02-17-2020, 06:52 PM | #1 |
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Dead Battery Window Issue?
Battery is dead.
After getting in / out attempted to close door and it hit me. The window needs to drop a little. Is there a work around for closing the door when the window has not dropped? Have the car on a tender now but door is ajar. |
02-17-2020, 08:56 PM | #2 |
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Huh, this is a good question. I vaguely remember this issue on my E93, but I can't be certain.
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02-17-2020, 10:05 PM | #3 |
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I'm guessing it's a common situation.
Completely shutting the door looks like it's going to result in pressure being put on the window. I've got the car on a battery tender but it's telling me the battery is charged and it's not. I'll jump it tomorrow. |
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02-17-2020, 10:11 PM | #4 |
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how did the window drop in the first place when you opened the door with a dead battery?
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02-18-2020, 04:00 AM | #5 |
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Jump the battery from another car
Charge the battery If it is manual clutch start the car Buy a car with mechanical windows Without sounding like a dick you already have access so should be straight forward unless I'm missing something. You should be happy the window dropped before you opened the door. I would ensure battery issue is sorted before getting it closed and taking up the air gap otherwise when you go to open the door you will damage the window trim.
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02-18-2020, 06:00 AM | #6 | |
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Car was dead. Been sitting in garage for 3 weeks. Was out of town and forgot to put the charger on it. It's never locked. Just opened door jumped in to start and realized it was dead. |
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02-18-2020, 06:06 AM | #7 | |
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I love these helpful replies. I am happy the car is a 3rd car sitting in a garage surplus to requirements. I'll jump it and it's not a big deal. It was a question - how does it work/behave mechanically when in this situation. Simply curiosity. Thanks for your input. |
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02-18-2020, 06:53 AM | #8 |
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The "window drop" would not operate, by design, when the vehicle's battery drop below 9V, in order to preserve power for the starter. There is no way to bypass the automatic operation by any other means, physical or otherwise.
The good news is that the purpose of the window drop is just to be a able to clear the window seal lip. When you close the doors, just after they hit home and latch, the window pops up into the groove to create a better wind and rain seal, by driving the edge of the glass into the groove, nothing else. The fact that it's set in place and not moving, due to a dead battery, does not cause any damage to the vehicle's window, door or anything else meaningful. |
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02-18-2020, 07:50 AM | #9 |
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I don't have anything helpful to add, but wanted to say this is actually a good conversation because maybe the IND keyhole cover isn't so bad. I've never seen anyone bring up if the window will still drop with a dead battery before. So if the door isn't gonna open anyway, might as well get the keyhole cover.
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02-18-2020, 08:20 AM | #10 | |
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I know I've read or seen something about it before but couldn't find it. Not knowing the battery was dead and it being unlocked - I just grabbed the handle and pulled. No resistance or any indication it was "stuck" or "binding". It was only when I went to close it I remember the auto down function and started looking at how it was behaving when closed. It looks like you could close it without the glass being on the outside of the trim. The glass is under the trim. Pushing against he door forces the glass upward. I just don't want to try it... |
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02-18-2020, 08:29 AM | #11 |
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Yes, the glass drop/rise is just a dynamic air and water seal, due to the frameless window, not in anyway restricting the door/window from closing.
I've done it numerous times, with a dead battery and caused absolutely no damage. Anyways, if you're looking for a good reference manual, I suggest the link below. It's basically carbon copy of the official technical/training manual the dealer mechanics are privy to.. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...lator/HEJlloA3 |
02-18-2020, 08:35 AM | #12 | |
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Thanks for the link. |
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02-18-2020, 10:02 AM | #13 | |
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My car is also in/out of Winter Storage (I drive it only when conditions are ideal, and salt have been washed off the roads by heavy rain, then I drive it for 3-4 hours), but overall, my car can go 2-3 weeks without being started and it starts every time. I don't use a tender (based on what I've read, there's no consensus of whether it's actually useful), and haven't had any issues. |
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02-18-2020, 10:12 AM | #14 | |
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21 days.. or 27 days... 33 days. I can tell you even when I did start and drive it was one drive for 7-8 miles and back in the garage since November. I try to keep a trickle charger on any battery not used over winter. IE the lawn tractor. |
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02-18-2020, 10:40 AM | #15 | |
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But as a general rule for myself personally: 1.) Drive the car every 2 weeks (my car is not a daily), weather permitting, and if I have time. 2.) If I go for a drive, then I commit at least 3 hours doing it starting at 6am on Sunday (at least 100 miles if possible), so the battery (and the tires) are back to optimal. |
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02-18-2020, 11:44 AM | #16 | |
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I'm not that good at planning. So much salt on the roads here, even if it's sunny, I won't get it out. |
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02-18-2020, 02:40 PM | #17 |
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I'm thinking from your posts the issue isn't the window has dropped but that you've opened the door and the battery was flat so the window did not drop but it's easily over come on the opening motion. Now you want to close it the window will hit the seal.
If so the times I've had to do it if I couldn't get the windows working Via the jump posts in the front I put one hand on the door to push and the other in the centre of the glass just down from the top and put a little tension on the glass to kind of tuck it in which shortens it by a few mm. not loads of pressure but just enough. It won't go in cleanly and I wouldn't want to do it too much as it leads to play in the regulator but it won't hurt in emergencies. Taught my fiancée early on to not shut the damn door by the window as it has no frame and no one likes a floppy one. She is great now and every time she shuts her m4 it's always done by the handle. |
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02-21-2020, 01:47 PM | #18 | |
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I think either your charger or the battery is pooped. Remember your charger needs to be suitable for AGM batteries, not old wet lead acid. If you have a CTEK tender it needs to be selected to AGM. |
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02-21-2020, 04:10 PM | #19 | |
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I don't think it's the charger. I jumped it, drove it for 30 minutes, turned it off and it was dead. Battery not charging. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Was going in for a state sticker anyway. |
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05-12-2020, 12:51 PM | #20 |
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GoHerd did you figure out what the issue was? I'm having the same problem with my M2. Took it out of winter storage, jumped it, drove for an hour and all was well. Went to start again ten minutes later and its completely dead. Can't get it to hold a charge. Was it the battery?
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05-12-2020, 01:03 PM | #21 |
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Battery Tender for any BMW sitting more than 2 weeks. All dealers do this with showroom cars as well. The parasitic loss with these high tech cars is unavoidable. For $80 you will avoid a world of tech aggravations and inconveniences. I have them on all my toys and equipment (16+ tenders)
FYI....if your battery is discharged enough not to start the engine, you will have to drive the car along time for it to fully recharge and most will not drive it long enough. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Last edited by MystroX5; 05-12-2020 at 01:09 PM.. |
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05-12-2020, 01:10 PM | #22 | |
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