02-13-2024, 08:16 AM | #23 |
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02-13-2024, 10:30 AM | #24 |
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The main issue with the OEM suspension is that it is relatively undersprung and then overdampened to compensate. While this makes your standard ride more "plush" it is when you hit a bump (or other uneven event like this) that the issue becomes apparent. When the dampers are valved in a manner to help compensate for the springs not being able to full control the weight transfer they are typically very abrupt or harsh in their high speed moments. This results in the crashiness that a lot of M2 owners complain about. The flip side of the spectrum on performance it still allows for decent grip but ultimately a properly sprung car will be able to control the weight better. This all being said though - if you are happy with the ride and performance characteristics of the car as is then all is good. It's all about how the car works for you. I personally feel like suspension upgrades provide the best return for the money on this platform but I do not drive the roads you do or in the same manner of usage so if you are happy with it then keep rocking it.
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02-13-2024, 10:39 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
I'll just add a couple of things. First, BMW pays $9 for each strut, and they are made to work in a very specific range, so adding springs will kill them post haste. Second, the rear springs on the stock suspension are breaking at an alarming rate. I've seen 20+ threads on FB just in passing. |
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02-13-2024, 01:14 PM | #26 |
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Thank you both ...
Your feedback mirrors a few UK tuning offerings that I have read, your educated description clarifies `things` even more hence I am much the wiser I too have had a rear spring break, replaced under the Insured Warranty |
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02-23-2024, 12:58 PM | #28 |
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To my eye, much of the advice here is more relevant if you track, and you said you don't.
You will need new shocks at 100k, so probably not much more to upgrade to a coilover system. I don't think these are as durable in heavy winter-salted locations, but I doubt it would be an issue in Nashville. Even fresh stock parts should be a noticeable improvement. Switching from all-seasons to true summer performance tires is also a must-do. This is like going from hiking boots to sneakers for a game of tennis - you'd notice an improvement on a stock corolla, let alone an M2. If your winter temps stay below 40 for long, or you ever want to drive at sub-freezing, then you'll want to have 2 sets of wheel/tires. True winter tires are always best in the cold, but if your all-seasons have good tread you can keep using them. It will put a lot of wear on the tires to repeatedly mount/dismount them (and expensive), so best to have 2 full wheelsets that you switch between. If it were me, I'd shop a decent flow-formed wheel or a second factory set and use it for the winter ones, keeping factory stockers for summer tires (your stock 437 wheels are forged and almost as light as the famous 763's, much better than most 'factory wheels'). Wider wheels and tires aren't going to improve your traction much, if any, in a street setting (others will be quick to disagree with this, but 10mm of extra tread isn't really adding a lot). If you did want to try wider wheels, you can just use the summer tires on those, and put the winters on your stockers. Up here the tire places will swap them for you in lieu of the 'free seasonal rotation' and they often will store them for you too if space is an issue. Final note - if you haven't tried the Back of the Dragon, you really should add it to your next trip. Like TOD on steroids (steroids mixed with mescaline). |
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