[timchump]

the car is new to me, just over 1 month old.

the only indication i believe i have of how it was uses is:
it still has the original pilot super sports tyres, the tyre manufacturer date was 2019 same as the car reg date.
the fronts have 6mm of tread on the and rear 4mm, i dont think it has been on many track days...
MPG is 19mpg
the car was purchased from a London dealership

my guess it has been mostly used as a city commuting car

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by timchump

the car is new to me, just over 1 month old.

the only indication i believe i have of how it was uses is:
it still has the original pilot super sports tyres, the tyre manufacturer date was 2019 same as the car reg date.
the fronts have 6mm of tread on the and rear 4mm, i dont think it has been on many track days...
MPG is 19mpg
the car was purchased from a London dealership

my guess it has been mostly used as a city commuting car

I'd say if the brakes are working fine, the OBC says many 1000's of miles to go yet, then they're good to go.

Presume it's had an MOT? They check disc and pad condition and would put an advisory on it if they had any concerns (of fail if they were very poor).

[timchump]

yes mot is fine

picture of my health check
im never going to these guys again i don't care that they're next door

[doughboy]

I see you're South West, there seem to be some good indies there.

https://the-bmw-specialist-register....mw-specialist/

Really you'll get such a better job from a good Indy, checks reviews etc.

[timchump]

Originally Posted by doughboy

I see you're South West, there seem to be some good indies there.

https://the-bmw-specialist-register....mw-specialist/

Really you'll get such a better job from a good Indy, checks reviews etc.

Thanks just spoke to another independent, they said the minimum disc width is the point when they cannot be reused so advised waiting until the pads are worn and getting it all done then
They also went into detail on the bonus scheme mechanics at bmw get for getting new work in on tyres and brakes etc

[jordantii]

Originally Posted by Maynard

My god, 3 pages of 'how cheap can I get with my maintenance' on an M-car. Just sell it so that somebody who really cares can take her in and start to treat her right.

Troll post...

[timchump]

Originally Posted by jordantii

Troll post...

i like the way he says somebody who can take care of her

i genuinely think this man will gladly spend $5k every 25k on a brake service to take care of his princess


if that's what the BMW sales man says then sure why not

[jordantii]

Originally Posted by timchump

i like the way he says somebody who can take care of her

i genuinely think this man will gladly spend $5k every 25k on a brake service to take care of his princess


if that's what the BMW sales man says then sure why not

Exactly!

[SSJAR]

Just picked up a 20' M2 Comp with 55K miles. Pads are okay but rotors failed my state inspection coming in at 34.36mm and not making the 34.4mm required minimum. After a bit of hand wringing I figured time to just suck it up at get new rotors...

Wanted to go OEM so picked up 4 new rotors (figured I would just do all at the same time) 2 new wear sensors, 8 rotor screws (front and back are different) and then 8 new caliper bolts.

Paid about $1560 for the 4 rotors. I could have picked up maybe for a few bucks less but I bought from FCP Euro which will replace for free when they wear out. I have done that in the past and it pays for itself.

Paid about $135 for the sensors, bolts and screws in total.

For the pads I was planning on going with EBC Redstuff (really just wanted to try them out as I have never used them before) but the rear pads were no where to be found and backordered until January at the earliest.

With no EBC's, went ahead and ordered Carbotech 1521's. Will give them a shot, they seem to get decent reviews.

Rotors and pads on M cars are very straightforward, replaced them on previous M3 and M5 with no issues. Looks like the M2 is exactly the same. For those that might be a little hesitant, there are a lot of guides out there on the step by step process.

[doughboy]

Interesting it failed on rotor thickness when even bmw say being under thickness just means can't reuse come pad change time.

Seems your state inspectors are overdoing it a bit. 0.04mm under if it was a warmer day they'd probably have passed...

Anyhow, good effort on changing your own, i did mine but the rotor screws were all seized solid. I had to drill them out and clear it up with a tap.

[MooMooM2]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Interesting it failed on rotor thickness when even bmw say being under thickness just means can't reuse come pad change time.

Seems your state inspectors are overdoing it a bit. 0.04mm under if it was a warmer day they'd probably have passed...

Anyhow, good effort on changing your own, i did mine but the rotor screws were all seized solid. I had to drill them out and clear it up with a tap.

inspection probably done at BMW dealer lol they probably want to sell rotors.

I am getting some new rotors, they are at 33.8 lol, no way I will let it go till the pads finish. Ferrodo 1.11 definitely eat these up but just gonna do FCP euro and get free rotors for life. I dunno how they get away with this

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

inspection probably done at BMW dealer lol they probably want to sell rotors.

I am getting some new rotors, they are at 33.8 lol, no way I will let it go till the pads finish. Ferrodo 1.11 definitely eat these up but just gonna do FCP euro and get free rotors for life. I dunno how they get away with this

Yeah, that's the main reason i never take any vehicle to a brand dealer for its annual inspection.

Is an open invitation for them to sell you parts you don't need.

Seems these 2nh discs don't last too well.

[SSJAR]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

inspection probably done at BMW dealer lol they probably want to sell rotors.

I am getting some new rotors, they are at 33.8 lol, no way I will let it go till the pads finish. Ferrodo 1.11 definitely eat these up but just gonna do FCP euro and get free rotors for life. I dunno how they get away with this

I did not take it to the dealership for inspection, but to to a local inspection shop.

I think the only reason they are so tight is that they don't want to lose the state inspection certification. Seems that having that certification is an easy way to make a few buck for very little work.

