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      07-02-2018, 02:26 AM   #23
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I guess now my only concern is if I install these my dealership will be asking questions
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      07-03-2018, 11:31 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by eeyang92 View Post


I guess now my only concern is if I install these my dealership will be asking questions
Just tell them you are trying to enjoy the ultimate driving machine!
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      07-03-2018, 04:34 PM   #25
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Just tell them you are trying to enjoy the ultimate driving machine!
Haha I know you're kidding, but dealerships will literally look for any small thing out of place to void your warranty (ask me how I know...). Not their fault I guess, since technically they'd be on the hook if BMW denies their payment for the warranty work.
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      07-03-2018, 05:36 PM   #26
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[QUOTE=eeyang92;23411035]
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Originally Posted by CryptoM2 View Post
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Not their fault I guess, since technically they'd be on the hook if BMW denies their payment for the warranty work.
Too true but part of this is also due to the dealer/service department.

I had my 1er in for service: Front rotors, pads, brake fluid, oil & filter, can't remember what else. All warranty work tho.

I took the car back and, when braking and turning hard left, there was a knock that you could feel in the wheel and pedals after I got it back.

When I took it back (30 min), the dealer blamed it on a USB cable I had routed from the console, under the dash and up the steering column. I had to remove the cable before they would even let the tech look at the car.

Turns out the tech that did the brakes bent a power steering hose and it was hitting something when the wheel was full lock left.

Stuff happens, not an issue. It is how you handle it that counts in my book. Don't use that dealer for anything anymore if I can avoid it.
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      09-27-2018, 07:24 AM   #27
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Ran continuously for over an hour nonstop at Watkins Glen with terminal speeds of 140+ mph. Experienced no brake fade the entire session.
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      10-01-2018, 09:19 PM   #28
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I was at njmp this weekend and started to experience fade on the front straight of thunderbolt. Was only going 130mph, but was still experiencing some fade by the end of the day. I have rs29 pads that work well until the brakes get hot. Might need to try and rig some type of brake duct system before Summit in a couple weeks. Will probably swap out the brake fluid to rbf. Glad to hear the brake ducts work well!
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      01-14-2019, 10:15 PM   #29
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Has anyone tried the Lightweight brake cooling kit? They don’t have any installed pictures, wondering how well their kit works and where the ducts are situated.
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      01-15-2019, 08:45 AM   #30
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Sweet DIY! I’m curious if there are any kits or scoops out there which collect air at the front grill/lip area. Under the arm like shown here is also a good spot, it would just be nice if they were a bit more out of harms way.

I’ll be tuning Nordschleife and Hockenheim later this year. Planning on PFC08 pads, but based on my experience it’s just a matter of time before I get fade as I learn the tracks and get faster.
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      01-22-2019, 09:32 PM   #31
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Hello!

I wanted to add my set up for brake cooling. I bought this kit from Chinese company BP-Engineering. They make some other carbon bits, titanium charge pipes, turbo kit and some suspension bits and bobs.

It replaces the stock undertray with one that has two ducts out the front, fed with tubes to the front brake dust shield.

Brake backing and undertray are carbon, but the undertray can be opted for a cheaper material (i think fibreglass, unsure).

Images are attached!

Not too difficult to install, but had to remove calipers and rotors to get to the backplate. The undertray fits perfectly into the same spot the stock undertray fits.
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      01-22-2019, 10:15 PM   #32
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Oh I forgot to post my experiences.

I got this kit because I usually track at a heavy braking track (two long straights with hard braking to corner) and previously my brakes would heat up and fade after only 2 laps going hard. The weight and speed to brake down to a 90 degree corner is just very hard on the stock brakes, and since there's no flow to the brakes it just stays heated.

I can happily report with these ducts I can now do 30 min sessions with little to no fade. I do a cooldown lap about every 10 mins just to help it further, but I probably could get away with not even doing that.

The brake ducts for me are a must.

Edit: The test I did was on a different track to the one I reported about two long straights, will be going back to that one later (must harder braking circuit) and will report back then!

Last edited by codylikerice; 01-25-2019 at 09:50 PM..
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      01-23-2019, 03:14 AM   #33
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I like that setup a lot! Thanks for posting.

Did it come with all the hardware needed to mount? Could you post a link to manufacture’s page?

Glad to hear you don’t have fade issues any more. Which pads do you use?
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      01-23-2019, 03:38 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codylikerice View Post
Hello!

