01-11-2018, 03:01 PM | #45 |
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Skip the resonator delete (straight mid-pipe) offered by Dinan. This will help keep decibels down a bit. I had the sport cat added after the full Dinan exhaust and let me tell you, the car became a lot louder. My point is, I think the DP adds a bit more noise than the Dinan exhaust does. It's good noise, though.
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01-11-2018, 04:43 PM | #46 |
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Phil from Fabspeed here.
We have not heard of the Sport cat downpipe voiding any warranty. We have a lot of guys running the sport cat with different tunes it really is the best way to get the most out of the both upgrades. |
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01-11-2018, 04:55 PM | #47 |
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When's Bobby going to upgrade his 235? It's time that he graduates
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01-11-2018, 09:37 PM | #48 | |
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I am considering your downpipe, I like the performance improvements and improvement in sound but I don't really want to change from the stock exhaust. Is this going to create a mismatch or will I still get the performance advantages? I don't want anything over the top so it seems like your DP with stock exhaust my be the happy medium I am shooting for. |
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01-11-2018, 10:44 PM | #49 | ||
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01-12-2018, 11:03 AM | #50 |
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Yes, I am very sorry if my post was vague. You can put the Sportcat downpipe on your stock exhaust and it is fantastic. You can also add a tune to it and maximize the gains. That post was more to the point we have not heard anyone voiding their warranty because of the Sportcat downpipe.
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01-12-2018, 01:30 PM | #51 | |
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01-12-2018, 01:59 PM | #52 | |
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01-12-2018, 02:56 PM | #53 |
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How does the sportcat impact emissions? I remember smog alerts growing up in LA before emissions regulations. The air was so bad you weren’t allowed to play outside. I’d like to get one but I don’t want to contribute to pollution. Does it scrub as well as the stock cat?
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01-12-2018, 03:17 PM | #54 | |
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02-24-2018, 07:43 AM | #55 |
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I installed mine yesterday. I won't say it's hard, just kind of a PITA. I just had the car up on ramps. It's one of those typical car things where an extra hand and an extra elbow or 2 would make things much easier. Here's a few tips if you're doing the same.
First, the dent in a Fabspeed catted DP isn't damage, it's supposed to be there to allow for oil line clearance. Ensure you have some reverse torx (star) sockets, one of which you'll need to free up the exhaust. That wiggle room allows you to remove\replace the DP. Knock the clamps loose with a hammer and screwdriver. You need to tap them on the ends where the bolt tightens them. When installing the new DP, the top is the trickier part. I found it best to ensure that upper clamp is around the flange on the turbo then work the DP flange into that. Don't tighten up the clamps too soon. You'll need to adjust it for sure. Once the bracket is secure, you'll know you're in the exact right spot and can tighten up. Ensure everything is tight. From reading, it seems a bad seal, especially on the turbo side, is the biggest cause of CELs. I was close to removing the inner fender liner on the passenger front. I don't have huge forearms and it really interferes with your access. I didn't do it, but was close. If you have bigger arms, think about it. My biggest mistake was somehow losing my Fabspeed stickers they sent. I must have thrown them out with the packing stuff. I already had a spot on the toolbox picked out for it. Out of everything that could go horribly wrong, that one I can live with. That's about it. No CEL for me. It sounds and pulls GREAT. Today holds a car wash, some yardwork then a nice drive with the windows down.
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02-24-2018, 12:25 PM | #56 | |
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Nice work and good advice all the way around. I did mine a couple weeks ago and although I'm a DIY guy by nature (I have an R56 cylinder head fresh from the machine shop on my kitchen counter at the moment) I would not do this again. It seriously kicked my ass and I was contemplating towing it to a decent mechanic to bail me out.
