[horsepower_and_hounds]

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So just for the hell of it took the 2ruder to Z-Max raceway Friday evening and got some runs in. Since it was test n tune it was wide open so I ran 19 times. That is 19 launch control times
Since it was my first time I screwed up a few royally so I am posting all but 4 of them. Z-Max is a 4 lane strip. They run 2 lanes for street tires & 2 lanes race radials/slicks.
12 of my runs are on the street side, the last 3 runs of the night they let me hit the race side. I will say on the strip, mainly the street tire side that has less sticky prep there is so much wheel spin with street tires....the car seems to spin n float thru first, spin thru most of 2nd then hook up then shift to third and spin some more and finally hook up. I also did LC every time and it slams into gear and runs all the way up to 7500 rpm which we all know the car falls on its face over 6k so was probably loosing time there. My average of 12 runs on the street side was 12.8225 @111.851. The average of 3 runs on the slick side was 12.623 @113.093. The slick side had way less wheel spin but I got a shit tone of wheel hop.....it was quite scary. But the first run on the slick side was a 12.434 @114.200, but for some reason the other two just wheel hopped but were not as fast.

Below is each run, a few logs that I was able to catch in-between the app acting up. on the logs the beginning of the logs will be the roll up, staging and a short time at 3k+ rpm for LC even though it shows 100% pedal you have to look forward to the revs going up at clutch dump. I had higher expectations from the car and tune due to the fact they claim a 4.2 0-60 and 12.7 1/4 times from a stock car and me being tuned and exhaust but the car spun so much I have not idea how they achieve those times.

pick away

18 LC!
BM3 stg 2 93
VRSF stepped street HD core FMIC
MPE
stock Conti's
Launch Control used every run

Runs:

street lane
12.856 111.26 95 amb
12.778 110.85
12.866 111.86
12.874 112.62
12.864 110.65
12.981 112.19
12.888 112.92 91 amb
12.72 112.05 88 amb
12.687 111.68
12.775 112.41
12.783 111.74
12.798 111.99
12.822 111.85



slick lane
12.434 114.20 88 amb
12.682 111.64
12.754 113.44
12.623 113.09

Some logs:

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b36caa3d10b43733479298f

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b36dacfd10b4373347929c7

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b36e687d10b4373347929e4

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b36e9b8d10b4373347929fc

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b36ed4cd10b437334792a00

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b36ef81d10b437334792a09

[PackPride85]

What tire psi were you running at in the rear? Probably should be in the low 20s for drag strip. Also make sure the traction control is turned all the way off.

FYI i wouldn't recommend doing that many launches on street tires. All that wheel hop will eventually break something.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by PackPride85

What tire psi were you running at in the rear? Probably should be in the low 20s for drag strip. Also make sure the traction control is turned all the way off.

FYI i wouldn't recommend doing that many launches on street tires. All that wheel hop will eventually break something.

Wheel hop was only the last 3 runs on the slicks lane. As for pressure, it was at 38 from the heat and I dropped it down to 35. I tried lowering it to 30 and the car errored out when staging and I could not go over 80mph. So I pumped them back up. I thought it would not run that low with the TPMS enabled. Could I have reset them at that low of pressure and it would have been fine? Never tried that

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by m2ruder

Wheel hop was only the last 3 runs on the slicks lane. As for pressure, it was at 38 from the heat and I dropped it down to 35. I tried lowering it to 30 and the car errored out when staging and I could not go over 80mph. So I pumped them back up. I thought it would not run that low with the TPMS enabled. Could I have reset them at that low of pressure and it would have been fine? Never tried that

Nice job. Your street side times are extremely consistent, so there’s something to be said about that.

Resetting TPMS as you’re coming into the burn out/warm up area should work. I’ve not taken her to the strip, but when at the track and running low pressures with TPMS you have to reset right before you start rolling and have about 3/4 of a lap to make sure you’re above 27psi.

I think you could drop to 20, reset, roll into staging, launch, and be ok thru the 1/4. The big question is if the car will let you use launch control while doing a TPMS reset. I think it would.

Also, since you’re running a good bit more torque than stock, you likely want to lower your launch rpm. You do that with the cruise control rocker switch while you’re holding the throttle down and before you let off the brake.

