[///MPhatic]

Hey guys, just wanted to add a few notes about this process. There is a big thread about it over on the M3/M4 forum, but I felt like it was missing quite a bit of install info, so this thread is just some notes for those that might do this retrofit in the future.

Link to the M3/M4 forum thread: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1135210

I read several comments that this wasn't such a hard swap, but I found it pretty rough. It seemed that there was just difficulty at every turn, and a friend and I did it in my air-conditioned basement, so pretty great conditions. Not sure what it'd cost to have a proper shop do it, but it's to be considered for sure.

This was my order of operations:

- unhook the battery
- remove ABS module
- remove the bolts and pin from the brake booster (under the dash)
- remove the master cylinder
- remove the brake booster

Some notes:

1. The little clip that holds the brake pedal pin in is a bit weird, so I've shown it here with how your screwdriver needs to go in and push up, then the clip just slides off easily once that part is lifted.

2. The little rubber caps I used for the brake lines. You'll need 6 of them, then a larger one for the side of the reservoir. I'll add the sizes I used later.

3. The wiring harness on the side of the ABS unit isn't intuitive at all. The top portion slides up pretty far (but doesn't come out), then the harness can be removed.

4. The ABS unit itself sits on 2 metal prongs at the bottom, so it feels like it's attached, but it's actually just the rubber grommets on the bottom of the unit holding onto those prongs. You just have to wiggle it up until it comes off.

5. The hose on the brake booster comes off best with a metal fork (trim) tool.

After doing a traditional bleed the pedal was super soft at the top, but got firmer as I drove the car. After a few miles I had a soft pedal at the top, but the brakes felt fine otherwise.

I did get 3 errors, but I believe all 3 are because the car requires coding for the retrofit. We will see on Wednesday when I get the coding.

I plan to do a DSC/ABS bleed next, then a traditional bleed afterwards to finish the job.

I'm sure I've forgotten something, but this thread is really just for future reference anyway.

Shout out to the super cool guy that sold me the kit and helped me figure a lot of this stuff out. sleeper1g, bro, you're a legend.

[///MPhatic]

A few more pix.

[Track/S]

No coding is needed for the upgrade, no error should appear, you must have some error of the abs module.

To purge you need an automatic purger, with the traditional method you will never bleed.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

No coding is needed for the upgrade, no error should appear, you must have some error of the abs module.

To purge you need an automatic purger, with the traditional method you will never bleed.

That's interesting, as it was you that specified what the coding was for?

Also, I plant to do the ABS/DSC ISTA-guided procedure.

[Track/S]

I mean you don't need coding to make the dashboard errors disappear.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

I mean you don't need coding to make the dashboard errors disappear.

I closed them all, yet they all came back. No idea what they are for. I assumed it was the CCB coding. You're thinking it's something else with the ABS?

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

I closed them all, yet they all came back. No idea what they are for. I assumed it was the CCB coding. You're thinking it's something else with the ABS?

Yes i think it is something related with abs, do you have ista to read codes?

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

Yes i think it is something related with abs, do you have ista to read codes?

I don't, but I have a friend that does. I wasn't aware that ISTA was how I should be reading these codes. Thanks for that!

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

I closed them all, yet they all came back.

With which diag tool did you close them?

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

With which diag tool did you close them?

Just on the dash. The interesting thing is that the "BRAKE" and "Brake System: Contin. driving possible" also left my cluster, but after a bit of driving they came back.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

With which diag tool did you close them?

I have a friend with ISTA coming over soon to read/close the codes, but I'm wondering if this can be done with Bimmercode, since I have that.

I'm also wondering if they might be related to the fact that I accidentally closed the trunk after I disconnected the battery and had to hook a different battery up to the car for a second in order to get the trunk open, but I'm doubting it.

I've read that the pedestrian and frontal collision codes come from a myriad of areas, including dirty windshields, rain, speed sensors etc, but since they happened at the same time I did the booster swap I'm thinking they are related. And I have the brake service requested code as well.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

I have a friend with ISTA coming over soon to read/close the codes, but I'm wondering if this can be done with Bimmercode, since I have that.

