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      08-24-2020, 04:49 PM   #1
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M2C street/track mix setup

I recently tracked my M2 Comp at Laguna and felt the car was pretty decent at stock. However, my brake and tires are giving up after half of the 20min session. Logical upgrades would be camber plates, brake pads and fluids.

Do you guys recommend to stay with stock suspension and get the Camber plates that fits the stock spring? If I were to upgrade coilovers, I would need new camber plates right?

Also some recommendation on 2NH brake pads would be great. I've heard RS29 was very hard on rotors. Also DS1.11 might be a good choice as well.

The car meant to run ~10 trackdays per year.
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      08-24-2020, 08:13 PM   #2
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A number of suspension packages have stock sized springs, so camber plates should work for both. I run KW V3's with TC Kline plates using the oem spring adapter.

That being said, brakes would be number 1 on the list.

I run Ferodo DS1.11 pads, additionally some high temp brake fluid is recommended.
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      08-24-2020, 09:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabb View Post
I recently tracked my M2 Comp at Laguna and felt the car was pretty decent at stock. However, my brake and tires are giving up after half of the 20min session. Logical upgrades would be camber plates, brake pads and fluids.

Do you guys recommend to stay with stock suspension and get the Camber plates that fits the stock spring? If I were to upgrade coilovers, I would need new camber plates right?

Also some recommendation on 2NH brake pads would be great. I've heard RS29 was very hard on rotors. Also DS1.11 might be a good choice as well.

The car meant to run ~10 trackdays per year.
I was able to order just the parts I needed to move my Ground Control Camber plates from the stock suspension to the Ohlins R&T when I upgraded later. Cost wasn’t too bad.

On blue brakes, rotors lasted through 3 sets of RS29 pads and 20k miles. That was roughly 30 track days and OE pads were only on for a few thousand of the street miles. I didn’t consider that to be all that hard on the rotors. I can’t imagine rotor life would be much different on 2NH brakes.

I ran those first 30 days (18 months) on just pads, fluid and camber plates. Worked well. Things I’ve done since were more because I wanted to than to address any deficiencies. That gives you a good baseline to start from, and with the advantages a 2NH equipped M2C brings to the table, you’ll start from an even better spot.
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      08-24-2020, 11:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
A number of suspension packages have stock sized springs, so camber plates should work for both. I run KW V3's with TC Kline plates using the oem spring adapter.

That being said, brakes would be number 1 on the list.

I run Ferodo DS1.11 pads, additionally some high temp brake fluid is recommended.
Thanks for the info about the compatibility. I already ordered GC camber plates.

As for brakes, my plan is Castrol SRF + pads. How do you like the DS1.11 on road? It would be noisy and that's ok. Does it eat up rotors like crazy?
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      08-25-2020, 07:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabb View Post
Thanks for the info about the compatibility. I already ordered GC camber plates.

As for brakes, my plan is Castrol SRF + pads. How do you like the DS1.11 on road? It would be noisy and that's ok. Does it eat up rotors like crazy?
I don't run the DS1.11 on the street. Their pretty noisy. On track, they're pretty gentle on rotors.

One thing you can do, is get a set of DS2500's for the street. They have a similar compound to the DS1.11, so you can swap between them without rebedding the pads.

I actually only use the DS1.11's in the front, and run a DS2500 pad in the rear for track days. The slight front brake bias it generates produces pretty even wear across all 4 corners of the car.
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      08-25-2020, 08:10 AM   #6
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I have 2NH on my M2C.

I changed the fluid for Castrol SRF.
Waiting for camber plates and once they are on, putting Michelin Cup2 tires on as well.

Thinking of changing the brake pads.
It is not the first time I see that many people do not recommend Pagids, but rather Ferrodo


Is the DS1.11 a better choice for track use ?
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      08-25-2020, 08:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kart driver View Post
I have 2NH on my M2C.

I changed the fluid for Castrol SRF.
Waiting for camber plates and once they are on, putting Michelin Cup2 tires on as well.

