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      09-28-2021, 10:08 AM   #1
switzerr
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Clicking Noise Finally Resolved

My 2018 has had a low speed clicking noise since I purchased the car. It had an earlier service to investigate it -- no resolution. A second service couldn't find any issue -- and was stalled by my aftermarket camber plates (the noise pre-dated that installation).

A third service found a fix. From the invoice:

REMOVED FRONT WHEELS, STUDS, SPACERS, ROTORS. CLEANED ALL MATING SURFACES, INSTALLED FRICTION RINGS BETWEEN HUN AND ROTOR, ROTOR AND SPACER, SPACER AND WHEEL. VERIFIED CORRECT TORQUE ON ALL FRONT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS.

And the noise is gone.

No charge at any point. Happy it is resolved. Apparently these friction discs are on M3s and M4s.
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      09-28-2021, 10:55 AM   #2
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Was it this clicking noise?

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      09-28-2021, 01:09 PM   #3
switzerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .Slug View Post
Was it this clicking noise?

It was indeed that clicking noise. Here is a post I made about the first time they addressed it.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1608540
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      09-28-2021, 02:29 PM   #4
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Well, strangely enough, I have the same noise coming from the (left) REAR wheel... every time I take a right turn... drives me crazy!!!
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      09-28-2021, 03:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nd chance View Post
Well, strangely enough, I have the same noise coming from the (left) REAR wheel... every time I take a right turn... drives me crazy!!!
I'm strongly suspecting its the same noise (sounds the same at least) I'm gettting also from my rear end when going over uneven surfaces and BMW hasn't been able to diagnose it over the past week and a half and 25 miles of driving they did trying to determine root cause. I'm going to inspect with a camera taped next to the parts and see if I can't capture that on the camera and finally get this addressed.
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      09-28-2021, 03:45 PM   #6
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Wish I could get a look at these "friction rings", I've heard of this being done several times now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by .Slug View Post
Was it this clicking noise?

That guy is pretty cool (also a nut), but he fails to mention a few things.

First, that's a torque to yield bolt, so taking it off you have to replace it.

Second, he says torque to 55 ft lbs, but it's actually 58 nm, which is 43 ft lbs.

Having said that, my top bolts are tight, and so is the bolt he removed, and I still have the clicking ONLY from the driver's side...like many. Guess it couldn't hurt to try.
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      09-28-2021, 04:51 PM   #7
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Love this forum. I just started noticing this clicking noise that only happens at low speeds over uneven pavement, come here and bam there's already a thread on it.
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      09-29-2021, 04:03 AM   #8
switzerr
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When I swap out my track wheels I will see if I can get a pic of the friction rings. They ordered extras to accommodate my 10 mm wheel spacer.

The last tech that looked at the car diagnosed it in seconds. He sat in the passenger seat, I drove around the lot, and he said he knew the fix.
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      09-30-2021, 02:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
Wish I could get a look at these "friction rings", I've heard of this being done several times now.



That guy is pretty cool (also a nut), but he fails to mention a few things.

First, that's a torque to yield bolt, so taking it off you have to replace it.

Second, he says torque to 55 ft lbs, but it's actually 58 nm, which is 43 ft lbs.

Having said that, my top bolts are tight, and so is the bolt he removed, and I still have the clicking ONLY from the driver's side...like many. Guess it couldn't hurt to try.
He also applied a lubricant to the threads. You can throw the torque value out all together as that value will over tighten (stretch) the bolt.
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      09-30-2021, 02:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwood74 View Post
He also applied a lubricant to the threads. You can throw the torque value out all together as that value will over tighten (stretch) the bolt.
What I'm saying is that once the bolt is used, you can't just take it off and reuse it, unless BMW is bullshitting us.
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      09-30-2021, 02:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
What I'm saying is that once the bolt is used, you can't just take it off and reuse it, unless BMW is bullshitting us.
If that's a torque to stretch bolt, then that part is true too as they have already been permanently deformed during the initial. Purpose being to achieve a proper clamping force. Just pointing out that once you lube a thread, you better also be adjusting the torque spec accordingly. I wouldn't lube anything that's supposed to be clamping like that bolt.
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      09-30-2021, 03:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwood74 View Post
Just pointing out that once you lube a thread, you better also be adjusting the torque spec accordingly. I wouldn't lube anything that's supposed to be clamping like that bolt.
Agreed, makes perfect sense. I can see putting lube on the bracket, but nowhere on the threads where the nut would intersect it, as that would compromise the holding force.
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      09-30-2021, 04:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwood74 View Post
He also applied a lubricant to the threads. You can throw the torque value out all together as that value will over tighten (stretch) the bolt.
Agreed. Anti seize is useful, but all torque to values then require adjustments. I learned this the hard way on a relatively low torque bolt for a Thule fit kit where I ended up deforming a part bc the torque wrench never triggered. Now I know better.
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