[DonPedron]

When did you change the transmission fluid in your DCT m2?

BMW states "lifetime". Keeping this car for a long time and a fluid change seems cheap in the long run compared to fitting a new gearbox in the future.

Currently 48000km on the clock. Dealer states around 1000€ for labor fluid, filters and new tray. Seems reasonable.

[ZM2]

This is a great video to get familiar with all the parts needed and the process. F87source posted this for me in a different thread b/c my shop is doing this job for me this coming week, very helpful.

I'm doing the fluid (replacing with Redline DCTF), both filters, and the pump bc all those parts are cheap. Also, going back with the Fall Line DCT pan bc I track my car (another F87source recommendation): https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...m-dct-oil-pan/

If you haven't or don't plan to track your car a bunch, the pump and Fall Line pan aren't needed. My car has 40k miles and ~70 track days, so it was time!

[DonPedron]

Originally Posted by ZM2

This is a great video to get familiar with all the parts needed and the process. F87source posted this for me in a different thread b/c my shop is doing this job this coming week, very helpful.

I'm doing the fluid (replacing with Redline DCTF), both filters, and the pump bc all those parts are cheap. Also, going back with the Fall Line DCT pan since I track my car (also another F87source recommendation): https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...m-dct-oil-pan/

At what mileage will you perform this service?

[ZM2]

Everyone will have a different answer, but if you just daily drive your car, I'd say 50-75k miles.

If you track your car a little bit, I'd say 35k miles. If you track your car a lot, I'd say 25k miles.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Everyone will have a different answer, but if you just daily drive your car, I'd say 50-75k miles.

If you track your car a little bit, I'd say 35k miles. If you track your car a lot, I'd say 25k miles.

I'd say 50k km is when I'd do DCT fluid and filter changes, because the DCT is known to generate alot of metallic particles, so keep the intervals low to ensure the car lasts.


For track is even say half that.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

I'm doing the fluid (replacing with Redline DCTF),

I just noticed this after rereading the post, but if you use redline DCTF (very solid fluid imo, and I will be going to this fluid personally in my next transmission fluid change) I would keep intervals really really low. Because it is an ester heavy oil and esters oxidize rapidly so it is not a good fluid for long term use. So 50k km for street use or ~4 years tops maybe even less (and UOA will confirm) whatever comes first, and for the track 25k km or maybe 2 years whatever comes first (it is best to get a UOA to confirm everything is ok).


But oil is cheap, dct's aren't so it is best to replace fluids regularly as preventative maintaineance.

[M Fifty]

Has anyone considered just replacing like for like?

[nando_514]

I do DCT fluid and filters every year. However, I primarily track the car, so the intervals will always be shorter. I don't think it NEEDS to be done every year, but like many have stated in this thread, it's cheaper to maintain, than it is to replace!


$1000 does seem a bit high though.. Parts usually run me about 300-400, and it should only be about 2 hours in labor. FWIW, I replace with OE stuff from FCP and its never been an issue. Hope this helps!

[DonPedron]

Thanks for the answers!

Will do it before the summer starts

To DIY is a bit much work for me

[tux2005]

Originally Posted by nando_514

I do DCT fluid and filters every year. However, I primarily track the car, so the intervals will always be shorter. I don't think it NEEDS to be done every year, but like many have stated in this thread, it's cheaper to maintain, than it is to replace!


$1000 does seem a bit high though.. Parts usually run me about 300-400, and it should only be about 2 hours in labor. FWIW, I replace with OE stuff from FCP and its never been an issue. Hope this helps!

Are you replacing both filters or just the canister one?

In Canada I was around $1000CAD in parts for pan, drain plugs, fluids, lower filter and canister filter. I recently saw that RockAuto now appear to have a gasket that you can buy for the pan without requiring the replacement of the entire pan but I'd already purchased by that point (and also wasn't aware of the Turner version either . . . .).

[ThatBlueM2]

Does the oil for DCT have a "part number"? If so, can someone please write it down here? I want to make sure they don't put the wrong DCT oil in my car.

I assume it's this: 83 22 2 446 673 - https://www.hubauer-shop.de/en/advan...3&inc_subcat=1

Correct?

[M Fifty]

83222446673

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=83222446673

[doughboy]

Interesting that VAG group used to say DSG was oil was "lifetime" but since masses of failures they now specify DSG oil and filters every 40k...

If I had DCT I'd change it 40K too.

[ZM2]

Something else to add to this, my DCT was overheating on the track (270F) and running ~240F on the street. You don’t get idrive warnings until 250-260F, so didn’t realize I had an issue until my most recent track outing.

We changed the pan, filters, pump, fluid, and all that stuff, but everything looked fine and great in my DCT and none of my lines were clogged. So, we changed the thermostat ($125) since it looked like in the temp logs it was never opening, and now everything is great and temps stay at 180F!

