[Mark2016MG]

Originally Posted by Tigeroujimo

Tell me Mark. Can you see the protection from the front? Is it obvious? How easy is it to peel off?

They say to put it on about 1/8 of an inch back from the curve of the bumper. This is where I put mine and you can barely see it from the front, you have to really look or point it out to see it. It looks like a thin lip that follows the contour of the bumper when standing in front of the car from about 6 feet back. If I were to put it further back it wouldn't be able to be seen at all, but then I may risk scrapping the front of the bumper. It is VERY sticky, I tried to peel some off and reposition and it split the foam in the tape, leaving adhesive and some foam on the bumper. Nothing I couldn't get off with a little heat, solvent and some rubbing. It's meant to be put on and stay there...until you take it off permanently. I hope this helps! Here is a pic of the front of the car to show you from the front.

[Tigeroujimo]

Originally Posted by Mark2016MG

Here is a pic of the front of the car to show you from the front.

Really helpful. Thanks buddy!

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by ///AVM

Poochie

Can one jack safely lift one half side of the car, e.g., left front and rear wheels for tire removal? Or is it safest and intended for lifting one wheel at a time?

///AVM

It's a pretty powerful and quick jack, it takes electricity directly from the car's battery, which the built-in compressor then raises the vehicle instantly, with just the press of a button, no manual pumping..

It's definitely worth the money, especially as an emergency jack.

However, I would only trust it to lift one side at a time, that's why I suggested Akkando purchase two; to be able to lift the vehicle and place some jack-stands or wheel chucks on the opposing end.

Also, I recommend you pick up a BMW "Jackpad adaptor" So the jack lift groves does damage the mounting points of the vehicle.

[MagnusT]

I had an electric jack that looked exactly like that but in silver color. The case and auxiliaries where also identical looking. It collapsed when the car was up on it when one part cracked suddenly (red arrow pointing to it, a square aluminium block with threads inside, it cracked down the middle into two halfs). And it was recalled.

I'd love to get a new one that is safe. But how can I tell if it's a better version?

[M Fifty]

Filled the car for the 1st time since Easter...

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by MagnusT

I had an electric jack that looked exactly like that but in silver color. The case and auxiliaries where also identical looking. It collapsed when the car was up on it when one part cracked suddenly (red arrow pointing to it, a square aluminium block with threads inside, it cracked down the middle into two halfs). And it was recalled.

I'd love to get a new one that is safe. But how can I tell if it's a better version?

Buy a nice hydraulic trolley jack with a platform that's bigger than the jacking points on the sills.

[MagnusT]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Buy a nice hydraulic trolley jack with a platform that's bigger than the jacking points on the sills.

That's what I use since then. But the electric scissor jack was way smaller and easier to bring in the car to trackdays.


Anyway, anyone using this scissor jack beware, my car dropped in a blink of an eye. Luckily the wheels were still on and I was not under it.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by MagnusT

Anyway, anyone using this scissor jack beware, my car dropped in a blink of an eye. Luckily the wheels were still on and I was not under it.

That's good to know but as soon as the car is lifted, I secure the weight of the vehicle with a jack stand, if the car is going to be hoisted for a period longer then it takes to change a tire.. With my impact wrench, that takes less than a minute.

I never leave any jack, electric or manual, in suspension of holding the weight of the vehicle for too long anyway and this electric jack is prefect for just a quick lift.

[MagnusT]

I was only changing my wheels. Luckily it fell when the wheels were on. Also your jack might be totally fine, there seem to be a lot of different manufacturers. I bought mine from a local large chain of stores, not from ebay, aliexpress or so. Obviously my buying strategy didn't help :-(

[5.M0NSTER]

Got some really grippy rubber to help with lap times on the 'Ring.
Next: Heat cycling. Then: Lap Time chase.

[stulio2181]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Got some really grippy rubber to help with lap times on the 'Ring.
Next: Heat cycling. Then: Lap Time chase.

Excuse my ignorance. What is heat cycling?

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by stulio2181

Excuse my ignorance. What is heat cycling?

No worries. Track type rubber needs to be exposed to higher than street temperatures for the compound to exhibit it's high grip properties. Some manufactures like Hankook recommed getting them up to track temperatures (> 150F) and then let the tire cool overnight. Not just back to ambient temp, but a full 12h cooling cycle to allow whatever chemical reaction to happen. This way it gets to full grip.

