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      02-13-2021, 12:57 PM   #1
EtotheD
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Install Questions M Performance Coilovers

Just got my M Performance coilovers and really looking forward to doing this install myself once the weather warms up. I'm preparing ahead and had a few questions if any can help. Read some of the DIY guides here and they are helping a lot. Any other tips would help. I have the Schwaben 18mm strut socket and 10mm deep offset box wrench to get the top bolt off. Also got the spreader socket to remove the strut.

1. I ordered the hardware kit and question about nut 33-32-6-768-884. I got 4 of these. I'm sure it's to replace the nut on the pinch bolt and end link end that is removed for the front strut. 2 for each side. Just want to make sure.

2. Did anyone use the nyloc nut that comes with the MPC to attach the front strut to the top mount? I'm assuming the one that comes with the hardware kit/factory nut would be better. Is thread lock necessary?

3. Is cutting the gaiter needed? I feel it's a poor solution and don't want to do it if it isn't necessary.

4. The rear camber bolt/nut and 3 strut mount bolts on each side aren't replaced even though they are removed. Any reason to replace?

5. Any concerns taking to the dealer for alignment afterwards. Like giving you crap for doing it yourself or am I better off going to a independent shop?
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      02-13-2021, 01:39 PM   #2
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1. Yes.
2. No - to both using the nylock nut and using thread lock (the all metal nut is slightly oval before you fit it, so grips without)
3. There's likely to be too much if you don't, but remember the top acts as the spring seat so keep the scissor away from it)
4. It depends on what you take off. I would refer you to NewTIS, only...
5. Probably depends on the dealership, and how confident/competent you're feeling and whether you have the necessary tools.

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      02-13-2021, 01:40 PM   #3
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Duplicate post - odd...
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      02-13-2021, 06:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
3. There's likely to be too much if you don't, but remember the top acts as the spring seat so keep the scissor away from it)
Thanks for the answers. It's odd, I think the instructions just want you to use to the top seat portion and cut the rest of the gaiter off.
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      02-14-2021, 09:53 AM   #5
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Sub’d. Really interested in your journey as I’m strongly contemplating doing it myself as well. I’ve watched Farkle’s video quite a bit to get familiar with tools needed.
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      02-14-2021, 12:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazChem View Post
Sub’d. Really interested in your journey as I’m strongly contemplating doing it myself as well. I’ve watched Farkle’s video quite a bit to get familiar with tools needed.
I'm very interested in doing this work myself and learning more about the car. I have previous suspension install experience but definitely want to get this one done right from the start.

For the rears, one thing I'm considering is removing the far end control arm bolt rather than messing with the camber bolt. Other than a harder reach I'm not sure of any drawbacks. I know others have mentioned this but have yet to see a video or write up that does it. Seems like everyone goes for the camber bolt. Heard stories about breaking the tabs that hold it in and want to avoid it. ISTA also recommends replacing the camber nut which isn't supplied with the hardware kit. Instructions have them using a internal spring compressor to remove the rear spring.

As for re-indexing I'm considering just torqueing down replaced bolts at ride height. Measure from the fender to the center hub instead by subtracting the wheel radius to get to the BMW specified height and using a jack to get it there. Lots to research.
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      02-14-2021, 02:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EtotheD View Post
I'm very interested in doing this work myself and learning more about the car. I have previous suspension install experience but definitely want to get this one done right from the start.

For the rears, one thing I'm considering is removing the far end control arm bolt rather than messing with the camber bolt. Other than a harder reach I'm not sure of any drawbacks. I know others have mentioned this but have yet to see a video or write up that does it. Seems like everyone goes for the camber bolt. Heard stories about breaking the tabs that hold it in and want to avoid it. ISTA also recommends replacing the camber nut which isn't supplied with the hardware kit. Instructions have them using a internal spring compressor to remove the rear spring.

As for re-indexing I'm considering just torqueing down replaced bolts at ride height. Measure from the fender to the center hub instead by subtracting the wheel radius to get to the BMW specified height and using a jack to get it there. Lots to research.
Am currently under my car doing this install with ohlins. Same procedure. I started taking off that bolt to the end of the Control Arm, but it was not as easy as I thought and had second thoughts on it. Put weight back on the suspension to pre-tension the bushing, and went for the Camber Bolt instead, just easier to get to. I am working with a Quick Lift and it makes it a little easier. Not a difficult job at all really, just a lot of grunt work. The main thing is safely jacking car. All my Springs are pre-assembled with dampers so just taking out and replacing with Track Ready components fron 3DM Suspensions.
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      02-14-2021, 04:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EtotheD View Post
Just got my M Performance coilovers and really looking forward to doing this install myself once the weather warms up. I'm preparing ahead and had a few questions if any can help. Read some of the DIY guides here and they are helping a lot. Any other tips would help. I have the Schwaben 18mm strut socket and 10mm deep offset box wrench to get the top bolt off. Also got the spreader socket to remove the strut.