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Something else to add to this, my DCT was overheating on the track (270F) and running ~240F on the street. You don’t get idrive warnings until 250-260F, so didn’t realize I had an issue until my most recent track outing.

We changed the pan, filters, pump, fluid, and all that stuff, but everything looked fine and great in my DCT and none of my lines were clogged. So, we changed the thermostat ($125) since it looked like in the temp logs it was never opening, and now everything is great and temps stay at 180F!

Glad you got it resolved! But just keep doing filters in the future probably no need to replace the jet pump too often.

[ThatBlueM2]

Can anyone link to any official BMW documentation for changing the oil + filters in the F87 DCT?

Specifically I need a PDF for pan bolts tightening sequence, and torque specs for all the bolts that get undone while changing oil.

Examples of what I need:
Pan bolt tightening pattern - need one for F87 DCT. I know it's probably the same, but I need the official docs for F87.

If you scroll down to "PROCEDURES" part of this post: https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showpo...88&postcount=1 - you will find the torque specs. However I would like an official BMW spec sheet, for the F87 DCT

P.S. Why are these things so damn difficult to find on the internet?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ThatBlueM2

Can anyone link to any official BMW documentation for changing the oil + filters in the F87 DCT?

Specifically I need a PDF for pan bolts tightening sequence, and torque specs for all the bolts that get undone while changing oil.

Examples of what I need:
Pan bolt tightening pattern - need one for F87 DCT. I know it's probably the same, but I need the official docs for F87.

If you scroll down to "PROCEDURES" part of this post: https://f10.m5post.com/forums/showpo...88&postcount=1 - you will find the torque specs. However I would like an official BMW spec sheet, for the F87 DCT

P.S. Why are these things so damn difficult to find on the internet?

Realoem for part numbers

then you will need ista for the rest.

[ThatBlueM2]

Originally Posted by F87source

Realoem for part numbers

then you will need ista for the rest.

Thanks. Would this information also be available here? https://www.bmwtis.com/#/login

If yes I'll just get a 1 day subscription to get what I need.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ThatBlueM2

Thanks. Would this information also be available here? https://www.bmwtis.com/#/login

If yes I'll just get a 1 day subscription to get what I need.

I believe so.

[tux2005]

I don't have my laptop with ISTA with me now to grab or verify the screenshot again but I did have a look at it yesterday and from memory your example looks the same or very similar.

How do you intend to run the fill/level adjustment procedure? Wouldn't you want to use ISTA to run that process and you'd have access to the diagram then too?

[Insane_Dawe]

Originally Posted by tux2005

I don't have my laptop with ISTA with me now to grab or verify the screenshot again but I did have a look at it yesterday and from memory your example looks the same or very similar.

How do you intend to run the fill/level adjustment procedure? Wouldn't you want to use ISTA to run that process and you'd have access to the diagram then too?

I just did this service at 38K Miles (61K km) which is above the recommended change interval of 50K from Motul/LiquiMoly.

Fluid coming out looked very clean and did not seem thinned. I did not drop the pan and/or replace the filters, just a fluid flush. The pan and filters seem to catch most of the clutch material. My rear diff fluid did not look that good.

You MUST use ITSA to fill. I was able to drain ~3.3L by opening the drain on my M2 that hadn't been run for a day or so. Filling before the ISTA procedure, I was only able to fill ~<2L. When using ISTA, I was able to pump in another 1.5L-2L.

I did notice a slight difference in shifting performance but I did CS Trans flash at the same time. I will likely be going back to stock and report back then. Changing my rear diff oil made a much bigger impact and subdued my concerns of my trans going bad.

I bugged my local dealer about rear diff fluid multiple times 12K, 24K, 36K and it didn't look like it's ever been changed. Including the 2K initial service.

[bMira23]

Originally Posted by Insane_Dawe

I just did this service at 38K Miles (61K km) which is above the recommended change interval of 50K from Motul/LiquiMoly.

Fluid coming out looked very clean and did not seem thinned. I did not drop the pan and/or replace the filters, just a fluid flush. The pan and filters seem to catch most of the clutch material. My rear diff fluid did not look that good.

You MUST use ITSA to fill. I was able to drain ~3.3L by opening the drain on my M2 that hadn't been run for a day or so. Filling before the ISTA procedure, I was only able to fill ~<2L. When using ISTA, I was able to pump in another 1.5L-2L.

I did notice a slight difference in shifting performance but I did CS Trans flash at the same time. I will likely be going back to stock and report back then. Changing my rear diff oil made a much bigger impact and subdued my concerns of my trans going bad.

I bugged my local dealer about rear diff fluid multiple times 12K, 24K, 36K and it didn't look like it's ever been changed. Including the 2K initial service.

Do you have any tutorial of how to install ITSA+?? I have done the oil swap and now the gearbox is super slow on downshifts...!