02-22-2019, 12:18 AM | #23 |
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just blaze310.00 CrashFL136.50 |
02-22-2019, 07:07 AM | #24 |
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Ferodo DS2500 and DS1.11 share a similar compound and can be swapped back and forth without rebedding. The former are decent street pads, the latter are track pads.
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03-03-2019, 01:39 AM | #25 |
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Hi OP,
I popped my HPDE cherry last year. Was running stock tires and pads but with Motul fluid. Car was very strong, but on the hot days, particularly in the later sessions, the tires would get greasy and the brakes would fade. Which is good because as others have said, it was a good chance to learn back it off a bit and keep learning the car. I think I spun once and went off track once in 5 events. Lots of good advice on here about staying focused and not letting the equipment take away from you learning the ropes. That said, this year I am going to be running a new coilover setup w/ camber plates, square 18s and Hankook RS4’s, plus upgraded pads (PFC08). The reality is my car is still way too quick for my skill level, but I think as long as you don’t try to drive outside your limits, the better equipment will just make things more enjoyable. |
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03-04-2019, 12:29 AM | #26 | |
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03-04-2019, 10:11 AM | #27 |
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03-05-2019, 01:22 AM | #28 |
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Do you guys know how much negative camber you can get out of the stock setup on OG M2? I plan on using same tires for street and track. (4-6 days a year). Then I have winter tires for Nov - March. I don't want to modify the car since I'll only be hanging on to it for another 2.5 years. Willing to go through a set of tires per season.
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03-05-2019, 02:59 AM | #29 | |
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One of the first things I noticed was the rear is more planted and does not skip around as it did stock(which was to be expected). Something about the stock M2 suspension IMO had this ever so slight unsettled feeling going over little bumps and dips in the Rear. I have it set to 15 clicks all around which feels about as stiff as stock, with better dampening. I will start playing around with different levels of the adjustability as time goes on and more track time planned. As for the Vorshlag plates, they are quality made and I have not noticed any increase in NVH which was something I was worried about.
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03-05-2019, 03:00 AM | #30 | |
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03-06-2019, 11:36 AM | #31 | |
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03-06-2019, 03:11 PM | #32 |
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About to have my tires mounted this weekend. Should I do any alignment or just mount them as is?
The last time I got alignment was last summer.
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03-07-2019, 07:24 AM | #33 |
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How many miles did you put on since the last measurement? Is the car pulling left or right when you are driving on a highway?
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03-07-2019, 07:32 AM | #34 | |
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Altho, you’ll wear the outsides of your front tires if you start to push, so you probably want to adjust before your second outing. There’s a few threads with recommended track settings, but let us know if you don’t find them. |
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03-07-2019, 07:51 AM | #35 |
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I always keep these handy, so here’s what I run:
Alignment Specs (deg) Track: Front: -3.1, 0.04 total toe in, Rear: -2.0, 0.29 total toe in Street: Front: -1.8, 0.10 total toe in, Rear: -1.8, 0.29 total toe in OEM: Front: -1.5, 0.16 total toe in, Rear: -1.8, 0.27 total toe in You won’t need to go that aggressive on the front camber until you start really pushing on track. I’d say -2.5 and work up from there. |
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03-07-2019, 12:12 PM | #36 | |||
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Putting a new set of tires. Car was actually driving really well and not pulling either way. More so on the front camber. Quote:
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I actually signed up and have another track day at Thunderhill about 10 days after Laguna Seca. I'm tempted to set my fronts around -2.5 with zero/minimal toe and leaving the rears the same. Having the 2 days now got me thinking having more camber might not be a bad idea. Then after I'll just leave it like that and see how it does on the street. The M2 isn't a true daily driver for me, although I drive it a good amount on my off days (3-4 days a week)
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03-07-2019, 12:21 PM | #37 | |
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Curious, because I have a set of TCKline plates I plan on using this year. Should I be swapping between stock camber, and the next negative camber slot (about 1 degree difference) for track? When I get my initial alignment done, should I have it done for stock (position) camber first, and then just move the plates 1 spot for track? My toe should be a little closer to 0, correct? Further info, I do have track specific wheels/tires, so am not sure how that changes things. Running stock wheels with close to stock size tires on the street, and 18x10 wheels with 275/35r18 tires for track. |
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03-07-2019, 01:47 PM | #38 |
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Hey guys, I'll answer both your questions.
justblaze I would definitely add some front negative camber. Try -2.5 and see how hard you're pushing by looking at the outside front edges. If you have excessive outside wear, add more camber after your first two outings. I ran zero toe in the front for a while, but it's a PITA on the street. 0.04 total toe in is just enough to help quite a bit on the street to keep the tires from hunting around as much, and isn't too much that it impacts wear or performance on track for your purposes. Depending on how many miles you've put on your car since last summer and the types of roads you drive, I would be prepared to adjust the rears, as well, to bring them back into spec. I'll also add that I played with rear toe settings from 0.16-0.4 total toe in just to see how the car would react. The less you have, the easier it is to rotate the rear of the car, but it's also easier to kick the back end out under throttle. The more you have, the harder it is to throttle steer, especially in tight corners. I ended up at 0.29, as it makes the car really solid getting on the gas coming out of the corners, and I can just give her a little more gas to help get around slow corners. detroitm2 I do not change settings between events. My routine is to get a track alignment before my first annual event and to check it again halfway thru the season. -3.1 on the street is kind of PITA, but you get used to it and the tiny bit of toe in helps quite a bit. After track season, I have the street alignment dialed back in. Different tire & wheel sizes and tire compounds will have different impacts to alignment settings. Generally, you can keep toe set to your desired preferences, but you'll want more camber for stickier tires. Everyone's setup is different, so just watch the wear and decide how to adjust. Lastly, the beginning/end of track season alignment changes for me go hand-in-hand with also changing oil and brake fluid. Beginning of season: flush brake fluid, change to 5W oil, track alignment, track pads (easy enough to switch these b/n events). End of season: change to 0W oil, street alignment, brake fluid flush, street pads. |
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03-08-2019, 10:38 AM | #39 | |
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03-12-2019, 06:41 AM | #41 | |
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I’ve tried up to -2.2 in the rear and backed off to -2.0. Anything above -2.0 makes it harder to put power down and isn’t needed from a tire wear perspective. I’d def take it back! Last edited by ZM2; 03-12-2019 at 06:47 AM.. |
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03-13-2019, 02:22 PM | #42 |
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Based on my 20+ years of tracking cars, I'll give you the short qualified answer:
If you want to learn to be a really fast driver...get the hardest tires you can and learn to slide (Sticky tires come later). If you want to be a slow driver with faster lap times...get the stickiest tires you can afford.
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03-26-2019, 01:50 PM | #43 | |
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"The best car to learn in is an old car with bald tires" It all about learning car control. Learn, have fun and rest will follow. |
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04-03-2019, 03:43 PM | #44 |
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Love that! The same is true with ALWAYS going out on a wet track!
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