I wanted to add my set up for brake cooling. I bought this kit from Chinese company BP-Engineering.

It replaces the stock undertray with one that has two ducts out the front, fed with tubes to the front brake dust shield.

Brake backing and undertray are carbon, but the undertray can be opted for a cheaper material (i think fibreglass, unsure).
I like this solution a lot - big oversight by BMW IMHO that OG M2 has zero brake cooling - esp if BP-Engineering do an ABS plastic or FG undertray variant as CF is pricey and too brittle/vulnerable for the undertray....
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      01-23-2019, 03:41 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER View Post
I like that setup a lot! Thanks for posting.

Did it come with all the hardware needed to mount? Could you post a link to manufacture’s page?
http://www.bp-motorsport.com/?page_id=9952

Part of an CF aero dress up package they sell - I've messaged them asking if the sell just undertray separately and if it can be bought made from a cheaper/more resilient material ie ABS plastic....
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      01-23-2019, 09:16 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
http://www.bp-motorsport.com/?page_id=9952

Part of an CF aero dress up package they sell - I've messaged them asking if the sell just undertray separately and if it can be bought made from a cheaper/more resilient material ie ABS plastic....
For those of us in North America, I see that EAS sells a charge pipe kit from BP-Engineering. I wonder if they’d be willing to support a group buy of just the undertray, backing plates and hose as a kit.

BP sure are proud of their stuff. Are you happy with figment/quality?
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      01-23-2019, 09:18 AM   #37
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Are you happy with figment/quality?
Ben - Not bought one yet so can't comment. BP
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      01-23-2019, 01:28 PM   #38
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Thank you for posting the link. I really like the tray idea, and now I'm suffering from sticker shock.

What do you guys think the price would be if it was just the tray, shields hoses and hardware? Half? Less?
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      01-23-2019, 05:55 PM   #39
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I like the tray idea as well but don't need the rest of the kit. If anyone finds out more, please post to the thread.
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      01-23-2019, 08:21 PM   #40
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Hello! Just going to answer all the questions I saw here.

Yes I believe they sell individual parts. I spoke/bought from them directly. Don't think their English is terribly good, but I didn't have any hassles. Paid them via paypal directly and they sent it to me. Initially they told me the one they got produced was not good so they reproduced one and sent me another. In terms of quality of the tray, pipes and back plate, pretty much flawless. I believe it is CFRP. Oh, it doesn't come with hose clamps though, so I just went down to my hardware store and bought 4 for about $8.

Manufacturer's page someone else posted correctly. Not the best website, I found it best emailing back and forth with them. I think they focus more on Chinese market so their foreign marketing isn't great.

In terms of install, you do need to drill the holes for where all the screws go in, the tray comes as one piece, no holes (they are all the same spots as the OEM tray) and they are easy to do because the mould has where all the holes are. The tray is exactly the same size as OEM tray, just with the two ducts. I drilled with a simple hand drill. Fitment is exactly the same as the OEM tray (you need to wiggle around a bit to get it in place for all of the 20 or however many screws, which I've had the same experience with the OEM tray so no issue.

Same with the brake back plates, exact same size as the OEM metal one, screw into place the same way, its the same mould just with the hole for piping. Just need to remove the brake caliper then the rotor to have access, which is easy to do (2 x 18mm bolts for the caliper, and small hex for the rotors). I didn't even unplug the caliper, just put it in my lap with the rotor while I screwed the back plate in.

You do need to remove the (unsure of the name) screw mounting things on the front of the undertray that goes under the bumper so the screws can screw into something. It's difficult to explain because I don't know the names of the stuff, but really not difficult to install, they don't have an instruction manual and I just winged it and it really easy.

The piping is pretty tough stuff, it has a metal wire in the fabric. It was a pain in the ass for me to cut because I didn't have a proper wire cutter so I was using a flat head and a hammer and you get the picture lol! The piping to the holes is a tight fit, but once its on its pretty much perfect.

I found myself driving home the first day and the bottom pipe came undone. Realised I didn't tighten the hose clamp enough.

The next day was the track day, and it withstood 2.5 hours (around 200km) of hard driving on a very fast track with lots of camber and turning, so I was super happy with it. Only thing I think I will add is a grate, I think there's rocks and rubber that went in, but not sure. No holes or anything after the day though.

For the person asking what pads I use, on the track I use Pagid RSL29.

I can take some more pics if you guys want to see more, let me know what you want to see.

