[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by gallahadd

It was in the Camera-based Driver Assistance System area of bimmercode. The executive package does include lane departure warning, pedestrian warning, frontal collision as well. So the fact that the option I was activating seemed within reason of alerting me to curb or grass as it has the camera. However, agreed that if I needed sensors that are not in the car, surprised it showed up in simple mode if that is not even possible. Thought that was the purpose of reading my VIN etc.

I took it to where I bought it thinking that would be best.

I did email bimmercode and just waiting for a response.

Okay I see what you did now, you changed road edge warning from not active to active. You're right, that feature should work with cars that have lane assist as it is not front camera/pdc based.

The thing is i've never heard of road edge warning before and haven't seen it appear on any esys cheat sheets for the f22/f87.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwv...hKSWdRTDg/edit

But like you said, if the feature appears based on a vin reading why wound't it work?

I guess what happened then might not be related to what you coded, and it might have been because of a connection disruption during the coding process itself.

This has happened to a few others before you and has led to problems like the nav not working amongst other things. Never seen a vin change though, that's new.

What kind of connection are you using? Wifi? Bluetooth? Was your car running at the time? It definitely appears as though whatever dongle you're using was defective or the connection wasn't stable enough to be coding wirelessly. I would always make sure to code over wifi (not bluetooth) while sitting in the drivers seat with the engine running. It minimizes the risk of a dropped signal.

If you had the engine running and were seated in the car and were using a wifi connection then you may just have a defective/poorly working dongle and that might have been the cause of the failure.

I've had plenty of dropped connections but luckily none occurred mid coding. I would feel much safer if there was a cable we could use, but this seems like the only option available for bimmercode/carly, unless of course you want to learn how to use esys.

Sucks that this happened to you but unfortunately it's a risk that comes with coding/coding wirelessly. If the connection drops mid code, all sorts of crazy things can happen.

All you can really hope for is that bmw sorts it out and you keep your warranty. I'm sorry that I don't have any other helpful advice other than just a few tips on how to reduce the risk of this reoccurring in the future.

[gallahadd]

Originally Posted by andrewc89

What kind of connection are you using? Wifi? Bluetooth? Was your car running at the time? It definitely appears as though whatever dongle you're using was defective or the connection wasn't stable enough to be coding wirelessly. I would always make sure to code over wifi (not bluetooth) while sitting in the drivers seat with the engine running. It minimizes the risk of a dropped signal.

If you had the engine running and were seated in the car and were using a wifi connection then you may just have a defective/poorly working dongle and that might have been the cause of the failure.

I've had plenty of dropped connections but luckily none occurred mid coding. I would feel much safer if there was a cable we could use, but this seems like the only option available for bimmercode/carly, unless of course you want to learn how to use esys.

Sucks that this happened to you but unfortunately it's a risk that comes with coding/coding wirelessly. If the connection drops mid code, all sorts of crazy things can happen.

All you can really hope for is that bmw sorts it out and you keep your warranty. I'm sorry that I don't have any other helpful advice other than just a few tips on how to reduce the risk of this reoccurring in the future.

I was using wifi, sitting in the driver seat and car turned on but not with the engine running. I did not know it could be done with the engine running as that is not what directions said.

I guess I just did not realize that this could be such a bad problem with possibly voiding my entire warranty. Since so many people in forums said it wouldn't and that so many people were doing it, that I figured it had to be ok as long as I wasn't doing expert, out of this world changes.

Is there anything I can do to fight it or prepare to fight it while I wait to hear back on Monday? Does BimmerCode give that kind of warning? Not to throw the great work the developer did not this but if he is charging money for something that could destroy $10k worth of warranty then I have some type of assurance that it is partially ok/allowed.

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by gallahadd

I was using wifi, sitting in the driver seat and car turned on but not with the engine running. I did not know it could be done with the engine running as that is not what directions said.

I guess I just did not realize that this could be such a bad problem with possibly voiding my entire warranty. Since so many people in forums said it wouldn't and that so many people were doing it, that I figured it had to be ok as long as I wasn't doing expert, out of this world changes.

Is there anything I can do to fight it or prepare to fight it while I wait to hear back on Monday? Does BimmerCode give that kind of warning? Not to throw the great work the developer did not this but if he is charging money for something that could destroy $10k worth of warranty then I have some type of assurance that it is partially ok/allowed.

I'm not sure I'd place blame on the app or the app developer If it was a hardware issue that caused the dropped signal. Anytime you're coding or tuning a car there's always a possibility something could go wrong.

I don't know that the dealership can/will void your warranty, but you may have to pay them out of pocket to recode the car/fix the issue since it was your fault. It totally depends on the dealership and what bmwag says about it if they are contacting them about it.

