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      12-28-2020, 07:04 PM   #1
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PSA - Safely removing wheels with CCB

Put this montage together for ya'll.

Is it perfect? No. Does it work? Yes. Is it better than nothing? Yes.

Here is the wheel dolly I used.

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      12-28-2020, 07:27 PM   #2
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Though the video title was reassuring, I got a little nervous when looking at the work in progress.

Suggestion: ask someone (significant other, one of your kids or a friend) to assist you in simply holding the dolly stable while you're positioning the wheel. Now it looked as if the dolly could wobble, wiggle or slide away. And we all know that if, during one false move, the alloy violently kicks the brake disc, it's almost certainly mayhem.

Kudos for courage, like an ibex on a dam:

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      12-28-2020, 07:33 PM   #3
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I trust myself to remove a lightweight alloy wheel without bumping the rotor with significantly more confidence and safety than this method. I am surprised you would even share a video with that sound that happened at 2:07. This is not the way. (Anti-Madalorian)
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      12-28-2020, 07:39 PM   #4
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Nice work! Thanks for all of your vids, enjoying them. I'm days away from getting mine which is the same spec as yours!

When you were taking the wheel off part of the initial jerk was caused by the wheels of the dolly being perpendicular to the direction they needed to go. I'd suggest that if you could (either before or after loading pressure) turn the wheels of the dolly by hand so they are pointed the right direct it might alleviate the jerk into that backing shield that you hit.

Though, after seeing how difficult and unnerving that was I'm definitely going to go with some 80mm studs https://ind-distribution.com/product...onversion-80mm
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      12-28-2020, 07:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
I trust myself to remove a lightweight alloy wheel without bumping the rotor with significantly more confidence and safety than this method. I am surprised you would even share a video with that sound that happened at 2:07. This is not the way. (Anti-Madalorian)
I say keep it real. Post the uh oh moments. Or add some outtakes at the end with those. I think it's important to give the viewers the perspective that what might seem simple could now take on a slightly different form.
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      12-28-2020, 08:01 PM   #6
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I'm curious for those of you with CCB. Do you have this expectation that the technicians, that will inevitably work on your car one day, will show the same amount of care and caution when removing your wheels? Most places don't allow customers in the shop. It seems highly likely a small ding would happen here and there.
What's the best way to make sure they don't damage your $8k brakes.

OP, I applaud you for your passion and care for your car.
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      12-28-2020, 08:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCBavarian View Post
I'm curious for those of you with CCB. Do you have this expectation that the technicians, that will inevitably work on your car one day, will show the same amount of care and caution when removing your wheels? Most places don't allow customers in the shop. It seems highly likely a small ding would happen here and there.
What's the best way to make sure they don't damage your $8k brakes.

OP, I applaud you for your passion and care for your car.
I expect that they won't. My friend is a 20yr master tech at a BMW dealer and he's the only one there that I have work on my 1M. In speaking with him about the actual dolly from the BMW service manual, he just smirked and said 'We don't even have one of those, just be careful'. If he's not going to be concerned about it then I know nobody else in that shop would. haha. I still trust my hands more than I would a dolly like this. Too many things to go wrong.
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      12-28-2020, 09:17 PM   #8
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It is easy to over complicate things. At the end of the day you also have to make sure these brakes don't make you miserable worrying about them. I think a lot of the negatives are over hyped. Watching these videos seems to show that the back of the disc is well protected. I think it's unfortunate that you have to run a block off for the air duct for street use reduce probability of stone damage, but the cooling is likely unnecessary for daily duties. It would be really unfortunate to damage the wheel during removal. I would only get them serviced at bmw. No more tires at Costco.
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      12-28-2020, 09:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GimmeanM View Post
Nice work! Thanks for all of your vids, enjoying them. I'm days away from getting mine which is the same spec as yours!

When you were taking the wheel off part of the initial jerk was caused by the wheels of the dolly being perpendicular to the direction they needed to go. I'd suggest that if you could (either before or after loading pressure) turn the wheels of the dolly by hand so they are pointed the right direct it might alleviate the jerk into that backing shield that you hit.

Though, after seeing how difficult and unnerving that was I'm definitely going to go with some 80mm studs https://ind-distribution.com/product...onversion-80mm
I am pretty sure it was not the dolly wheels (although caster wheels will create lateral movement when they rotate to the direction of travel) that created the loud metallic sound. That was the hub centric mount popping out of the wheel's center bore. The whole car settled. I really don't think this is the method to use.

Keep it real, sure. "Here is what I tried....but it didn't work" is the take home message here. Don't try to load match your floor jack and your wheel dolly. It won't work.
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      12-28-2020, 10:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by GimmeanM View Post
Nice work! Thanks for all of your vids, enjoying them. I'm days away from getting mine which is the same spec as yours!

When you were taking the wheel off part of the initial jerk was caused by the wheels of the dolly being perpendicular to the direction they needed to go. I'd suggest that if you could (either before or after loading pressure) turn the wheels of the dolly by hand so they are pointed the right direct it might alleviate the jerk into that backing shield that you hit.

Though, after seeing how difficult and unnerving that was I'm definitely going to go with some 80mm studs https://ind-distribution.com/product...onversion-80mm
I am pretty sure it was not the dolly wheels (although caster wheels will create lateral movement when they rotate to the direction of travel) that created the loud metallic sound. That was the hub centric mount popping out of the wheel's center bore. The whole car settled. I really don't think this is the method to use.

Keep it real, sure. "Here is what I tried....but it didn't work" is the take home message here. Don't try to load match your floor jack and your wheel dolly. It won't work.
I didn't think it was the dolly wheels making the noise but rather the barrel of the wheel hitting the backing plate behind the rotor.
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      12-28-2020, 10:31 PM   #11
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I've had multiple vehicles with CCB's and removed the wheels myself many times without issue. Pretty sure you have to be pretty careless to bang a wheel into your rotor hard enough to damage them. Even a little bit of caution and effort will make everything just fine.
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      12-29-2020, 05:28 AM   #12
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I chose to post what I posted because it was less than perfect and it is the real world. The sound was indeed the wheel hitting the disc backing plate and the bottom of the caliper touching the wheel. Nothing happened, but it made a sound.

I do think a better solution would be to use very long wheel hangers but I have not found any that are super long.
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      12-29-2020, 07:14 AM   #13
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#2 on the list of reasons I didn't get CCB's! I've watch too many Porsche guys fidget with their "sensitive" brakes at the track.

I don't have the patience to handle all that just to change wheels from street to track(summer to winter, whatever).
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      12-29-2020, 03:01 PM   #14
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OK... What am I missing here..
Why wouldn't he just use wheel stud hangers..
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Last edited by Zuzu; 12-29-2020 at 03:08 PM..
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