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      10-24-2022, 08:38 PM   #89
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Apparently the change is drastic. Car is expected to be stable and planted
Be careful here about what you expect. I have modified many cars for track use including being about 20k into suspension mods for my CS and the difference is not night and day, especially with cars that are as well setup from the factory.

My modifications mean the car is better on the track and the setup will likely stay closer to the desired settings under track use with sticky compounds.

However if you want bang for buck? Swap the brakes out for smaller non comp calipers, slap 18 inch 305s on square and have at it.
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      10-24-2022, 11:38 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by aroundelway View Post
Be careful here about what you expect. I have modified many cars for track use including being about 20k into suspension mods for my CS and the difference is not night and day, especially with cars that are as well setup from the factory.

My modifications mean the car is better on the track and the setup will likely stay closer to the desired settings under track use with sticky compounds.

However if you want bang for buck? Swap the brakes out for smaller non comp calipers, slap 18 inch 305s on square and have at it.
I am not expecting more than what a sport sedan will be capable of. We will see, parts will arrive soon - however they seem to be making very fast BMWs at the Nurburgring, can't wait to try it either way.

If I need a more precise track machine ...thankfully I have that cover too
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      10-25-2022, 07:56 AM   #91
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Are you running square set up on the 18s what size ? I'm thinking of trying to sqweeze 285s under it after we do the front brakes
Yes square setup. I think 275 Toyo RR's. Need to check.
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      10-25-2022, 05:12 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by aparedes View Post
I am not expecting more than what a sport sedan will be capable of. We will see, parts will arrive soon - however they seem to be making very fast BMWs at the Nurburgring, can't wait to try it either way.

If I need a more precise track machine ...thankfully I have that cover too
I have to say the stock dampers have been incredible car planted and predicable
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      10-26-2022, 11:36 AM   #93
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I run square yes. I believe 275 all around. I do have camber plates on front. -2.5 and -1.5 works well for me

The CSR is square setup as well. We could have fit larger rubber under that one but chose not to for DE

The limited factor for me with my setup isn’t from a lack of grip. Tons of grip for me. Drivers skill I could always use some work
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      10-27-2022, 07:15 AM   #94
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The limited factor for me with my setup isn’t from a lack of grip. Tons of grip for me. Drivers skill I could always use some work
Odd that the more you do it the more this is the realization, versus early in the journey when we all originally believed "just need that mod to be faster!"
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      10-27-2022, 10:38 AM   #95
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Odd that the more you do it the more this is the realization, versus early in the journey when we all originally believed "just need that mod to be faster!"
So true. It's a complete mindset. I found this to be true as a former professional golfer also. Growing up without any money, learning to work with your mis matched set of clubs. Learn to use what you got first.

Back to cars, I cut my teeth on E30 M3. Try being fast in those lol.

The pros with the race cars are 2 flat at VIR. If I get there with the street car setup as is, then maybe I can look into more mods. At moment I'm at 2:06.25 after essentially one day of tracking.

Loads of potential left but A LONG way from 2 flat.

A basically stock M4 GTS with a good alighment and Randy Pobst behind the wheel did 2:03 ish. My fastest time in the CSR was 2:04.xx. Got this after about 8 days at VIR. That's my first goal.
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      10-29-2022, 09:43 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by aroundelway View Post
Be careful here about what you expect. I have modified many cars for track use including being about 20k into suspension mods for my CS and the difference is not night and day, especially with cars that are as well setup from the factory.

My modifications mean the car is better on the track and the setup will likely stay closer to the desired settings under track use with sticky compounds.

However if you want bang for buck? Swap the brakes out for smaller non comp calipers, slap 18 inch 305s on square and have at it.
How did you fit 305s up front ?
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      10-29-2022, 08:37 PM   #97
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18’s and camber. It’s a known setup by now.
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      11-14-2022, 07:10 AM   #98
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The camber plates are making so much noise either something is wrong or it's just the way they are. Going into shop today for diagnosis.

Could also be a strut failure. I'll find out soon, just dropped her off.

I'll likely go back to factory shock plate setup and get the camber from the bottom via SPL control arms.

Headed to Daytona early December !!
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      11-14-2022, 04:33 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by ptgltw View Post
The camber plates are making so much noise either something is wrong or it's just the way they are. Going into shop today for diagnosis.

Could also be a strut failure. I'll find out soon, just dropped her off.

I'll likely go back to factory shock plate setup and get the camber from the bottom via SPL control arms.

Headed to Daytona early December !!
Let me guess, Ground Control?