Lastly, I think the majority of your traction and time issues were the stock Conti’s. Even a PSS has a good bit more grip, but something like a 71R would hook up even better. You’d want to warm up the 71R in the burn out area tho.

[SeanWRT]

Yes you can reset at a lower pressure. That's what I did first every time of HPDE.

What other cars' results? Ambient is hot so try get some context.

[bi0hazard]

Thanks for posting. Pretty disappointing. I'm stage 2 as well. Was hoping for way higher trap speed

[horsepower_and_hounds]

I didn't pay much attention to others times...I mainly lined up to american muscle, chargers, challengers, mustangs, etc but everybody was running hot

[Daleb]

Yeah those trap speeds are barely any higher than standard. Both bm3 and mhd don’t seem to produce the goods on the strip unfortunately

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by Daleb

Yeah those trap speeds are barely any higher than standard. Both bm3 and mhd don’t seem to produce the goods on the strip unfortunately

Not sure I get what your saying...... Who's does on this platform and where do you think the tunes shine if your making points

[Daleb]

Originally Posted by m2ruder

Not sure I get what your saying...... Who's does on this platform and where do you think the tunes shine if your making points

I don’t really understand what you have said above but I’m all for bm3 and will most likely run it on my M2. My previous ewg m135i that was fbo but jb4 ran 116 terminals on pump and 120/121mph on e50 with fuelling upgrades both stock turbo.

Looking at your logs timing isn’t all that clean and ambients are high. Hopefully you get another shot in some cooler ambients.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by Daleb

I don’t really understand what you have said above but I’m all for bm3 and will most likely run it on my M2. My previous ewg m135i that was fbo but jb4 ran 116 terminals on pump and 120/121mph on e50 with fuelling upgrades both stock turbo.

Looking at your logs timing isn’t all that clean and ambients are high. Hopefully you get another shot in some cooler ambients.

I didn't mean disrespect just thought you might have some good insight so was just asking. The M2 is such a different animal than the others (135/235/335 etc) and we have all been struggling to get modified power from them. My IAT's always seem so hot and timing will not advance much...and pull at times. I am moving up to a rase FMIC to see if it helps but when ambients are so high I don't know what is going to help. Maybe try a DP next but my EGT's don't really get above 1450 max

[Daleb]

Originally Posted by m2ruder

I didn't mean disrespect just thought you might have some good insight so was just asking. The M2 is such a different animal than the others (135/235/335 etc) and we have all been struggling to get modified power from them. My IAT's always seem so hot and timing will not advance much...and pull at times. I am moving up to a rase FMIC to see if it helps but when ambients are so high I don't know what is going to help. Maybe try a DP next but my EGT's don't really get above 1450 max

👌🏼 On the dyno the m2 produces better results and has a higher stock turbo potential, it’s just translating that into on road performance.

The larger IC will definitely help as you know and I’d personally run at minimum sports cat but ideally decat. I know some say it isn’t required but it’s orogen to add power on the n55 so why not. I was under the impression the calculated EGT’s were fairly usesless on anything other than an oem car?

I think meth would be your best friend considering your high ambients. I’m a bit more lucky and rarely see above 60/70 ambients and my vrsf HD IC will only raise a few degrees over a multi gear pull. I’ll still potentially run meth to help get past the stock fuelling limits.

Have you considered keeping your furring IC and going for meth on top?

[425M2]

Dont feel bad about the times, I've done a few 0-60 pulls with dragy and I couldnt get past 4.6 sec. Far from the 4.2 that BMW claims.

[SeanWRT]

Originally Posted by Daleb

On the dyno the m2 produces better results and has a higher stock turbo potential, it's just translating that into on road performance.

The larger IC will definitely help as you know and I'd personally run at minimum sports cat but ideally decat. I know some say it isn't required but it's orogen to add power on the n55 so why not. I was under the impression the calculated EGT's were fairly usesless on anything other than an oem car?

I think meth would be your best friend considering your high ambients. I'm a bit more lucky and rarely see above 60/70 ambients and my vrsf HD IC will only raise a few degrees over a multi gear pull. I'll still potentially run meth to help get past the stock fuelling limits.

Have you considered keeping your furring IC and going for meth on top?