1. I ordered the hardware kit and question about nut 33-32-6-768-884. I got 4 of these. I'm sure it's to replace the nut on the pinch bolt and end link end that is removed for the front strut. 2 for each side. Just want to make sure.

2. Did anyone use the nyloc nut that comes with the MPC to attach the front strut to the top mount? I'm assuming the one that comes with the hardware kit/factory nut would be better. Is thread lock necessary?

3. Is cutting the gaiter needed? I feel it's a poor solution and don't want to do it if it isn't necessary.

4. The rear camber bolt/nut and 3 strut mount bolts on each side aren't replaced even though they are removed. Any reason to replace?

5. Any concerns taking to the dealer for alignment afterwards. Like giving you crap for doing it yourself or am I better off going to a independent shop?
1) It's not critical to replace those, but yes, you'd use two each side if you did (one for top end link, and one for knuckle pinch bolt).

2) Use the nyloc that came with the aftermarket kit AND read the instructions for the proper torque spec. The nylocs typically use lower torque specs than BMW's all metal lock nut and in addition to that it's not uncommon for aftermarket companies to use softer metal for the counter hold. This isn't as much an issue if the counter hold is a 10mm socket, but if it's a hex, it may strip before reaching the torque spec of the BMW all metal nut.

3) If the spring will pinch/bind on the dust boot/gaiter then you should cut it. If there's a dust boot on the M-Perf suspension (which it looks like on attached to the bump stop), then you don't really need to double up.

4) No need to replace those.

5) They won't care if you pay them for an alignment. I'd go to an indy shop since you can specify what alignment numbers you want since the factory alignment isn't optimal (typically too much toe and too much rear camber).

Quote:
Originally Posted by EtotheD View Post
For the rears, one thing I'm considering is removing the far end control arm bolt rather than messing with the camber bolt. Other than a harder reach I'm not sure of any drawbacks.
Access on the inner bolt is really limited. The control module for the exhaust valves is right in the way. Also since the camber bolt has a slot, it's easier to realign and get the bolt through when putting things back together. This is one area that the F8x is a lot easier than the F2x/F3x. Trying to align the holes in the camber arm and wheel carrier is such a pain sometimes.
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      02-14-2021, 07:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post

2) Use the nyloc that came with the aftermarket kit AND read the instructions for the proper torque spec. The nylocs typically use lower torque specs than BMW's all metal lock nut and in addition to that it's not uncommon for aftermarket companies to use softer metal for the counter hold. This isn't as much an issue if the counter hold is a 10mm socket, but if it's a hex, it may strip before reaching the torque spec of the BMW all metal nut.

3) If the spring will pinch/bind on the dust boot/gaiter then you should cut it. If there's a dust boot on the M-Perf suspension (which it looks like on attached to the bump stop), then you don't really need to double up.


Access on the inner bolt is really limited. The control module for the exhaust valves is right in the way. Also since the camber bolt has a slot, it's easier to realign and get the bolt through when putting things back together. This is one area that the F8x is a lot easier than the F2x/F3x. Trying to align the holes in the camber arm and wheel carrier is such a pain sometimes.
FaRKle! I just watched your video and it's very informative. I was thinking the whole time the Schwaben 18mm would work on the front and rears. I had no idea you could torque putting the torque wrench on the center counter hold. Whole time I was thinking how the hell do people torque down using pass through sockets? Makes sense now. Looks like I'm hunting down a thin wall pass through set. My Harbor Freight one from past installs is only 6 point. MPC also uses a torx now instead of the 10mm.

I couldn't find the torque spec on the MPC instructions for the nyloc. I checked the KW V3 instructions and it said 50Nm. I'm assuming it's probably the same. They also mentioned cutting the gaiter right at the top seat like BMW. I guess they are recommending no protection, I'll probably just cut it short a little.

Yeah I'll be removing the camber bolt. I think some mess up the tabs either by trying to turn through the bolt head instead of the nut or not counter holding the head side.
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      10-29-2021, 10:58 AM   #10
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Well I finaly got around to doing it. Did it slowly over a week. I went the long route on the fronts by taking the top hats with the struts. Required removal of the carbon and aluminum strut brace. Only reason was to replace the 5 bolts on each side of the top hats to the recommended hardware. Honestly I'm not sure it was necessary.

