01-03-2022, 04:17 AM | #1 |
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Another Spun Crank Hub!
So I was one of those who thought it would never happen to me. I have a 2020 M2 Competition M6 with only about 7,500 miles. It was tuned, BM3 Stage 2 AGG. I mostly drove the car like a grandma, and was more about cornering than acceleration, ie. I did not drive it hard very often, and when I did, it usually wasn't high RPM/throttle (why even own the car? I know, I know). Never missed a gear or overrevved the engine. Performed maintenance as or more frequently than required.
Then, lo and behold, cruising down a hill at 0% throttle and 1200 RPM, the drivetrain malfunction message pops up. Exhaust note sounds different. Message says I can still drive, so I do. Car felt like it was out of time (lack of power, obnoxious rap from the exhaust, hesitation on throttle). I drove it very gently once the message popped up. Drove it back home and scanned for codes. Sure enough, camshafts correlation to crankshaft out of tolerance. Reading live data while running also showed VANOS compensating for 16 degrees of timing. Here we go. Decided to try BMW (I live in Korea with a US spec model, so thought maybe I could flash it back to stock and get away with it). Turns out they had never heard of this problem, but the advisor researched some American websites and found the problem was indeed known. They took the car in and started diagnosis, which must've lasted all of 5 minutes, because BMW Korea wanted a read out from the DME, which obviously showed the software had been tampered with. So, I was on my own (which I was kind of relieved because I didn't want the same parts going back in). I opted for the Precision Dynamics single pin one-piece design. It seemed most fool-proof for installation. As far as the tune contributing to the problem, I am doubtful of that theory. Until I see some actual evidence or proof, I continue to maintain these failures are just random. Having more power/torque from just a tune doesn't put any additional stress on the crank hub, as long as you stay under redline. If someone DOES have facts to the contrary, please share. I don't accept BMW's answer because of course they would say that. After being away for work for two months and looking around for a shop that would let me use a bay, I finally began four days ago. I won't do a DIY write up, as those already exist either on this or other forums or Youtube. But I will describe a few takeaways from my experience. My crank bolt did not seem as tight as I was expecting it to be. Using a 3/4" breaker bar, it didn't take an excessive amount of force to loosen it. Surely less than it took to torque it. Perhaps that lends to the theory these failures occur because the crank bolt loosens somehow (or maybe weren't torqued properly from factory, or a material issue caused them to stretch too much. Who knows). You can use a friend and a pry bar pushed into the flywheel teeth (at the bottom of the bell housing) to hold the crank for removal/installation of crankshaft bolt. Not the "correct" tool, but it worked without any issue. Didn't leave marks on the flywheel teeth, either. Lock the A/C belt tensioner back with a dowel/rod, it will save you a lot of headache with the tight serpentine belt. The location of the hole for the flywheel/crankshaft index pin (the tool used to locate and hold the crankshaft at #1 TDC). I ended up buying a one day subscription to BMW TIS (well worth the $30, in this case). No other source I found mentioned you had to remove a plastic plug from the hole (picture below). In my case, I could not see it, and I was feeling for a hole, not piece of plastic, so I had a lot of difficulty with this. However, once I saw the picture from TIS, it was easy to pull it out and insert the pin. With the spark plugs out, it's easy to rotate the engine from the alternator pulley. This makes it easy to set/check timing without trying to get a socket on the crank, and also makes it easy to insert the index pin by yourself. I found it easiest to insert the pin from below the car, then lower the car to turn the engine while wiggling the pin into place. I was able to do this myself, and I did not remove the J-pipe from the intake manifold. I did have to remove the small wiring bracket near the index pin location, though, as it did not allow the pin to fully insert. Disconnecting the two wires from the passenger side which go across the engine bay makes dealing with anything around the valve cover much easier. Finally, one neat feature of the S55 is if you set the timing with the cams 180 degrees off it's non-interference. Don't ask how I know that. All in all, it wasn't too bad, and took me about 24 hours total time, including some *cough* re-treading an already walked path. Also includes a ton of time spent looking for tools in an unfamiliar shop and using the wrong tools for the job (it's not an active mechanic repair shop anymore, they mostly do detailing/tint, so they didn't have a ton of tools). I give this job 1000/1000 curses upon BMW's unholy name. Last edited by Bass_Masterson; 02-03-2022 at 06:37 AM.. |
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01-03-2022, 07:01 AM | #2 |
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Oh no, yea engine work is hit or miss out here lol. Glad you got that fixed though and it doesnt seem like there way anything serious.