A while ago when I was new to the app like yourself I accidentally turned off rev match. Backups didn't fix the issue so I had it brought in for service. The dealer I go to fixed the coding issue I had for free and didn't void my warranty if that makes you feel any better. He just said next time it happened i'd be paying for the istep update out of pocket.

Hopefully your situation takes a similar route. Best of luck. Let us know how it goes.

[boostm3]

Andrew, as youve said, you have a mod-friendly dealer, who would be very forgiving for a situation like Gallahad's. But situations like his, and they are not unique, present exactly the reason many of us have chosen to use the harness bypass method to rid ourselves of ASD, for instance, rather than coding. Coding is great, and convenient when it works, but its not foolproof and dealerproof.

[gallahadd]

Originally Posted by boostm3

Andrew, as youve said, you have a mod-friendly dealer, who would be very forgiving for a situation like Gallahad's. But situations like his, and they are not unique, present exactly the reason many of us have chosen to use the harness bypass method to rid ourselves of ASD, for instance, rather than coding. Coding is great, and convenient when it works, but its not foolproof and dealerproof.

i know i can google it but what is the harness bypass method?

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by gallahadd

i know i can google it but what is the harness bypass method?

Its a 15 minute installation which physically bypasses the ASD amp.. From what I understand it accomplishes exactly what the coding does, but without the failure opportunity.. Harness price is about $60 from a company in Fl. which makes them up.. Very happy with the result!

http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19019063

http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...hlight=technic

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by boostm3

Andrew, as youve said, you have a mod-friendly dealer, who would be very forgiving for a situation like Gallahad's. But situations like his, and they are not unique, present exactly the reason many of us have chosen to use the harness bypass method to rid ourselves of ASD, for instance, rather than coding. Coding is great, and convenient when it works, but its not foolproof and dealerproof.

Correct, but nobody has ever claimed coding to be foolproof or dealerproof. When you modify your car in anyway, you're gambling. Even with something like a bypass harness. If the wires were to melt and damage the amp, bmw isn't going to be responsible for that. If an aftermarket modification causes an issue you're the one who's liable for it, that's all there is to it.

If you don't want to take the risk of losing your connection while you're coding (and having something like this occur) you should be using ESYS instead of mobile apps like carly and bimmercode. It's a more involved but much safer alternative. That being said the failure rate for coding via mobile device is low and there are only a handful of people with stories like the one above. The vast majority gets everything done without an issue.

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by andrewc89

Correct, but nobody has ever claimed coding to be foolproof or dealerproof. When you modify your car in anyway, you're gambling. Even with something like a bypass harness. If the wires were to melt and damage the amp, bmw isn't going to be responsible for that. If an aftermarket modification causes an issue you're the one who's liable for it, that's all there is to it.

If you don't want to take the risk of losing your connection while you're coding (and having something like this occur) you should be using ESYS instead of mobile apps like carly and bimmercode. It's a more involved but much safer alternative. That being said the failure rate for coding via mobile device is low and there are only a handful of people with stories like the one above. The vast majority gets everything done without an issue.

Its absolutely a choice everybody must make. Ive been around the block and have gone from full bolt ons, to supercharging normally aspirated M3s, to completely stock, and while I had a lot of fun and learned alot over the last 20 years of messing with tunes and upgrading cars both under warranty and not, Im at the point where I'll gladly wait to tune or code my car til its off warranty... Everybody will eventually learn for themselves what they want to do and what they want to deal with.

[Kid Eh]

Originally Posted by andrewc89

Front Electronic Module
>
Comfort Closing w/Key Fob
>
Active

Nope. That's already active.

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by Kid Eh

Nope. That's already active.

Weird, it should work.

Check here and make sure this setting is active:

Front Electronic Module
>
Expert Mode
>
3053 PwMaster
>
KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG_FB
>
Aktiv


If this is active then I'm not sure what else you could do. It should be working with these settings. Maybe adjusting the delay would help.

Front Electronic Module
>
Comfort Closing Delay
>
No delay

[Kid Eh]

Originally Posted by andrewc89

Weird, it should work.

Check here and make sure this setting is active:

Front Electronic Module
>
Expert Mode
>
3053 PwMaster
>
KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG_FB
>
Aktiv


If this is active then I'm not sure what else you could do. It should be working with these settings. Maybe adjusting the delay would help.

Front Electronic Module
>
Comfort Closing Delay
>
No delay

I'll check it in the morning. Thanks so much for your help.

[lyric911]

I am having a couple of weird issues I think are related to some coding I've done, but can't figure out how to resolve.

Symptoms: 1) Auto high beam button does nothing any more (100% sure it used to work as normal. 2) Rear fog button no longer does anything. I coded this/modded the physical button months ago and used it several times and it worked perfectly as well.