My advice for future amateur mechanics: It was the top flange that did me in. I started with ramps, then ended up jacking the car up from there to give me some extra room. Ultimately I had my wife hanging on to the O2 sensor wire from above to keep it in roughly the right spot while I finagled it in the clamp. Then it took 5 minutes to line it up and get the clamp on it. I just couldn't hold it in the right place and get my hands on the clamp due to the tight space. I understand my cautionary tale is the exception from what I've read here but there have been some other stories and pleas for help so I'd make sure that you knew what you were up against if you were thinking about this yourself. Took me 4 hours with all the trouble, and I now doubt the integrity of the top gasket because I was mashing the downpipe up there. Hopefully the material isn't asbestos either because it was raining down on me.... Yes, the next time would be easier. Ramps are not sufficient IMO. I'm a decent-sized guy and it just wasn't enough room. And the space is really tight to begin with. TLDR; it's hard but worth it. if you're $300 ahead in life, find a guy. Quote:
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02-25-2018, 06:02 AM | #57 |
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FWIW, this install is a breeze compared to a down pipe install on an N54 135i, trust me on this one. I would never want to do the 135i again, the M2 I would do it I'd needed. My two cents!
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02-25-2018, 12:26 PM | #58 |
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I'd do mine again, too. I didn't find it that difficult. I say this to encourage others who may be contemplating DIY.
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02-26-2018, 09:17 AM | #59 | |
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03-03-2018, 03:29 PM | #60 | ||||
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04-28-2018, 08:29 AM | #61 |
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thinking about doing this myself so i can take it off at will if and when i have warranty issues
what tools are required, and what tools are recommended to make your life easier ?
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04-28-2018, 11:45 AM | #62 |
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A lift
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04-30-2018, 02:00 PM | #63 | |
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Other than that, it's pretty standard stuff. A few sockets, a hammer, a few different length screwdrivers to free up the clamps. I have a swivel head ratchet that might have helped a bit getting to the upper clamp, but it was easy enough to reach with a standard socket and extension that I didn't even bother with the swivel head. A cordless drill with a nutdriver attachment will make the tray removal quicker. There are like 712 of those screws, it seems. A friend will come in handy as well. While this is mostly a 1 man job, I had a buddy hold up the bottom of the sportcat so I could concentrate on the tricky upper clamp.
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04-30-2018, 03:31 PM | #64 |
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Just took mine off before bringing it in for the 1200 mile service. Must say it was easier than the first time. After the service is complete, I'm putting back the fabspeed then retiring.
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05-14-2018, 05:02 PM | #65 |
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I fitted my FabSpeed Saturday morning. I noticed they changed the top part of the DP to a cast Aluminium piece now, which doesn't have the 'dent' in it to clear the pipe that's close by.
I had an issue getting the upper O2 sensor out, because the split socket I used was actually bending and turning round. I solved this by heating the base with a MAP gas plumbing torch that I had in the garage. Once hot, it came off very easily. I then coated the threads in Copper grease and installed them in the new DP. The other issue I had was that the bottom mount that bolts the DP to the engine, didn't line up really at all. I ended up bending both the DP bracket and the original bracket so that I was able to bolt everything together, but I was a bit disappointed that it was so far off to begin with. I was also surprised that I got no leaks once installed. I had awful trouble in previous cars getting no leaks between tapered flanges, but this was fine. One tip I have for those that are going to do it themselves, is to get some kind of tool to bring the upper clamp together. I found that I could get the two halves over the turbo outlet and DP inlet correctly, but the gap between the two holes where the bolt goes through was too large to start the bolt. I used a pair of pipe grips to squeeze these together and that was enough to get the bolt in. Total time, I think, was about 3 hours, including setup and clean up. Oh, and I put the car on jack stands rather than ramps. I bought a pair of 3 Ton jack stands from Harbor Freight, and modified the internal parts so that they fit inside the plastic jack points (cut the sides off and hot glued part of a rubber hockey puck to the top). I found the front centre jack point far back, as has been previously stated, but if I put a small piece of wood under one of the front wheels, this was enough to get the body of the jack under the front bumper, and I pumped up from there.
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