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      10-21-2020, 09:21 PM   #67
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A big THANK YOU to 2020M2Competition for the TIS documents!!!
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      10-21-2020, 10:01 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
My second shot is asking what EXACTLY the install entails as they haven't done a SSK on an M2C yet and need that info to work up a price.
Not an exact step by step but maybe a helpful overview:
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      10-23-2020, 06:00 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzcp View Post
It took almost three hours and I paid $200.
Im in the quoting phase of this job and curious how a CA resident is getting a quote of 200 for 3 hours or work?!

I would have to assume the minimum shop rate around CA for a performance shop is at least 100 an hour...

Like the OP, i've just enquired PTech but no quote quite yet.

Are you in SoCal?
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      10-23-2020, 06:09 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketBoots View Post
The shop I used, which is the one Ron recommended in my area (Nor Cal), charged me about 2.5 hours of labor, I believe. They've done a number of SSK's from Ron. In all honesty, that's a very fair time estimate. If I tried to do it myself, without a lift, it would take me all day.
Mind sharing your quote with me? PM if you'd want. m2 - m3 may differ but out of curiosity, I'd like to know if you're willing
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      10-23-2020, 06:25 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByeFelicia View Post
Im in the quoting phase of this job and curious how a CA resident is getting a quote of 200 for 3 hours or work?!

I would have to assume the minimum shop rate around CA for a performance shop is at least 100 an hour...

Like the OP, i've just enquired PTech but no quote quite yet.

Are you in SoCal?
Yes I am in Socal. I was referred by Ron and I negotiated. How is that surprising? I am getting the CBC installed for $200 by another performance shop soon.
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      10-23-2020, 10:25 PM   #72
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Yes, 3 hours of labor for $200 in Cali is pretty amazing. I can't remember exactly how much I paid, but it was in the ~$350 range. I just remember I was quoted something higher, and I paid something lower because the shop had done so many of them.

It's honestly hard to gauge the time though, because there are often 2 guys working on the car at the same time.

I think the install is very similar across the F8X platforms: M2, M3, M4.
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      10-23-2020, 11:19 PM   #73
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If you need the referral to the shop in LA hit me up. Any doubt, ask Ron about the referral in LA. There are plenty of performance shops in Socal. You just need to negotiate and find the ones who are willing to take the job. Do you always pay what the shop is asking and never bargain?
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      10-24-2020, 01:10 AM   #74
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The issue isn't the complexity of the install, the issue is all of the parts you have to remove to get to it and all of the bolts that are single use - that adds up in terms of cost.
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      10-24-2020, 08:17 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
The issue isn't the complexity of the install, the issue is all of the parts you have to remove to get to it and all of the bolts that are single use - that adds up in terms of cost.
Which bolts are single-use? Do you have a list? I'll need to have them before I bring the car in as I'll be waiting while they do the install (shop is 90 min from me each way) and they're a performance shop, not a BMW-specific shop.

Here's what I have so far:

BMW shifter replacement parts
- 3 Hex bolts (26117527475)
- 3 Self-locking hex nut (26127536563)
- And a note saying that the flex disc can remain attached to front of driveshaft when removing (although I have no idea what that means or how it impacts parts required).

TIA--

Last edited by flybigjet; 10-24-2020 at 09:43 AM..
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      10-24-2020, 10:09 AM   #76
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We certainly didn't identify any single use parts when fitting it.
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      10-24-2020, 10:59 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzcp View Post
Yes I am in Socal. I was referred by Ron and I negotiated. How is that surprising? I am getting the CBC installed for $200 by another performance shop soon.
My second line about CA and the math of rates x hour of job is why I think it's surprising.

From what i've gathered, you've essentially negotiated 150 or so off unless the shops rate you've gone to is far less than 100 an hour. Which to me a typical performance car shop in CA, (socal or norcal) is wildly cheap if the rate is less than 100+ an hour. Perhaps theres a difference with south to north prices or the caliber of the shop.. maybe.

