04-11-2017, 08:32 PM | #23 | |
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Also DINAN came to that conclusion after testing the base M2 (see here): "These specific parameters allow the car to safely extract as much power as possible out of the engine. On the M2 this task is especially daunting given how close to the edge of its capability the N55 and its turbo are tuned from the factory. BMW did not leave a lot on the table to work with in terms of additional power output as the turbos are taxed heavily out of the gate. In fact, in its stock configuration, the M2 is nearly the equivalent of a Dinan stage 3 tuned M235i (the stage just short of the big turbo and associated tuning)."
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04-12-2017, 06:25 AM | #24 | |
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Mike
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04-12-2017, 06:36 PM | #26 | |
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see here http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...&postcount=231 Crankshaft is identical between M2 N55B30T0 and M235i N55B30O0 11212334334 ...as are the connecting rods 11247586492...piston and rings however are unique to M2 N55B30T0! |
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04-16-2017, 06:01 PM | #27 | |
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To give the N55 new purpose, BMW started from the ground up with it. Starting from the block and rotating assembly, BMW gave the N55 a forged crankshaft, forged connecting rods and newer piston rings. It also received a reshaped oil pan and a new oil drain pump, to allow for better circulation during more extreme circumstances than it was normally put under. Additional oil coolers have also been fitted to insure that, during the sort of driving that the M2 is capable of, there’s no loss in power. “Because if your oil temperature and coolant temperature are running so hot, it’s inevitable to have reduced power. You can’t have that.” According to Jose Guerrero, BMW Product Manager for the M2. and The BMW M2’s N55 has also had its spray-on cylinder liners replaced with cast-iron ones, which are necessary for the M2 Are you saying that that information from BMW was false? Interesting... Mike
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04-16-2017, 07:10 PM | #28 | |
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The N55 forged crank upgrades mentioned were made for the N55B30O0 engine, found in the M235i, over the original N55B30M0 engine. These were then carried through to the M2's N55B30T0. If you lookup the part numbers in RealOEM and as I listed them below you will see the confirmation. Crankshaft is identical between M2 N55B30T0 and M235i N55B30O0 11212334334 ...as are the connecting rods 11247586492...piston and rings however are unique to M2 N55B30T0! Further, you should look at BMW M2 Technical Training 2015 (English) (US version) http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/att...2&d=1457027357 from page 19 on it outlines the changes and improvements of the M2 N55B30T0 engine over the M235i N55B30O0 engine. Therefore, the only part of Guerrero's comments specifically applicable for the M2 N55B30T0 vs the M235i N5530O0 is the following: "newer piston rings. It also received a reshaped oil pan and a new oil drain pump, to allow for better circulation during more extreme circumstances than it was normally put under. Additional oil coolers have also been fitted to insure that, during the sort of driving that the M2 is capable of, there’s no loss in power" and..... despite multiple early BMW information consisting of published press releases and web site claims of the M2 N55B30T0 having a closed deck block design as an upgrade from the M235i's N55B30O0 open deck block.... well....that turned out not be true. |
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04-17-2017, 05:57 AM | #30 |
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Well, I feel quite confident with my current 446 HP + 20-30 HP DP setup.
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retired: 2014 435xi|MPPK|335 bhp|3/5 stars Last edited by auf Deutsch; 04-17-2017 at 02:25 PM.. |
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04-17-2017, 06:23 AM | #31 | |
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04-17-2017, 06:27 AM | #32 |
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^ fair enough but, the added HP doesn't make the M2 less agile, a car universally known for its agility.
You wouldn't take the Millennium Falcon over a fighter jet?
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04-17-2017, 06:31 AM | #33 |
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i think it's not cost-effective or reliable in the long run to modify your car out of it's performance class. you also start impacting driveability and weight distribution. the most i have planned is just a stg 1 flash.
i think dropping weight is indeed the best solution. i will be looking to drop weight in the rotors and wheels first.
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04-17-2017, 08:27 AM | #34 | |
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On the other hand, we know if you put a racing suspension in the car it will go way faster around a circuit (see the 7:22 at the Ring) but that it will beat the crap out of you on the street. That's the trade off. But not with /hp. Vroom Vroom. Let the flaming begin. |
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04-18-2017, 01:47 AM | #35 |
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Doable, not doing it
More exemples of what can be done (420 hp).
Ac Schnitzer gives you up to 5 years or 120.000 km warranty. Tuning box doesn't provide a warranty but is now a 30-year old business and you can find their products all over the world, often rebranded by local dealers. That longevity doesn't come by surprise and certainly not by a reputation of blowing up customers' engines. |
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04-18-2017, 06:35 AM | #36 |
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It's been more than one year people are buying shit that piggyback nets you 50hp with stock turbo.
