[terrywang]

NOTE: Cross posting the thread here (in case other folks run into the same problem, also looking for local experience handling this)

Story is: bought MANN filter's Air Filter but failed to fit into the air filter box due to its too rich & fluffy soft edge. Compare it with stock MAHLE filter, it is bigger due to the soft edge... The workshop did not have MAHLE for F87 / or (F20 LCI M135i) so we decided to put the old one back, will buy and DIY at home.

I've got new torque wrench yesterday and try to tighten the bolts to the right torque as when the mechanic put the strut back he didn't use 28Nm (we didn't know that at that time). Not sure if that damaged it...

End up with: the screw (red arrow) with "RIBE 8.8" on cap cannot be get out, both direction, it spins but not moving up/down.



Searching Google / RealOEM / newTIS did not reveal what this bolt is, how I can get new ones and trying to fix this problem.

I hope what went broken is the screw (disposable), not the screw hole part (which is a part of the body)...


Has anyone encoutered the same problem before? What is the solution to this?

TIA...

Reference: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ter/1VnXnmS9Hm

Torque for screws: 28Nm (in metric)

[Ahhchu]

If you can get all the other bolts out without any problem, you can use the bracket itself to help put some upwards pressure on the stripped bolt as you unscrew it. I wouldn't use the bracket it as a lever per say, try and lift it flat and evenly as you undo the bolt and hopefully it will grab and unscrew. Failing that, your next best bet will possibly be drilling it out.

A new bolt can probally be obtained OEM through a dealership or if you aren't concerned about everything looking the same any bolt of the same size and thread will do the trick. Even if the bolt hole is damaged, it's not a big deal you can recut the thread which is relatively easy and cheap.

Hope this helps.

[terrywang]

Originally Posted by Ahhchu

If you can get all the other bolts out without any problem, you can use the bracket itself to help put some upwards pressure on the stripped bolt as you unscrew it. I wouldn't use the bracket it as a lever per say, try and lift it flat and evenly as you undo the bolt and hopefully it will grab and unscrew. Failing that, your next best bet will possibly be drilling it out.

A new bolt can probally be obtained OEM through a dealership or if you aren't concerned about everything looking the same any bolt of the same size and thread will do the trick. Even if the bolt hole is damaged, it's not a big deal you can recut the thread which is relatively easy and cheap.

Hope this helps.

Thank a lot Ahhchu

Trying to look for the part number for the screw but no luck so far, I'll ask my mechanic friend to source a couple for me (hope it won't be crazily expensive for what it is).

[TheHaze]

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_8381

I think the bolts you're looking for are #15 in that diagram.

[terrywang]

Originally Posted by TheHaze

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_8381

I think the bolts you're looking for are #15 in that diagram.

Thanks so much mate, exactly what I was looking for.

Didn't expect it to be in vehicle trim section ;-)



For all other owners' reference

AUDM RealOEM link

2' F87 M2 M2 Reinforcement for body, front
- Select another car > Vehicle trim > Various body parts
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_8381

Part numbers are the same as USDM though ;-)

Screws

6* Hex bolt M8X20- 8.8-ZNS3 Part number 07119906119
2* Hex blot with washer M8X27 Part number 07149229516

[terrywang]

Got 2 from North Shore BMW (they were from Germany), however, it didn't take 2-3 months.

I actually got 2 from my friends overseas (but those 2 look like used).

Will get to the workshop and try to get the stripped ones out, any tips or tricks, past experience dealing with that would be greatly appreciated.

[MR RIZK]

How do you know the bolt is stripped and not the female side?

My recommendation is if the bolt is stripped and you get it out I would run a tap through the hole BEFORE trying the new bolt. Unfortunately I don't have a 10mm. Have 6,8 and 12 HSS bits

[terrywang]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

How do you know the bolt is stripped and not the female side?

My recommendation is if the bolt is stripped and you get it out I would run a tap through the hole BEFORE trying the new bolt. Unfortunately I don't have a 10mm. Have 6,8 and 12 HSS bits

Thanks for the advice.

Just guessing based on the material of the hex bolt, it looks like it's not designed to last (but consumables -_-z). I got 2 used ones, I can tell some of the treads are already lightly damaged (they may be used only once or twice).

Have a mechanic friend who also told me the same thing. Some bolts are consumables, need to be replaced every time. Also it may be a design decision to make female side tougher to make repair easier in case something bad (not using a torque wrench) happens.

[terrywang]

Nov 2021 update: did the long delayed services (oil, brake fluid, air filter, cabin air filter) at friends workshop. He managed to get the screw out with my help giving upward force - lifting up the brace strut.

To my surprise, the screw was OK, but the treads were damaged.

More observation: the new screws have flat head, the old ones do NOT; the new ones goes in straight, while the old ones can go sideways easily (if using impact drive - shit!). Looks like BMW has improved (patched) the problematic screw to avoid easy careless damage (must have received heaps of complaints). Fixing the treads took no more than 3 mins (with his experience and tools, free of charge...).

Impact: it's not something critical. The repaired treads can no longer work with the screw to specified torque (28Nm), that's expected, but not a big deal.