[GarageMadness]

Finally got around to installing these mounts to improve upon general driving characteristics when engaging gear shifts. Been busy with refining my S2000 with fresh OEM and aftermarket track duty parts so haven't focused much on the M2C lately.

The install was fairly straightforward. I've listed out the process for anyone wanting to do this below. Overall, it's a noticeable difference in driving feel and performance. Here are answers to questions often asked about these mounts.

NOTE: These mounts are only applicable to manual transmissions.

Why get these mounts?
The OEM mounts have a large amount of deflection (transmission movement upon load) with it's offset design allowing for a softer gear exchange while focused on NVH compliance. RE mounts reduce that deflection by introducing a harder neoprene rubber compound to offer greater transmission stability during gear changes.

Is there any increase in NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness)?
No. There is no additional NVH being introduced into the cabin or through the steering wheel. Upon idle you can feel more vibration ever so slightly by placing your hand on top of the shift knob, but it's almost unnoticeable. This is mostly probably attributed to the neoprene material vs. the stock material.

Where do you experience the biggest change in driving characteristics?
Biggest difference are gear changes 1 through 4 at low speeds. It effectively eliminates unwanted deflection when shifting into gears on up shifts. The ambiguous and vague throw from 1st to 2nd gear is vastly improved and more precise. High speed changes are more pronounced and connected. It also adds greater distinction between 1st and reverse gears. As you up shift past 4th gear, 5th and 6th gear changes remain close to stock feel. Downshifting is also more precise from 1st to 4th gears.

Is the installation process difficult?
Yes and no. For those comfortable getting underneath their car, it's fairly simple. For others not comfortable on their back, it may prove to be more difficult. Obviously having a proper lift with a transmission jack nearby makes the install fairly simple. The hardest aspect is removing the 2 top nuts on the OEM mounts given the lack of space while using a box wrench. Once those are removed with some patience, the rest of the installation is simple. Linked below is well done video from another owner which details the process. Should only take about an hour. It maybe be longer, as in my case since I had to let the car cool off after driving to my friend's home. NOTE: Be safe and ensure the exhaust is completely cool before getting underneath the car. As always ensure the car is properly jacked up and don't perform any work work under the car if you're uncomfortable.

Installation tips in addition to the video and pics offered by others on this install:

• Ensure car is completely cool including all exhaust components.
• Use jack pads if raising car on jack stands
• Check to ensure car is properly supported before getting underneath.
• If using a QuickJack, you will not have side access to get underneath the car, making it a bit more inconvenient getting in and out underneath the car.
• Using a floor creeper is highly suggested for ease of movement.
• The transmission brace is not visible underneath until you remove the underbody panel.
• Remove the panel using a small 1/4" ratchet so you don't break the bolts.
• Use the smallest 13mm angled box wrench given the tight space for the top nuts being removed.
• Ensure you have the transmission supported with small jack, wedging a used phone book between jack and transmission for even weight dispersion.
• Take a break if you get too hot or uncomfortable.
• Have a friend nearby handing you tools you need to avoid getting in and out underneath the car (will make the job go by much quicker and makes it more fun to do with someone).

How much did it cost and where can I buy it?
$60 plus shipping from Rogue Engineering website: https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...nts_p_137.html

My overall summary is this maybe the "biggest bang for your $$" modification on manual M2’s. This was the third step of improving my manual transmission after installing the MP shift knob. So far the $10 Burger Motorsport dead stop eliminated the dead space with engagement (worth it). The MP shift knob (personal preference for high $$) and the $59 RE mounts have improved the overall driving engagement (worth it).

My next step is further improving shifting dynamics by installing the Ultimate clutch pedal and then finally the AutoSolutions short shifter. Doing this in succession will enable anyone to really tell what makes the biggest impact in driving characteristics while spending the lowest amount of money possible. I hope this review helps others.

[tenkies]

I just installed the Autosolutions SSK and it's plenty notchy and crisp now. I'll be interested to see what your review will be after you install yours with the upgraded trans bushings and how much more NVH you get.

[GarageMadness]

Originally Posted by tenkies

I just installed the Autosolutions SSK and it's plenty notchy and crisp now. I'll be interested to see what your review will be after you install yours with the upgraded trans bushings and how much more NVH you get.

The mounts are super quiet. I'm not expecting adding that AS SSK will generate any more NVH. If anything I'm anticipating increased noise from just the shifting engagement of each gear given the upgraded bushings in that SSK. Has that been your experience?