One thing about using the SPL lower arms for camber is that they reduce the clearance from the tire to the upper fender. I was getting rub on heavier compression there with 265 tires on 9.5" ET22 wide wheels.
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      11-15-2022, 07:37 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Let me guess, Ground Control?

One thing about using the SPL lower arms for camber is that they reduce the clearance from the tire to the upper fender. I was getting rub on heavier compression there with 265 tires on 9.5" ET22 wide wheels.
LOL so yeah. Ground Control. What a mistake. No way they can handle the rigors of the track forces the M2 CS sees.

With the car on the lift you could take the entire shock assembly back and forth on the drivers side. Like 2" play lol. The passenger side had about 1/4" wiggle. Refund coming.

So we decided to forgo SPL parts all together and ordered Vorshlag plates which at the time of our build was backordered.

This should solve things quit nicely.
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      11-15-2022, 10:54 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by ptgltw View Post
LOL so yeah. Ground Control. What a mistake. No way they can handle the rigors of the track forces the M2 CS sees.

With the car on the lift you could take the entire shock assembly back and forth on the drivers side. Like 2" play lol. The passenger side had about 1/4" wiggle. Refund coming.

So we decided to forgo SPL parts all together and ordered Vorshlag plates which at the time of our build was backordered.

This should solve things quit nicely.
Wow, that's a lot of play! Where's it coming from on the GC plates?

When you install the Vorshlag plates make sure the bolts holding the plate to the shock tower aren't "too long" on the engine side of the plate or they'll limit the travel. Also, if you're going to really high camber, you'll need to check the same for the engine-side bolt that connects the alu brace to the top of the camber plate (I replaced my stock bolts there with M8x1.25 x 20mm long and a washer).
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      11-15-2022, 09:00 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Wow, that's a lot of play! Where's it coming from on the GC plates?

When you install the Vorshlag plates make sure the bolts holding the plate to the shock tower aren't "too long" on the engine side of the plate or they'll limit the travel. Also, if you're going to really high camber, you'll need to check the same for the engine-side bolt that connects the alu brace to the top of the camber plate (I replaced my stock bolts there with M8x1.25 x 20mm long and a washer).
Thanks. Don't you use the factory strut tower bolts for the Vlag plates?
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      11-15-2022, 09:18 PM   #103
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Thanks. Don't you use the factory strut tower bolts for the Vlag plates?
You can use the factory strut tower bolts, but they also provide their own. The factory bolts are longer than needed, and protrude down through the plate. This can cause the spring perch flange underneath to contact them if the camber is adjusted to a high position (see @ 10:49 in my video below).

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      11-21-2022, 02:16 PM   #104
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GC Camber plates after 1 weekend. Installed by a professional shop.

Vorshags in now. Quite for the time being. Daytona coming up. Will report back.
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      11-21-2022, 03:31 PM   #105
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GC Camber plates after 1 weekend. Installed by a professional shop.

Vorshags in now. Quite for the time being. Daytona coming up. Will report back.
Wow, how does that wear even happens in those locations? The rubber isolation boot and bump stop should be preventing that wear. Did your shop not put the bump stops in and the top of the damper is hitting the camber plate? As much as I'm not a fan of GC, I'm not sure this one is due to their design.

If you look at my video below at 15:57 I show where the GC bump stop is supposed to go, which should be preventing the wear seen on your plates.
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      11-21-2022, 05:59 PM   #106
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No idea. The crux of my issue was...

The strut nut came loose and the strut bolt came below the camber plate monoball. I was running around VIR at 150 mph like that.

I'm told by my BMW factory mechanic the new plates are snug as a bug with zero noise. Let's see if I can change that with a few laps around Daytona, lol.

He also said these have lock nuts so it won't come loose. What a S*&T design GC is.
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      11-21-2022, 07:16 PM   #107
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I'd still encourage you to double check you have bump stops installed (can be done just jacking up each of the front corners and trying to feel it within the rubber boot. Don't even need to take the wheel off). Even a good design like Vorshlag will suffer if they're missing. If you didn't give the OE front bump stops to your shop to swap in when they took the GC out, you might not have them...
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      11-22-2022, 01:21 PM   #108
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Mechanic said factory bump stops are in (and were in) and are in perfect condition.
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      11-22-2022, 03:51 PM   #109
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Damn, that is scary. I have used Vorschlag on my 1M for 5 years, approx 30k miles and probably 30+ lapping days. Still tight.
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      11-22-2022, 05:17 PM   #110
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BMW Factory mechanic said the side that was making the most noise wasn't even the side that had the loose strut nut issue lol. All I can think of is:

Glad I'm safe.
GC will be on nothing even remotely getting close to the track again.

Fine for the street for a 190 hp E30 M3 lol.
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