[Shawqi90210]

So yesterday I was driving around I ran into a x3m on the road we started to play around a bit for fun and we came to a light and I did a launch control car took off completely fine and right after I left 3rd car made a weird noise and it sounded so wrong car went into neural and turned off. I pulled over car was smoking white. I let it sit and tried staring it again it cold started just fine the second the rpm drops it wants to die.

I know I shouldn’t have started it but the car had no codes at all so I was super confused. Eventually I towed it home and immediately started to get to work. I removed the inlet and behold my turbo was shredded.


Car has 40k miles and for it to blow the turbo on a ots map is insane to me. A it’s map isn’t even aggressive. How would a stock turbo even blow on ots.


Anyway I’m not too mad because I have a 750 just laying around bc I was planning on swaping it out but definitely not this fast car has only been tuned for less than 20k miles.

Any ideas on why ots would blow my turbo??

[ThreeStripes]

What tune and fuel?

[Shawqi90210]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

What tune and fuel?

Bm3 stage 2+ e30 and I measure the e content my self every time and make sure it’s mixed right

[ThreeStripes]

If you’re not running a fuel filter, and running E85 blends, injectors foul from the contaminants and eventually fail which can f@ck stuff up real bad from lean events.

My money is on that’s what happened here. Bolt that P750 on, get a bend calibration flex fuel kit with the Bosch filter, and have them custom tune it.

[M2guru]

Dissect the turbo to understand what happened. Did the shaft break? Oiling problems? Nut(s) come loose? Here is mine: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=69

[Shawqi90210]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

If you’re not running a fuel filter, and running E85 blends, injectors foul from the contaminants and eventually fail which can f@ck stuff up real bad from lean events.

My money is on that’s what happened here. Bolt that P750 on, get a bend calibration flex fuel kit with the Bosch filter, and have them custom tune it.

Yea that would probably do it to be honest ima dig a bit more see what happened but still surprised it would blow the turbo only on my 3rd tank of e30

[Shawqi90210]

Originally Posted by M2guru

Dissect the turbo to understand what happened. Did the shaft break? Oiling problems? Nut(s) come loose? Here is mine: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=69

That’s a good idea when I find time I’ll take it all apart to see what really happened I can only see the front damage haven’t even pulled the dp yet I just wanted to see if it was the turbo or I blew my motor

[samsamdar]

I had my DS25 HPFP and a couple injectors fail not long after running E85 without the bend filter kit (maybe 6-7 tanks worth of full E). I got lucky that I wasn't pushing the car hard when my HPFP and injectors failed and I turned the car off immediately. Highly reccommend you get the Bend filter and lower the E content unless you have an upgraded HPFP AND LPFP.

[samsamdar]

Also highly reccommend you check the injectors and HPFP for functionality. You can tell if HPFP failed by logging pressures and you can check injectors by pulling the spark plugs and cranking the car to see if any fuel comes out. If fuel comes out of the spark plug holes, then you know your injectors are stuck open.

[M2guru]

I'd be very surprised if fueling had anything to do with the turbo failure. The turbo doesn't know fuel - only air and oil.

[TheSandman_M2]

Originally Posted by Shawqi90210

Bm3 stage 2+ e30 and I measure the e content my self every time and make sure it’s mixed right

I don't think you should run that map with a stock turbo.

[Shawqi90210]

Only thing it says is hpfp and dp and intercooler which I already put beofre using that map

[mike@x-ph.com]

Without data logs, it's all speculation.

It could be as simple as a boost leak, making your turbo spool a lot more to achieve a target boost until it finally fails.


What we know for sure, with the correct mods, fuel and healthy turbo, the boost target of OTS maps are well within the safety margin

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Without data logs, it's all speculation.

I respectfully disagree that it's all speculation. As suggested, if you disassemble the turbo, you'll get a look at the bearings and other parts that can tell you what happened.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by M2guru

I respectfully disagree that it's all speculation. As suggested, if you disassemble the turbo, you'll get a look at the bearings and other parts that can tell you what happened.

Maybe you misunderstood my previous response.

To clarify in simpler terms, it's impossible to determine what went wrong and what caused it based on the currently available information.

