[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Damn you guys! Ok so where can i find the alacantera with orange stitching OG Shark

Ha yeah this is not the place to be if you are trying to avoid enablers

Really like the alcantara knobs - have one with blue stitching on my OG M2 to go with along with an alcantara DTM steering wheel. They did red & blue at the time I got mine - do not think they are really doing them right now though. Stay tuned...

[Anonymoose]

Well dang - just got some bad news for the sandlapper event coming up on the 30th

"We have a wait list for our novice/ novice intermediate students, this is not because we have filled the spots, but because we are short on Instructors. If you show up on MSR as waitlisted, we will move you once we have instructors, those of you that registered first will be assigned first."

[Anonymoose]

Any of y'all running brembos and 18's? Monika has a really good deal on a set and if I could figure out if they'd fit I'd consider buying em. Also, don't know if anything changed from 18 to 21 that wouldn't allow me to run these.

Brembo, Eventuri, Fabspeed, VRSF, CSF .. Lots more .. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1865691

[Anonymoose]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Any of y'all running brembos and 18's? Monika has a really good deal on a set and if I could figure out if they'd fit I'd consider buying em. Also, don't know if anything changed from 18 to 21 that wouldn't allow me to run these.

Brembo, Eventuri, Fabspeed, VRSF, CSF .. Lots more .. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1865691

Looks like I know it will fit some of the apex 18s https://www.apexraceparts.com/media/...ance-Table.pdf

Just need to figure out if its the same parts. It appears to be a direct fit

[blitzyo]

How much rear toe are you guys running on proper tires <140tw stiff sidewall, stock shocks?
I've got caster and camber down now.
0 toe front and 0.25 (degrees) total toe in rear.

[Anonymoose]

Seats are in woo woo

[DrKevM5]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Seats are in woo woo

Nice!

[OG Shark]

I generally like the 3.12s although I may try the 1.11s next. I love how the 3.12s almost never feel hot at my grip levels and are consistent no matter what—basically they're always better than my 220TW street tires. But I do find myself over-braking and could use a tad more finesse to properly use them.

Regarding ABS, I need to check my data, but I have read differing opinions on ABS with some saying use it to it's maximum and others saying brake right to the cusp of where ABS comes one. Ross Bentley, for example says (paraphrasing) in modern BMW/Porsche ABS systems (i.e. advanced), wait for the last moment and hit the brakes as hard/fast as you can, letting the system do the work for you. He does say that you'll likely need to adapt your driving to this style and still need to make sure you're not in ABS when beginning turn in.

So I don't know—I generally use ABS in heavy braking zones and don't feel it negatively effects me. I'm concentrating more on things like managing the weight transfer, trailing in without too much brake, and a smooth release. But there's always that other argument that ideal braking is with a hint of under-rotation and maybe our systems don't allow that.

M1500Z if you haven't tried the 1.11s yet - might be worth at least one set. You will not lose any performance or consistency - what you should notice is less initial bite than the 3.12s (will still have quite a bit of bite though). If you prefer the 3.12s then no harm, no foul - you won't lose any performance on the track running through a set and they cost the same.

Definitely a good argument on whether or not to get into ABS. I prefer to stay out of ABS - feel like I am overall more consistent with the pedal when I'm aiming to stay below the ABS threshold. The 3.12s on anything not high grip has such a fine line that I get into ABS a little more than I prefer. But hard to argue against the other way though too - probably a lot of merit on what they are saying with today's systems. I will say in the wet though I really do not like getting into abs at all.

One beni of the 1.11 is that they are a bit friendlier on the rotors. Both good pads though, really can't go wrong with either.

[M1500Z]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

I generally like the 3.12s although I may try the 1.11s next. I love how the 3.12s almost never feel hot at my grip levels and are consistent no matter what—basically they're always better than my 220TW street tires. But I do find myself over-braking and could use a tad more finesse to properly use them.

Regarding ABS, I need to check my data, but I have read differing opinions on ABS with some saying use it to it's maximum and others saying brake right to the cusp of where ABS comes one. Ross Bentley, for example says (paraphrasing) in modern BMW/Porsche ABS systems (i.e. advanced), wait for the last moment and hit the brakes as hard/fast as you can, letting the system do the work for you. He does say that you'll likely need to adapt your driving to this style and still need to make sure you're not in ABS when beginning turn in.

So I don't know—I generally use ABS in heavy braking zones and don't feel it negatively effects me. I'm concentrating more on things like managing the weight transfer, trailing in without too much brake, and a smooth release. But there's always that other argument that ideal braking is with a hint of under-rotation and maybe our systems don't allow that.

M1500Z if you haven't tried the 1.11s yet - might be worth at least one set. You will not lose any performance or consistency - what you should notice is less initial bite than the 3.12s (will still have quite a bit of bite though). If you prefer the 3.12s then no harm, no foul - you won't lose any performance on the track running through a set and they cost the same.

Definitely a good argument on whether or not to get into ABS. I prefer to stay out of ABS - feel like I am overall more consistent with the pedal when I'm aiming to stay below the ABS threshold. The 3.12s on anything not high grip has such a fine line that I get into ABS a little more than I prefer. But hard to argue against the other way though too - probably a lot of merit on what they are saying with today's systems. I will say in the wet though I really do not like getting into abs at all.

One beni of the 1.11 is that they are a bit friendlier on the rotors. Both good pads though, really can't go wrong with either.