I'm also wondering if they might be related to the fact that I accidentally closed the trunk after I disconnected the battery and had to hook a different battery up to the car for a second in order to get the trunk open, but I'm doubting it.

I've read that the pedestrian and frontal collision codes come from a myriad of areas, including dirty windshields, rain, speed sensors etc, but since they happened at the same time I did the booster swap I'm thinking they are related. And I have the brake service requested code as well.

Did you connect the battery with the abs disconnected?
If so, could the errors come from there.

I don't know how bimmercode works, if it has the function to read errors you can try.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

Did you connect the battery with the abs disconnected?
If so, could the errors come from there.

I don't know how bimmercode works, if it has the function to read errors you can try.

I did the battery first, did all the work, then jumped the battery for a second to get the trunk open IIRC.

I'll have a poke around Bimmercode. Apparently these codes can be seen and cleared by many programs/devices, even ProTool.

[tux2005]

BimmerLink can usually read the codes, it's from the same people as BimmerCode. I think BimmerCode is somewhat equivalent to E-Sys while BimmerLink is more ISTA-like (although neither are as powerful).

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by tux2005

BimmerLink can usually read the codes, it's from the same people as BimmerCode. I think BimmerCode is somewhat equivalent to E-Sys while BimmerLink is more ISTA-like (although neither are as powerful).

Ah, thanks for the info.

I'll get this lined out this week and hopefully be able to tell what I did wrong to cause these error codes and keep other people from making the same mistake. I thought I had all the bases covered, but stuff happens.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

Yes i think it is something related with abs, do you have ista to read codes?

Did another traditional bleed tonight, and I can see why some would think that no ABS/DSC bleed is necessary. Pedal feels just slightly different at the top, but the car stops fine.

Unfortunately, after 4 miles the 3 errors came back. I'll have the cleared tomorrow, hopefully never to return.

I've also developed a high pitched intermittent squeal only when turning left. Good lord these brakes.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Did another traditional bleed tonight, and I can see why some would think that no ABS/DSC bleed is necessary. Pedal feels just slightly different at the top, but the car stops fine.

Unfortunately, after 4 miles the 3 errors came back. I'll have the cleared tomorrow, hopefully never to return.

I've also developed a high pitched intermittent squeal only when turning left. Good lord these brakes.

After a few km the noise will disappear, I had that noise when I installed mine in right and left turns and they disappeared

When you bleed, did you open the 2 bleeders on each caliper from the inside out?

[mikeyymonster]

I hope to do this conversion one day too, but sounds like quite the hassle!

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

After a few km the noise will disappear, I had that noise when I installed mine in right and left turns and they disappeared

When you bleed, did you open the 2 bleeders on each caliper from the inside out?

Weird! Mine are used! Was perfect for 8 miles, then it started squeaking. And yes, all nipples perfectly in order, my friend and I are masters at brake bleeding, thankfully.

Originally Posted by mikeyymonster

I hope to do this conversion one day too, but sounds like quite the hassle!

Some have had less issues, not sure why I’ve had more, we were super detailed with the work.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Weird! Mine are used! Was perfect for 8 miles, then it started squeaking. And yes, all nipples perfectly in order, my friend and I are masters at brake bleeding, thankfully.

Mine is also used.



If manual bleeding has not worked you will need automatic bleeder

[medphysdave]

Some that do this swap don't seem to replace the brake booster? What are the pros and cons of just swapping rotors and pads?

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Track/S

Mine is also used.



If manual bleeding has not worked you will need automatic bleeder

Ah, interesting.

I plan to do the ista ABS/DSC soon, so I'm sure that'll fix it.

Originally Posted by medphysdave

Some that do this swap don't seem to replace the brake booster? What are the pros and cons of just swapping rotors and pads?

As told to me by a CCB expert, and several BMW guys that have done the swap:

The booster is required.
The coding is required.
The ista ABS/DSC bleed is required (even if you have a firm pedal).

Doing it any other way will cause some sort of compromise/issue.

The reason for the weaker booster is because the carbon core of the CCB rotor is much weaker than the iron rotor and use of the standard booster and emergency stop code will damage the rotor over time, especially if it's being used on track because the carbon core will degrade over time with heat.