[ddk632]

Hello,

Anyone here running the Ohlins?

I've installed the BMS MR40 on my M2, and am trying to figure out for certain how to count the clicks properly.

Most of my searches have come up with "N clicks from full stiff" but they don't say what "full stiff" means. The manual that came with the kit does not explain at all how to count the clicks (from which end).

I found some other Ohlins manual online, but not for the right product, that explained "full stiff" is "full close" meaning turn clockwise all the way, as in screwing a screw, then turn counter-clockwise and count the clicks on the way back to get the desired setting of clicks from "full stiff" position, which was labeled "position 0".

A bit of context, maybe someone can tell me I'm crazy or not.

- Installed BMS MR40 Ohlins R&T Shocks w/F87 rated 90NM/190NM Ohlins springs, purchased brand new

- Ohlins manual says:
-- Setting adjustment
--- Track 2-7 clicks
--- Winding road 5-10 clicks
--- Street 10-20 clicks

- Counted the total clicks to be 30 on both front and rear shocks

- Set clicks to 15 out from full closed, which obviously is correct regardless of which side you start at!

- Drove car for about 600 miles while I let the suspension settle, driving on old tires, before alignment was done (waited for suspension to settle)

- Yesterday: Installed new Michelin MP4S, car felt like a new car, still same level of stiffness, etc., driving same roads.

- Last night: Adjusted the front height down by 1/2" and at the same time, due to upcoming "Winding road" trip, adjusted the dampening settings on all 4 corners to 10 clicks (again, went full clockwise, the counted back 10 clicks counter clockwise on each corner)

- This morning: Did an alignment, set up for spirited driving compromised for a daily driver. 0 toe in front, 1/32 rear, camber was left mostly untouched except small changes to match right/left side both front and rear (less than 0.3 degree on any one corner)

- Did a drive that may have involved some higher speeds on a freeway that has not the best pavement.

I know there are a lot of variables here with the alignment and front 0 toe which will set the car a bit more aggressive to turn but also a bit less stable at high speeds in a straight line. That I am good with. Car feels amazing there.

But for some reason, the car feel like it has more bounce than the last 600 miles, which I am attributing to what I understand/believe would be softer dampening settings.

So, my question is, anyone know what full stiff really means with the Ohlins? Am I doing it wrong?

And, could adjusting alignment affect the car's handling to make it feel softer even on what are correctly firmer dampening settings?

Thanks!

[GMWNashville]

If im not mistaken counter clockwise is full soft. The last M2 we set up we softened the car up quite a bit-I think roughly 20 clicks from full stiff. I personally dont love the spring rates the kit came with-also what sway bars are you using?

[ddk632]

Stock sway bar
So to be clear, you are saying all the way counter clockwise is full soft, and all the way clockwise is full stiff?

[ddk632]

Got it sorted. Installer error, the rear was off (wrong perspective of which way was clockwise) the front was correct. So it was 10 clicks front, 20 clicks rear. Doh.

Car is perfect now.

[eatingpizzainthef87rules]

Had the same issue when I first set them up - was running 3 front and 17 back lol - horribly snappy

[dcmac]

Would love to hear more of your thoughts on how you find these coilovers once you’ve done more miles... I am considering a set myself.
Particularly interested in their performance on track, and how they feel in a DD scenario. I think the stock suspension is too bouncy day to day... I feel it get quite unsettled going over onramp bumps at speed etc. cheers!

[ddk632]

Will do!

About to drop 2000 miles on them this weekend in the mountains around Tail of the Dragon, including driving there and back from Miami.

[MagnusT]

After trying out different settings I've ended up at 5 clicks at the front and 10 clicks at the rear. I use this setting for daily, autox and track. Had a guy from Öhlins here in Sweden ride with me on track and he was very pleased with the cars behaviour. But to be honest, what setting you choose is a matter of taste, there is no single "correct" setting.

I've done 50 000 km on them including two Swedish winters.

[ddk632]

I've done about 3000 miles or so now on the Ohlins including some "winding mountain roads" type driving.

I initially had 15 clicks all around for highway/around town driving and was very happy. Before heading to the mountains, I set it to 10 clicks all around, and was amazed how the car felt in the turns and changes of direction, just pure sex.

Having returned from the mountains, I have left the 10 clicks on all 4 corners and find down here in South Florida, with some of these freeway interchanges, they have noticeable sections in the pavement probably similar to what dcmac had mentioned, which the harder setting exacerbates (only bothers me in these few turns, which are the only fun we get down here for an M2).

