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      12-13-2018, 06:13 PM   #23
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I keep coming back to these. Can I justify it based on the work I do? Probably not. But it would make the work I do that much easier and I'm not getting any younger, and it's a helluva lot safer than jury rigging jackstands, and....

Can someone explain what the 5000 comes with as far as the rubber blocks and if it's sufficient for the M2? I assume I'd want to get as much lift as possible to slide under to work on downpipe/other exhaust and of course I don't want to tater the plastic on the jack points.

Other projects are an e90, R56 Mini, 66 Mustang and possibly a 2014 Acura RDX, but not so likely on the latter. Would I need to invest in any other components to work on any of these?
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      12-13-2018, 06:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantComplain View Post
I keep coming back to these. Can I justify it based on the work I do? Probably not. But it would make the work I do that much easier and I'm not getting any younger, and it's a helluva lot safer than jury rigging jackstands, and....

Can someone explain what the 5000 comes with as far as the rubber blocks and if it's sufficient for the M2? I assume I'd want to get as much lift as possible to slide under to work on downpipe/other exhaust and of course I don't want to tater the plastic on the jack points.

Other projects are an e90, R56 Mini, 66 Mustang and possibly a 2014 Acura RDX, but not so likely on the latter. Would I need to invest in any other components to work on any of these?
The 5000 comes with a set of short and tall rubber blocks. With my 3-series I was able to use the tall blocks in conjunction with my hockey puck adapters in the jack points when I was at stock ride height.

For your other vehicles, check the jack point spacing. I have a feeling with the RDX (and possibly Mustang) you'll need the frame extension kit if you get the 5000SLX. I need those to reach the jack points fully on the latest Accord. Of course, if you get the 5000EXT you won't need that.
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      12-14-2018, 01:26 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantComplain View Post
Can someone explain what the 5000 comes with as far as the rubber blocks and if it's sufficient for the M2? I assume I'd want to get as much lift as possible to slide under to work on downpipe/other exhaust and of course I don't want to tater the plastic on the jack points.

Other projects are an e90, R56 Mini, 66 Mustang and possibly a 2014 Acura RDX, but not so likely on the latter. Would I need to invest in any other components to work on any of these?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
The 5000 comes with a set of short and tall rubber blocks. With my 3-series I was able to use the tall blocks in conjunction with my hockey puck adapters in the jack points when I was at stock ride height.

For your other vehicles, check the jack point spacing. I have a feeling with the RDX (and possibly Mustang) you'll need the frame extension kit if you get the 5000SLX. I need those to reach the jack points fully on the latest Accord. Of course, if you get the 5000EXT you won't need that.
I bought the 5000SLX from Costco (obviously; I'm the OP!), but after trying to lift my wife's 2016 Honda Pilot, I got in touch with Quickjack and ordered up the frame extensions, as well as the SUV and Light Truck adaptor set.

One last thing that I ordered, and which isn't on their website, is some square cupped top plates for the SUV and Light Truck adaptor set which you use as an alternative to the round flat top plates that are supplied as standard with that accessory.

I found that the Honda bent over pinch weld jack points were un-safe on just the rubber blocks, especially if you don't have the whole of the rubber block under the jack point because the spacing is too far without the frame extensions! The square top plates solve this problem because they've got rubber inside a square channel. Even if there were to be some slipping, the metal channel would prevent the jack point slipping entirely off. I'll try and tack some photos of these square top plates at some point and post here.

You don't need jack pads for the square plastic jack points with a quickjack; the rubber blocks lift the car perfectly on this jack points and don't damage them at all. Just make sure the rubber blocks are centred on the jack points.
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      12-14-2018, 02:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantComplain View Post
I keep coming back to these. Can I justify it based on the work I do? Probably not. But it would make the work I do that much easier and I'm not getting any younger, and it's a helluva lot safer than jury rigging jackstands, and....

Can someone explain what the 5000 comes with as far as the rubber blocks and if it's sufficient for the M2? I assume I'd want to get as much lift as possible to slide under to work on downpipe/other exhaust and of course I don't want to tater the plastic on the jack points.

Other projects are an e90, R56 Mini, 66 Mustang and possibly a 2014 Acura RDX, but not so likely on the latter. Would I need to invest in any other components to work on any of these?