Thinking of changing the brake pads.
It is not the first time I see that many people do not recommend Pagids, but rather Ferrodo


Is the DS1.11 a better choice for track use ?
Plenty of people run both. I can't really comment on which is better. I like the fact I can run the Ds2500s on the street and switch to the DS1.11s for the track without rebedding. That's the biggest benefit in my eyes.
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      08-25-2020, 10:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Plenty of people run both. I can't really comment on which is better. I like the fact I can run the Ds2500s on the street and switch to the DS1.11s for the track without rebedding. That's the biggest benefit in my eyes.

Yep, that is a strong argument.
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      08-25-2020, 10:11 AM   #9
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Why not DS1.11 on the rear as well?
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      08-25-2020, 10:30 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kart driver View Post
Why not DS1.11 on the rear as well?
Initially, I found a deal on the setup from another forum member who ran them.

After doing some research (and through my own testing), I noticed that due to the front brake bias, you get a more even braking feel. Additionally, the pads wear more evenly vs. just running DS1.11's all around. (You'll end up with the rears still having a lot of pad left when your fronts are smoked).
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      08-25-2020, 12:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kart driver View Post
Why not DS1.11 on the rear as well?
Initially, I found a deal on the setup from another forum member who ran them.

After doing some research (and through my own testing), I noticed that due to the front brake bias, you get a more even braking feel. Additionally, the pads wear more evenly vs. just running DS1.11's all around. (You'll end up with the rears still having a lot of pad left when your fronts are smoked).
I actually just measured my pads cause I need to order some fresh ones. I have 5mm left on both front and rear pads. It's almost an identical amount of pad left.

For reference, I've ran about 5 or 6 track days on these. They come with just over 18mm of pad material new, so I probably have 2 more days tops on these before they're toast.
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      08-27-2020, 12:40 PM   #12
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I swap between OEM pads and Pagid RS29, and I basically never need to rebed them. Swap to track pads the night before, the drive there will basically scrub off any OEM transfer layer. I take it easy the first session, but after a few laps they're pretty much ready to go. On the way home, the track pads become abrasive again due to the cold temps and I swap back to street pads.

I do keep track of which pad goes to which rotor and which side, don't know if that helps though.
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      11-28-2022, 11:20 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeyang92 View Post
I swap between OEM pads and Pagid RS29, and I basically never need to rebed them. Swap to track pads the night before, the drive there will basically scrub off any OEM transfer layer. I take it easy the first session, but after a few laps they're pretty much ready to go. On the way home, the track pads become abrasive again due to the cold temps and I swap back to street pads.

I do keep track of which pad goes to which rotor and which side, don't know if that helps though.
Have you ever had any issues with the OEM pads tearing up? I'm running PFC-08 and swapping back to my OEM pads between track days. After two months driving around with my OEM pads, they had some pretty serious chunks missing in the middle.
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Last edited by fleetfoot; 11-28-2022 at 11:42 AM..
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      12-16-2022, 12:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetfoot View Post
Have you ever had any issues with the OEM pads tearing up? I'm running PFC-08 and swapping back to my OEM pads between track days. After two months driving around with my OEM pads, they had some pretty serious chunks missing in the middle.
Sorry for the super late response, but no I have never had any issues with my OEM pads. Been running the same street pads since I got the car, now at 45k miles or so with plenty of life left, but did recently have to switch to new street pads pads because I got a BBK (different size and shape).
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      12-22-2022, 03:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeyang92 View Post
Sorry for the super late response, but no I have never had any issues with my OEM pads. Been running the same street pads since I got the car, now at 45k miles or so with plenty of life left, but did recently have to switch to new street pads pads because I got a BBK (different size and shape).
Same. Been running between OEM and PFC08 for a while
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      12-28-2022, 07:24 AM   #16
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For those of you debating between Ferodo compounds, here's an article I recently wrote on their primary three compounds, the DS2500, DS1.11, and DS3.12:

Which Ferodo Brake Pad Compound is Right for Me?



To maintain proper brake bias, we (Essex) typically recommend the same front and rear pad compound for track use. It's not as critical for road driving if you're just puttering around at low speeds. For example, if you have a set of rear OEM pads that are still usable, it's no problem to keep them on the car if you're swapping out the fronts to a different street pad when the fronts have worn out. For the track however, you A) don't want to run OEM pads period, and B) it's more important to choose the proper compounds. Most importantly, you don't want a pad compound in the rear that is higher mu than the fronts, because that will foul-up your brake bias and make the car unstable.
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