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      08-25-2017, 04:21 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Installed mine with no cutting. If positioned right, you should have no rubbing.
Have you only done it at the front ?
No issue with the back rotors ?
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      08-25-2017, 05:08 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Installed mine with no cutting. If positioned right, you should have no rubbing.
Have you only done it at the front ?
No issue with the back rotors ?
Rear rotors are fine temperature wise
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      08-26-2017, 12:46 AM   #47
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Quote:
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Rear rotors are fine temperature wise
I burnt mine, I don't understand how it is possible...
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      08-26-2017, 06:36 AM   #48
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Rear rotors are fine temperature wise
I burnt mine, I don't understand how it is possible...
Are you tracking your car with traction control on?
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      08-27-2017, 01:43 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by OLO-M2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Rear rotors are fine temperature wise
I burnt mine, I don't understand how it is possible...
Are you tracking your car with traction control on?
Sport+

Would that explain ? Why/how ?
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      08-27-2017, 02:46 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLO-M2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by OLO-M2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Rear rotors are fine temperature wise
I burnt mine, I don't understand how it is possible...
Are you tracking your car with traction control on?
Sport+

Would that explain ? Why/how ?
Depending on how aggressively you're driving, DSC, even in MDM, hammers the rear brakes. I would go through stock pads twice as quickly than my fronts. Race pads alleviated that to some degree.
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      08-27-2017, 03:18 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKevM5 View Post
Race pads alleviated that to some degree.
I only drive with race pads in track, and the first time was rather aggressive indeed !

I should perhaps (dare) drive(ing) it with DSC totally off, but a friend of mine already sent his car to the body repairman last time he did with too much enthusiasm ;-)
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      08-29-2017, 11:48 PM   #52
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Hey Twt.

Would you be able to provide more info or pics on how you have the ducting connecting/blowing air into the caliper/disc area?

I'm trying to do this without buying expensive protection plates that have direct mounting for air ducting.

Thanks.
I modified a 3 inch flange, per another post, and bolted it to the back of the caliper:
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      09-05-2017, 10:29 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLO-M2 View Post
Sport+

Would that explain ? Why/how ?
IMO, definitely! Rear brake engagement during the few laps I've run with any DSC on has been pretty bad, and I've felt pad transfer after a single hot lap. I have a high speed, flat corner at my local track that is high enough on pucker factor that DSC poses more risk that benefit. I committed to just running DSC off on my second lap in this car and in an M2 it's easy to do!
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      02-18-2018, 05:06 PM   #54
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Installed the 997 "ducts" today but they don't actually sit in any air flow (like they do on a 996/997)...are we sure they are actually doing anything?



Did everyone also cut the brake rotor shield to allow more air? When I checked, there's already a gap (albeit not a big one) which should allow air to flow to the inside of the rotor...

Did anyone cut/trim the bottom of tray to allow for more air-flow to hit the duct?

Either way, don't think its going to do any harm...just don't know how effective they will be
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      02-18-2018, 05:41 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Installed the 997 "ducts" today but they don't actually sit in any air flow (like they do on a 996/997)...are we sure they are actually doing anything?



Did everyone also cut the brake rotor shield to allow more air? When I checked, there's already a gap (albeit not a big one) which should allow air to flow to the inside of the rotor...

Did anyone cut/trim the bottom of tray to allow for more air-flow to hit the duct?

Either way, don't think its going to do any harm...just don't know how effective they will be
I did cut a hole in the protection plate.

In my "scientific" testing over 25 track days last year, the air spoilers did hold off fade into hard sessions by about 5-min longer. The brakes also seemed to cool off quicker if you backed off half a lap when hot.

I would still always get fade after 20-min, tho, so I just installed the AP Racing factory BBK to deal with longer sessions and open track days. Should solve the fade issue.

My front OEM calipers were toast. Nearly black colored and had a sticking piston from dust boot trash.
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      02-18-2018, 05:54 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZM2 View Post
I did cut a hole in the protection plate.
Just curious...how did you do this? Did you pull everything off the car and do it the proper way?
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      02-18-2018, 06:08 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lax01 View Post
Just curious...how did you do this? Did you pull everything off the car and do it the proper way?
My shop actually did the work. Youíll see several pics on the first page of this thread. They didnít pull everything off so the plate looks a little gnarly, but itís effective.
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      02-19-2018, 12:20 PM   #58
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I just did a straight cut in the heatshields and folded it away on either side of the cut, like two triangles sort of
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      02-19-2018, 01:59 PM   #59
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Odd - your undertray also looks different...is this a 2016? Is the duct actually in the airflow under the car?
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      02-20-2018, 01:55 PM   #60
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Quote:
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Odd - your undertray also looks different...is this a 2016? Is the duct actually in the airflow under the car?
Yes
And
Yes

:-)

Don't know of any differences though.
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      02-24-2018, 12:43 PM   #61
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Anecdotal evidence at best...but with 997GT3 "ducts", RS29s and SRF...I didn't experience any fade after almost 150-170 miles on track yesterday

Holy fuck, the gas tank in this car is smalll
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      02-24-2018, 07:04 PM   #62
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I was thinking of doing this, cut out 2 holes in the under panel. Next, bolt on 2 of these NACA ducts then use the brake ducting hose to connect to the brake cooling backing plates.

View post on imgur.com


View post on imgur.com


Problem is that no one sells this for the F87 M2 in the US. Does anyone know if there's any room for ducting above that under panel?

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/Pe...RoC8BoQAvD_BwE
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      02-24-2018, 07:37 PM   #63
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I contemplated this but absolutely no room unless you want the undertray to scrape asphalt. Went with this. Works incredibly well!!! DIY Brake Duct Project https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1404878
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      08-30-2018, 09:49 AM   #64
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I m resurecting this post but does anyone have tested this solution :
http://www.revozport.com/f8x/rzp-bra...it.html#popup1

looks great but not sure if compatible :
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      08-30-2018, 01:02 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xchange43 View Post
I m resurecting this post but does anyone have tested this solution :
http://www.revozport.com/f8x/rzp-bra...it.html#popup1

looks great but not sure if compatible :

Looks great, but $690? Someone needs to come out with a simple non-extreme material kit that's less than $250. I'll buy that one.
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      08-30-2018, 05:54 PM   #66
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That will fit
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