04-25-2021, 03:08 PM | #24 | |
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I recommend to cover the knobs if you're in severe dust/beach'es or driving your car in the snow as the adjustment do seize. Attached a photo of the Original ride height in order to compare with above photo of 25 mm lowering.
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Last edited by Krelle; 04-25-2021 at 03:16 PM.. Reason: photo.. |
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11-04-2021, 10:26 PM | #25 |
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Just told my installer set it at the lowest.. as per bilstein recommendation.
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05-14-2022, 05:58 AM | #26 | |
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Drives: Current: F87 M2C, Jeep Wrangle
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My main purpose is to have an OEM+ ride, improve confidence on back roads, and reduce body roll. I won't be tracking the car. Lowering is not my priority. I am also wondering if paying an extra 30% to get the Litchfield version of the B16 is worth it.
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05-15-2022, 05:03 AM | #27 | |
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Can't comment on Litchfield version, but there are some members here running it and I recall a thread on it that would be worth searching for. |
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Kattanah137.50 |
11-14-2022, 10:21 PM | #28 | |
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I was informed by the installer that there will be a 15mm drop from the OEM. what about the case of DailyDriver here on this thread. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1697147
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2018 BMW M2 LCI BM3 Stage 2 + MPE + FTP charge pipe + MST V2 Inlet + TurboSmart DV + CSF FMIC + AA Hi-flow Downpipe + Turner Rear Shifter Bushing + Wiechers Strut Brace + Bilstein B16 PSS10 + Apex VS-5RS
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11-15-2022, 08:20 PM | #29 |
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Did you do it?
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2018 BMW M2 LCI BM3 Stage 2 + MPE + FTP charge pipe + MST V2 Inlet + TurboSmart DV + CSF FMIC + AA Hi-flow Downpipe + Turner Rear Shifter Bushing + Wiechers Strut Brace + Bilstein B16 PSS10 + Apex VS-5RS
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12-10-2022, 03:12 PM | #31 | |
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1) The dampers have a set range of travel and changing the ride height does not change this. If a 30mm drop (recommended minimum drop) leaves you with 50mm of compression travel (not the actual numbers, using as an example) and 50mm of rebound (droop travel), then a 0mm drop would only leave you with 20mm of rebound travel from that 0mm drop (stock height). That could led to your wheel/tire coming off the ground over minor bumps or road drop-aways which is why Bilstein recommends specific heights from stock. 2) If you raise the spring seat too far it's possible for the spring to compress far enough to coil-bind. Coil-bind (aka stack/block height) is when the spring compresses until all the coils stack up and hit each other. Every coil spring has a free length and block length and if you don't allow enough height between the spring perch and the damper body, you can bottom out the spring before damper stops against the bump stop. The only way to safely run PSS10s at stock height would be to install a spacer in between the strut mount and wheelhouse, or send the struts to Bilstein and have the extended length increased. Not that you're looking to do that but this goes to show how much work would be involved in doing it. |
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12-12-2022, 02:33 AM | #32 | |
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Rear: Lowest setting is OEM's height reduction of –10mm (going lower = past the range) Based on what Alfy posted, you can still make the front even lower (–25), however the rear is already at its lowest (–10). Why would anyone want to make the front even lower when the rear is already at its lowest limit @ –10. This makes the car lower at the front and raised at the back (compared to a stock). Hotrod? Is that really what Bilstein designed this suspension to do? How are you guys measuring the height? Garage floor to top of fender right? I'm getting 680mm F and 682mm R. I'm doing something incorrectly? Pretty much mean all the other setups posted here (focused on lowering) has compromised the durability and functionality of their suspension? Yes there are threads left to bring the car lower (or OEM), but that setup brings it outside of Bilstein range = compromising the suspension. In addition, if you look at several sites selling the B16 for F87, they're all saying different lowering range. Frustrating really.
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2018 BMW M2 LCI BM3 Stage 2 + MPE + FTP charge pipe + MST V2 Inlet + TurboSmart DV + CSF FMIC + AA Hi-flow Downpipe + Turner Rear Shifter Bushing + Wiechers Strut Brace + Bilstein B16 PSS10 + Apex VS-5RS
Last edited by vrooooom; 12-13-2022 at 08:57 PM.. |
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12-13-2022, 03:59 PM | #33 |
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Can anyone else verify the above?
