05-10-2020, 12:41 PM | #1 |
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OG M2 brake cooling
I have a few track days coming up and I know on the OG a few of the major problems on track are cooking the brakes and overheating the engine.
After a ton of googling and not being able to find a state side kit to duct air to the brakes I decided to make my own like some others on here! I will be using ducts from a c6 Vette, a rivet on flange to the stock heat shield and 2.5 inch tubing! If all goes well it should work trick! I'll keep y'all updated as parts arrive! |
05-10-2020, 01:53 PM | #2 |
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I’m interested to see what you come up with.
Right now I just have some Allstar 3" flanges that I modified to bolt on to the caliper mounting bolts, with 3" tubing zip tied to the LCA. COVID has limited my track time to gauge effectiveness. I’m a bit skeptical that I’m scooping all that much air. 2-1/2" will probably be much easier to work with. I just couldn’t find a flange that would fit in the same spot as the Allstars. Please take time for pictures along the way. |
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05-19-2020, 01:06 PM | #3 | |
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05-19-2020, 09:08 PM | #4 | |
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05-21-2020, 01:36 AM | #5 | |
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<edit to add photo from trial fit> I had hoped to use a 2-1/2" aluminum joiner between the silicone reducer and the hose, but as you can see, it was super close to the roll bar end link. I also tried just jamming the 2-1/2" hose into the reducer, but there still wasn’t enough room to route the hose around everything, and I didn’t trust them to stay together without a hose clamp. I probably could’ve gotten creative with glue or zip ties, but the 3" hose just worked better. These scoops from Mini Mania (someone else here on bimmerpost found them and posted a link a while back) will probably work well with 2-1/2" hose if someone else can sort out either a better path to fitting a reducer on either end of the hose, or finds a 2-1/2" flange. I like the mounting point for the flange using the caliper mounting bolts. It’s secure and blows roughly into the center of the hub/rotor so the air can be channeled into the vanes in the rotor ring. My mechanic is pretty handy with a TIG. I might resort to having him weld a 2-1/2" flange to some 5mm aluminum plate so I can use the scoops. For now, the 3" hose is zip tied to the LCA and it has been holding up pretty well over several thousand miles. Last edited by bentom2; 05-21-2020 at 02:03 AM.. Reason: Add photo and more detail. |
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05-23-2020, 12:27 PM | #6 |
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So far this is what we've come up with. We riveted in the aluminum flange and these are my C6 corvette scoops. I riveted a 2.5" coupler into the scoops so that the hose has something nice and rigid to bite into with the hose clamp.
We're also making aluminum plates to strengthen the rotor dust shield. Then I'm going to make aluminum plates to strengthen where the scoop gets zip tied to the LCA. It should be a rock solid setup |
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05-23-2020, 12:59 PM | #7 |
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05-23-2020, 03:37 PM | #8 |
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I like these backing plates. Then its just fitting the hose and using your choice of scoops/NACA Ducts where they will get clean air.
https://burkhart-engineering.com/en/...-m2-f8x-m3-m4/
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05-23-2020, 08:35 PM | #9 | |
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05-23-2020, 10:59 PM | #10 | |
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This Vid shows why a backing plate that is in place of the old dust shield puts the air right into the hub where the internal vanes during rotation will pull the air thru the rotors. I've doubled my rotor and pad life on my two previous M cars using a well setup kit
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05-24-2020, 01:52 AM | #11 | |
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05-24-2020, 01:56 AM | #12 |
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I definitely agree with the guys saying the air needs to be as close to the center of the hub as possible. But utilizing the factory dust shields there is no good spot to mount a flange. I chose what I felt was a decent spot.
So many times in life I've wished I knew how to model on cad. It would be soooo much easier to model and machine my own custom parts. So far I'm under $200 into this project and I'd say if it works 25% better I'll be stoked with those results. So far I've mounted the 2.5" coupler into the dust shield. I also used a band saw to make reinforcement plates to rivet onto the dust shield. This made the too much more rigid. I was concerned about fatiguing the aluminum dust shield over time with the added stress of the hose being attached to it. |
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05-24-2020, 02:03 AM | #13 |
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I also made a plate to prevent the scoops from sliding backwards. Not sure how well they will stay in position at speed being only zip tied to the LCA but we'll see at my upcoming track day.
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07-02-2020, 07:42 AM | #14 |
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Sorry, late to the party on this thread!
A guy via FB shared with me the 3D printer files for air scoops he had made for the M2. I will be printing up some of these as soon as I get access to my mate's 3D printer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35...TVn1-yms779ihg Look really neat. |
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07-02-2020, 09:29 PM | #15 | |
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07-02-2020, 11:18 PM | #16 | |
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07-03-2020, 11:47 PM | #17 | |
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07-04-2020, 05:01 AM | #18 | |
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I'm wondering if the air ducts mounts up to the inside of the wheel well, or if it would require some modification for M2. The drop down menu says M2/M3/M4, but I think all the pictures on the website (and the descriptions) are M3/M4. I also wonder how much the drop in efficiency is with the air venting on the rotor opposed to the middle of the rotor like some of the other designs, as mentioned in this and other threads. |
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07-10-2020, 01:19 AM | #19 | ||
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Running stock 437m wheels with PS4S. I'm trying to get BBS or 763m gold wheels in 18 or 19. Might go to cup 2s. I have a hook on Michelin's. |
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07-10-2020, 01:22 AM | #20 |
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So far after one track day the brake cooling ducts really seemed to help. I was running 5 hot laps around big willow at a time followed by 1 cool down lap. I ran a 1:42. A buddy in a really fast 1M ran a 1:30 and a full on cup car buddy was running a 1:23. I still have more to learn on the track but I was super happy with the car's performance.
I really feel I need seats to hold me in place better next. The OG seats suck on track. |
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07-10-2020, 07:09 PM | #22 |
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