[tenkies]

Originally Posted by GarageMadness

The mounts are super quiet. I'm not expecting adding that AS SSK will generate any more NVH. If anything I'm anticipating increased noise from just the shifting engagement of each gear given the upgraded bushings in that SSK. Has that been your experience?

The SSK has a nice click engagement right now. I did upgrade the bushings in the shift fork to one level stiffer than stock. I'm not noticing any excessive vibrations in the shifter right now. Hoping to see what difference you see after adding the SSK. BTW the SSKs are on a bit of a delay I heard and you should plan about 1.5-2 month wait from ordering so I would plan accordingly.

[GarageMadness]

Originally Posted by tenkies

The SSK has a nice click engagement right now. I did upgrade the bushings in the shift fork to one level stiffer than stock. I'm not noticing any excessive vibrations in the shifter right now. Hoping to see what difference you see after adding the SSK. BTW the SSKs are on a bit of a delay I heard and you should plan about 1.5-2 month wait from ordering so I would plan accordingly.

Will report back once installed. I will install the UCP first and see how that improves engagement.

Ron also made me a SSK to my specs several months ago. I have it in hand. 😉

[GarageMadness]

Just finished an amazing vacation to AZ, UT, CO, NM. GT touring is where the M2C excels. Visited several national parks and finished a 2242 mile road trip in the M2 Comp. No better way to break in the new car than this. Must do if you have an itch to get out on the open road. Really like the different color images of Sunset Orange Metallic. Got lots of compliments from people on the trip. I thought I would post up thoughts on the M2C and the he my trip in case others are wondering what this car is tally good at day to day.

Epic spirited driving roads:
Hwy 89A (AZ) *towards Kanab, UT*
Hwy 24 (UT)
Hwy 12 (UT) *thru Dixie Nat'l Forest*
Hwy 145 (CO)
Hwy 133 (CO) *towards Aspen, CO*
Hwy 550 (CO) *Ouary to Durango*

Fantastic places to visit and relax:
Moab, UT
Telluride, CO
Aspen, CO
Durango, CO

Amazing scenic drives:
Bryce National Park, UT
Natural Bridges, UT
Canyonland National Park, UT
Arches National Park, UT
Mesa Verde National Park, CO

My positive impressions:
Drove well on all smooth to medium-rough roads.
Super comfortable seats on long drives especially with the lumbar adjustments.
Excellent visibility from all angles when driving.
Rear-view camera helps a lot when parking in limited light (appreciate this helpful feature).
Acceleration while passing slower vehicles was unparalleled to anyone else on the road.
Plenty of room for a 2-week trip for two passengers (the trunk has a lot of room if packed properly - bit surprised).
Tire pressures, coolant temps, and oil all held up well even at 11,000 ft. climbs (no unusual spikes).
Brakes worked well at various speeds and stopping forces.
iDrive system was simple, fun, and easy to use while driving (downloaded a USB flash drive with 40 gigs of music plus satellite radio).
The BMW Navi worked extremely well especially with voice commands and zoom-in feature (Split screen with position providing latitude, longitude, altitude, and compass are very helpful settings).
Ability to instantly see Google trip map onscreen if iPhone is connected.
Absolutely love the amount of visibility with the headlights at night (best car I've owned with night time driving so far).
My favorite feature was the auto on/off high beams (so much easier to drive at night).
Rarely had to go below 3rd gear for any passing or acceleration even on steep inclines (love the torque the turbos produce).
Cruise control works seamlessly even on steep mountain passes (much better at holding speeds than my other vehicles).

Where the car suffers:
Gas mileage was poor as expected (averaged between 20 to 23mpg with efficient mode and cruise control activated).
Ride comfort was horrible when on medium to severe rough roads.
Definitely needs upgraded suspension and tuning for better handling characteristics (car felt unsettled at times on rough roads, off camber turns, and undulating highways).
Front grill and side mirrors/windows collect bugs splatter like nothing else (M mirror design forces bugs into the cabin at highway speeds if you keep the window open).
Brakes leave unearthly amounts of brake dust all over the wheels on a long trip (did use a power rinse carwash station was once on the trip to clean the brake dust off along with bugs on the paint - glad I ceramic coated and installed PPF as I would say it's a must for this car if driven on long road trips).
Wireless charging sucks in this car (we know this already).
Wish it had larger cup holder and map pockets in the doors.
Stock MT clutch is not comfortable on long trips (leg gets tired as it's positioned too high).
Stock MT shift feel was uninspiring to drive unless you're WOT in M mode (installing my SSK soon).

