferodo ds1.11 front and rear and DS2500 for street pads. I also ended up going with a goodyear supercar 3 275/35/18 since the direzzas were a tirerack only option.
Pics or didn't happen!!! Oh wait, I know it happened - now we just need the pics!!!
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      11-18-2021, 12:05 PM   #699
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Pics or didn't happen!!! Oh wait, I know it happened - now we just need the pics!!!
Install day is Monday and Tuesday so pics should be posted Tuesday night!
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      11-23-2021, 07:29 PM   #700
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Few teaser pics but here's the cae shifter and front AP kit installed.

Track day is the 13th and I'll be running 18s woo woo

Changed out the castrol srf even though it only had 3 track days in it. Figured I was replacing the brake system so why not. I'm looking forward to the upgraded tires as I was bumping 1G pretty consistent with the Michelin pilot sport 4s.
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      11-24-2021, 09:00 AM   #701
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Pics incoming.

I was a little worried because I asked that my alignment be changed. Was looking for -2.5-2.6 in the front and didn't mentioned the rear.

Tech put -2.4 in the front and matched -2.4 in the rear. I asked that it be changed to -2 in the rear. I'm not sure why he'd match front and rear
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      11-25-2021, 09:59 AM   #702
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I'm running -2.8° up front (zero toe) and -2.0° out back (factory toe). This works just fine for long jaunts on the highway without excessive or abnormal wear. I just went down to Buttonwillow (1008 miles one way) and back, and earlier did Thunderhill (675 miles one way), and nothing to report in terms of abnormal tire wear. Had a similar front camber and toe setup on my TT RS track car with a similar experience.
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      11-26-2021, 09:38 AM   #703
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Getting rid of some extra camera stuff - three GoPro 7's with some accessories and a case. Good track setup so though I would share it here as well

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=657

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      11-29-2021, 07:32 AM   #704
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Had fun at Thunder Hill East today until the last session. I put my pss10 to the stiffest for the last session and it didn't do well for me. Any thoughts? I find it 5 click did good.
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