Safety is the key for me. These modern cars are really only safe when being lifted at those 4 main lift points (a few exceptions exist) this is the safest, portable and affordable solution I have seen. For other cars the key is the distance of the lift points. I use mine for my M2 and my wife's Honda Accord, the Accord has a much longer wheel base but it works fine. For SUV most use the adapters that you can buy.
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      12-14-2018, 05:41 PM   #27
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BTW: Is the car cover (touches like all fabric) sold in Costco worth buying? It's for indoor, dust proof only.
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      12-16-2018, 11:40 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantComplain View Post
I keep coming back to these. Can I justify it based on the work I do? Probably not. But it would make the work I do that much easier and I'm not getting any younger, and it's a helluva lot safer than jury rigging jackstands, and....

Can someone explain what the 5000 comes with as far as the rubber blocks and if it's sufficient for the M2? I assume I'd want to get as much lift as possible to slide under to work on downpipe/other exhaust and of course I don't want to tater the plastic on the jack points.

Other projects are an e90, R56 Mini, 66 Mustang and possibly a 2014 Acura RDX, but not so likely on the latter. Would I need to invest in any other components to work on any of these?
I'm in same boat as you. Trying to justify cost but like you, safety is key. Since I bought it (still boxed up) I've decided to return it/keep it about 4 times now lol but what other options are there besides non-confidence inspiring stands or an actual lift? Sure, we can use ramps but no good if working on brakes etc. but that is where I'm at now...considering ramps for underneath work and jack/stands for brake/wheel work...and keeping $1000 in my pocket.
Question for those who have replaced their sport cat - is front end only ramps sufficient for completing the install?
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      12-16-2018, 07:06 PM   #29
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Be careful

Just saw one of these fail today on instagram. They haven’t been able to diagnose the cause though. Compressor was not to blame however.
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      12-16-2018, 07:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabozo View Post
I'm in same boat as you. Trying to justify cost but like you, safety is key. Since I bought it (still boxed up) I've decided to return it/keep it about 4 times now lol but what other options are there besides non-confidence inspiring stands or an actual lift? Sure, we can use ramps but no good if working on brakes etc. but that is where I'm at now...considering ramps for underneath work and jack/stands for brake/wheel work...and keeping $1000 in my pocket.
Question for those who have replaced their sport cat - is front end only ramps sufficient for completing the install?
Yes, I jack up my front end and put 6 inch ramps under each front wheel. Perfect lift height for sport cat installation. I’ve tried lifting it higher using jack stands but then you end up having to reach really high up to the top clamp and it’s much more difficult as I had to do a partial crunch to reach up there and to do that while fiddling with the clamp on and off is a royal pain. The 6 inch lift from my ramps is perfect while I lie on the garage floor. Another inch or two would also work for me, but higher than that and it would make the job harder.
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      12-16-2018, 08:11 PM   #31
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Quote:
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Just saw one of these fail today on instagram. They haven’t been able to diagnose the cause though. Compressor was not to blame however.
Looks like they did not pay close attention to having the quick jack in the locked position. The right side jack is fully locked, no way the left side can go down unless it is unlocked. It is a hydraulic system which is why the car should never be left in the up position unless the locks are engaged. With the locks engaged they can hold far more than what they are rated for.
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      12-16-2018, 11:02 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabozo View Post
I'm in same boat as you. Trying to justify cost but like you, safety is key. Since I bought it (still boxed up) I've decided to return it/keep it about 4 times now lol but what other options are there besides non-confidence inspiring stands or an actual lift? Sure, we can use ramps but no good if working on brakes etc. but that is where I'm at now...considering ramps for underneath work and jack/stands for brake/wheel work...and keeping $1000 in my pocket.
Question for those who have replaced their sport cat - is front end only ramps sufficient for completing the install?
Yes, you can do a cat with ramps. I did. It sucked but I think it was worse for me than the average bear.

C'mon man, do it. I'll split it with you. We can keep it at my house but you can grab it whenever you need it
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      12-17-2018, 04:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantComplain View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabozo View Post
I'm in same boat as you. Trying to justify cost but like you, safety is key. Since I bought it (still boxed up) I've decided to return it/keep it about 4 times now lol but what other options are there besides non-confidence inspiring stands or an actual lift? Sure, we can use ramps but no good if working on brakes etc. but that is where I'm at now...considering ramps for underneath work and jack/stands for brake/wheel work...and keeping $1000 in my pocket.
Question for those who have replaced their sport cat - is front end only ramps sufficient for completing the install?
Yes, you can do a cat with ramps. I did. It sucked but I think it was worse for me than the average bear.

C'mon man, do it. I'll split it with you. We can keep it at my house but you can grab it whenever you need it
Lol tempting for sure.

