[twintiga]

Does this help with the clunk I experience going into first gear?

[doughboy]

Yes, precisely.

That's why he supplies bushings with it.

It's a ten second job to change themy when the shift mech is all out.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Yes, precisely.

That's why he supplies bushings with it.

It's a ten second job to change themy when the shift mech is all out.

Awesome, thanks

[wellvrsd]

Thanks a million for this post, I had been trying to figure out what to do about a short shifter. All the other options I had seen seemed inadequate. I put my order in today.

For anyone else thinking about this shifter, Ronald builds shifters in batches, and he says he's going to be starting a run of M2 shifters early to middle of next week. It's prime time for ordering one.

[m20e3087]

Originally Posted by wellvrsd

Thanks a million for this post, I had been trying to figure out what to do about a short shifter. All the other options I had seen seemed inadequate. I put my order in today.

For anyone else thinking about this shifter, Ronald builds shifters in batches, and he says he's going to be starting a run of M2 shifters early to middle of next week. It's prime time for ordering one.

How much was it?

[Poochie]

You can't "speed shift" these new BMWs without the shifter gate blocking such action or without possible damaging the synchronizers.

Other than feel, I don't see the need for a short shifter.

It's not race car with a "dog box", it was made with daily driving in mind, which has some play built in.

There's a slightly lighter flywheel for the M2 over the standard manual BMWs but other than that, it's the same exact gearbox.

OP, thanks for the feedback, regardless.

[wellvrsd]

Originally Posted by m20e3087

How much was it?

$449, optional urethane carrier arm bushings are an additional $49.

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by Poochie

You can't "speed shift" these new BMWs without the shifter gate blocking such action or without possible damaging the synchronizers.

Other than feel, I don't see the need for a short shifter.

It's not race car with a "dog box", it was made with daily driving in mind, which has some play built in.

There's a slightly lighter flywheel for the M2 over the standard manual BMWs but other than that, it's the same exact gearbox.

OP, thanks for the feedback, regardless.

It's all about feel that's it. I've ordered one and it's on the way to the UK this week

After a lot of discussion with Ron I went for 10mm shorter and 20% less throw.

BMW made a "proper" short shift kit for the E9x range with replacement carrier, bearings and a reduced throw shift arm and linkage - it transformed the my 335i IMO that's why I wanted one for the M2C which has a very similar 'box to my old 335i.

It also got rid of that sometimes stodgy feel, made it very clickety-clack feel with all the rubber squidge removed, very nice.

See BMW short shift kit here - why they don't make one for newer models I don;t know?

[SFM2C]

I noticed a few folks mentioning a noisy sound coming from the AS SSK with stock knob, but went away when going with a Raceseng, for example. Anyone running M Performance Knob w/ AS SSK with no / minimal sound issues?

[doughboy]

Mine was most noisy specficially with the M performance shift knob.

Standard knob was OK. Raceseng knob even better.

[SFM2C]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Mine was most noisy specficially with the M performance shift knob.

Standard knob was OK. Raceseng knob even better.

Damn, wanted to grab the Performance. Okay. Hmm. Anyone else running other knobs that aren’t noisy with the SSK?

[RocketBoots]

The increased noise is due to parts of the short shifter, as well as any replaced bushings, which are more firm. A heavier, larger shift knob, like some of the ones from Raceseng, can help to reduce the noise, but will also numb the feel a bit.

For me, I welcome the 'noise'. It's not a random noise; it's more communication with the car, and gives you more feedback on what's going on with the engine/tranny.

I prefer the OEM knob to the M-Performance one; mainly because I'm an overhand/partial side-hand shifter.

[doughboy]

i think we are talking about different noises.

I mean a pretty intrusive whirring / ringing noise that is primary shaft speed, the mperformance shift knob amplified this sound. A bit like an electric drill kind of noise. Enough for passengers to ask what it is unless you turn the music up.

not good.

