[kingikra]

So I was at the track yesterday. It was quite hot (33 Celsius or 91.5 Fahrenheit). It was a blast and at one moment the white going out of fuel alert appeared. We've decided to do one more session and the fuel orange alert appeared. A minute later, a drivetrain error appeared (forgot to take a picture and can't see the error message on the video). What I felt from that moment is that I cannot hammer the car and it stays in high revs and a bit shaky as a result.

I've stopped the car and turned off the engine. Restarted the engine and the error/issue was gone. Obviously I've left the track to drive back home and refuel on the way.

I'm writing about the fuel alerts but I assume it can also be many other things like oil temperature, failing brakes or any other engine/drivetrain failures.

Did any of you ever encountered such issue?

Thanks

[kingikra]

Just wanted to add on top of the above whether it is relevant or not, after we have left the track, my brakes started making squeaking and wooshing noises.
Today I went to wash the car and found out that almost 24 hours of rest hadn't helped. The brakes are still making noises.
I read about bedding the brake. Not sure if it can help.

[kingikra]

Here are my rotors. Do you think they'll need to be replaced? I've touched these scratches. It is very smooth. They do not have any depth at all.

[grinchmas]

Originally Posted by kingikra

So I was at the track yesterday. It was quite hot (33 Celsius or 91.5 Fahrenheit). It was a blast and at one moment the white going out of fuel alert appeared. We've decided to do one more session and the fuel orange alert appeared. A minute later, a drivetrain error appeared (forgot to take a picture and can't see the error message on the video). What I felt from that moment is that I cannot hammer the car and it stays in high revs and a bit shaky as a result.

I've stopped the car and turned off the engine. Restarted the engine and the error/issue was gone. Obviously I've left the track to drive back home and refuel on the way.

I'm writing about the fuel alerts but I assume it can also be many other things like oil temperature, failing brakes or any other engine/drivetrain failures.

Did any of you ever encountered such issue?

Thanks

I've had this issue several times under a similar situation. I let the fuel run low and on exiting a turn I got the drivetrain malfunction. Pulling off and restarting the car fixed it. From what I understand the fuel pump isn't the most reliable with low fuel levels and performance driving so I just keep the tank topped up while I'm out and haven't hit it since!

Your rotors also look fine.. did you run dedicated track pads or the OEM ones? Sometimes after swapping back from track pads back to street pads I get some rough braking until the track material is scrapped off either via re-bedding or enough driving.

[kingikra]

Originally Posted by grinchmas

I've had this issue several times under a similar situation. I let the fuel run low and on exiting a turn I got the drivetrain malfunction. Pulling off and restarting the car fixed it. From what I understand the fuel pump isn't the most reliable with low fuel levels and performance driving so I just keep the tank topped up while I'm out and haven't hit it since!

Your rotors also look fine.. did you run dedicated track pads or the OEM ones? Sometimes after swapping back from track pads back to street pads I get some rough braking until the track material is scrapped off either via re-bedding or enough driving.

Yeah. sounds just about right concerning the fuel issue after reading a bit and your reply.

As for the brakes, I'm using OEM. I've tried re-bedding with no success. Seems like that the pads needs to be replaced.

Thanks!

[grinchmas]

If you were using OEM pads, they have been known to leave deposits after heavy use and getting too hot.. that might be worth investigating!

[CurryPuff]

With the brakes, do a few hard stops and see if it gets better. As said above, the pad material is probably stuck on and can take some time to come off

[kyrocks]

I wouldn't worry about the brakes if you are stopping normally. That sound is just Brake material residue from the brakes getting hot. I wouldn't worry about it. It will her better as you drive it normally but may not go away. No biggie.

[kingikra]

Today I did too short drives. The sound isn't going away and on heavy breaking the steering wheel shakes.
For me it sounds like pads but tomorrow morning I'll know better after driving to the service.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by kingikra

Today I did too short drives. The sound isn't going away and on heavy breaking the steering wheel shakes.
For me it sounds like pads but tomorrow morning I'll know better after driving to the service.

Those are pad deposits on our rotors. The reason your brakes are pulsing is from the uneven pad material on the rotors.

You need to get that off the rotor surface and then you should be good to go.

Fastest way to do that s find a back road with light, or no traffic run the car up to about 100 KPH then put your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas. Press down firmly on the brake pedal and add gas pedal to keep the car rolling same speed. Do 3-5 of these for at 7-10 seconds each. Let cool 15-20 seconds between cycles. That should get rid of the deposits and also bed your pads properly

[pruettfan]

Hard lessons here. First, you cannot run the M2 much under 1/2 a tank without having fuel starvation issues. This is not a minor problem in that if you read the manual it speaks to potential to do damage by running too low on fuel. Second, you simply cannot track an M2 with stock brake pads and fluid. OEM pads and fluid are great for street driving and some spirited driving in the hills but track conditions are really far too demanding for an OEM pad. Chances are you won't get that pad material off of those rotors. A buddy of mine did the same thing and $1,000 later he learned his lesson.