I did not ask Ron for suggestions of shops yet as I have a long standing history with Ptech and figured to ask them first. In terms of negotiating price, no I don't typically do that.
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      10-24-2020, 01:48 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
Which bolts are single-use? Do you have a list? I'll need to have them before I bring the car in as I'll be waiting while they do the install (shop is 90 min from me each way) and they're a performance shop, not a BMW-specific shop.

Here's what I have so far:

BMW shifter replacement parts
- 3 Hex bolts (26117527475)
- 3 Self-locking hex nut (26127536563)
- And a note saying that the flex disc can remain attached to front of driveshaft when removing (although I have no idea what that means or how it impacts parts required).

TIA--
Drive shaft bolts are single use, I can't remember what else was and since newtis is down I have to check ista for the data on what else is single use. Make sure you also check the torque spec page and extra notes on the bolts because some times the main instructions won't say to renew the bolts but the note section in the torque spec page will say to renew the bolt.
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      10-24-2020, 03:15 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
Which bolts are single-use? Do you have a list? I'll need to have them before I bring the car in as I'll be waiting while they do the install (shop is 90 min from me each way) and they're a performance shop, not a BMW-specific shop.

Here's what I have so far:

BMW shifter replacement parts
- 3 Hex bolts (26117527475)
- 3 Self-locking hex nut (26127536563)
- And a note saying that the flex disc can remain attached to front of driveshaft when removing (although I have no idea what that means or how it impacts parts required).

TIA--
You should be good to go with 3 sets of the above hardware. The only other thing that needed replaced when I did my install was the slave cylinder bolts. If you aren't swapping that out you won't need them. The torque spec for the driveshaft is 55 Nm + 90 degrees. Driveshaft bearing bolts are 19 Nm and trans x-member bolts/nuts are also 19 Nm.
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      10-24-2020, 05:54 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
Here's what I have so far:

BMW shifter replacement parts
- 3 Hex bolts (26117527475)
- 3 Self-locking hex nut (26127536563)
- And a note saying that the flex disc can remain attached to front of driveshaft when removing (although I have no idea what that means or how it impacts parts required).

TIA--
If the flex disc remains attached to the driveshaft, you will only need 3 hex bolts and 3 self locking nuts as listed above

If the driveshaft is removed from the flex disc and the flex disc remains attached to the transmission flange, you will only need 3 hex bolts and 3 self locking nuts as listed above

If the flex disc is removed from both the driveshaft and the transmission flange, then you should replace all 6 hex bolts and 6 self locking nuts

I also think it is a good idea to replace the following to avoid any exhaust leaks

The 2 exhaust gaskets (18307851168)

The 4 exhaust collar nuts (18307597650)

If you want to do everything "by the book" it is also recommended to replace the exhaust hanger nuts and bolts, but I think that is unnecessary and overkill unless your car was older and/or there is corrosion present
Attached Images
File Type: pdf TIS-TransmissionMountingTorqueSpecs.pdf (36.6 KB, 198 views)
File Type: pdf TIS-PropellerShaftTorqueSpecs.pdf (43.5 KB, 996 views)
File Type: pdf TIS-ExhaustMountsTorqueSpecs.pdf (34.5 KB, 72 views)
File Type: pdf TIS-ExhaustSystemTorqueSpecs.pdf (34.7 KB, 70 views)
File Type: pdf TIS-Reinforcement:Strut:SupportTorqueSpecs.pdf (39.8 KB, 170 views)
File Type: pdf TIS-UnderbodyPanelTorqueSpecs.pdf (33.9 KB, 66 views)
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      10-24-2020, 05:58 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHaze View Post
You should be good to go with 3 sets of the above hardware. The only other thing that needed replaced when I did my install was the slave cylinder bolts. If you aren't swapping that out you won't need them. The torque spec for the driveshaft is 55 Nm + 90 degrees. Driveshaft bearing bolts are 19 Nm and trans x-member bolts/nuts are also 19 Nm.
Good call on the slave cylinder bolts

Forgot about those

2 Hex bolts (07119907207)
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      10-24-2020, 06:05 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByeFelicia View Post
My second line about CA and the math of rates x hour of job is why I think it's surprising.

