[Infamus]

placed my order today...

[CTSean]

Originally Posted by Infamus

placed my order today...

just a couple tips from my installation:

The trunk weatherstrip doesn't have to come off. It's a nightmare to put back on.

The side carpeting doesn't have to be fully removed either. With all the fasteners removed except the one or two up behind the rear seat, I was able to pull it out of the way with plenty of room to do the work.

I followed this video and it went well other than the 2 comments above

[Daytona_550]

I installed the ASD harness a couple of days ago. Very easy to do. I followed the instructions on the video (posted earlier on this thread) and was done in about 20 minutes. Much quieter cabin and a big improvement, in my opinion.

[Malakas]

Originally Posted by RichardInVenice

any sign of the high-pitch sounds that others have complained about when doing it only via the app?

I coded mine off as well via Bimmerlink app... and I have not heard a high pitched whine at all...

[mcvaughan]

Harness FTW. Easy install and works well.

[m20e3087]

I had ordered it in January, and completely forgot about it, finally installed it today wow what a difference. Highly recommended. Super easy install on my M2C.

[3t3p]

I'm sure there's a pro and con here but can't remember?

Am I better off coding it out and in the process getting familiar with coding or physically hard wiring-out the ASD noise?

I want to give it a try to see what it brings
.
Thanks.

[particulardude]

I read some things here about wonky speaker issues following the coding option.



DIY install of the harness was very easy.

[detroitm2]

Get the harness. It's cheap and avoids any issues with audio quality.

[DanG]

Harness is permanent and coding can be wiped out with a software update.

[jkoral]

Originally Posted by 3t3p

I want to give it a try to see what it brings.

If you just want to try it, you can pull a fuse and see how the car sounds (it disables all audio). I took mine on a neighborhood loop with ASD and audio turned off and then pulled the fuse and drove the same loop.

I then ordered the harness.

[detroitm2]

Originally Posted by DanG

Harness is permanent and coding can be wiped out with a software update.

Permanent is a harsh term here. It can always be taken off

But yeah, it wont get wiped out with a software update as Dan mentioned.

[ried]

Harness only required for 2016. Coding turns ASD off in 2017 and newer model year M2s.

Results are identical.

[mr_lab_rat]

I believe the cost is about the same and coding can do other good stuff (like disabling the stupid iDrive legal warning screen on startup)

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by ried

Harness only required for 2016. Coding turns ASD off in 2017 and newer model year M2s.

Results are identical.

Came here to say this.

I personally did both just for good measure. I really hate ASD if you couldn't already tell.

[flybigjet]

I've spent the last week reading here since I decided to go with a 2020 M2C.

I thought I'd read somewhere that the ASD delete harness had to be rewired as two wires were crossed and it was messing up the sound from the audio system?

Still a problem? Or problem solved?

TIA--

R.

[Poochie]

I would just code out ASD instead of using a physical bypass.

The harness or pulling the fuse causes the vehicle to throw a fault shadow code within ISTA+, which any dealer would be able to see and it also prevents them from completing any necessary programming, until it is removed.

Coding doesn't product any such faults because it's just basically telling the computer you chose to switch it off, which the vehicle is designed to allow.

[bri1042]

So, I did a bunch of digging and research before restarting my audio project over the last couple of weeks. I wanted to be sure what the ASD module was doing since many of have noted both a boost in bass with it coded out but still inline, and some less than stellar clarity with it inline.

I found some older posts based on Technic's thoughts about the ASD module (not from a post by Technic, but someone who claimed they talked to him about it...so I didn't take it as gospel without actually verifying the info in my car). It isn't "boosting bass" as I thought it was at one point, it's lightly amplifying the signal from 2.8 volts to 8 volts going into the amps (for 2-series HK and Hifi on everything else). It sounds like a bass boost because the low-end benefits more from it than the high-end does.

8 volts input is at the very top of what most amps will accept for input, so if the input sensitivity on the amp isn't all the way to the bottom (or close to it), it'll cause clipping or at least a bit of a hum. On the other hand, 2.8 volts is really low, so input sensitivity would have to be set quite high, if not all the way to the far end of the control.

I dug out my multi-meter for setting the input sensitivity on my DSP and sub amp and I was able to confirm what I'd found (with ASD coded off). 2.8 volts with the bypass cable, 8 volts without it. So that's what the ASD module is doing for the system, boosting the input voltage to the amp to make up for the low output power on the amp.

With the input sensitivity set correctly for a 2.8 volt input and for an 8 volt input to my UP 7BMW DSP/Amp, there was no unpleasant sound at either voltage (though the available volume was lower at 2.8 volts). With the ASD module inline with the stock amp, there is some unhappy noise, as many of us have noted. As it doesn't have a setting for input sensitivity that we can access, the choice with the stock amp is to accept some system noise at 8 volts, or accept lower available volume with cleaner sound at 2.8 volts with the bypass cable.

For my setup, I actually skipped the bypass cable and just set the input sensitivity correctly this time. Less wire mess.

[3t3p]

My car is 2016 if makes any difference?

Seems you have to pull boot lining down to get at the location?

[bri1042]

It won't make a difference. Yes, you need to pop several plastic expanding rivets and then pull out the lining, and the metal hook thing on the floor. Putting the lining back in generally involves pulling the plastic trim piece off of where the trunk comes down. Some folk have figured out how to not pull that piece out, but I haven't ever managed it. Dive in and after you've done it once it takes about 15 minutes to get the lining out and back in. Not much time at all.

[3t3p]

Thanks.

[bri1042]

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_9518

The plastic rivets are every where that's labeled with a "2". It's easy to not see the one up at top if you don't happen to look in the right place with sufficient light. The metal hook thingy is 5 and 6 (easy to remove with a large allen wrench after you pop the plastic cap off). There's also the plastic hook labeled "3". That fella is a bit annoying as you have to get something really thin under the rivet to pop it out.