Calculated EGT works accurately with stock cat and stock turbo. When these two things upgraded, you'll still get similar EGT readings, but the real EGT would be lowered. This reading simply reflects how hard DME thinks you're pushing the engine.

OP's result isn't particularly impressive, but it's not a surprise given on a 90-95F day. And middle to high 12s is nothing to be sorry about. I bet stock M2 would be struggling with 13s+@107~108mph. BTW, 1mph is roughly 5whp with our car.

Put it this way, OP would be 2-3mph faster and 0.2-0.3s quicker in winter which is 12.3-12.5@114~117mph, approaching M4 base territory. That would sound much better.

That is the truth of the most if not all of tuned car - you push to have glorious number on ideal condition leave little to no headroom, leading to vulnerability to environmental variance. So don't be happy keeping up with a M4 in winter, that's simply because M4 stock flash have too much left on table to deal with rough conditions (hot and humid days and high altitude). BMW tunes its cars in a way customer should see consistent power under all circumstances.

In addition, I've told many times 5" IC won't work. From his log where DME already cap load to intake air mass and timing barely holds up, every degree IAT drop will directly translate to power.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Daleb:
Dyno results were pretty much the same. If you want to look at the logs you can. With 88deg ambient I bested a 378/430 on the stg 2 93 with booster to support octane & with the older core FMIC. Now I am running a HD core but ambients are higher and I was running it in open air. Either way not the most impressive considering my car made 349/395 stock in 69 deg temps.

SeanWRT:
As always your a opinions and expertise are a great help....and I listen & learn from all of them. I know the smaller IC's is not cutting it in these temps as we have discussed in the past, I am waiting on the latest VRSF race HD core unit to install and log. My post was not a complaint just evidence of results based on the situation & conditions. The variables are less than perfect and numbers are low but even then the car runs smooth, I feel it is safe & dependable. I did 19 runs in 4 hrs in that heat and never did it miss a beat. Might not be making 400 hp but it pulled strong and all those launch controls did not blow anything up I better not keep doing it though. On a different note what do I look for on load? actual load...not target correct?

425M2:
Thanks for the support.... yea my draggy numbers are kinda off from what is advertised for 0-60. The best I ever got on the street using LC was 4.25 but mostly 4.5-4.8

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Daleb,
Here are my dyno run logs from 5/05/18

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5aee0504d10b430d0ca61940
http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5aee06b4d10b430d0ca61942

[Daleb]

Originally Posted by m2ruder

Daleb,
Here are my dyno run logs from 5/05/18

http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5aee0504d10b430d0ca61940
http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5aee06b4d10b430d0ca61942

Going back to your logs from the 1/4 runs I personally don’t see what the issue is with your new HD IC?

You only have an increase of 10 degrees over the course of your 1/4 run which in my opinion is pretty good. No matter what IC you run you won’t go below ambient, meth realistically is the only way you will see an improvement given the conditions you are in.

[XutvJet]

My guess is the ambient temp was high and we all know these N55's cut power pretty hard above 5000rpms when they're heat soaked. If the car was spinning as much as you say in 1st and 2nd, then you're gaining ET and loosing MPH.

In sub 60 degree temps and a stickier track, I imagine the car could go 12.1-12.2@116-117mph. Not too shaddy, IMO.

How did the M235 do?

[aturk]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

My guess is the ambient temp was high and we all know these N55's cut power pretty hard above 5000rpms when they're heat soaked. If the car was spinning as much as you say in 1st and 2nd, then you're gaining ET and loosing MPH.

In sub 60 degree temps and a stickier track, I imagine the car could go 12.1-12.2@116-117mph. Not too shaddy, IMO.

How did the M235 do?

m2ruder was pulling consistent 2.1 60' times. For the track conditions, this was as good as a low profile street tire car will do. I left before he ran in the slick lane, but looks like he had a smidge more traction, and that gave him a little ET drop and a little bit more mph due to not spinning as much. Our MPH's were very similar every run, so I'm guessing we were both running the same low timing due to ambient temps being so high.

For my 235i:

Best ET was 13.3

Best MPH was 113

Avg 60' was 2.4x.... best was 2.399 and worse was a high 2.4. Consistently terrible, haha. Stock 245's out back with 20k on them.

