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M2 Technical Topics > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB | Recalls > Clutch Bleeding

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      07-17-2021, 11:39 PM   #45
vrooooom
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Sharing some photos of the original that came off the M2.

I counted the turns of the bleeder and it's 4-1/2 turns before the screw will fall off (full lock to falling off). Might be nice to know since after that it'll just fall off. You can literally turn this using your fingers with medium effort.







here you can see the hole (one on each side) where the fluid enters to exit out.
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Last edited by vrooooom; 07-17-2021 at 11:50 PM..
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      07-31-2021, 04:53 AM   #46
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Got some more fluid and did the process shown on the YouTube video. After doing those push-in, open-close repeat a few times. A bottle of 355 ml later. Installed the clutch slave, went inside the car to test and the clutch goes to the bottom. I don’t know what’s going on.

The shop used a power bleeder type pumped to about 20 psi. Had the slave out. Each time rod was pushed and the bleeder was opened, a lot of fluid came out. We tried doing it w/o the power bleeder and I'd say a lot less were coming out.

This morning I tried it and half of the travel is soft. Back to square one.

Anyone?

Last edited by vrooooom; 07-31-2021 at 07:48 PM..
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      08-01-2021, 12:21 AM   #47
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Put everything back in the car. Fill the reservoir or use the pressure bleeder. Crack the valve at the slave (don't take it anywhere near the 4 turns you showed it takes to get it out, just enough to pass fluid through). Keep pumping slowly, manually lifting the pedal to the top and pushing it down, and checking the reservoir if not using the pressure tank. As Nezil pointed out at the beginning of this thread, the clutch portion of the reservoir is much smaller than the rest of the tank. Keep pushing fluid through until you're confident any air is out. Tighten the slave valve. Pedal still sitting on the floor? Normal. Lift it and push it back down. Still soft after 20x? Keep going. 50? It should firm up. Point being, it's not done when you tighten up the valve at first.

If it's still soft after this, or softens up again after getting firm, you may have air getting into the system somehow.
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      08-01-2021, 08:31 AM   #48
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I'll give that a try. how slowly should I be moving that pedal each way- 2-3 secs each direction?
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      08-03-2021, 03:51 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantComplain View Post
Put everything back in the car. Fill the reservoir or use the pressure bleeder. Crack the valve at the slave (don't take it anywhere near the 4 turns you showed it takes to get it out, just enough to pass fluid through). Keep pumping slowly, manually lifting the pedal to the top and pushing it down, and checking the reservoir if not using the pressure tank. As Nezil pointed out at the beginning of this thread, the clutch portion of the reservoir is much smaller than the rest of the tank. Keep pushing fluid through until you're confident any air is out. Tighten the slave valve. Pedal still sitting on the floor? Normal. Lift it and push it back down. Still soft after 20x? Keep going. 50? It should firm up. Point being, it's not done when you tighten up the valve at first.

If it's still soft after this, or softens up again after getting firm, you may have air getting into the system somehow.
I did this just a couple weeks ago.

After bleeding (not terribly successfully) with a pressure bleeder, I closed the valve and pumped the pedal a few dozen times, with each pump making it feel better and better. The air in the lines will somewhat self bleed (bubbles will float up to the fluid reservoir). Eventually it got to a completely normal pedal, minus the clutch delay valve plate restriction.
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      09-16-2021, 03:44 AM   #50
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I just did the CDV delete and used a Motive pressure bleeder, initial attempt failed as I didn't appreciate how small the clutch chamber really is inside the brake reservoir!! Rather than wasting racing fluid I just fill the car reservoir then bleed a little, disconnect pressure bleeder/refill reservoir/bleed & so on. Filling the reservoir to 'max' I was very quickly getting air into the line, it's not enough unless you have the pressure bleeder set up to continuously feed fluid to the reservoir. Pedal went straight to floor & stayed there

So I filled the reservoir to top of the neck, with 10-12psi on the pressure bleeder I opened the bleed nipple just enough to get the fluid flowing then closed it once I guessed reservoir was around 'max' level, refilled to top of neck and repeat. Doing that 4 times cleared all the air and pedal was perfect.

If I'd been smart enough to do this process first time the bleeding would have been a 10min job. btw I was surprised at how much of an improvement deleting the CDV made, I followed the method using a wood screw to remove it with the slave cylinder left on the car, was easy & quick.
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