Only hiccup I ran into was the rear top hat. Removing the 18mm nut was no issue with the hex counterhold on the stock strut. The M Performance one has a torx instead. I put my torque wrench on the torx and thin wall pass through on the nut and couldn't get it to torque. Once the torx bit started twisting, I called it. Last thing I wanted was to break a torx bit inside or damage the torx hole. It's definitely tight and the top hat is bottomed out on the rubber that sits on top of the adjustment dial. Since the the 18mm nut is pinch style, I don't think it's going anywhere. Maybe others have insight on how they torqued this on the MPC?
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      10-29-2021, 11:25 AM   #11
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Good job.

How're the ride height measurements looking
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      10-29-2021, 12:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EtotheD View Post
Only hiccup I ran into was the rear top hat. Removing the 18mm nut was no issue with the hex counterhold on the stock strut. The M Performance one has a torx instead. I put my torque wrench on the torx and thin wall pass through on the nut and couldn't get it to torque. Once the torx bit started twisting, I called it. Last thing I wanted was to break a torx bit inside or damage the torx hole. It's definitely tight and the top hat is bottomed out on the rubber that sits on top of the adjustment dial. Since the the 18mm nut is pinch style, I don't think it's going anywhere. Maybe others have insight on how they torqued this on the MPC?
I literally had this exact same problem, broke my bit trying to get it torqued, and just left it. I wish someone would chime in on how this is supposed to be done correctly, since it seems impossible to get it to the correct torque with normal tools.
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      10-29-2021, 02:07 PM   #13
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I think (?) once I'd got the nut 'seated' it was then possible to just clamp the top hat and wind on the torque to the nut.
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      10-29-2021, 07:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
How're the ride height measurements looking
At 4 threads on the front and maxed out on the rear. Full tank of gas. After driving around the neighborhood, I'm at the following. Not sure if I should lift the front some to account for the 75kg x 2 spec. Might settle more also.

Front 596mm
Rear 597mm

Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
I literally had this exact same problem, broke my bit trying to get it torqued, and just left it. I wish someone would chime in on how this is supposed to be done correctly, since it seems impossible to get it to the correct torque with normal tools.
Right, even if you did torque via the nut you would end up stripping the torx while counterholding. Looking at the KW V3 they used a hex and instructions even call out for more at 50Nm. If comparing to the fronts once that nut was down it really didn't even move anymore when torquing to 71Nm. I feel it's the same with the rear. Once it stops it seems good. 38Nm might be more of a formality. I feel like that rubber stop doesn't help either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
I think (?) once I'd got the nut 'seated' it was then possible to just clamp the top hat and wind on the torque to the nut.
I thought about this but was worried it would spin the location of the rebound dial. I wanted it facing directly outward. Was half tempted to grip the flat spots located above and below the dial with a crescent wrench and counterhold from there.
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      10-29-2021, 08:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
I think (?) once I'd got the nut 'seated' it was then possible to just clamp the top hat and wind on the torque to the nut.
I think what confused me was the Keis Motorsport tutorial that everyone was saying to follow. His tools are pretty fantastic, and he torqued it properly.

I haven't had any issues, and I have no idea what my torque ended at.
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      10-13-2022, 01:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EtotheD View Post
Well I finaly got around to doing it. Did it slowly over a week. I went the long route on the fronts by taking the top hats with the struts. Required removal of the carbon and aluminum strut brace. Only reason was to replace the 5 bolts on each side of the top hats to the recommended hardware. Honestly I'm not sure it was necessary.

Only hiccup I ran into was the rear top hat. Removing the 18mm nut was no issue with the hex counterhold on the stock strut. The M Performance one has a torx instead. I put my torque wrench on the torx and thin wall pass through on the nut and couldn't get it to torque. Once the torx bit started twisting, I called it. Last thing I wanted was to break a torx bit inside or damage the torx hole. It's definitely tight and the top hat is bottomed out on the rubber that sits on top of the adjustment dial. Since the the 18mm nut is pinch style, I don't think it's going anywhere. Maybe others have insight on how they torqued this on the MPC?
Great post! 👍🏻

Rear shocks - Is it meant not to sit all the way up in the mount?

The mount is ~1,5 cm deep but from the rubber on the damper to the threads, there is just ~ 1 cm?

So the damper will not meet the metal in the mount as the standard did. Is that correct?!
I can’t understand torque it down on top of rubber?!
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