I can only think of a couple of things that have changed recently that could have any impact. Last coding update I made to my car was to change the comfort close delay to 0.5 seconds instead of 0 seconds so that my mirrors wouldn't fold every time I locked, only if I held briefly. I also tuned my car recently with BM3. I am fairly certain (99% ish) that the 2 issues above had appeared before I did the tune, though.

Any ideas? Also, is it possible to download backups made with BimmerCode so that I can compare and see what was changed? It's really tough with just a date to recall what might have changed.

[lyric911]

Originally Posted by lyric911

I am having a couple of weird issues I think are related to some coding I've done, but can't figure out how to resolve.

Symptoms: 1) Auto high beam button does nothing any more (100% sure it used to work as normal. 2) Rear fog button no longer does anything. I coded this/modded the physical button months ago and used it several times and it worked perfectly as well.

I can only think of a couple of things that have changed recently that could have any impact. Last coding update I made to my car was to change the comfort close delay to 0.5 seconds instead of 0 seconds so that my mirrors wouldn't fold every time I locked, only if I held briefly. I also tuned my car recently with BM3. I am fairly certain (99% ish) that the 2 issues above had appeared before I did the tune, though.

Any ideas? Also, is it possible to download backups made with BimmerCode so that I can compare and see what was changed? It's really tough with just a date to recall what might have changed.

Update: My headlights are also on 100% of the time when the ignition is on, whether the car is running or not. The position of the headlight switch also does nothing.

Per Stephan's advice, I restored my oldest backups, but that didn't fix anything. My headlights are still buggered.

Only other thing I could think of that changed recently that could remotely be related is that i installed the MPE which does add some wiring to the rear fuse box, but I can't fathom how that'd be related. Please, anyone have any ideas? Headlights stuck on all the time (and the other issues) is driving me batty!

[Nezil]

I thought I'd jump in here and make a comment, because there are now two people (gallahadd, and lyric911) finding issues with coding, and I'm often quoted as one of the people that had issues with Bimmercode in the past, which is true.

I think it's important to understand how the coding is happening with Bimmercode, and why backups aren't working for you, or are confusing. I'll try to contrast this with E-Sys, which works in a slightly, but important different way.

First though, I'll explain the issue I was having, and what I believe to be the root cause.

I got my car in November, and had BimmerCode already installed, and a vGate iCar 2 WiFi ready to do some coding pretty much as soon as I picked up the car.

The very first time I tried some coding, I chose FEM_BODY, which has the largest amount of data that needs to be transferred. Reading the coding took quite a while, several minutes, and it failed the first time. I tried again, and was successful, though it did take a while. Then I made some coding changes, applied them, and all was fine, although, as I said, slow.

When I was coding the NBT module, loading the coding data back after making changes failed, and I had to 'Restore' a backup. This worked, but I got an error in iDrive afterwards, that needed a special dealer unlock code to re-activate it.

I contacted the BimmerCode developer, and he pointed me to a dealer, because there was nothing he could do to help.

Some, including the developer, have suggested that my vGate dongle may be faulty. I have replaced this, and found exactly the same behaviour (frequent timeouts when reading or writing). I believe that my issue is caused by some WiFi incompatibility between my phone, and the vGate dongle.

With the wide number of Android devices on the market, and all of the different software versions, I believe that this is the weak link for BimmerCode, and though I wouldn't blame the developer directly, because there is nothing he can do about it, I would extend a word of caution to users. In general, those that use iPhones and iPads, appear to have fewer issues...

So, the way BimmerCode works, is to read out the data from a module, backup this data, and you then make changes to this data before loading it into the module again.

If anything goes wrong with the initial reading, there is no backup to restore from. If you loose your backups, there is no backup to restore from... you're in trouble. If you mess up your coding and that change gets put into your backup, when you restore it will still be there... you're in trouble.

E-Sys works differently. Within E-Sys, it's possible to generate default factory coding files for every module, as long as you have a couple of files that provide details of your vehicle, which is the very first thing that you backup and keep safe.

Most of what you do with E-Sys is offline, not connected to the car, and the flashing process to load your changes to the vehicle takes literally seconds.

It is more complicated, but not excessively so, and it provides you with a fail safe if things go wrong. It's also more reliable from the get go.

I'm confident that if gallahadd and lyric911 were to send me a couple of files from their car created by E-Sys, even in it's current non-functioning state, I'd be able to talk them through getting things back to stock. With BimmerCode... they're stuck with having to request the dealer for help.

[Nezil]

One thing that I did early on, was to keep a record of the changes that I made through coding. I did this on Google Sheets, so that I would know what was changed from default, and I also have backup files for each module and each date in my document so that I can really easily go back to stock, or to a date, any time I want.

