10-10-2018, 03:31 PM | #23 | |
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10-10-2018, 06:32 PM | #24 |
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I track a lot, and the Pagid RS29s are the truth for me. I've been able to do 6 three day track events before I have to replace them. They are noisy on the street, but that adds to the cool factor. But if you need to switch them out, pad changes are super easy. If you're looking for a more aggressive sound, why not just get a high flow sport cat (Fabspeed?) which also gives you more power and sounds fantastic with the stock exhaust.
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10-10-2018, 09:58 PM | #25 | |
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https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...ront-and-rear/
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10-10-2018, 10:53 PM | #26 |
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10-11-2018, 02:27 AM | #27 | |
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granted i have pfc08s but when i pull into a gas station, i get people cringing and coming up to me telling me theres something with my car. pads get switched out asap when im done with my track days |
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10-11-2018, 12:23 PM | #30 |
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Great questions and advice in this thread. I'll throw in my .02 since I used to do a lot of track driving. Haven't yet had the opportunity to take my M2 on track (I have driven BMW's car on their track).
- Braided brake lines are pretty. Actual benefit is minimal to none. - Frequent brake fluid flush is mandatory, fresh fluid, high temp fluid not as important as it being fresh. - My experience with dedicated brake pads is that I prefer to swap rotors with pads, so that I've got comparable material buildup on the rotors, when switching back and forth between street and track. Yes, it's expensive. Because Racecar, LOL. - A harness is the best money you'll spend. Why? Because aside from the safety factor, it holds you in place, resulting in better car control and less driver fatigue. Consider (not suggesting, just sayin'...) disconnecting all of your airbags if you are using a harness. You won't need all of the explosions, and you'll save a crapload of money when it comes time to fix the car. - Learn to drive - really drive well, before spending money on track tires. If you, excuse me, when you have an incident on track, better that it be at slightly lower speeds. More time for recovery (if possible) and less damage to car (if not possible). These freakin' little freakin' cars are so freakin' fast out of the box, with street tires, that it's positively scary in the hands of a competent driver. Back when I was instructing HPDE I would routinely get the poo-poo scared out of me with E46 non-M cars. Amp it up with race tires, and you are pulling some serious Gs in the turns and making speeds that you may not be able to walk away from should the unthinkable happen. Shoot, this response is making me rethink the idea of going back on track. Yes, I've hit the wall a few times. Both as a student and as instructor. Trust me, it's not pleasant. Also, my experience with race pads is that they are very aggressive, which is of course the point, so they wear quickly, they generate huge amounts of dust and don't work well when cold. Yes, they work better at high temperatures and on tracks like Road America. I'll suggest that at the end of long straights like RA or VIR where you will be pushing huge speeds, you are learning nothing. You can top out at 100 MPH and save your car and your brakes a bit of wear, or you can top out at 140 and use up everything faster, and like I said, learn nothing more. People used to ask me how fast I went on the track, and I'd answer (semi-honestly) that I'd usually go faster on the Interstate getting to the track than I actually did on track. Sure, I saw 145 once, but it was quite an experience getting the car down to about 60 to make the turn at the end of the straight.
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10-16-2018, 09:45 PM | #32 | |
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-Schroth Quick Fit Pro - Boatload of new and used HAWK DTC 60 and 70 track pads - Dinan exhaust and Resonator Delete straight pipe - Vorshlag F87 Camber Plates -Apex EC7 18x10 square ET25 |
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10-16-2018, 10:18 PM | #33 | |
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For the stock pads & brake fluid-- they're absolutely great. Unless you're on the track. If it's not your very first track day, swap the pads and fluids. Do this first.
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10-17-2018, 06:42 PM | #34 |
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Is it worthwhile to upgrade sway bars? I don't want to make the everyday driving experience too harsh.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-afe-part...-503001-n~afe/
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10-17-2018, 07:05 PM | #35 | |
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10-19-2018, 01:06 PM | #36 |
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Not sure about the hans in non-halo seat... It will help you with head on but any diagonal or side impact with a full harness turns your head into a yoyo.
I don't know how well the hybrids work but simpson I think makes one that works with 3 point belts as well as 5, 6, 7 and helps with forward AND side head movements. It braces against your body vs the harness though... |
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10-19-2018, 02:40 PM | #37 | |
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I don't get the point of a simpson hybrid. You don't need a HANS for a 3 point seatbelt, the seatbelt stretches and allows your upper body to move forward with your head where in a harness it keeps your body pinned back while your head snaps forward. It also does very little for side to side movement protection. |
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10-19-2018, 03:29 PM | #38 | |
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We run hans ultralite and racetech halo with window and center net in our car and the hans feels great. With the halo it keeps the side impact (or forces) at bay as well. Sitting in the passenger non halo fixed seat feels "naked" when you see a wall coming up to you on your side... Still having the hans is better than nothing even in a regular car seat assuming you have 4+ pt harness to hold it. Being that the M2C comes with a seat that does not allow for a harness pass through the hybrids looked like the only option but again - no clue how effective those are in a 3pt system despite their claims. |
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10-24-2018, 02:19 AM | #39 |
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One last comment on brake pads. If you are doing your very first track day you can get away with the stock pads. They are fine for autocross with a beginner also. Beyond that first day you are going to melt them onto your rotors (a buddy of mine did that) and ruin those expensive rotors on the front of your car. Asking a daily use pad designed for occasional stops with long periods of cooling to do what is demanded of them on a track is a total mismatch. Same with fluid, the low viscosity fluid used is great for a street car but it will boil quickly in track conditions. Same buddy figured that out when he switched to track pads but left the stock fluid in on the advice of his mechanic. Since switching to track pads and fluid he has had no issues.
The BMW Performance Driving School only uses the M2 on the autocross track because of the brakes and the fact that they run stock pads on them. For the high speed stuff they use the M3/4 with carbon brakes. My time to swap brake pads before a track day is about an hour, I have a quick jack lift so it makes it a little quicker but the pads are very easy to swap and the performance/safety benefits are well worth a little extra time. The cost savings from not destroying your expensive rotors is about what a full set of track pads will cost. Pay me now or pay me later basically. |
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11-02-2018, 10:18 AM | #40 |
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I regard to the Schroth quick fit Pro harness. A number of people use them even though are not certified for the F* cars, and actually introduce a big problem if you did get into a wreck. In short, the belts can throw you back into the seat after impact causing injury - directly from their R&D.
The HANS Sport III is only beneficially if you have "seats" and "belts - 5 or 6 point". The belts go over the HANS. They only offer cool looks and will do nothing for protection if you don't. |
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11-17-2018, 01:12 AM | #41 |
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Hello, thought I might throw my 2c in as it sounds like your situation is similar to mine when I first started tracking the m2.
I will pitch in and also say the stock pads cannot be used in a whole day track session, they simply overheat and melt too quickly, I wouldn't risk it damaging your rotors. Personally I use the Pagid RS29 and swap them in on the track day and swap back in stock pads when the day is done. A note on these pads they do require burnishing/bedding in. I've seen others use Ferodo, Endless and a whole number of other pads, but I guess any of those that are designed for track use will do as they can tolerate high heat. The stock fluid should be fine for you for now, but after 1 or 2 days you probably want to flush it with a new fluid of your choice. Personally I use brembo rcf600. I have stainless steel lines and I can say that it makes a difference at the limit, but not as dramatic as you might think. I personally wouldn't bother with it until later (if at all) as rubber lines are fine. Other than that what I found best was to just use the stock car (with track pads) and go out and learn track driving, as I quickly found out what I wanted to improve with the car just doing that (you will find it is the brakes that limit you) and then you will be on your way |
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