It doesn't bother me on straights, the car is very crisp going over pavement separations when both wheels are pointed straight. However, when those pavement separations are on a fast turn, along with my somewhat aggressive alignment (0 toe in front), it feels like the car is going over each separation one wheel at a time, and making a hard bounce, very quickly to each side, on left, then right, then left, etc., which is very unnerving in a turn!

I have no issues daily driving the Ohlins but I like a firm, sporty ride. And I do believe that putting it to 20 or 25 clicks would be closer to the bounce/softness of the stock M2 suspension, if one were to desire that.

At 15 clicks all around for highway/regular driving, that was not such a noticeable issue, but the Ohlins still felt stiffer than stock and not at all bouncy/bumpy; so I find 15 clicks all around is perfect for my car and where I drive it most - another factor in addition to taste I think is worth mentioning.

And, next time back in the mountains, I'll put it back to 10 or even try 5-7 clicks.

The only other thing worth a mention, noted in many threads, is the extra cabin noise due to metal on metal application of camber plates. It's noticeable on the freeway, but after a few thousand miles I've gotten used to it, and no longer even notice or think about it. It's also possible that things have bedded in/settled and the noise has actually been reduced. It'll still be a louder cabin than stock, regardless.

Hoping to report from a track day not too long in the future!

[F87_LCI]

I haven't been to the track yet with this car, but for DD I find them to be much better than the stock suspension. I think I am on 18 clicks or around there. Roads here are hit and miss, some nice, some not so. Still stiff, but no more rear chatter like with the stock set up. When I go to the track will probably try 5 clicks...seems to be what most are using. I wouldn't consider myself a "well seasoned" track guy anyway, so probably could just leave the set up where it is to be honest, lol.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by F87_LCI

I haven't been to the track yet with this car, but for DD I find them to be much better than the stock suspension. I think I am on 18 clicks or around there. Roads here are hit and miss, some nice, some not so. Still stiff, but no more rear chatter like with the stock set up. When I go to the track will probably try 5 clicks...seems to be what most are using. I wouldn't consider myself a "well seasoned" track guy anyway, so probably could just leave the set up where it is to be honest, lol.

How many miles do you have on them? I know they recommend rebuilds pretty frequently. I'm not sure I'd wanna deal with taking them off every year.

[gsrbri]

I have the R&T and the recommended spring rates for the M2. Running at 10 clicks all around. For the street, this is a bit firm - quite a bit of jiggle from the firm rebound. Going to experiment this weekend with 15-20 clicks for around town.

Upcoming track days, I'll plan on starting at 10 and working down from there.

Overall, I love the suspension, grip, and it's even better with the camber plates, corner balance, and -2.0 deg alignment up front

[dcmac]

Originally Posted by ddk632

I've done about 3000 miles or so now on the Ohlins including some "winding mountain roads" type driving.

I initially had 15 clicks all around for highway/around town driving and was very happy. Before heading to the mountains, I set it to 10 clicks all around, and was amazed how the car felt in the turns and changes of direction, just pure sex.

Having returned from the mountains, I have left the 10 clicks on all 4 corners and find down here in South Florida, with some of these freeway interchanges, they have noticeable sections in the pavement probably similar to what dcmac had mentioned, which the harder setting exacerbates (only bothers me in these few turns, which are the only fun we get down here for an M2).

It doesn't bother me on straights, the car is very crisp going over pavement separations when both wheels are pointed straight. However, when those pavement separations are on a fast turn, along with my somewhat aggressive alignment (0 toe in front), it feels like the car is going over each separation one wheel at a time, and making a hard bounce, very quickly to each side, on left, then right, then left, etc., which is very unnerving in a turn!

I have no issues daily driving the Ohlins but I like a firm, sporty ride. And I do believe that putting it to 20 or 25 clicks would be closer to the bounce/softness of the stock M2 suspension, if one were to desire that.

At 15 clicks all around for highway/regular driving, that was not such a noticeable issue, but the Ohlins still felt stiffer than stock and not at all bouncy/bumpy; so I find 15 clicks all around is perfect for my car and where I drive it most - another factor in addition to taste I think is worth mentioning.

And, next time back in the mountains, I'll put it back to 10 or even try 5-7 clicks.

The only other thing worth a mention, noted in many threads, is the extra cabin noise due to metal on metal application of camber plates. It's noticeable on the freeway, but after a few thousand miles I've gotten used to it, and no longer even notice or think about it. It's also possible that things have bedded in/settled and the noise has actually been reduced. It'll still be a louder cabin than stock, regardless.

Hoping to report from a track day not too long in the future!

