[m7ammed]

Ok so I'm planning on switching to track pads for track days and then switch to normal pads after. What tools should I have to be able to complete the job? I have the regular brakes (blue) and not the 2NH

What i have so far:

• Torque wrench
• Jack and jack stands
• maybe an impact wrench to make removing/reinstalling the wheels quicker

But I'm not sure what else I would need other than pads them self and what tools to remove the pins and clips. do I need some sort of paste which I've seen mentioned somewhere else?

[Megator]

Hammer, 8mm punch (not 100% sure on the size but a punch set will have one that fits), piston spreader or strong grip, small screw driver

Some kinda high temp grease for pad edges and backs.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nance/J7O1UV0e

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kes/1VnYPieLPV

[Caduceus]

Watch my video:

[m7ammed]

Originally Posted by Megator

Hammer, 8mm punch (not 100% sure on the size but a punch set will have one that fits), piston spreader or strong grip, small screw driver

Some kinda high temp grease for pad edges and backs.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nance/J7O1UV0e

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kes/1VnYPieLPV

Originally Posted by Caduceus

Watch my video:

Thanks guys very useful info

[m7ammed]

Originally Posted by Caduceus

Watch my video:

Just one question where do you zip tie the sensors on front and rear ? Any photos ?

[Caduceus]

Sorry no photos but you basically just double it back on itself.

[Megator]

Originally Posted by m7ammed

Just one question where do you zip tie the sensors on front and rear ? Any photos ?

I put tape over the "head" in order to retain the little spring clip in there and then taped the sensors to the suspension arms.

After a couple of trackdays the car says my pads will be gone in 14k km

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by Megator

I put tape over the "head" in order to retain the little spring clip in there and then taped the sensors to the suspension arms.

After a couple of trackdays the car says my pads will be gone in 14k km

Is there a possibility that the spring clip can fall out? I've had my sensors ziptied for like the last 20k miles and they're still there...

[m7ammed]

Would this trolley jack be sufficient? or would I need to have jack stands? I'm thinking that I would jack each corner from the side jack points anyway.

https://saudi.souq.com/sa-en/dato-tr...91318300363/u/

Punch tools
https://saudi.souq.com/sa-en/toptul-...02-37625845/i/

Torque wrench
https://saudi.souq.com/sa-en/toptul-...02-37625845/i/

[Megator]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Is there a possibility that the spring clip can fall out? I've had my sensors ziptied for like the last 20k miles and they're still there...

Yes 100% its in there pretty loosely. Not a big deal if you don't plan on using them. Lucky you that it stuck around I taped mine just in case as you need to buy the whole cable for $$$ if you loose it.

@m7ammed Never work on just a jack! Having said that I do it all the time but only to do wheels and pads, never ever if I am sticking my head under there. Throw a wheel under the car so that it catches the car if the jack were to fail. Better a damaged wheel than frame/suspension.

You didnt link to the punch tool. But this is what you need https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0751HCH..._t1_B003TO2JYY

I think 8mm was wrong and it is more like 4. I am doing pads tonight and will get back to you.

Torque wrench is fine but you will want an extension and/or deep 17mm socket for the bolts.

Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3701-.../dp/B003AMZNIY

Also this is nice as your jack has no rubber pad

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEDC-Slotte...omotive&sr=1-1

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by Megator

Yes 100% its in there pretty loosely. Not a big deal if you don't plan on using them. Lucky you that it stuck around I taped mine just in case as you need to buy the whole cable for $$$ if you loose it.

@m7ammed Never work on just a jack! Having said that I do it all the time but only to do wheels and pads, never ever if I am sticking my head under there. Throw a wheel under the car so that it catches the car if the jack were to fail. Better a damaged wheel than frame/suspension.

You didnt link to the punch tool. But this is what you need https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0751HCH..._t1_B003TO2JYY

I think 8mm was wrong and it is more like 4. I am doing pads tonight and will get back to you.

Torque wrench is fine but you will want an extension and/or deep 17mm socket for the bolts.

Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3701-.../dp/B003AMZNIY

Also this is nice as your jack has no rubber pad

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEDC-Slotte...ive&sr=1-1

Haha, I'll tape it up ASAP. I was kind of worried the tape would melt due to heat, but I suppose duct tape is tough enough to stand up to track temps behind the heat shield.

[m7ammed]

Originally Posted by Megator

Yes 100% its in there pretty loosely. Not a big deal if you don't plan on using them. Lucky you that it stuck around I taped mine just in case as you need to buy the whole cable for $$$ if you loose it.

@m7ammed Never work on just a jack! Having said that I do it all the time but only to do wheels and pads, never ever if I am sticking my head under there. Throw a wheel under the car so that it catches the car if the jack were to fail. Better a damaged wheel than frame/suspension.

You didnt link to the punch tool. But this is what you need https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0751HCH..._t1_B003TO2JYY

I think 8mm was wrong and it is more like 4. I am doing pads tonight and will get back to you.

Torque wrench is fine but you will want an extension and/or deep 17mm socket for the bolts.

Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3701-.../dp/B003AMZNIY

Also this is nice as your jack has no rubber pad

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEDC-Slotte...omotive&sr=1-1

Thanks for the input

this is the punch tool set, copied the wrong link before.

https://saudi.souq.com/sa-en/atd-too...21759800363/u/


Problem here is finding the equipment is a difficult job. This is another option of the jack

https://www.saco-ksa.com/jack-trolle...ockwrench.html

[Megator]

Originally Posted by m7ammed

Thanks for the input

this is the punch tool set, copied the wrong link before.

https://saudi.souq.com/sa-en/atd-too...21759800363/u/


Problem here is finding the equipment is a difficult job. This is another option of the jack

https://www.saco-ksa.com/jack-trolle...ockwrench.html

1st jack was better. I bought the rubber pads from Ebay and they came from China or something. Same thing for the socket.

Is importing into Saudi so difficult for these little things?

You can put a jackstand under the hub lip like in the linked video but I would never ever let that carry the full weight of the car.

1 the lip is not designed for that (common missconception), 2 it can slip of there very very easily.

[CosmosMpower]

Pretty sure M2C has a different procedure than blue brake M2, you can't just punch the two pins out and remove the pads.

[Megator]

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

Pretty sure M2C has a different procedure than blue brake M2, you can't just punch the two pins out and remove the pads.

Most of the ROW gets the blue caliper as standard and the silver as an option.

Silver is indeed a diff procedure where you need to remove the caliper in order to change pads.

One of the reasons I did not pick them as an option.

[m7ammed]

Originally Posted by Megator

1st jack was better. I bought the rubber pads from Ebay and they came from China or something. Same thing for the socket.

Is importing into Saudi so difficult for these little things?

You can put a jackstand under the hub lip like in the linked video but I would never ever let that carry the full weight of the car.

1 the lip is not designed for that (common missconception), 2 it can slip of there very very easily.

Its easy to import just sometimes customs+shipping might cost more than thing itself. so will have to look at all options. yeah the lip thing I'm not confident in doing lol. I will buy the pad for the first jack and some other stuff maybe to let it be worth it.

So let me summarize, I would get the first low profile jack with the jack pad. Left the car using the side mounting points (?). Pull the wheels off, pull the pads out like in the video wheel back on. I could buy jacks if that would help keep things more stable, but how would I get them under the jacking point while I'm using that to jack up the car?

Sorry if this seems like a simple thing, just want to make sure I have the right tools for the job plus the thing be safe without damaging the car. (I'm an engineer so I overthink stuff lol)

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

Pretty sure M2C has a different procedure than blue brake M2, you can't just punch the two pins out and remove the pads.

Originally Posted by Megator

Most of the ROW gets the blue caliper as standard and the silver as an option.

Silver is indeed a diff procedure where you need to remove the caliper in order to change pads.

One of the reasons I did not pick them as an option.

Indeed I have got the blue calipers which seem to be a blessing in disguise, as its lighter and easier to work with for I want to use.

[Megator]

Originally Posted by m7ammed

(I'm an engineer so I overthink stuff lol)

Me 2 so I know the feeling

That is how you can get it on jackstands. You can do front first then rear if you only want to buy 2 stands.

When I did my brakes I was lazy. I losend the wheel nuts on one side of the car (FR and RR wheels , do not do the other side! make sure the car is in park/gear with handbrake on or better yet use a block of wood to chock the wheels) and jacked from the front side jack point (with the rubber pad) till the rear wheel came off the ground. Then I removed the wheels etc.

The whole time the car was only on the jack. This is "wrong" but OK if you trust your jack, you dont go under the car, and you do not apply load in a way the car may slip off the jack. Again throw a wheel under there incase the worst happens.

The correct tools will make life easier and the job turn out better. The deep socket will help not scratch the wheels or bodywork (with the handle of the wrench). BTW a small 7mm socket on the back of the caliper pin helps seat it without damaging the paint.

[Got f1?]

Any special tool needed to compress the 6 piston calipers? (2NH)

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by Got f1?

Any special tool needed to compress the 6 piston calipers? (2NH)

There are, bu not worth it in my opinion. Most of the time I can push the pistons in with my fingers, and when I can't I use a round end of a wrench to push each piston individually.

[tux2005]

I can't speak from experience with the 2NH calipers but they probably are very similar to calipers on all BMWs in that they don't need to be rotated or anything like that to retract. I find usually I can push the pistons back in with my hands for the OG M2 brakes, it's only the last bit of the 4-piston calipers where I sometimes will use a pad spreader similar to:
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...d-pad-spreader

Sometimes I find pushing the pistons back the last little bit more difficult and the other pistons will end up pushing out, that's when that tool can be useful.

For the most part, I'll always try by hand first and it works 85-90% of the time. I do like having the tools available though for the times when they're a bit more difficult since having the right tool usually makes it so much easier.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by tux2005

I can't speak from experience with the 2NH calipers but they probably are very similar to calipers on all BMWs in that they don't need to be rotated or anything like that to retract. I find usually I can push the pistons back in with my hands for the OG M2 brakes, it's only the last bit of the 4-piston calipers where I sometimes will use a pad spreader similar to:
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...d-pad-spreader

Sometimes I find pushing the pistons back the last little bit more difficult and the other pistons will end up pushing out, that's when that tool can be useful.

For the most part, I'll always try by hand first and it works 85-90% of the time. I do like having the tools available though for the times when they're a bit more difficult since having the right tool usually makes it so much easier.

Personally I just use a flathead between the pad and the rotor before removing a pad (carefully, as I make sure to keep the tool as flat as possible in order to not leave any gouges in the rotor). This pushes the pistons on one side all the way out, and I slot in the new one. Repeat for the other pad.