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      05-23-2022, 05:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suds View Post
My M2c got to where both rear lights would show the malfunction error at the same time.
I finally got a picture of this on the way for repair, and was lucky enough for the error messages to still be showing when I pulled into the service bay.

Both rear light assemblies were replaced, so far still error free.
Same. They saw the error and replaced the light. Still not resolved. The problem immediately came back.

Obviously the actuaries haven’t approved a recall, which otherwise should have been done.
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      05-23-2022, 06:13 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Rk-d View Post
This is also my suspicion. The replacement tail light did not fix the problem, so it makes sense that the connector could be to blame.
It does seem to go away for 99% of people when the assembly is replaced. I wonder if it's simple wiping action of inserting / removing the connector that "fixes" it. Probably not, given that BMW isn't completely stupid and wouldn't be replacing thousands of taillights under warranty if the accessible part of the connector just needed cleaning.
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      05-23-2022, 06:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
It does seem to go away for 99% of people when the assembly is replaced. I wonder if it's simple wiping action of inserting / removing the connector that "fixes" it. Probably not, given that BMW isn't completely stupid and wouldn't be replacing thousands of taillights under warranty if the accessible part of the connector just needed cleaning.
I have half a mind to swipe the connector with DeoxIT.
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      05-23-2022, 08:31 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Rk-d View Post
I have half a mind to swipe the connector with DeoxIT.
If this happens to me, I will definitely try to keep the bad taillight and disassemble it and find out what's actually wrong. From what's been said in the threads over the years, it seems like something is going high-Z over time because you can fake the bulb check out with an additional resistor to ground to increase the current draw. Whether it is an active device, shunt resistor, or the connector failing somewhere, no idea.
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      05-23-2022, 08:54 PM   #27
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This just happened to me. Back to normal even without turning the car off after a few minutes. I'm due for an oil change, so I'll see what the dealer will do...Doesn't seem BMW has a firm idea on the root cause.
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      05-23-2022, 09:02 PM   #28
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It’s very odd, because often times the turn signal will start working normal again after a few minutes (thought the warning remains, at least until the car is turned off).

Then it works fine for an indeterminant amount of time before the warning comes back.

Annoying.
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      05-23-2022, 09:32 PM   #29
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Happened to me twice this weekend. Seems the more you TRY to use the turn signals, the more faults occur. Always left side too…
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      05-23-2022, 10:17 PM   #30
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Probably has some thermal component if it happens more when you use it frequently and then recovers.
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      05-24-2022, 06:14 AM   #31
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I have it happening as well. Mine is on the right. It will go weeks without doing it, then it will do it and turn off car for a few hours or till next day and its fine for a while again. Seems like its weather related because it always happens when its really hot but I could be wrong.

I have not mentioned it yet since it keeps going away but will definitely try to before warranty is over. It is kind of annoying but I think it has happened maybe 3 times in the past 3 months and had the car for a year or so before without a problem. They really should figure this out and issue a recall since its so damn common.
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      05-24-2022, 06:25 AM   #32
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Just for everyone’s knowledge, the errors are stored by your M2. My technician was able to see close to 100 taillight errors when I brought my M2 in for repairs.
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      05-24-2022, 11:56 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinM View Post
This just happened to me. Back to normal even without turning the car off after a few minutes. I'm due for an oil change, so I'll see what the dealer will do...Doesn't seem BMW has a firm idea on the root cause.
It's been happening since the F22 was launched, first with the non LCI tails which got some attention, and then with the LED LCI tails and never got addressed. There's so many posts from very, very, long ago on the regular F22. I don't understand how it was never fixed or explained.
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      05-24-2022, 12:14 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinM View Post
This just happened to me. Back to normal even without turning the car off after a few minutes. I'm due for an oil change, so I'll see what the dealer will do...Doesn't seem BMW has a firm idea on the root cause.
It's been happening since the F22 was launched, first with the non LCI tails which got some attention, and then with the LED LCI tails and never got addressed. There's so many posts from very, very, long ago on the regular F22. I don't understand how it was never fixed or explained.
The issues with the pre-LCI taillights and the LCI taillights are two exclusively different issues.