I had a set of Ventus R-S3 on my Mustang before, and the first track day I kept pushing for grip which just wasn't there. The tires didn't grip much more than Potenza S-04 they replaced. I was sliding all over the place.

But on the next day they were sticking like glue. Since my first track day on them they were not yet heat cycled, they didn't have the grip. Heat cycling them did the trick. But I had to wait a day. I'm not sure if Cup2's need to be allowed to cool overnight. I'll know on Monday when I expose them to track temps for the first time.

P.S. Tire Rack and other tire dealers offer heat cycling as a service for an additional price. They bring the tire up to temp, and let them cool before they ship them to you. For streetable track, track and autocross, and R comp tires.

[stulio2181]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

No worries. Track type rubber needs to be exposed to higher than street temperatures for the compound to exhibit it's high grip properties. Some manufactures like Hankook recommed getting them up to track temperatures (> 150F) and then let the tire cool overnight. Not just back to ambient temp, but a full 12h cooling cycle to allow whatever chemical reaction to happen. This way it gets to full grip.

I had a set of Ventus R-S3 on my Mustang before, and the first track day I kept pushing for grip which just wasn't there. The tires didn't grip much more than Potenza S-04 they replaced. I was sliding all over the place.

But on the next day they were sticking like glue. Since my first track day on them they were not yet heat cycled, they didn't have the grip. Heat cycling them did the trick. But I had to wait a day. I'm not sure if Cup2's need to be allowed to cool overnight. I'll know on Monday when I expose them to track temps for the first time.

P.S. Tire Rack and other tire dealers offer heat cycling as a service for an additional price. They bring the tire up to temp, and let them cool before they ship them to you. For streetable track, track and autocross, and R comp tires.

Very cool. Thanks for the detailed description! I had no idea.

[detroitm2]

Perl Carbon front splitter and side skirts installed!

Bic for scale.

[Duke Silver]

Been pretty busy as of late. Put on my M2 comp mirrors and also a lightweight front lip (which is definitely not lightweight). I've got some MSS springs to go on, probably will go for a mild drop of 15mm I'm thinking.

I had Autoid mirrors previously, they did look good but the fitment wasn't 100% which bugged me...

[QM]

Fit a 50 inch tv in the trunk with rear seats down. Who needs SUVs.

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by dtmurf

Very nice! Where did you get the black valve stems and was changing them pretty easy?

https://www. tpms .com/2017-BMW-M2-TPMS-s/7781.htm

You have the option of selecting black for an extra $5

(Just delete the spaces, the forum blocks the website)

[MR_M2]

Originally Posted by QM

Fit a 50 inch tv in the trunk with rear seats down. Who needs SUVs.

People who need bigger TVs?

[Aversion]

Originally Posted by Imperial328i

We own the same kayak sir. I use my F30 to shlep it around.

Nice! My wife has the same model but in a teal color. My truck comes in really handy for hauling them around.

[5.M0NSTER]

So I spent another day devoted to my recent hobby. Catching Porsche's at Nurburgring. Why you ask? Because there is so damn many of them!!

But I'd still take one.

[Imperial328i]

Installed a yellow IND start button, still waiting for my yellow air-leather Black Forest Industries shift knob to be shipped

[Saanen]

With a little help from Nezil/Neil (OK, he really made it happen, i grabbed a wrench or two)...I now have the aluminum and carbon fiber braces where there was a relatively feeble steel brace system. This had an immediately apparent impact...kind of a cake and eat it too situation, the steering became even quicker, more planted feeling with less "noise" ....AND....more supple. It really feels that it is the way it is 'supposed to be"....not massive, but immediately obvious. In an attempt to quantify this subjective change I would say the steering "quickness" improved by 20% improved (and I have Ohlins), the "planted" /less noise in the front suspension improvement was 15% and as far as improving ride quality I would also give a 15% improvement. So I would say it was worth the approx $2K investment so for those with a M2 OG or LCI I would give this a solid thumbs up!!!
PS The Dinan CAI did not fit so reverted back to stock, it sounds like it will fit if you leave the angle braces in, but then it may contact hood...we opted to revert for now...more on that later.