From what i've gathered, you've essentially negotiated 150 or so off unless the shops rate you've gone to is far less than 100 an hour. Which to me a typical performance car shop in CA, (socal or norcal) is wildly cheap if the rate is less than 100+ an hour. Perhaps theres a difference with south to north prices or the caliber of the shop.. maybe.

I did not ask Ron for suggestions of shops yet as I have a long standing history with Ptech and figured to ask them first. In terms of negotiating price, no I don't typically do that.
Ron knows the guys at P-Tech; solid group. I'd recommend getting the CDV removed/replaced at the same time. It will save on labor. You might as well do the UCP too, but you can do that yourself much more easily. No fancy equipment needed.
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      10-24-2020, 06:21 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByeFelicia View Post
My second line about CA and the math of rates x hour of job is why I think it's surprising.

From what i've gathered, you've essentially negotiated 150 or so off unless the shops rate you've gone to is far less than 100 an hour. Which to me a typical performance car shop in CA, (socal or norcal) is wildly cheap if the rate is less than 100+ an hour. Perhaps theres a difference with south to north prices or the caliber of the shop.. maybe.

I did not ask Ron for suggestions of shops yet as I have a long standing history with Ptech and figured to ask them first. In terms of negotiating price, no I don't typically do that.
Not a problem. I have gone to a quite a few shops in Socal. Some prefer to do certain jobs and not others. For example, suspension and alignment jobs, you'll get a discount if they can do both. CBC labor is cheaper with shops who rebuild and repair engines or tunes. I also found another reputable shop who charges $1200 for GTS Suvneer hood installed and painted. You just need to shop around. Good luck with your search
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      11-25-2020, 09:18 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2020M2Competition View Post
See attachments below for SSK
Very informative thread. And thank you for the documentation links.

Performing a DIY on shifter seemed possible until I read the propeller/drive-shaft TIS. That’s something I dont think I have the confidence to mess with.. yet. For anyone that has attempted to do this without removing the exhaust and driveshaft, was it a bloody knuckle issue, or simply impossible?

S
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Last edited by gandapanda; 11-25-2020 at 09:56 PM..
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      01-25-2021, 05:30 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzcp View Post
Ron also recommended a shop for me in the LA area. It took them also 2.5 hours to install. Hmu if you need the referral and price.
What shop did you end up taking your car to? Im thinking of switching out my 80a carrier arm bushing to a 75a bushing.
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      01-25-2021, 05:45 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by GeraldM2 View Post
What shop did you end up taking your car to? Im thinking of switching out my 80a carrier arm bushing to a 75a bushing.
Check your PM
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      01-26-2021, 01:32 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gandapanda View Post
Very informative thread. And thank you for the documentation links.

Performing a DIY on shifter seemed possible until I read the propeller/drive-shaft TIS. That’s something I dont think I have the confidence to mess with.. yet. For anyone that has attempted to do this without removing the exhaust and driveshaft, was it a bloody knuckle issue, or simply impossible?

S
A bit late but I did it without removing the driveshaft. Probably could have gotten away without removing the exhaust as well.

It took quite a bit of wiggle room but in the end I wiggled it out. I had some confidence in that my friend did the same on his M3 so he was sure that it's doable.
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      02-24-2021, 09:00 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpxchewy View Post
A bit late but I did it without removing the driveshaft. Probably could have gotten away without removing the exhaust as well.

It took quite a bit of wiggle room but in the end I wiggled it out. I had some confidence in that my friend did the same on his M3 so he was sure that it's doable.
Did you have your car on a lift, or were you able to do it without removing the driveshaft and still wiggle it out while the car was on jack stands?
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