I was wanting to do the minimum 30mm drop in the front and 35-38mm drop in the rear, which is more of a track setup for better rear weight transfer & traction coming out of corners. |
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12-18-2022, 10:14 PM | #35 | |
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Stance: Static 1G stance (or driving down the road at a constant rate) is different than the car's dynamic stance (accelerating/decelerating or cornering). One of the reasons to increase rake would be a track driven, or dedicated racecar, that is constantly under full acceleration or braking. If the car is capable of compressing the rear suspension 15mm under full accel and raises the front 5mm a net rake of 10mm lower in the front relative to the rear could result in a level chassis under full acceleration and, during the decel, will already have more weight on the front which is where most of the braking is happening anyway. For that reason, most race/track driven cars will have a noticeable amount of rake at 1G static. Aerodynamics: Although not completely separate from stance, a car with rake decreases the aerodynamic resistance due to a lesser frontal area and, because of body angle, generally increases downforce on the rear (if the vehicle is setup to do that) or at the very least, decrease rear lift. This isn't as important in vehicles without wings or downforce, but most modern performance vehicles have far better aero characteristics from the factory than cars did even 20 years ago. Ride Height: There are a few ways to do this, depending on the car/chassis. The first is, and BMW way, is from the lower lip of the rim through the axle center, to the fender in MM. However, this way of measuring is relative to the car body and whether it can be regarded as a true controlled reference of measure. The other way is to pick and measure control points on the chassis itself. For true track/race cars the pinch welds tend to be good points for this or, in case of BMW, unmolested jack points are an accurate alternative. Additionally, subframe measuring points in conjunction with control arm and/or axle angles (the Mercedes-Benz way) also work very well but you generally have to be on an alignment rack. If you only measure fender height (or do the old Honda "X" finger gap method) you can end up with a car that looks really stupid and handles as such. A perfect example is the E36 models, if you set ride height based on fender gap (and treat them as equals) you'll end up with a Tijuana dragster. That's because the fender gaps on the E36 are intentionally 2+ inches different at even chassis height (if memory serves me correctly). To throw another wrench in things, the M2 uses a .5" tire diameter (.25" radius) deviation that rakes the car by .25" from tires alone which is why BMW measures from the rim edge rather than the ground. Lowering Range: If Bilstein uses the same spring rates for all 1/2/3 series models in a given generation, all those different models will have different lowering heights because the lowering heights are based on few major factors, chief of which being preload. If there is a set amount of preload, plus or minus a certain amount that is acceptable on a given suspension, the actual ride height will vary based on the weight of the model. That's likely the reason for the differences in recommended lowering heights. |
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vrooooom325.00 |
12-22-2022, 08:12 PM | #36 |
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Having mine installed right now. Just one minor concern on the install—found some oil mark on the box of one for the rear. And some on the damper body itself. Should I be concern? Mechanic cycled it pushing it down a few times and we saw none coming out.
Shop has its full support and offered to replace it once they get a new shipment. Just wanted to hear if this is something of concern. Last edited by vrooooom; 12-22-2022 at 11:30 PM.. |
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12-23-2022, 10:55 PM | #37 | |
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That said I did have a weird situation on one of my personal cars where there was a tiny chunk of chrome plated shaft missing on certain part of the damper that only leaked only when the damper moved far enough for that part to move passed the seal head. I was able to sand it smooth enough for the problem to go away but it was definitely interesting. Best bet is to clean it and keep and eye on it. If it doesn't leak more after a few hundred miles it should be fine. |
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vrooooom325.00 |
10-02-2023, 09:54 AM | #39 |
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10-04-2023, 04:13 AM | #40 |
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Found it myself after some digging, for those that need it: https://productdesk.cart.bilsteinus....-Y705A00_6.pdf.
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10-04-2023, 08:45 AM | #41 |
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Tried to look for it, unsuccessful.
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