Am I happy with the car even though it's not perfect in every way? Hell yeah! The car was a blast to drive, comfortable for two people, easy to maneuver in and out of parking lots/spaces, and offered great visibility for sight seeing while driving. My suggestion is to get out and drive the M2C on an epic trip yourself and all our complaints will go away. Truly is a gem in the GT touring category of performance oriented cars.

[Saintjah]

[GarageMadness]

I finally got around to installing the UCP and AS SSK.

INSTALL AND REVIEW:It was fairly straightforward with the UCP. I also landed up installing the M pedal while I had the new clutch pedal in hand. My friend drilled them out, while I worked on the UCP install. I set the pedal in the middle position as a good starting point. Immediately, I noticed the clutch pedal position is equidistant to the brake pedal. This eliminated the problem where my foot constantly hit the OEM clutch pedal when moving from the rest pedal. The middle position on the UCP definitely provides a shorter travel and allows for smoother engagement of the clutch. The pedal also feels slightly firmer than the OEM pedal. The billet aluminum feel is more consistent and less vague than the plastic OEM feel. I would not say the install of the UCP is easy given the gumby like nature of the position you have to be in to remove the stock pedal and install. I'm just glad I was flexible enough to get it done.

Reference Install Video (used this for reference)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afe2rheIKWI

SAD NOTE: I did accidentally damage the master clutch cylinder on the final step by not double checking the bolt had completely gone through the eyelet of the cylinder shaft. I pushed down on the pedal to complete the last step (not realizing the mistake I had made) and the plastic shaft broke from the pressure. Long story short, it cost me another $65 for a new master clutch cylinder on top of a a clutch bleed (live and learn ). In my years of modifying cars, I've never broken anything while installing a part. Lesson learned: Light up the underneath of the dash as much as you can and use both hands to the complete the final bolt installation. I mention this so others can learn from my mistakes.

Would I do the install by myself....100% yes!
Should you buy the UCP....absolutely a big difference in pedal pressure so yes.

While I has a local BMW mechanic perform the clutch bleed, he took a look at my AS SSK and absolutely wanted to do the install right there and then. He made it a point to say this was by far the best construction he had seen on a shorter installed on an M car. Since he knew his way around M cars and had installed various short shifters before, it actually only took him 1.5 hours to complete the AS SSK install. It was interesting to watch someone who intuitively knew how to install a short shifter. He basically did the install in the easiest way possible by dropping the drive shaft out of the way, disconnecting the shifter rod and transmission mount, and "snaking" the shifter out without having to drop the exhaust.

Brief Video highlighting install steps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1H9qgmvPDPE

REVIEW: This is by far the best modification I've done and will probably be the top personal and performance modification throughout my ownership. I ordered a 22.5% reduction at stock height with the upgraded bushings. This shifter kit makes the OEM one feel like a distant memory. All shifts are precise, crisp, and eliminate the vagueness/"rubber like" feel of the OEM shifter completely. All gear throws are pronounced and require minimal additional effort on my part. 1st to 2nd gear is much smoother. 2nd to 3rd gear is visceral at WOT. 3rd to 2nd gear is perfection, especially when you're in M mode with greater throttle response and rev matching in tow. Through the gear changes, I have much better feel for the gear I'm in at all times. The gear changes are more audible (so if you're not keen on that, this may not be for you). I personally like the audible "click" notifying me the proper gear position has been reached. Currently I have the M performance shifter so the shifter provides a more definitive mechanical feel. For those who want to minimize that a heavier weighted shift knob would offer more kinetic force and somewhat minimize this "notchy" feel. Overall, I'm happy to get this installed for a whopping....wait for it, wait for it....$250!

Is the price to performance worth it?....most definitely yes
Is it something most can install on their own....probably no
Would I recommend this specific shifter kit....absolutely yes
Am I happy with the 22.5% reduction....it's perfect
Does the shifter pair well with M shift knob....yes if you like a more mechanical feel

The M2 Comp truly is so much more enjoyable to drive now. If my S2000 is the gold standard at 10, my M2 Comp has now achieved the silver standard at 8.5. Since I had already installed the Rogue Engineering transmission mounts, I have now achieved the "trifecta" on these specific modifications. If anyone has questions, just post up or send me a PM and I will answer questions for you. I hope this was informative at the least.