The short shift kit naturally makes the shift MORE notchy and stiff which is both good and bad. A heavy shift knob helps a lot to smooth out the notches without numbing the tight mechanical feel, it doesnt add any flex to the shift just mass and momentum.

it also damps the high frequency whirring / ringing noise that I was getting.

[SFM2C]

Originally Posted by doughboy

i think we are talking about different noises.

I mean a pretty intrusive whirring / ringing noise that is primary shaft speed, the mperformance shift knob amplified this sound. A bit like an electric drill kind of noise. Enough for passengers to ask what it is unless you turn the music up.

not good.

The short shift kit naturally makes the shift MORE notchy and stiff which is both good and bad. A heavy shift knob helps a lot to smooth out the notches without numbing the tight mechanical feel, it doesnt add any flex to the shift just mass and momentum.

it also damps the high frequency whirring / ringing noise that I was getting.

yeah, I’m referring to the whir that people got.. sounds like the MPerformance makes this the worst. just trying to see if I’d be ok staying with stock knob. Sounds like would def be ok with Raceseng

[Daytona_550]

I have the stock shifter and very minimal noise after 200 miles. A few more thoughts here: https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=25642152

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

I haven't seen too many of these installed on the M2, so I thought I'd give a quick review. AutoSolutions is generally known to have made the best SSK for the E46 M3, and probably the best SSK's in general short of (pun intended) something like CAE. The owner, Ron, has an amazing knowledge base and understanding of BMW shifters. I went back and forth with Ron for months, and he finally agreed to make me a SSK for the M2 Comp (but should fit the OG M2 as well). Mine was a bit custom in the throws, feel, and length. I wanted something with noticeably shorter throws and minimal increase in shifting effort. Ron analyzed the weakest parts of BMW's current shifter design, and only replaced the parts that he felt made a significant difference.

I had considered doing the install myself, but so glad I didn't. Performance Technic did the install, and they had to remove the plastic covers, multiple heat shields, and the exhaust; and partially move/drop the transmission and driveshaft. They did an excellent job. Due to the parts this kit replaces, the install is not possible from the top.

The OEM components feel cheap and flimsy in comparison, even though they are not. OEM:



The good stuff:



So how is it? I didn't think BMW's current shifter was too bad, especially compared to older BMW's, that had almost an inch of play while IN GEAR. However, the AutoSolutions SSK makes the OEM one feel mushy and vague. The shifts are extremely solid, precise, and crisp; they feel almost magnetic. There is definitely more connection with the car; everything just feels so much more direct. I did notice a slight increase in engine noise, but I view that as a positive; you have more communication with the car. There is not a noticeable increase in vibrations. This does not feel like an evolutionary improvement of the OEM shifter; it feels completely different, almost revolutionary. It seems even better when you shift fast. I feel like a race car driver I have no problems with the auto-rev-matching. Everything works smoothly. There is a slight increase in shift effort required. But very importantly, it is very easy to shift into first. I already liked the M2 a lot; this makes me like it a lot more.

A quick vid of the shorter throws:

One important thing worth mentioning is that it sits completely centered, the same as OEM, when in neutral. Previous kits for F-series cars from other manufacturers had problems with the shifter not resting properly in neutral, or the knob being twisted. This kit has none of those issues.

Was wondering what reduction you went with in height. Or did you stay with OEM height? Also what reduction in effort? If you went shorter in height, did you find that the arm rest pad interferes with your shifting?

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by chief1richard

Was wondering what reduction you went with in height. Or did you stay with OEM height? Also what reduction in effort? If you went shorter in height, did you find that the arm rest pad interferes with your shifting?

Just to clarify, a short shifter INCREASES the shift effort. It decreases the shifter throw distance.

i.e. a -20% throw reduction will increase shift effort by +20%

If you also have a reduced height this decreases the effective throw and further increases effort.

I went for -20% throw and -10mm height, which works out about -23% throw overall.

But as I now have a Raceseng shift knob, that is a little taller than OE, so I'm about back at OE shift height.