[kingikra]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

Hard lessons here. First, you cannot run the M2 much under 1/2 a tank without having fuel starvation issues. This is not a minor problem in that if you read the manual it speaks to potential to do damage by running too low on fuel. Second, you simply cannot track an M2 with stock brake pads and fluid. OEM pads and fluid are great for street driving and some spirited driving in the hills but track conditions are really far too demanding for an OEM pad. Chances are you won't get that pad material off of those rotors. A buddy of mine did the same thing and $1,000 later he learned his lesson.

Didn't know about the less than half fuel tank.
Drove the car to the service today. The car will stay there till tomorrow. They are replacing both front rotors and pads. The service inspector claimed that I have about 10% on the rotors.
BTW, I forgot to mention a very important info. When stopping from high speeds, on top of the noises, the steering wheel shakes quite badly.

I wish what some of you said was true and some bedding would have helped but it doesn't seem like the case here.

I have asked them to check the logs as well concerning the drivetrain issue.

Thanks

[kingikra]

BTW, if you're all saying that OEM pads are not for track days it means that was my last track day with the M2.
I have just ordered a new Cayman S. It'll arrive at Nov-Dec. With the prices here, I'll give up the non OEM pads and wait for the Porsche.

Just FYI, replacing front rotors and pads is 1500 USD here.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by kingikra

BTW, if you're all saying that OEM pads are not for track days it means that was my last track day with the M2.
I have just ordered a new Cayman S. It'll arrive at Nov-Dec. With the prices here, I'll give up the non OEM pads and wait for the Porsche.

Just FYI, replacing front rotors and pads is 1500 USD here.

You pretty much don't want OEM pads on any car for the track. Safety issue with brake fade.

[Got f1?]

Originally Posted by akkando

You pretty much don't want OEM pads on any car for the track. Safety issue with brake fade.

Is this true for M2C with larger brake setup? I ran my car last year at Mid-Ohio which has several high speed areas, up to 140mph for me, and my brakes did fine.

They do squeak in mild temps on the street but that seems to be characteristic of them anyway.

Certainly not saying dedicated pads and a fluid change aren't a good idea. Just wondering if it is the case for 2NH brakes.

I did upgrade fluid since it needed to be changed anyway.

[kingikra]

Originally Posted by akkando

You pretty much don't want OEM pads on any car for the track. Safety issue with brake fade.

So your saying that I'll need to replace the OEM pads in my cayman as well?

[kingikra]

Originally Posted by Got f1?

Is this true for M2C with larger brake setup? I ran my car last year at Mid-Ohio which has several high speed areas, up to 140mph for me, and my brakes did fine.

They do squeak in mild temps on the street but that seems to be characteristic of them anyway.

Certainly not saying dedicated pads and a fluid change aren't a good idea. Just wondering if it is the case for 2NH brakes.

I did upgrade fluid since it needed to be changed anyway.

Can't tell about the m2c but just mentioning that it was my third track day this year and after the first two, all was well.

[kingikra]

Got the car back today. Asked them to check the logs and they claim that all is right.
Brakes are OK.

[Dawido]

This error was casued by lack of fuel. When you don't have enought of fuel and going full throtle it is cutting the power for safety reasony. Anyway, pushing car to the limits with low fuel is so smart thought.

[kingikra]

Originally Posted by Dawido

This error was casued by lack of fuel. When you don't have enought of fuel and going full throtle it is cutting the power for safety reasony. Anyway, pushing car to the limits with low fuel is so smart thought.

Why isn't it smart? The fuel gauge had 43 kms to the end. A lap is 2.4 km. I wanted to do one or two more laps. I understand now that it is forbidden by the system but why isn't it smart? I understand that it can get me to no fuel at all but what other reasons are there?

[windnsea00]

Originally Posted by kingikra

Why isn't it smart? The fuel gauge had 43 kms to the end. A lap is 2.4 km. I wanted to do one or two more laps. I understand now that it is forbidden by the system but why isn't it smart? I understand that it can get me to no fuel at all but what other reasons are there?

As the fuel moves around high G forces the pump may suck in some air and/or overheat without enough fuel to cool it. Thus why the car threw an error code.

When hitting the track it's recommended:

1) Have at least 1/2 a tank of fuel if not more.
2) Depending on your skill level swapping factory brake pads for track pads and flushing the brake fluid replacing it with high-temp fluid is smart.

This doesn't matter if a BMW or Porsche or whatever else, just a common rule of thumb for track day driving.

[kingikra]

Originally Posted by windnsea00

As the fuel moves around high G forces the pump may suck in some air and/or overheat without enough fuel to cool it. Thus why the car threw an error code.

When hitting the track it's recommended:

1) Have at least 1/2 a tank of fuel if not more.
2) Depending on your skill level swapping factory brake pads for track pads and flushing the brake fluid replacing it with high-temp fluid is smart.

This doesn't matter if a BMW or Porsche or whatever else, just a common rule of thumb for track day driving.

I see. Thanks for that!
When I came to the track the fuel tank was full. After an hour and half the white fuel alert showed. Next time I'll rent the track for 2.5 hours and go to fill up fuel after an hour.