The pre-LCI fault has to do with the lack of grounding polarity.

The LCI issues is due to mismatched coding.

Both are easy fixes that can be accomplished at home but some of the folks here seem to put all their mismatched trust in the dealer's solution of swapping perfectly good hardware until the end of time.

If that works for you - or not - cool but it's certainly not the solution to this issue.
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      05-24-2022, 12:25 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
The issues with the pre-LCI taillights and the LCI taillights are two exclusively different issues.

The pre-LCI fault has to do with the lack of grounding polarity.

The LCI issues is due to mismatched coding.

Both are easy fixes that can be accomplished at home but some of the folks here seem to put all their mismatched trust in the dealer's solution of swapping perfectly good hardware until the end of time.

If that works for you - or not - cool but it's certainly not the solution to this issue.
I’ve been trying to find the thread where the guy fixed his issue himself… are you that guy? If so, please elaborate! I’m not afraid to fix mine at home. It’s not working correctly now, anyway.
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      05-24-2022, 12:38 PM   #36
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I’ve already talked to my dealer about this and they were open to me hacking it to cancel the warning.

I don’t like it on principle and I want to use the warranty while I still have it. Why a coding issue would suddenly manifest 2 years into the car’s life cycle and localize to the R tail light and acts intermittently makes no sense to me. But whatever - if I have to code it out, eventually, I will.

Last edited by Rk-d; 05-24-2022 at 12:44 PM..
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      05-24-2022, 12:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10SecGG View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
The issues with the pre-LCI taillights and the LCI taillights are two exclusively different issues.

The pre-LCI fault has to do with the lack of grounding polarity.

The LCI issues is due to mismatched coding.

Both are easy fixes that can be accomplished at home but some of the folks here seem to put all their mismatched trust in the dealer's solution of swapping perfectly good hardware until the end of time.

If that works for you - or not - cool but it's certainly not the solution to this issue.
I've been trying to find the thread where the guy fixed his issue himself… are you that guy? If so, please elaborate! I'm not afraid to fix mine at home. It's not working correctly now, anyway.
I generously posted the solution a few years ago but some rabid forum member here started attacking me, accusing me of everything; from blowing up his car to being the reason he could no longer get an erection. It was quite amusing to me but I didn't want to deal with that nonsense again, so I left this subject alone.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26566062

Since then, he's been permanently banned and hopefully getting the mental help he needed, so I'll give it another shot, since I see you guys are still experiencing this.

In summary, if you are dealing with the LCI taillights, it requires you decode the "bulb checks" with something as simple as the Bimmercode APP.

For expedience, he's a summary I already posted below:


https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26633395

.
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Last edited by Poochie; 05-24-2022 at 01:09 PM..
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      05-24-2022, 12:52 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I generously posted the solution a few years ago but some rabid forum member here started attacking me, accusing me of everything; from blowing up his car to being the reason he could no longer get an erection. It was quite amusing to me but I didn't want to deal with that nonsense again, so I left this subject alone.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26566062

Since then, he's been permanently banned and hopefully getting the mental help he needed, so I'll give it another shot, since I see you guys are still experiencing this.

In summary, if you are dealing with the LCI taillights, it requires you decoded the "bulb checks" with something as simple as the Bimmercode APP.

For expedience, he's a summary I already posted below:


https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26633395
Well, even if no one else appreciates it, I do. Thanks for reposting.
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      05-24-2022, 01:08 PM   #39
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what is the negative thing of doing that? won't tell us the "bulb" is out? is that it?
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      05-24-2022, 01:17 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MooMooM2 View Post
what is the negative thing of doing that? won't tell us the "bulb" is out? is that it?
Yes, that's it. But since LEDs tend to last the life of the vehicle, it really wouldn't be an issue.

