[Poffman]

My buddy and I did a little brake upgrade to the m2 this weekend. I hadn't done pads or lines before so he showed me how it's done. Hope this video helps some of you out, I can't believe the difference the carbon ceramic pads and stainless lines made.

[Bee Pee]

Good and clear.

Shame matey didn't include wear sensor in the pad swap part of the video.

[omasou]

Excluding the rear. Has anyone changed only pads?

I always change the rotors with the pads. Too much work to go back in a few months later.

[Poffman]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Good and clear.

Shame matey didn't include wear sensor in the pad swap part of the video.

Thanks for the callout

The sensor is super simple! Needle nose pliers and kind of rock it gently back and forth. You don't want to hit the actual sensor (you can see a bump where the sensor is). There's also one on the driver front which you remove and replace the same way.

[Poffman]

Originally Posted by omasou

Excluding the rear. Has anyone changed only pads?

I always change the rotors with the pads. Too much work to go back in a few months later.

The pad swap could be done in an hour or two, the hardest part is jacking up the car and taking the wheels off I think.

The stainless lines adds the complexity mostly from the bleeding but they help a lot.

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by Poffman

The pad swap could be done in an hour or two, the hardest part is jacking up the car and taking the wheels off I think.

The stainless lines adds the complexity mostly from the bleeding but they help a lot.

Nice video. One thing I found that helps doing the front calipers is turn wheels to left when working on right front, and right when working on left front, to give more room to access calipers. Also some Track Pads like Pagids don't have sensor slots. I zip tie the sensor and wire to suspension for when I switch back to street pads. Using side of punch to hammer back pins is something I never thought of. Thanks for posting.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Poffman

The pad swap could be done in an hour or two, the hardest part is jacking up the car and taking the wheels off I think.

The stainless lines adds the complexity mostly from the bleeding but they help a lot.

Really ? M cars come with Kevlar oem flexi hoses that supposed to be equivalent of SS in terms of preventing any bulging & associated ropey pedal feel

[bentom2]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Really ? M cars come with Kevlar oem flexi hoses that supposed to be equivalent of SS in terms of preventing any bulging & associated ropey pedal feel

I noticed a much firmer pedal and higher engagement point after changing to braided lines. I was skeptical as I had read similar things about the OE lines, but figured it wasn’t much added effort since I was bulling the calipers to rebuild anyhow, so went for it.

[Poffman]

Originally Posted by chief1richard

Nice video. One thing I found that helps doing the front calipers is turn wheels to left when working on right front, and right when working on left front, to give more room to access calipers. Also some Track Pads like Pagids don't have sensor slots. I zip tie the sensor and wire to suspension for when I switch back to street pads. Using side of punch to hammer back pins is something I never thought of. Thanks for posting.

Thanks! Appreciate the tip on turning the wheel, makes sense. Glad you liked it.

Originally Posted by bentom2

I noticed a much firmer pedal and higher engagement point after changing to braided lines. I was skeptical as I had read similar things about the OE lines, but figured it wasn't much added effort since I was bulling the calipers to rebuild anyhow, so went for it.

Same here, I am super happy with the pedal feel. I noticed a definitive difference with the change to the stoptech lines.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by bentom2

I noticed a much firmer pedal and higher engagement point after changing to braided lines. I was skeptical as I had read similar things about the OE lines, but figured it wasn’t much added effort since I was bulling the calipers to rebuild anyhow, so went for it.

That typically happens just by bleeding/re-bleeding the BF TBF.

When I switched to Castrol SRF, pedal was & still is firmer and pedal linearity/modulation felt/ & still feels better. TBH, it maybe placebo but then again pedal/brake responses stay way more consistent on track, as one would expect with upgraded BF, even with std flexi hoses.

[bentom2]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

That typically happens just by bleeding/re-bleeding the BF TBF.

When I switched to Castrol SRF, pedal was & still is firmer and pedal linearity/modulation felt/ & still feels better. TBH, it maybe placebo but then again pedal/brake responses stay way more consistent on track, as one would expect with upgraded BF, even with std flexi hoses.

I’ve been running SRF since I picked up the car late June of last year, and Pagids since July of 2018. The switch to braided lines was in June of this year, and I had at least 20 track days and two SRF to SRF fluid flushes prior. I was running 3 month old SRF and had several days on track in those three months without any signs of a soft pedal, and the pedal feel was consistent throughout, so I doubt there was any air from the previous bleed.

So I had plenty of seat time before, and a consistent pedal feel through multiple pad and fluid changes before, and now have had several months of consistent feel after. They’re just different.

I’ll add that I’m not even sure I like the current pedal feel and have considered switching back. It’s a bit harder to modulate and smoothly transition on/off the brakes because of the high, firm pedal. I’m mostly used to it, but have definitely had to adjust.

You don’t have to believe me, but I won’t accept the placebo or fresh bleed explanations.

[Daytona_550]

No anti-seize on the rear sides of the pads?

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by bentom2

I’ve been running SRF since I picked up the car late June of last year, and Pagids since July of 2018. The switch to braided lines was in June of this year, and I had at least 20 track days and two SRF to SRF fluid flushes prior. I was running 3 month old SRF and had several days on track in those three months without any signs of a soft pedal, and the pedal feel was consistent throughout, so I doubt there was any air from the previous bleed.

So I had plenty of seat time before, and a consistent pedal feel through multiple pad and fluid changes before, and now have had several months of consistent feel after. They’re just different.

I’ll add that I’m not even sure I like the current pedal feel and have considered switching back. It’s a bit harder to modulate and smoothly transition on/off the brakes because of the high, firm pedal. I’m mostly used to it, but have definitely had to adjust.

You don’t have to believe me, but I won’t accept the placebo or fresh bleed explanations.

Thanks for honest critique. Even before I read yr post, I wasn't convinced abt braided hoses - swapped to HEL lines when I installed Mpbbk on my m135i.

Based on yr comments, I won't be swapping hoses any time soon as brake pedal feel and braking response is spot on for me.

Thanks again for saving me a few pennies !!!

[paradocs98]

Thanks for posting--very helpful. The caliper design reminds me of the StopTech BBK I had on my E90 M3. Just a removable bridge for swapping out pads, making the process pretty easy.

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Thanks for honest critique. Even before I read yr post, I wasn't convinced abt braided hoses - swapped to HEL lines when I installed Mpbbk on my m135i.

Based on yr comments, I won't be swapping hoses any time soon as brake pedal feel and braking response is spot on for me.

Thanks again for saving me a few pennies !!!

I can say after swapping to SS lines I do not notice any difference in feel of the brake pedal. However the reason I switched is that I Track mine several times a season and it is insurance against track debris slicing through your brake line and losing brakes on track.