Also, re armrest clash, that is more about your shoulder height as to whether your elbow hits the armrest, a lower shift knob will lower your hand and forearm a little but not your shoulder and elbow of course.

[RocketBoots]

Originally Posted by chief1richard

Was wondering what reduction you went with in height. Or did you stay with OEM height? Also what reduction in effort? If you went shorter in height, did you find that the arm rest pad interferes with your shifting?

Originally Posted by doughboy

Just to clarify, a short shifter INCREASES the shift effort. It decreases the shifter throw distance.

i.e. a -20% throw reduction will increase shift effort by +20%

If you also have a reduced height this decreases the effective throw and further increases effort.

I went for -20% throw and -10mm height, which works out about -23% throw overall.

But as I now have a Raceseng shift knob, that is a little taller than OE, so I'm about back at OE shift height.

Also, re armrest clash, that is more about your shoulder height as to whether your elbow hits the armrest, a lower shift knob will lower your hand and forearm a little but not your shoulder and elbow of course.

Doughboy summed it up nicely. The shorter throws will result in some increased effort, as will a shorter length shift rod. For the reduced throw, I believe I went with the middle one - about 30%. Ron offered anything from 10% to 45%. I had concerns about shift effort and smoothness. I was planning to get a slightly longer aftermarket shift knob, but instead, I asked Ron if he could actually make the shift rod longer than OEM. I believe mine is maybe 10mm taller than OEM. It was definitely an odd request, but it worked out perfectly for me. I'm using the OEM shift knob, and it feels great. I'd say there is about a ~25% increased effort getting started into a gear from neutral, but once you overcome that initial threshold, it's almost easier to slot into gear. You get used to it pretty quick. For me, I found the perfect balance of shorter throws and slightly increased shifting effort. Snickety snick!

I did try a couple of Raceseng knobs. IMO, their weighted shift knobs are too heavy; they numb the feel. I have their circuit series as well (lighter), and it's too tall. It also just doesn't feel as crisp and direct as the OEM knob. I'm guessing it's because of the threaded adapter you have to use, but I'm not sure. It's a shame; I really like their knobs, and they just came out with some fantastic leather knobs.

As for the armrest, you should have no issues with it, assuming you have no issues with it currently.

[flybigjet]

Sort of a related question:

For those of you doing this on a S55 M2C and changing shift knobs-- isn't the boot and the knob one piece?

If so, how did you deal with that to change knobs?

I'm going to do this after my 1200 break-in, but I'm looking at a ZDV knob to replace the OEM one.

Thanks--

R.

[RocketBoots]

Originally Posted by flybigjet

Sort of a related question:

For those of you doing this on a S55 M2C and changing shift knobs-- isn't the boot and the knob one piece?

If so, how did you deal with that to change knobs?

I'm going to do this after my 1200 break-in, but I'm looking at a ZDV knob to replace the OEM one.

Thanks--

R.

It's not just the S55; it's basically the F-series.

There's not an easy way to deal with this. You just have to fiddle with it to separate the boot from the knob. It's glued on, and there is a plastic ring you have to dislodge. You can pry it off, heat it, break it, etc. Just be slow and meticulous.

[flybigjet]

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

It's not just the S55; it's basically the F-series.

There's not an easy way to deal with this. You just have to fiddle with it to separate the boot from the knob. It's glued on, and there is a plastic ring you have to dislodge. You can pry it off, heat it, break it, etc. Just be slow and meticulous.

Thanks-- as long as it's doable.

And one last stupid question: I'm assuming that the S55 M2C OEM knob is NOT the same as the weighted ZHP one? They look pretty similar in pictures I've seen.

Again, Thanks.

R.

[RocketBoots]

It is definitely doable, and has been done by many

I could be wrong, but I believe it IS the same as the weighted ZHP knob. I had a ZHP shift knob before, and to my (terrible) memory, it looks/feels about the same. It seems BMW listened after all the complaining about the cheap, terrible E9X M3 shift knob.