[ghstm2]

Anyone done their coolant flush and fill on their M2 and use the OEM tools 24444 system? I wanted to see what would be a good suction range due to all the plastic pieces on our vehicles.. would -25 bar be too much?

Also once you have done this coolant refill and bleed, did you also bleed using the built in electric bleeder in the car? Thanks!

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ghstm2

Anyone done their coolant flush and fill on their M2 and use the OEM tools 24444 system? I wanted to see what would be a good suction range due to all the plastic pieces on our vehicles.. would -25 bar be too much?

Also once you have done this coolant refill and bleed, did you also bleed using the built in electric bleeder in the car? Thanks!

I'm planning to use a vaccum bleeder this summer so I can't tell you too much about the procedure yet. But you absolutely need to run the built in bleeder afterwards to ensure the heater core is fully bled and any air pockets are removed. It's also specified in ISTA to do so.

[TheHaze]

Originally Posted by ghstm2

Anyone done their coolant flush and fill on their M2 and use the OEM tools 24444 system? I wanted to see what would be a good suction range due to all the plastic pieces on our vehicles.. would -25 bar be too much?

Also once you have done this coolant refill and bleed, did you also bleed using the built in electric bleeder in the car? Thanks!

I can't comment on the vacuum system as I just drained, filled, and used the in-car bleeding procedure when I flushed my coolant. I haven't noticed any issues doing it this way. Here's a thread I started before I did the service, it has some info as well as a DIY video that was pretty helpful: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2021203

[ghstm2]

Originally Posted by F87source

I'm planning to use a vaccum bleeder this summer so I can't tell you too much about the procedure yet. But you absolutely need to run the built in bleeder afterwards to ensure the heater core is fully bled and any air pockets are removed. It's also specified in ISTA to do so.

Someone mentioned to leave the car on accessory mode turn the fan speed to low, heat on high to open up the heater core to allow the system to expel the coolant trapped in there?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ghstm2

Someone mentioned to leave the car on accessory mode turn the fan speed to low, heat on high to open up the heater core to allow the system to expel the coolant trapped in there?

I've never seen people do it that way and ISTA doesn't outline that as the procedure to follow so I am unsure if that's the best way to do it - because I am now worried about the heater core and all those lines being subjected to the large vacuum induced by the vacuum bleeder. But If those components are ok with the vaccum then I don't see why not.

[jefe2000]

Originally Posted by TheHaze

I can't comment on the vacuum system as I just drained, filled, and used the in-car bleeding procedure when I flushed my coolant. I haven't noticed any issues doing it this way.

I’m not due to perform a coolant flush for another couple years — I’m halfway through the four year cycle — but this is also how I’m planning to go about it.

Originally Posted by F87source

I'm planning to use a vacuum bleeder this summer so I can't tell you too much about the procedure yet.

Excellent. I’ll definitely keep an eye out for your report on using a vacuum bleeder. There’s always more for me to learn!

[tux2005]

Is there any reason to really consider not doing the built-in bleed procedure? It makes sense to me to try to use the vacuum system anyway to make things easier for the built-in procedure but it doesn't require any sort of scan tool or ISTA etc to run, is battery draw likely to be that bad?

[ghstm2]

Originally Posted by tux2005

Is there any reason to really consider not doing the built-in bleed procedure? It makes sense to me to try to use the vacuum system anyway to make things easier for the built-in procedure but it doesn't require any sort of scan tool or ISTA etc to run, is battery draw likely to be that bad?

I don’t have ISTA so I can’t really say. But according to some people on here ISTA states to do the vacuum fill procedure as well as doing the built-in procedure from the car. Since the built in procedure could take up to 15mins, I will plug mine into a trickle charger while doing the built in bleed procedure.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ghstm2

I don’t have ISTA so I can’t really say. But according to some people on here ISTA states to do the vacuum fill procedure as well as doing the built-in procedure from the car. Since the built in procedure could take up to 15mins, I will plug mine into a trickle charger while doing the built in bleed procedure.

That's correct, ISTA specifies to do both, vaccum first then built in bleed after.

Originally Posted by tux2005

Is there any reason to really consider not doing the built-in bleed procedure? It makes sense to me to try to use the vacuum system anyway to make things easier for the built-in procedure but it doesn't require any sort of scan tool or ISTA etc to run, is battery draw likely to be that bad?

No need for ISTA or anything to trigger it. Just turn the car to accessory mode, heater to high, fan speed 1, low beams on, press gas pedal all the way down till the water pump runs. It will go for about 10 mins.

In 2020 when I did my coolant bleed I used my ctek in supply mode and bleed the system 10-15 times consecutively till the coolant didn't drop anymore. Then i let the car charge, and the next day I did another 10-15 bleeds just to make sure there were absolutely no bubbles left.

[ggggbmw]

When changing any fluid, I like to collect everything that came out, and measure it. Then I know if what I put in roughly matches what came out, and I have a high likelihood that it's properly filled.

I've done coolant twice on my M235, which essentially the same N55 as the M2. Only used the electronic bleed process. Both times the volumes were within 100ml of each other.

So, I'm thinking the electronic bleed alone is fine. I'm sure the full vacuum has advantages, but some of those advantages might just be faster cleaner fills in a production shop environment. No carefully pouring fluid into a tippy funnel at a slow rate. Just one big simple whoosh and it's done. Could also just be a BMW habit thing given their history of needing it.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ggggbmw

When changing any fluid, I like to collect everything that came out, and measure it. Then I know if what I put in roughly matches what came out, and I have a high likelihood that it's properly filled.

I've done coolant twice on my M235, which essentially the same N55 as the M2. Only used the electronic bleed process. Both times the volumes were within 100ml of each other.

So, I'm thinking the electronic bleed alone is fine. I'm sure the full vacuum has advantages, but some of those advantages might just be faster cleaner fills in a production shop environment. No carefully pouring fluid into a tippy funnel at a slow rate. Just one big simple whoosh and it's done. Could also just be a BMW habit thing given their history of needing it.

Vaccum bleeder is required for the s55 or any other car withh a mechanical pump. I've talked to a bmw shop foreman and he told me they use the built in procedure for electronic water pump cars and the vacuum bleeder for mechanical pump cars.

[David1]

When it comes time to change my coolant, I’ll just have the dealer do it with the vacuum system. I can do it myself, but there’s nowhere for me to take the used coolant, and I refuse to dump it on the ground and harm the environment.

[jefe2000]

Originally Posted by David1

there’s nowhere for me to take the used coolant, and I refuse to dump it on the ground and harm the environment.

Props for not dumping it on the ground!

Out here in CA, the county household hazardous waste facility takes it. I drive up, show my Driver’s License, pop the trunk, they grab the bottle and shut the trunk, and I drive off. Done and dusted.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by jefe2000

Props for not dumping it on the ground!

Out here in CA, the county household hazardous waste facility takes it. I drive up, show my Driver’s License, pop the trunk, they grab the bottle and shut the trunk, and I drive off. Done and dusted.

I bring it to the fire station, that's where they take it in Canada.

But yeah it's best not to just dump it into the environment