Also, did the front rotors last night and sure enough the 4 hex bolts holding the rotor on where seized up. Never seen anything like that. Since I had seen the posts about it prior to starting the work, I used PB Blaster from both the front side and backside of the rotor (gave plenty of time to penetrate). Even applied a slight bit of heat. All with no luck, none would budge. Drilled them out, and even tried an extractor when I was able to get a ton of bite, but no luck.

Was able to get the new rotors on just so I can pass inspection, and this weekend will tap( I though I had an M8x1.25 tap, but I was wrong ).

Thanks Dougboy for the previous posts on drilling it out, probably saved me a good amount of time messing around. Although if I had the stud conversion I might not even worry about drilling them out, but then again my OCD would probably get the best of me....

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by SSJAR

Paid about $1560 for the 4 rotors. I could have picked up maybe for a few bucks less but I bought from FCP Euro which will replace for free when they wear out. I have done that in the past and it pays for itself.

Paid about $135 for the sensors, bolts and screws in total.

For the pads I was planning on going with EBC Redstuff (really just wanted to try them out as I have never used them before) but the rear pads were no where to be found and backordered until January at the earliest.

With no EBC's, went ahead and ordered Carbotech 1521's. Will give them a shot, they seem to get decent reviews.

You paid too much because with 1521's you'll never wear out the rotors...

[SSJAR]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

You paid too much because with 1521's you'll never wear out the rotors...

That would be great, if I ever have to take out those front rotor screws again, it will be too soon, LOL.

[MooMooM2]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Yeah, that's the main reason i never take any vehicle to a brand dealer for its annual inspection.

Is an open invitation for them to sell you parts you don't need.

Seems these 2nh discs don't last too well.

I mean I have 30k on the car and past 5k is all with race pads full time, probably about 10 track days so I think thats not too bad.

Originally Posted by SSJAR

I did not take it to the dealership for inspection, but to to a local inspection shop.

I think the only reason they are so tight is that they don't want to lose the state inspection certification. Seems that having that certification is an easy way to make a few buck for very little work.

Also, did the front rotors last night and sure enough the 4 hex bolts holding the rotor on where seized up. Never seen anything like that. Since I had seen the posts about it prior to starting the work, I used PB Blaster from both the front side and backside of the rotor (gave plenty of time to penetrate). Even applied a slight bit of heat. All with no luck, none would budge. Drilled them out, and even tried an extractor when I was able to get a ton of bite, but no luck.

Was able to get the new rotors on just so I can pass inspection, and this weekend will tap( I though I had an M8x1.25 tap, but I was wrong ).

Thanks Dougboy for the previous posts on drilling it out, probably saved me a good amount of time messing around. Although if I had the stud conversion I might not even worry about drilling them out, but then again my OCD would probably get the best of me....

ugh mine are definitely going to be seized. I would check the caliper pins as well, my rear ones seized and had to be cut out. Pretty common on these brembos apparently. But yeah I am prepared to drill my hex bolts out, zero chance they will just pop out.

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by SSJAR

That would be great, if I ever have to take out those front rotor screws again, it will be too soon, LOL.

Yeah sure. I put nickel based anti seize paste (what they use on jet engine exhaust fasteners apparently) on the thread and just nipped them up gently by hand..

Hopefully the next owner will thank me...

[MooMooM2]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Yeah sure. I put nickel based anti seize paste (what they use on jet engine exhaust fasteners apparently) on the thread and just nipped them up gently by hand..

Hopefully the next owner will thank me...

yeah i can't believe people are installing these dry (and I guess same with the caliper pins) with this being a known issue. And specially with those bolts that don't even need to be in there, any grease will do a better job than dry

[Brandt51]

They’re the best. I looked at the 2NH rotors and I said, ‘look, these are the best’.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Initial bite is good IMO, and the linear pad is much preferred to progressive.

No need to prep the rotors at all, and no need for a bed-in, just 300 easy CITY miles and you're done. They basically bed themselves in properly as long as they aren't overheated, so make sure NOT to do a traditional bed-in.

Have you had any issues with bite in rain / cooler conditions? I'm really happy with the CT 1521 except when it rains. The initial bite is basically zero and you have to really slam the pedal to get anything until there's heat in them or the water gets pushed off or whatever is happening. Once you do it's fine for a while, but if you cruise on the highway and the brakes get cool and wet again, it gets a little iffy.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by chris719

Have you had any issues with bite in rain / cooler conditions? I'm really happy with the CT 1521 except when it rains. The initial bite is basically zero and you have to really slam the pedal to get anything until there's heat in them or the water gets pushed off or whatever is happening. Once you do it's fine for a while, but if you cruise on the highway and the brakes get cool and wet again, it gets a little iffy.

Interesting. That wasn't my experience at all. They were just like all the other ceramic pads I've had, which was the same or grippier when wet. Admittedly though, I didn't drive the car a lot in rain. I do wish I had them back every time I wash my car with CCB's, as they have NO GRIP at all for a moment, then bad grip until pumped 5 times, then the grip never gets great. Driving in the rain is positively harrowing. The 1521 was much preferred.

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by chris719

Have you had any issues with bite in rain / cooler conditions? I'm really happy with the CT 1521 except when it rains. The initial bite is basically zero and you have to really slam the pedal to get anything until there's heat in them or the water gets pushed off or whatever is happening. Once you do it's fine for a while, but if you cruise on the highway and the brakes get cool and wet again, it gets a little iffy.

That doesn't sound right, doesn't M2c (like most cars) have auto brake drying?