[FateSeven]

Thanks for the review - I just got a tracking number from Ronald on my AS SSK! Aside from some bits of coding, this will be the first mod to my M2C. Trying to rein it in from my old heavily modified WRX, but the shift feel of the M2 is slightly embarrassing, stepping out of a <$5k NA Miata.

[tenkies]

makes me want to go and get the UCP soon. My experience with the AS SSK is pretty much the same. The only thing I have to add is that I have the M performance shit knob as well and it fits a bit looser on the SSK than it did on stock and had a tendency to come loose when shifting aggressively. Wrapping just the tip of the SSK with a layer of tape fixed the issue.

[GarageMadness]

Originally Posted by tenkies

makes me want to go and get the UCP soon. My experience with the AS SSK is pretty much the same. The only thing I have to add is that I have the M performance shit knob as well and it fits a bit looser on the SSK than it did on stock and had a tendency to come loose when shifting aggressively. Wrapping just the tip of the SSK with a layer of tape fixed the issue.

Did you double check installation of the knob. I've haven't experienced that issue.

[tenkies]

yep. The knob only fits one way and I can feel it slip into the top notch when slid onto the SSK. Maybe I have a knob that's slightly larger bore or a SSK that's milled slightly small. Either way with a little tape it feels solid and has not come off.

[PHX102]

Great write up! Did you ever get your wheels installed?

[GarageMadness]

Originally Posted by PHX102

Great write up! Did you ever get your wheels installed?

Not yet. I have diverted considerable time and money to two other car builds between living in two different states. Both builds are near completion. I will put some time into finishing the M2C in October.

[Em2c]

That is awesome that he did the install in 1.5 hours.
My shop took 4.5 hours for it so I ended up spending more on this than I would have liked. I think it was another 2 for the slave cylinder, so in all 6.5 hours.

[GarageMadness]

Originally Posted by Em2c

That is awesome that he did the install in 1.5 hours.
My shop took 4.5 hours for it so I ended up spending more on this than I would have liked. I think it was another 2 for the slave cylinder, so in all 6.5 hours.

Yeah I left the slave alone as I didn't want to remove the CDV until after crank hub fix.

[W///]

Just read about your road trip and review, thanks for that. Same feedback with you regarding the road trip as I bought my M2C in Houston TX and drove it back to SC.

I also agree about the shifter. I'm OK with living with the stock setup until warranty runs out (mine is a 2019), but an SSK along with MP front lip will be right up there on my to buy list.

[GarageMadness]

Originally Posted by W///

Just read about your road trip and review, thanks for that. Same feedback with you regarding the road trip as I bought my M2C in Houston TX and drove it back to SC.

I also agree about the shifter. I'm OK with living with the stock setup until warranty runs out (mine is a 2019), but an SSK along with MP front lip will be right up there on my to buy list.

The SSK makes a big difference. Don't wait and just get it done. Your level of enjoyment will increase exponentially. You can always get a rebuild kit to replace the bushings, collar, lock pins, and such on your OEM shifter and keep it you want to switch it out. ECS sells the rebuild kits inexpensively. I like the MP don't spoiler as well but didn't want to spend that much on something that will eventually break as it's CF. I went with this instead….lightweight performance. Very solid piece, subtle, cost effective, and offers good protection. I'm installing it soon.

[GarageMadness]

Finally got out to a track day after a year of being busy with other things. It was fun to see all my track buds. A few of us brought our S2000s for a track day. I decided to bring the M2 Comp as my S2000 is getting safety items installed for proper bucket seats. Needed to shred the remaining stock tires off. Mission accomplished! Plus I wanted to see how it does on a short track (1.25 miles) with tons of different cars. I'm an intermediate track driver (NASA DE3). So lots of different HP in my group. My fastest session I was able to pass most everyone except the instructor and a few other cars (NSX, two 911s, C8) in stock form, stock pads, and street tires. The only thing I changed was brake fluid to RB660.