Even if you disassemble the turbo, you might not know what caused the failure. You will see the end result, but what leads up to it might be more challenging to determining without datalogs

[VGSON]

I wouldn’t suspect fuel/tune..more so a failure from foreign object, failed bearings causing side to side play, oiling…

[TheSandman_M2]

Originally Posted by Shawqi90210

Only thing it says is hpfp and dp and intercooler which I already put beofre using that map

it hits 20-21psi, a little to much for the stock turbo.

[ThreeStripes]

Good feedback. Leaving my prior inaccurate speculation above as a PSA on E85 though.

[omasou]

Maybe it didn’t “blow” on the OTS map but finally gave out while on the OTS map.

[Shawqi90210]

Haven’t got to really dig deep in the car yet I’m ordering everything I need for the swap and fueling to keep up with the boost. I was wondering how can I fully flush my oil because I’d assume metal probably went through and is probably sitting in places it shouldn’t. So already know I need to check my intercooler and charge pipe, but oil wise how do I flush the whole system out to get as much as I can out ?

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by Shawqi90210

Haven’t got to really dig deep in the car yet I’m ordering everything I need for the swap and fueling to keep up with the boost. I was wondering how can I fully flush my oil because I’d assume metal probably went through and is probably sitting in places it shouldn’t. So already know I need to check my intercooler and charge pipe, but oil wise how do I flush the whole system out to get as much as I can out ?

It likely does depend on the cause a bit. For me, when my turbo shaft broke, I didn't run the car but for maybe a mile or two afterwards (as I tried to diagnose the issue while being 2.5 hours away from home). After I found out it was the shaft and found a bunch of oil in my intercooler (quarts!), I checked the oil filter. There was obvious journal bearing material on the outside of the filter. I don't think any of it made it past the filter. So from the turbo, the oil goes to the pan and from the pan, to the filter.

I did send a sample of oil in to Blackstone of the oil from the intercooler.

I tried to clean the oil from the filter housing as best I could. Then I poured about a quart of oil into the housing (hoping it would flush anything to the pan). I also sent about 3 gallons of oil in the oil fill hole and then drained the oil after each one in an attempt to flush out the pan.

What I did next was to prime the oil system after filling it up with about 3 quarts of oil. I then drained that oil.

Where I sit now is with about 1 quart less than normal in the car and I have driven about 100 miles (max). I used this oil to try the new tunes. I will drain and refill and add a new filter before I drive it again and I'll consider it good. I'll send the 100-mile oil into Blackstone and the oil I will put into it after normal (track) use to see what it shows.

I hope that helps. I was debating dropping the pan and bottom end to check things out, but the more I thought about the path of oil and that the filter should have stopped anything, I felt that was more insurance than I wanted to "pay."

[Shawqi90210]

Originally Posted by M2guru

It likely does depend on the cause a bit. For me, when my turbo shaft broke, I didn't run the car but for maybe a mile or two afterwards (as I tried to diagnose the issue while being 2.5 hours away from home). After I found out it was the shaft and found a bunch of oil in my intercooler (quarts!), I checked the oil filter. There was obvious journal bearing material on the outside of the filter. I don't think any of it made it past the filter. So from the turbo, the oil goes to the pan and from the pan, to the filter.

I did send a sample of oil in to Blackstone of the oil from the intercooler.

I tried to clean the oil from the filter housing as best I could. Then I poured about a quart of oil into the housing (hoping it would flush anything to the pan). I also sent about 3 gallons of oil in the oil fill hole and then drained the oil after each one in an attempt to flush out the pan.

What I did next was to prime the oil system after filling it up with about 3 quarts of oil. I then drained that oil.

Where I sit now is with about 1 quart less than normal in the car and I have driven about 100 miles (max). I used this oil to try the new tunes. I will drain and refill and add a new filter before I drive it again and I'll consider it good. I'll send the 100-mile oil into Blackstone and the oil I will put into it after normal (track) use to see what it shows.

I hope that helps. I was debating dropping the pan and bottom end to check things out, but the more I thought about the path of oil and that the filter should have stopped anything, I felt that was more insurance [...]

This helped a lot!!! I wanted to know how to flush the oil. I will for sure do the same process.

I was wondering for the oil I just use to flush do I really need to use my regular oil I use or can I just get cheap oil to flush the system but drive on my normal oil that I use for the car ?