Awesome feedback. I hadn't read about the increase in cabin noise. I don't do a lot of freeway driving so not a huge deal, unless it's very noticeable around town? My cabin is loud AF as it is with a catless exhaust lol so ideally I don't add any extra noise if I can help it

[ddk632]

Originally Posted by dcmac

Awesome feedback. I hadn't read about the increase in cabin noise. I don't do a lot of freeway driving so not a huge deal, unless it's very noticeable around town? My cabin is loud AF as it is with a catless exhaust lol so ideally I don't add any extra noise if I can help it

You won't notice it around town with an already loud cabin, I wouldn't even worry.

[tke743]

For what it's worth, on an F80 M3 (same ohlins, M2 spring rates) I run 15 clicks front and back for daily on rough roads, 6F/4R on a dry track with R-comps and 8F/6R on track in the rain with street tires.

Softens the harshness on the daily and it is dead neutral on the track both in the dry and wet.

[specka]

I have these fitted to my M2, today whilst driving to work I heard a very loud bang when I went over a very minor bump on road at approx 50km/h. I perceived it to come from the front left wheel. It was loud enough that I stopped and checked my tyre hadn't burst. There is no visible issue with the tyre or wheel and the ride height looks fine.
I have the Ohlins default configuration spring rates and am running at a teeth loosening 10 clicks.

Does anyone have this experience with theirs?

[ddk632]

How big waa the bump? Was the bang metallic sounding or something else?

Fwiw, mine are set to 10 clicks on all 4 corners over the last 10k miles, and few times I've hit this one pothole where there is a loud bang type sound, but to be fair bang was similar when I hit that pothole with my stock suspension. Took me a few times on that road (main road to/from freeway in my area) to remember the exact spot of the stupid pothole, lol.

The pothole bang is cringeworthy and I'm sure not good for the suspension. Maybe the bump you hit was larger than you perceived?

[dcmac]

Just updating from my end as I just had my first track day with the Ohlins and a few days driving around potholed Denver.

On track the car is now even more of a weapon. Go Kart like. I'm running 7 clicks all around. Zero toe just like @ddk632 but -2.9 camber on new Vorshlag plates and RE71R rubber. Overall, just a fantastic track setup. I think I'll go down to 5 clicks for the next event.

On the road, at 7 clicks, way too stiff for me. I'm going to attempt to set everything to 15 clicks as soon as I get the chance. I mean, it's driveable.. but they adjust, so why not?

So can anyone confirm for me one more time... if I am currently at 7 clicks from full close (full stiff) I simply need to turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE another 8 clicks to get to 15 clicks all round? I'm turning the same way regardless of which shock I'm on (Front, rear, left, right?). Car doesn't need to be jacked right?

Thx!

Quick pic:

[dcmac]

Oh, forgot to add, for those wondering if you can notice when you have camber plates vs stock... I have only noticed when hitting large juts in the road - that's when I hear a bit of a metal on metal 'clunk'. Not a big deal. At highway speeds, I can't hear sh*t over my exhaust anyway

[ddk632]

dcmac Nice!

As for settings. My suggestion, to be sure, is to go to full close and then count out 15 clicks. I redid mine a few times because sometimes you can get like a half click sound that isnt a click. But you can feel the clicks.

Maybe I'm a bit over anal but I would do it that way.

Fulll close is clockwise just like any screw, so to get more clicks it would be anti-clockwise. Less clicks is clockwise, ie tightening the screw. Same direction on all 4 corners (my installer messed this up and I had an M2 pogo stick for a day, lmao).

As for needing to raise the car it will make it a hell of a lot easier. I haven't tried to reach the clicker without the car raised, so can't say if its doable or not.

[dcmac]

Ok guys I have what I think may be a stupid question...

If you are under the car looking up at the rear Ohlins damper adjuster knob, if you turn it “clockwise” it will actually be going “counterclockwise” if you were doing it from upright / outside the wheel. So which position are Ohlins assuming you are turning the knob from??

[dcmac]

Originally Posted by ddk632

dcmac Nice!

As for settings. My suggestion, to be sure, is to go to full close and then count out 15 clicks. I redid mine a few times because sometimes you can get like a half click sound that isnt a click. But you can feel the clicks.

Maybe I'm a bit over anal but I would do it that way.

Fulll close is clockwise just like any screw, so to get more clicks it would be anti-clockwise. Less clicks is clockwise, ie tightening the screw. Same direction on all 4 corners (my installer messed this up and I had an M2 pogo stick for a day, lmao).

As for needing to raise the car it will make it a hell of a lot easier. I haven't tried to reach the clicker without the car raised, so can't say if its doable or not.

See my last post.. I’m going crazy!