I would like to try the 1.11s. I need to measure, but it looks like I've still got a good amount of life left in the 3.12s. My thought right now is I'd like something that's in between the Pagid RSL29s I previously ran and the 3.12s in terms of friction—that extreme initial bite can be a little tough to manage. if the 1.11s have heat management like the 3.12s then that's a winner. It's either that or I step up to stickier rubber to make more use of the 3.12s.

All of this reminds that I should set up a math channel in RaceStudio to try and get an accurate representation of brake pedal pressure.

[blitzyo]

I changed back to my street setup, which are some crappy apracing apf404 pads front and ds2500 rear on my apracing kit and I can actually modulate the pedal and trail brake now.

This might have shifted some bias to the rear as well, haven't calculated it.
Now I can brake immediately off the throttle without putting 1.5Gs instantly on the front of my car. I didn't like how the ds3.12 feel at all.
Running AR1s.

Going to switch to Pagid or PFC for track pads next.

[AWC-F87]

Driving laguna Seca tomorrow!! Can't wait

[Anonymoose]

Originally Posted by AWC-F87

Driving laguna Seca tomorrow!! Can't wait

Pics and videos if you get to take any.

[Anonymoose]

Anyone have a problem with brake modulation with the 2NH brakes and ferodo ds1.11 pads? When my instructor asks me to brush the brakes I'm getting some pretty significant bite. Maybe it's something I need to get used to but I didn't have this problem in my c7 vette.

[Daytona_550]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Anyone have a problem with brake modulation with the 2NH brakes and ferodo ds1.11 pads? When my instructor asks me to brush the brakes I'm getting some pretty significant bite. Maybe it's something I need to get used to but I didn't have this problem in my c7 vette.

I have the same setup and I like the initial bite of the DS1.11 pads. It may just be some time needed to get used to them.

One thing you may find necessary is to tap the brakes to set the pads (to take care of "pad knock-back") before going into a braking zone. This will give you a more consistent pedal height when applying the brakes. Have fun out there!

[Anonymoose]

Just got my laptimer installed today. I had a pretty clean run except when I got to the b pillar. I didn't see anyway to not run it across the dash or without drilling a hole. I did consider what it would take to run the cord through the vent but didn't like that idea due to heat.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by M1500Z

I would like to try the 1.11s. I need to measure, but it looks like I've still got a good amount of life left in the 3.12s. My thought right now is I'd like something that's in between the Pagid RSL29s I previously ran and the 3.12s in terms of friction—that extreme initial bite can be a little tough to manage. if the 1.11s have heat management like the 3.12s then that's a winner. It's either that or I step up to stickier rubber to make more use of the 3.12s.

All of this reminds that I should set up a math channel in RaceStudio to try and get an accurate representation of brake pedal pressure.

Yeah would definitely recommend trying the 1.11s when you are ready for your next set. You should have no issues with heat (I have a lot of time with them on my race car - same calipers, heavy, full slicks, pretty good pace, no ducting). Definitely not a step down from the 3.12 in terms of performance for our type of use. The 3.12 does have a bit higher temp threshold on paper - but we would be very hard pressed getting there with what we do. So to me it comes down to bite preference - and for anything less than a high grip competition situation I prefer the 1.11. But I do really, really like the 3.12 in the right setting.

[AWC-F87]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Pics and videos if you get to take any.

I have some pics I'll throw up soon. But no video. I ran a 1:46:03
Car has a low 1:40 in it easy. I just need to go to Seca a few more times. It's a very high risk track.
4 Mclarens totaled and towed out!!!

[detroitm2]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

That's actually really good advice. In the afternoon session (that I didnt record because my gopro was dead) I did move my seat forward and I found that my steering was better and I wasnt death gripping trying to hold my self up. Its the first time that I didnt keep checking the nose of my car and actually looking around the curve to the next pickup point.

I am also unhappy of the video washout as well. I think for the next event I'll move the go pro from my rollbar to the front windshield. Also, it looks less washed out if you full screen it on a laptop screen vs a phone.

Tip for your gopro. If you press and hold the screen, somewhere outside of the front windshield. It will lock the white balance to that area for as long as it's turned on. This helps keep the lighting from washing out everything when you drive into the sun.

It's a bit tricky to do if you can't get in your back seat, but it's doable.

There may be a way to set it with the mobile app as well.

[detroitm2]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Just got my laptimer installed today. I had a pretty clean run except when I got to the b pillar. I didn't see anyway to not run it across the dash or without drilling a hole. I did consider what it would take to run the cord through the vent but didn't like that idea due to heat.

I have mine mounted to a proclip over the vents above the radio. Stays out of the way and the wire is easily routed until a plug in the passenger footwell.

However, I'm guessing you're using the OBD connector instead of direct to canbus, so that option is probably less ideal.

[Anonymoose]

Originally Posted by detroitm2

Tip for your gopro. If you press and hold the screen, somewhere outside of the front windshield. It will lock the white balance to that area for as long as it's turned on. This helps keep the lighting from washing out everything when you drive into the sun.

It's a bit tricky to do if you can't get in your back seat, but it's doable.

There may be a way to set it with the mobile app as well.

Thanks this is helpful. I actually went with a smartycam setup on my rollbar. I'll be moving the GoPro to front window or maybe even the tow strap area.

[detroitm2]

Originally Posted by Anonymoose

Thanks this is helpful. I actually went with a smartycam setup on my rollbar. I'll be moving the GoPro to front window or maybe even the tow strap area.

Right on. Wish they had a 1080p 60fps smartycam. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by detroitm2

Right on. Wish they had a 1080p 60fps smartycam. I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Agreed, everyone would! Or better yet just an overlay device that works with any camera. The GoPro is generally a big piece of shit too. I give it 50% dependability.