With BMW 3.0T platform, to generalize, 50hp gain takes 1) 5psi boost up top where N55 turbo is already choking as is and 2) fuel/timing/throttle calibration. How the hell is piggyback going to achieve that?
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07-18-2018, 11:14 PM | #37 |
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so after all this time, we've seen alot of ppl tune their OG M2,
can someone suggest a tried and true method of attaining between 50-100 hp that would keep the car in bmw warranty and logevity of the car i do side with the ppl who say that the other parts of the car have been beefed up to handle more power, so what can a conservative method be to get more power into m2 N55?? if I can be over 400hp, ill be good |
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07-19-2018, 12:31 AM | #38 | |
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If you don`t want to keep your warranty then you can go with any brand you want. A tune should get you to 400hp club. |
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07-19-2018, 12:33 AM | #39 | |
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Also, unless you go the Dinan route you're not going to keeping any kind of warranty. |
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07-20-2018, 04:56 PM | #40 |
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I get amused at all the talk of how to get more horsepower. Being able to say I have XXX Hp sounds good but the important question is how much Hp will your suspension and tires apply to the road surface. you can easily (relatively) modify an engine to produce more power but if that power cannot be effectively utilized you have but an ego thing. If you really are looking at more capability your focus should be in producing more torque and at a usable RPM . Torque not horsepower is what pulls you off the line and out of the corners.
Ive driven and tracked many cars for over 50 years (Porsche models and others) and the M2 is a well balanced package right out of the box. My advice is to learn to drive the car well before you modify something many well qualified engineers have tuned ... oh what the heck I'm just and old guy hp puts you into the wall, torque is how far you move the wall |
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07-21-2018, 04:17 AM | #41 | |
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07-21-2018, 11:12 AM | #42 |
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Interesting - they've bumped the torque at two specific rpm ranges, but left it alone over the rest of the torque curve. You might do that for marketing reasons, or warrantee reasons. Other reasons may exist...
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07-21-2018, 12:25 PM | #43 |
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I think the evidence from the solid tuners in the market shows the N55 in the M2 doesn't have a bunch of headroom for tuning, the guys at VF Engineering have talked about this and come up with a nice tune that takes advantage of the headroom available but to do stage 2 of that tune you must do an intercooler and DP. I currently run the stage 1 and it adds some torque and a little power, not night and day but a nice addition of power. At some point I will likely do stage 2 but this is the first time I have ever ventured into tunes of any type so slow and steady is my method.
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07-21-2018, 12:58 PM | #44 |
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Here’s my experience over the last year and 40+ track days with my M2:
Looking back at last year's track season, it seems a person should either just leave the car stock + camber plates or be prepared to go whole hog. This is my only car and I plan on keeping it for a while, so I went the later. I started with the Dinan sport tuner. The sport tuner just doesn't seem up to the task for the track. The last thing you want is to have just passed someone and the car goes limp mode at the top of 4th/into 5th and there's a sudden drop in speed! That's when I took it off and switched to Dinan stage 1 with the thought to eventually going stage 4. Any added boost, even with Dinantronics Stage 1, seems to need a larger intercooler after 20min on the track. Mine would pull timing later into the sessions until I added the Dinan FMIC. I had to add the Dinan LPFP mod so I could run below 1/3 tank on track without getting fuel pick up issues. The Dinan suspension improved looks and handling, and is really enjoyable. I tried the Fall Line solid rear toe links, but took them off. The added NVH is too much for me as a daily driver. Plus, the rear skirm on the M2 is so easy to manage, so no big deal. Added 0.04” front toe-in, as the car was seeking a bit too much on the highways with zero toe. Currently at -3.0 front and -2.0 rear with 0.3” rear toe in for added stability. I tried most all the track tires out there in 18s and 19s. The 19 staggered setup is faster than 18 square and I’ll be sticking to 4S’s for cold, wet, and snowy tracks (yes, I ran in snow at Watkins Glen early this year!), RE-71R for arrive and drive, and R7 for max grip. My biggest issue has been the brakes. I tried nursing the OEM brakes with various pads, fluid, and cooling approaches. The truth is the stock M2 brakes suck for serious tracking. I had to get a front AP BBK to make my brake issues go away. This week I added the Dinan turbo and Stage 4 piggyback. Amazing how stock feeling and easy to drive all that extra power is. I feel like I want to keep this car forever now. I also added the CSF radiator, oil cooler, and DCT cooler. I would see engine temps rising on hot track days before Stage 4, so the added cooling will help performance and protect the car. Going to try Stage 4 on track next weekend and will let you all know how it goes. Last edited by ZM2; 07-21-2018 at 01:09 PM.. |
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