Good first time experience on track overall. It's blistering fast and can brake as late as you want into turns. You do have to gently squeeze the throttle on tight turns given the massive torque available. I will say 3rd gear is most used gear given the wide power band. Brakes are something to get used as you can brake very late into every turn given the stopping power. On the other side they can also can scrub off speed too quickly. I will need more seat time to practice modulating the brakes to balance this. The car handles surprisingly well in stock form as I have no suspension or tire upgrades. I really wanted to see how it performed before any track modifications are made. It is definitely a different beast on track vs street driving. On tighter turns it lacks some grip to accelerate hard given the lack of camber and 200 tread wear tires. The seats are great with the adjustment of bolsters on the sides. You have to find the right seating position as the helmet does make quick contact with the headrest at times. I can see taller torso drivers may not have this issue. The SSK performed well. I knew exactly what gear I was in at all times (exactly what I was aiming for when I ordered it through Ron at Auto Solutions). Drove the car in MDM mode most of the day to allow the extra slip angle I wanted on tight sections of the track. One thing to note is bleeding tires down to track temps will light up the TMPS message. You can go down to 28-30 PSI cold with no issues. I'm not exactly sure at what tire temp the car would engage limp mode. All other temps we fine. I do wish the car had a oil dipstick instead. Track sessions are 20 minutes long so you can't measure oil unless you can drive 30 minutes or longer. Plus TMPS cannot be reset unless your moving. I will have to use my pyrometer to measure the proper camber once I have suspension upgrades and proper tires installed.

Overall a fun day with friends. I felt like I brought a cheater car amongst the momentum based S2000s. I could accelerate hard in any gear, brake much harder and deeper into turns, and achieve significant straightaway speeds. 😜

[Saintjah]

Which track were you at Thunderbird?

[warrenw]

Originally Posted by GarageMadness

Finally got out to a track day after a year of being busy with other things. It was fun to see all my track buds. A few of us brought our S2000s for a track day. I decided to bring the M2 Comp as my S2000 is getting safety items installed for proper bucket seats. Needed to shred the remaining stock tires off. Mission accomplished! Plus I wanted to see how it does on a short track (1.25 miles) with tons of different cars. I'm an intermediate track driver (NASA DE3). So lots of different HP in my group. My fastest session I was able to pass most everyone except the instructor and a few other cars (NSX, two 911s, C8) in stock form, stock pads, and street tires. The only thing I changed was brake fluid to RB660.

Good first time experience on track overall. It's blistering fast and can brake as late as you want into turns. You do have to gently squeeze the throttle on tight turns given the massive torque available. I will say 3rd gear is most used gear given the wide power band. Brakes are something to get used as you can brake very late into every turn given the stopping power. On the other side they can also can scrub off speed too quickly. I will need more seat time to practice modulating the brakes to balance this. The car handles surprisingly well in stock form as I have no suspension or tire upgrades. I really wanted to see how it performed before any track modifications are made. It is definitely a different beast on track vs street driving. On tighter turns it lacks some grip to accelerate hard given the lack of camber and 200 tread wear tires. The seats are great with the adjustment of bolsters on the sides. You have to find the right seating position as the helmet does make quick contact with the headrest at times. I can see taller torso drivers may not have this issue. The SSK performed well. I knew exactly what gear I was in at all times (exactly what I was aiming for when I ordered it through Ron at Auto Solutions). Drove the car in MDM mode most of the day to allow the extra slip angle I wanted on tight sections of the track. One thing to note is bleeding tires down to track temps will light up the TMPS message. You can go down to 28-30 PSI cold with no issues. I'm not exactly sure at what tire temp the car would engage limp mode. All other temps we fine. I do wish the car had a oil dipstick instead. Track sessions are 20 minutes long so you can't measure oil unless you can drive 30 minutes or longer. Plus TMPS cannot be reset unless your moving. I will have to use my pyrometer to measure the proper camber once I have suspension upgrades and proper tires installed.

Overall a fun day with friends. I felt like I brought a cheater car amongst the momentum based S2000s. I could accelerate hard in any gear, brake much harder and deeper into turns, and achieve significant straightaway speeds. 😜

I have yet to have limp mode at the track with low tire pressures... It's just a warning that tells you "it's a good idea not to drive fast" but it doesn't physically limit anything.
Also, you should be able to measure oil as long as it's up to temp. It *says* 30 min but I've never actually had the car force me to not be able to measure until 30 min has elapsed.

[warrenw]

Originally Posted by GarageMadness

Yeah I left the slave alone as I didn't want to remove the CDV until after crank hub fix.

Any info on removing the CDV? What do you have to do in order to get that done?