The "bulb check" system was designed since the 1990s BMW to detect when an incandescent bulb was blown out.

Since BMW has since moved on to LEDs for the revised LCI model, it's not really necessary and for some weird reason it's still programmed in the M2 LCI incorrectly to assume it's using an incandescent "bulb" instead of an LED.
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      05-24-2022, 02:47 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Yes, that's it. But since LEDs tend to last the life of the vehicle, it really wouldn't be an issue.

The "bulb check" system was designed since the 1990s BMW to detect when an incandescent bulb was blown out.

Since BMW has since moved on to LEDs for the revised LCI model, it's not really necessary and for some weird reason it's still programmed in the M2 LCI incorrectly to assume it's using an incandescent "bulb" instead of an LED.
yeah that is really weird but good find poochie!

I remember reading through that thread and it was a weird vibe haha. What I know is that people getting new lights are not getting the problem fixed or it gets fixed for a few months and then they are back at it so maybe good to just do this fix and call it a day.
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      05-24-2022, 06:20 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I generously posted the solution a few years ago but some rabid forum member here started attacking me, accusing me of everything; from blowing up his car to being the reason he could no longer get an erection. It was quite amusing to me but I didn't want to deal with that nonsense again, so I left this subject alone.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26566062

Since then, he's been permanently banned and hopefully getting the mental help he needed, so I'll give it another shot, since I see you guys are still experiencing this.

In summary, if you are dealing with the LCI taillights, it requires you decode the "bulb checks" with something as simple as the Bimmercode APP.

For expedience, he's a summary I already posted below:


[/url]

.
Thanks! I am right in thinking the default is "Active" and we just need to uncheck that box?
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      05-24-2022, 06:59 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinM View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I generously posted the solution a few years ago but some rabid forum member here started attacking me, accusing me of everything; from blowing up his car to being the reason he could no longer get an erection. It was quite amusing to me but I didn't want to deal with that nonsense again, so I left this subject alone.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26566062

Since then, he's been permanently banned and hopefully getting the mental help he needed, so I'll give it another shot, since I see you guys are still experiencing this.

In summary, if you are dealing with the LCI taillights, it requires you decode the "bulb checks" with something as simple as the Bimmercode APP.

For expedience, he's a summary I already posted below:




.
Thanks! I am right in thinking the default is "Active" and we just need to uncheck that box?
It seems that Bimmercode has made some changes to the wording on their pre-populated option now since I first made these adjustments a few years ago,

It used to be a simple "on/off" check mark but according to their wording, "Active" means you do have LEDs and one would assume that should disable the "warm/cold" bulb check.


However, if you want to guarantee with certainty that it's done properly, go into "Expert Mode" under "REM" and make these direct adjustments below.

This I can guarantee this is 100% effective, as opposed to what Bimmercode's has available in their new pre-populated option. In the many years since I've made these changes, I have not had a single issue, included those that have done the same.

[COLOR="Green"]"SL" = Signal Light[/COLOR]



REM:

3061 LceOutputChannels:

SL_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_L_IS_LED = [COLOR="DarkRed"]aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_R_IS_LED = [COLOR="DarkRed"]aktiv[/COLOR]

SL_2_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_2_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_2_L_IS_LED = [COLOR="DarkRed"]aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_2_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_2_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]nicht_aktiv[/COLOR]
SL_2_R_IS_LED = aktiv

PM me if anything, happy to help.


Here's a snapshot of one of the changes and what it looks like:
Attached Images
  
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      05-24-2022, 07:05 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanG View Post
Usually replacing the rear taillight fixes the problem. There are several threads in the OG side of rear taillight intermittent failure.

Mine has been fine since my taillight was replaced.
Both sides for my vehicle had this happen intermittently, and dealer replaced each time straight away. They said known issue. Since replacing no issues. Now I gotta go back and read about this wreck I scanned past.
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