[Really_fat_ninja]

Originally Posted by ///Monika

The angle of the photos throw it off slightly. The gap leading towards the hinges look pretty good (both sides) but the the front fenders and bumper need to come in just a tiny bit more to even things out. All adjustments were performed with just the 4 bolts holding the hood. Also note that the latche are not installed (the hood is just laying there). This will pull the hood down a bit more. I'm pretty confident that once all is said and done, the fitment will be spot on.

Looking forward to it

[///Monika]

I think we decided to go ahead and adjust this hood for fitment before it goes off to paint. We'll do that this weekend and upload more photos. Good news is we found a paint shop and they're pretty booked so we're waiting on scheduling.

Originally Posted by Really_fat_ninja

Looking forward to it

[Kazhul]

When we received the GTS hood, it had imperfections on the drivers edge, passenger rear corner and hood imperfections, we took care of all of this and color matched it. Cured for two months then apex PPF the hood with ceramic coating. The results were good I think. BMW standards are seam fitment. This was an 875 dollar aluminum hood so it was easy to correct.

[maddoc]

Originally Posted by Kazhul

When we received the GTS hood, it had imperfections on the drivers edge, passenger rear corner and hood imperfections, we took care of all of this and color matched it. Cured for two months then apex PPF the hood with ceramic coating. The results were good I think. BMW standards are seam fitment. This was an 875 dollar aluminum hood so it was easy to correct.

Man... I might have to bug you the next time I'm down around HR/VA Beach just to see in person.

[///Monika]

OK, final adjustments to the hood are done.

[1] Lowered drivers side hinge slightly (two 13mm bolts; ratchet wrench to reach) to match passenger side.
[2] Moved drivers side fender in (front two 10mm bolts) until proper gap met.
[3] Moved the bumper forward all the way (T30).
[4] Adjusted each latch until the it wouldn't catch then reversed 1 turn (counterclockwise).
[5] Made final adjustments to the 4 hood bolts until both sides were equal (13mm).

I'd also like to say, damn .. The view when sitting in the car ...

[SM2]

Originally Posted by ///Monika

OK, final adjustments to the hood are done.

[1] Lowered drivers side hinge slightly (two 13mm bolts; ratchet wrench to reach) to match passenger side.
[2] Moved drivers side fender in (front two 10mm bolts) until proper gap met.
[3] Moved the bumper forward all the way (T30).
[4] Adjusted each latch until the it wouldn't catch then reversed 1 turn (counterclockwise).
[4] Made final adjustments to the 4 hood bolts until both sides were equal (13mm).

I'd also like to say, damn .. The view when sitting in the car ...

Picture of the view from the inside?

[flybigjet]

Something I'm not clear on--

The opening at the base of the hood-- is it just an open grill? i.e when it rains or you wash the car, do you end up getting water and soap all over the engine bay?

That would seem..... unwise.

So, color me confused.

[Kazhul]

So there is a diverter plate that lets engine heat and air flow out and I don’t know if this was resolved with the 2020 M2CS version but I’m planning on buying it and installing it. Probably from the 2017 BMW M3 CS

[Johnsonuspp]

Do you have a link to what this diverter plate looks like.

[///Monika]

Sorry, hood is off the car and packed (ready to go to paint).

Originally Posted by SM2

Picture of the view from the inside?

[///Monika]

Yes, it's open and water would definitely drain just forward of the long intake tube. I'd say this hood isn't for everyone. For us, it's only driven on nice days and one would probably want to block off the panel during bath time.

Originally Posted by flybigjet

Something I'm not clear on--

The opening at the base of the hood-- is it just an open grill? i.e when it rains or you wash the car, do you end up getting water and soap all over the engine bay?

That would seem..... unwise.

So, color me confused.

[///Monika]

If one exists that would be great but anything BMW manufactured would probably not fit this hood. This was a question I asked on another thread, whether or not the vent has a BMW part number. It definitely doesn't. It was mentioned by another poster that he was going to have a block off plate 3D printed which would be great.

Originally Posted by Johnsonuspp

Do you have a link to what this diverter plate looks like.

[maddoc]

Originally Posted by ///Monika

OK, final adjustments to the hood are done.

[1] Lowered drivers side hinge slightly (two 13mm bolts; ratchet wrench to reach) to match passenger side.
[2] Moved drivers side fender in (front two 10mm bolts) until proper gap met.
[3] Moved the bumper forward all the way (T30).
[4] Adjusted each latch until the it wouldn't catch then reversed 1 turn (counterclockwise).
[5] Made final adjustments to the 4 hood bolts until both sides were equal (13mm).

The gap between the hood and fender on each side as it approaches the front of the car is less than ideal. Not sure if unbolting the fender and pulling the front in more would resolve that.

[///Monika]

The gaps on either side towards the front are uniform and seem wider in the photos for one reason. The rubber seal. This is forcing the lighter hood upward (higher) on either side. If I were to push down on the hood in these areas it looks great. Moving the fender forward any closer causes the nose of the fender (point) to almost touch the hood (def. not ideal).