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01-03-2022, 09:53 AM | #4 |
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Thank you for sharing
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01-03-2022, 10:05 AM | #5 |
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Congrats on sorting it out. Doesn't spun crank usually destroy the engine? Surprised it was that easy for you.
I installed the crank bolt capture plate for extra insurance. |
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01-03-2022, 12:04 PM | #7 | |
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That's quite a beefy tune! Stage 2+ is a lot of power for driving like a pensioner 😀. |
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01-03-2022, 03:49 PM | #8 |
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Yeah most of the time valves don't hit the pistons, the only time that really happens from what I have seen is on money shifts.
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01-03-2022, 03:56 PM | #9 | |
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I'm pretty sure they voided my warranty. Communication is difficult as I don't speak Korean, haha. They did set a permanent "Software tamper" code that I can't erase with BM3. I requested they do not update the software and they agreed before they looked at the car. I am hoping they did not lock my DME, is there any way to tell besides trying to flash? |
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01-03-2022, 04:11 PM | #10 | |
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01-04-2022, 06:23 PM | #12 |
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Sad it happened but no damage to your engine.... everything is stronger now, and you'll never have to worry about it again....
In the end it's the best of both world, you run it oem thinking everything would be fine... you were bad lucked and it happened to you .... Now, you can drive like you stole your grand mother car....without any worries |
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01-05-2022, 12:12 AM | #14 |
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Stage 2 Aggressive is the name of the map I used, for 93 octane.
Only other mods were catless downpipes, straight piped exhaust, ultimate clutch pedal, and Autosolutions short shifter. I didn't install a bolt capture because there simply isn't any data on if they actually prevent the OEM timing sprocket from slipping. I'm not saying they don't work, but I think it would have failed even if I had installed one. Last edited by Bass_Masterson; 02-03-2022 at 06:37 AM.. |
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01-05-2022, 10:50 PM | #15 | |
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01-05-2022, 11:24 PM | #16 |
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Ucp and ssk is a must on this car
I recently sat in a g80 m3 and the clutch pedal is a lot higher than my m2c with ucp Shifter is very soft oem, ssk make everything tighter and bolt action style Do it ! you can't regret |
01-06-2022, 12:26 AM | #17 | |
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They're essential mods, in my opinion. UCP is great. So nice being same height as the brake pedal. I set the assist spring in the firmest slot and it's still a little soft, but it's consistent and travel is shorter. CDV delete also done before the pedal, and that is also well worth it. Autosolutions SSK is superb. Never been a fan of BMW shifters (my M2C reminded me of a tighter version of my 97 540i shifter, and car had 205,000 miles). BMW doesn't seem to put money into improving its manuals, and for good reason, few buy them. I opted for the 30% reduction, stock height, and bronze urethane bushings. Throw is short but not ridiculous, virtually all play and rubbery feel is gone, and the lever clicks into place in a satisfying manner. Shift effort is a bit higher, which I like, but that might turn some off to going over 20% reduction. |
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01-06-2022, 12:44 AM | #18 | |
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I'll probably go with 15% because I don't really mind the stock throws or effort that much, just the feel. |
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01-06-2022, 05:07 PM | #19 | |
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This is why I've not worried about a SCH and have also added the CBC....Worst case is several hours labor to get in there and re-align it if it does spin..
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01-06-2022, 10:57 PM | #20 | |
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01-07-2022, 11:33 AM | #21 | |
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My point is that the engine isn't damaged its just needs to have the timing reset and to replace any parts to secure it. Many people that have a SCH go with one of the aftermarket SCH solutions available. Your already in there might as well button it up as secure as possible...
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