I've never had such a frustrating time at the drag strip, my last car ran consistent high 10's at 140-142mph but that was 7 or 8 years ago. No matter how I launched this car it would spin terribly. 2nd gear would spin to limiter almost instantly. If I could have just hooked 2nd gear my ET's would have dropped and MPH would have jumped a bit.

M235i has Wagner EVO 2 Comp FMIC, CTS DP, CTS charge pipe, 97506 plugs, BM3 Stage 2 tune (OTS), Dinan springs, blah blah. 8speed auto car.

Next time I go back to the track it will be on drag radials, and e30 tune to hopefully make up for the hot weather.

EDIT: I have some 19's with 255 PS4's coming this week, if it makes enough traction difference to make up for the added weight maybe I'll go back out.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by aturk

m2ruder was pulling consistent 2.1 60' times. For the track conditions, this was as good as a low profile street tire car will do. I left before he ran in the slick lane, but looks like he had a smidge more traction, and that gave him a little ET drop and a little bit more mph due to not spinning as much. Our MPH's were very similar every run, so I'm guessing we were both running the same low timing due to ambient temps being so high.

For my 235i:

Best ET was 13.3

Best MPH was 113

Avg 60' was 2.4x.... best was 2.399 and worse was a high 2.4. Consistently terrible, haha. Stock 245's out back with 20k on them.

I've never had such a frustrating time at the drag strip, my last car ran consistent high 10's at 140-142mph but that was 7 or 8 years ago. No matter how I launched this car it would spin terribly. 2nd gear would spin to limiter almost instantly. If I could have just hooked 2nd gear my ET's would have dropped and MPH would have jumped a bit.

M235i has Wagner EVO 2 Comp FMIC, CTS DP, CTS charge pipe, 97506 plugs, BM3 Stage 2 tune (OTS), Dinan springs, blah blah. 8speed auto car.

Next time I go back to the track it will be on drag radials, and e30 tune to hopefully make up for the hot weather.

EDIT: I have some 19's with 255 PS4's coming this week, if it makes enough traction difference to make up for the added weight maybe I'll go back out.

Yeah, the 2.4 60 foot is killing you and is leaving nearly 1 second in ET on the table. Looks like you were also spinning in the lower gears and the 8AT possibly short shifting.

Do you have an LSD? It made a WORLD of difference in my M235 in both traction in the turns and off the line. I used to think my car had horrendous traction issues in 1st and 2nd when in Traction, Sport+, and DSC Off and the narrow 245 MPSS tires the issue. Turns out much of the issue was the open diff. My car now has immensely more rear traction, feels like it has 500lbs more weight over the axle, and actually feels slower because it hooks up so much harder in the lower gears. Probably the single best mod I've done to the car.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Two things I think was killing me other then the temps
#1 35psi street tires. next time i will drop 5-10 psi and reset the TMPS and see if it will let me run. I thought it is pressure specific but what I have read it should let me lower and reset as good?
#2 I ran launch control each time and it shifted at 7500 which I think I might have not been making any time over 6k. I looked at my dyno sheet and it pulls up to 5700 then hits a dip then back up till 6100 then falls off so the last 1500 rpm might be loosing me time

[SeanWRT]

Daleb I didn't read all of OP's log. Just the first one shows IAT starts from 120+ and ends at 150+ on 4th. Keep in mind in a standing still drag race, IAT starting temp is deceiving because car's been idle for a while and is hotter than normal. You see his IAT drops to low 120 on 2nd gear, which means in real world when car in motion, normal IAT in sport/sport+ would be 110~120 at max. You imagine what would happen if OP does back to back runs after 150+F.
http://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5b36caa3d10b43733479298f

m2ruder In fact off the line you're doing pretty good. The problem is really horsepower especially from 3rd gear.
According to your dyno run, best shifting strategy is:
1-2: redline 7k->4k (in theory it should be 3k5, but in real world it's 4k when DCT clutches to 2nd)
2-3: redline 7k->4k5
3-4: 6k5->5k
4-5: 6k5->5k
Keep in mind, leave it to redline on 1-2 and 2-3 even power band tells you other wise, because there're traction coming into play and DME most of time makes the best decision.