Complicating matters is other than the cat I can't really think of a reason why I would need to work under the car. Most of the maintenance items (brakes etc) or mods I'm interested in can be achieved from the perimeter or above. There is however a damn garbage bag that I ran over in the spring and now I'm always greeted with the smell of burned plastic when I exit the car ...drives me nuts. I've scraped as much off the exhaust that I can reach but more remains
So at this point, the lift would be more of a luxury than a necessity.
But stay tuned...tomorrow is a new day I may change my mind again lol.
What's Costco 's return policy? A year? Oh god....
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      12-18-2018, 02:47 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5thGearPinned View Post
Just saw one of these fail today on instagram. They haven’t been able to diagnose the cause though. Compressor was not to blame however.
From the manual:

Floor surface must be dry, flat, and have a minimum compressive strength of 500 PSI.

Do not work under an elevated Vehicle unless properly rated Vehicle Jack Stands
are used and place under the factory approved Lifting Points.

Yes. If you put your QuickJack Frames next to each other with both Lock Bars on the outside and
the end with the sticker away from you, then the Frame on the left is the “left” Frame and the Frame on
the right is the “right” Frame. These are the orientations noted on the boxes the QuickJack Frames
come in and is shown in the drawing in Unpacking. (so they used them backwards as well. left side of a car is driver...)

Last edited by McPurrs; 12-18-2018 at 02:59 PM..
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      12-18-2018, 04:20 PM   #35
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Do not work under an elevated Vehicle unless properly rated Vehicle Jack Stands
are used and place under the factory approved Lifting Points.
Wait. So for liability they tell you that you need to use jack stands in addition to the Quickjack? And those jack stands are supposed to go where the Quickjack lifted the car from? Uhhh....
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      12-18-2018, 04:43 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McPurrs View Post
Do not work under an elevated Vehicle unless properly rated Vehicle Jack Stands
are used and place under the factory approved Lifting Points.
Wait. So for liability they tell you that you need to use jack stands in addition to the Quickjack? And those jack stands are supposed to go where the Quickjack lifted the car from? Uhhh....
Lol good point.
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      12-19-2018, 10:09 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubzz24 View Post
Wait. So for liability they tell you that you need to use jack stands in addition to the Quickjack? And those jack stands are supposed to go where the Quickjack lifted the car from? Uhhh....
yea I was thinking the same thing.. like wtf
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      12-19-2018, 12:03 PM   #38
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Wait. So for liability they tell you that you need to use jack stands in addition to the Quickjack? And those jack stands are supposed to go where the Quickjack lifted the car from? Uhhh....
No, that is a generic safety quote. The quickjack is a properly rated jack stand.
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      12-19-2018, 12:56 PM   #39
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Quote:
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No, that is a generic safety quote. The quickjack is a properly rated jack stand.
not according to their documentation. I copy and pasted that from the guide you can find online, that ships with every unit.
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      12-19-2018, 05:45 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by McPurrs View Post
not according to their documentation. I copy and pasted that from the guide you can find online, that ships with every unit.
Yes, I have the manual. My interpretation was quickjack = jack stands. However, I've been wrong before.
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      12-20-2018, 12:12 AM   #41
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Looks like the statement is intended to protect them legally from any mishaps while their product is being used.
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      12-20-2018, 02:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankdoll View Post
No, that is a generic safety quote. The quickjack is a properly rated jack stand.

How did you interpret that from this? :
"Do not work under an elevated Vehicle unless properly rated Vehicle Jack Stands
are used and place under the factory approved Lifting Points."

Edit: but then I read this shit on their website:
"No More Jack Stands!
QuickJack offers far more surface area than jack stands, substantially increasing its stability compared to old-fashioned stands. The self-locking bars do the work of those stands—and everyone agrees, this portable car lift does it better."

So I agree with another poster here, it is for legal purposes. Though I would think they would lose as they contradict themselves but I am not a lawyer.

Last edited by McPurrs; 12-20-2018 at 02:29 PM..
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      12-20-2018, 03:10 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McPurrs View Post
How did you interpret that from this? :
"Do not work under an elevated Vehicle unless properly rated Vehicle Jack Stands
are used and place under the factory approved Lifting Points."
I saw it as a generic safety quote and just used some common sense. The whole point of the quickjack is to replace a jack / jack stand system. I really didn't think it meant I needed jack stands too. Quickjack fits under the jackpoints and goes up like three feet. I haven't even seen jackstands that could go that high.
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      12-20-2018, 05:58 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankdoll View Post
...goes up like three feet...
Actually less than 2 feet with the standard rubber blocks.

https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-s...-car-lift.html
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