Last edited by codylikerice; 01-23-2019 at 08:35 PM..
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      01-24-2019, 07:44 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codylikerice View Post
Hello! Just going to answer all the questions I saw here.

Yes I believe they sell individual parts. I spoke/bought from them directly. Don't think their English is terribly good, but I didn't have any hassles. Paid them via paypal directly and they sent it to me. Initially they told me the one they got produced was not good so they reproduced one and sent me another. In terms of quality of the tray, pipes and back plate, pretty much flawless. I believe it is CFRP. Oh, it doesn't come with hose clamps though, so I just went down to my hardware store and bought 4 for about $8.

Manufacturer's page someone else posted correctly. Not the best website, I found it best emailing back and forth with them. I think they focus more on Chinese market so their foreign marketing isn't great.

In terms of install, you do need to drill the holes for where all the screws go in, the tray comes as one piece, no holes (they are all the same spots as the OEM tray) and they are easy to do because the mould has where all the holes are. The tray is exactly the same size as OEM tray, just with the two ducts. I drilled with a simple hand drill. Fitment is exactly the same as the OEM tray (you need to wiggle around a bit to get it in place for all of the 20 or however many screws, which I've had the same experience with the OEM tray so no issue.

Same with the brake back plates, exact same size as the OEM metal one, screw into place the same way, its the same mould just with the hole for piping. Just need to remove the brake caliper then the rotor to have access, which is easy to do (2 x 18mm bolts for the caliper, and small hex for the rotors). I didn't even unplug the caliper, just put it in my lap with the rotor while I screwed the back plate in.

You do need to remove the (unsure of the name) screw mounting things on the front of the undertray that goes under the bumper so the screws can screw into something. It's difficult to explain because I don't know the names of the stuff, but really not difficult to install, they don't have an instruction manual and I just winged it and it really easy.

The piping is pretty tough stuff, it has a metal wire in the fabric. It was a pain in the ass for me to cut because I didn't have a proper wire cutter so I was using a flat head and a hammer and you get the picture lol! The piping to the holes is a tight fit, but once its on its pretty much perfect.

I found myself driving home the first day and the bottom pipe came undone. Realised I didn't tighten the hose clamp enough.

The next day was the track day, and it withstood 2.5 hours (around 200km) of hard driving on a very fast track with lots of camber and turning, so I was super happy with it. Only thing I think I will add is a grate, I think there's rocks and rubber that went in, but not sure. No holes or anything after the day though.

For the person asking what pads I use, on the track I use Pagid RSL29.

I can take some more pics if you guys want to see more, let me know what you want to see.
What was your pricing for just the brake tray and ducts?
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      01-24-2019, 09:04 PM   #42
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Hello!

In terms of pricing, the website doesn't give the breakdown, but they sell each part. Here are the prices they gave me which is what I bought for (pictured).
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      01-25-2019, 03:22 PM   #43
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GREAT info!!


Can you do full lock without rubbing the hoses?


And can it be used without their splitter? $441 is very reasonable for the undertray with scoops.

Last edited by MagnusT; 01-25-2019 at 03:53 PM..
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      01-25-2019, 09:54 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
GREAT info!!


Can you do full lock without rubbing the hoses?


And can it be used without their splitter? $441 is very reasonable for the undertray with scoops.
Hello!

Yes full lock either side no issues at all with the tubes. The tubes are cut by yourself, so you can make them as long or short as you like. They can bend and contract (the wire is in a coil) so its not an issue.

From the bottom undertray, it fits neatly in between in the kink of the anti roll bar, and then into the wheel well. Personally I use zip ties to keep it tied to the (not sure of the name EDIT: read the first post and learned it is called the A bar ) bar that is connected to the wheel, but its really not necessary.

Yes, if you look at my pictures, I only have the undertray, pipes and brake back plates, you don't need the splitter. The ducts are located in the kinks of the bottom of the front bumper.

Highly recommend!! I'm going to the track again this Sunday, this track is different to the last I tested at (its a very very hard braking circuit which i struggled to keep brakes cool at previously because it has two long straights), so I will report back. My feeling from the other track is I'm gonna have no temp problems anymore.

I will set aside some time to get some more shots for you guys so you can see it all as much as possible. Unfortunately BP don't have many pictures of everything so it should help.

Last edited by codylikerice; 01-25-2019 at 09:55 PM.. Reason: Learned name of the A-bar
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