When we first dialed the hood in (after adjusting the hinge), we removed the rubber seal then adjusted using the 4 bolts (hood). It looked great but the front of the hood was pretty low. Add the rubber seal back and you're back to adjusting those 4 bolts. It really throws the hood off. For those that are in the process or have already fitted the hood. You know exactly what I mean. It's as if this seal is fighting the hood. The latches only allow you to adjust for vertical height so far before they no longer latch.

Perhaps there's an additional adjustment we haven't tried yet that allows the edges of the front hood to relax or sit slightly lower. Would love to hear from others here.

Originally Posted by maddoc

The gap between the hood and fender on each side as it approaches the front of the car is less than ideal. Not sure if unbolting the fender and pulling the front in more would resolve that.

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by flybigjet

Something I'm not clear on--

The opening at the base of the hood-- is it just an open grill? i.e when it rains or you wash the car, do you end up getting water and soap all over the engine bay?

That would seem..... unwise.

So, color me confused.

Water will get in, however there is nothing dangerous about water getting in. Other than soap drying and leaving soap spots. I've power washed my engine bays in all my cars for the last 8 years with no issues. I just cover up the air filter before doing so.

[///Monika]

Quick question for everyone. Just heard back from the paint shop today. They want to blend the paint into the adjacent panels (fenders). This normally wouldn't be a problem but the car has PPF.

Does anyone know if the paint that's used on the car from the factory is also applied to the mirror covers ? These were removed from the car (replaced with CF) and are pretty much the only part that's not covered in PPF now. So I'm hoping they can use these to paint match too.

[maddoc]

Originally Posted by ///Monika

Quick question for everyone. Just heard back from the paint shop today. They want to blend the paint into the adjacent panels (fenders). This normally wouldn't be a problem but the car has PPF.

Does anyone know if the paint that's used on the car from the factory is also applied to the mirror covers ? These were removed from the car (replaced with CF) and are pretty much the only part that's not covered in PPF now. So I'm hoping they can use these to paint match too.

What do they need to blend? The car's Alpine white. That sounds like they're trying to charge you more or they screwed up on the paint mix.

[///Monika]

Yeah, I totally get they can charge more if they blend but it's just not going to happen. If they want to match I'll offer up the OEM mirror covers and they can match using the VIN (already provided) then the covers. Seems any reputable high end body shop should be able to match pretty close. Keep in mind they don't have the hood just yet (didn't want it just sitting there). I've been waiting for them to get back to me with a scheduled date to bring it in and they just now ask to blend.

Originally Posted by maddoc

What do they need to blend? The car's Alpine white. That sounds like they're trying to charge you more or they screwed up on the paint mix.

[ebisu8]

Originally Posted by maddoc

What do they need to blend? The car's Alpine white. That sounds like they're trying to charge you more or they screwed up on the paint mix.

Alpine White can look a bit different after some time in the sun. Understandable that the M2 is still fairly new, it still can be different. Blending is common to ensure it matches perfect.

[Anthony1s]

Yes, you can give them your mirrors to match. Alpine White has three paint codes

Alpine White 146
Alpine White II 218
Alpine White III 300

The M2 uses 300, I think.

There are a lot of complaints online of people not having success with matching resprays to OEM Alpine White. Some say there are different sub-variations within the paint codes. Others say it's due to the primer coats and way the paint is applied that gives variations (body shop not matching the same as OEM) And painters in general say white is the hardest to paint match because it reflects the most light.

Option I would take is to give them your mirror caps for a good base point. And ask them if it's possible to blend it afterwards, if the finished job doesn't match well enough for you.

If they can do that, then you don't have to remove/replace your PPF unless you really have to.

[///Monika]

Thank you for this ..

Since we plan on storing the original hood (pristine condition), I'd prefer that the fenders not be blended. Kind of feel like we'd end up with the opposite issue if/when returning the car to stock. So, I'm going to give them the mirror caps and let them have at it to achieve a match. Looks like were scheduled for Monday morning so I'll keep this thread updated.

Suvneer now has a hydro dipped Carbon Fiber vent insert which I ordered last weekend. Should be here Saturday so I'll take some detailed photos of this. Not sure what to expect, maybe good OR it might be crap. Hard to say so I'll let everyone else decide. Regardless, we're going to have the paint shop do a matte black finish on the vent that came with the hood.

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Yes, you can give them your mirrors to match. Alpine White has three paint codes

Alpine White 146
Alpine White II 218
Alpine White III 300

The M2 uses 300, I think.

There are a lot of complaints online of people not having success with matching resprays to OEM Alpine White. Some say there are different sub-variations within the paint codes. Others say it's due to the primer coats and way the paint is applied that gives variations (body shop not matching the same as OEM) And painters in general say white is the hardest to paint match because it reflects the most light.

Option I would take is to give them your mirror caps for a good base point. And ask them if it's possible to blend it afterwards, if the finished job doesn't match well enough for you.

If they can do that, then you don't have to remove/replace your PPF unless you really have to.

[larry.beck]

Strip the PPF from the original good, color match to that, and then store it. That's an easy piece to get PPF re-applied and that paint under there PPF is what you want matches.