As I explained, in E-Sys, for going back to stock, this isn't necessary, but I do keep backups of the stock module data anyway; I'm just anal about keeping backups I guess.

I thought it might be helpful to users on here to see the sort of documentation that I'm talking about, so here's a link to my real document. It's read only, because I don't want you messing with it, but feel free to take a look:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

[outerbelt]

Not sure if this has been posted - but had a question and someone had posted it in another forum.

Our iDrive screens have auto-dim controls - just like iPhones, etc. If you ever are driving in overcast weather or a garage, you might notice the brighness level isn't quite 100%.

To adjust brightness manually, and turn off the auto settings, go to this module in Expert Mode:

HU_NBT2 - 3005 Display PIP Info - DIM_VARIANT

And once in that module:
- Value will be set to NEW
- Simply change the value to OLD

The "old" will change the iDrive display menu setting for brightness in day - AND night. The "new" setting only allows you to change the brightness level at night (when you navigate to the setting now, it says "brightness at night" or something like that).

This makes a BIG difference during the daytime - no more washed out, dimmed iDrive screen. Just make sure you turn brightness to 100% in iDrive display settings (it defaults to 50% after you code).

Background:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...php?p=20325296

[RyderSU]

This question is for the Android app which I assume is the same with updates etc. If I get the bluetooth adapter, I'm still able to connect to bluetooth via iDrive and play my music while coding right? Also, after I code my car, do I need to keep the adapter plugged in?

[silverado]

Originally Posted by boostm3

Its absolutely a choice everybody must make. Ive been around the block and have gone from full bolt ons, to supercharging normally aspirated M3s, to completely stock, and while I had a lot of fun and learned alot over the last 20 years of messing with tunes and upgrading cars both under warranty and not, Im at the point where I'll gladly wait to tune or code my car til its off warranty... Everybody will eventually learn for themselves what they want to do and what they want to deal with.

I agree.

Reading this thread has been VERY helpful. I had bought a WiFi dongle before I got my LCI M2 two months ago and was planning to use BimmerCode as soon as I took delivery. But I started reading about issues here just before receiving the car so I didn't pull the trigger on buying the App immediately, and now and I don't think I ever will.

Not trying to discount the great work the developers of BimmerCode and other apps for that matter has done, but on the losing warranty risk spectrum for this car, I am being very conservative. It's crazy for me to treat my $55K+ car like a $700 iPhone that I'm jailbreaking to add a couple of features that Apple doesn't want to give me. I know the analogy is not perfect, but it has enough similarities. Of course each person will have their own risk tolerance.

I will at most use the ASD harness. If I keep the car past the warranty, I may play with coding.

Best of luck to gallahadd and anyone else facing a risk to their warranty after coding. I hope your dealers/BMW cooperate and reset the software for you without issues.

[Chocolatero€]

Originally Posted by Chocolatero€

Hey there! Im new here, enjoying a F20 120d atm.
Got the bimmercode app and its pretty good, but I would like to ask you guys if is it possible to code the car to use open and close the car using the same button of the key (the bmw logo for example)

Thanks a bunch

Anyone?

[silverado]

Originally Posted by Chocolatero

Anyone?

May I ask why this is important?

[AndrewC1989]

Originally Posted by Chocolatero€

Anyone?

Not something I'm aware of that you can do. Never heard of anyone doing this.

Originally Posted by outerbelt

Not sure if this has been posted - but had a question and someone had posted it in another forum.

Our iDrive screens have auto-dim controls - just like iPhones, etc. If you ever are driving in overcast weather or a garage, you might notice the brighness level isn't quite 100%.

To adjust brightness manually, and turn off the auto settings, go to this module in Expert Mode:

HU_NBT2 - 3005 Display PIP Info - DIM_VARIANT

And once in that module:
- Value will be set to NEW
- Simply change the value to OLD

The "old" will change the iDrive display menu setting for brightness in day - AND night. The "new" setting only allows you to change the brightness level at night (when you navigate to the setting now, it says "brightness at night" or something like that).

This makes a BIG difference during the daytime - no more washed out, dimmed iDrive screen. Just make sure you turn brightness to 100% in iDrive display settings (it defaults to 50% after you code).

Background:
http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...php?p=20325296

Just tried this and it worked great, thanks for the info. I set it at 75% b/c 100% is too bright IMO. If anyone else wants to do this the specific steps were:

Headunit
>
Expert Mode
>
3005 DISPLAY_PIP_CONFIG
>
DIM_VARIANT
>
OLD

[Chocolatero€]

Thanks for the reply. My solution migh be get a comfort access retrofit