[filet.M2c]

Got it sorted, the millway setup requires transferring the stock bushing from the top hat. It was cracked causing the spring to bind and unload. Didn't realize how negatively it impacted the ride quality. It has been sorted now and ride significantly smoother. Initial impressions on this setup are great.

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[Rundskop]

Originally Posted by filet.M2c

Got it sorted, the millway setup requires transferring the stock bushing from the top hat. It was cracked causing the spring to bind and unload. Didn't realize how negatively it impacted the ride quality. It has been sorted now and ride significantly smoother. Initial impressions on this setup are great.

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View post on imgur.com

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This is helpful. I'm getting the same noise as you on the front left, that can be felt through the steering wheel. Only at low speeds, not when parked.

Do you have Millway Street or Race plates?

Do you have thrust sheets for the springs?

Still not sure if mine is the Ohlins damper bushing (BMS MR40) and/or the camber plates.

[M1500Z]

I've been sitting on this for a while and forgotten about it. When I had the issue with the front struts, my shop worked to help eliminate the camber plates and spring tension to verify it was the damper making the noise. I sent this video to Öhlins USA at the time to help them understand the sound and when it happens.

https://youtube.com/shorts/gC7ocRRxiU0

When you watch the video, notice that the car is barely moving at all. The noise is caused by any small movement/load to the struts. I won't say that a loose top-nut would never sound like that/wouldn't make noise at that small level of movement, but in my limited experience, it's a different sound and requires a little more force.

[Rundskop]

I added Torrington bearing sheets to the front springs and it got rid of the "clunk" at low speed steering which was just the coil spring binding.

Glad it wasn't anything with the dampers.

[gphung]

Originally Posted by gphung

Update, went through the warranty process despite technically being out of the limited warranty period. The repair was covered and so was the return shipping. Will confirm if it fixed anything when I reinstall them in spring.

Forgot to update. Got the front struts back on with Vorshlag plates and the noise is now gone.

[Rub1con76]

Originally Posted by warrenw

Just chiming in that my Ohlins are noooisy. I have two separate things - "clunking" when at slow speeds /wheel turned / going up an incline/decline. Second is ticking noises when going over bumps. I was told that the ticking noises are because the cup that the suspension sits in is steel whereas the ohlins are aluminum so it makes a noise and you have to grease it every once in awhile. Haven't greased it yet.

This is exacty what i'm feeling and hearing.
The ohlins are about 6 months on my car now and got this issue from the start.

I find this very frustrating for this expensive mod.

[warrenw]

Originally Posted by Rub1con76

This is exacty what i'm feeling and hearing.
The ohlins are about 6 months on my car now and got this issue from the start.

I find this very frustrating for this expensive mod.

I rebuilt my Ohlins and all my noise related to this went away.

[Rub1con76]

Originally Posted by warrenw

I rebuilt my Ohlins and all my noise related to this went away.

How do you mean rebuilt them?

[warrenw]

Originally Posted by Rub1con76

How do you mean rebuilt them?

New shim stack, revalved for higher spring rate, new fluids, new seals, dynoed.

[Rub1con76]

Originally Posted by warrenw

New shim stack, revalved for higher spring rate, new fluids, new seals, dynoed.

Sounds a bit strange, we have to rebuild our 3500€ set. Or is'nt it

[warrenw]

Originally Posted by Rub1con76

Sounds a bit strange, we have to rebuild our 3500€ set. Or is'nt it

Just so I don't mislead anybody - I didn't do this because I was chasing the noise. I did it because I was changing the way I was setting up my suspension ("Schirmer spec") because I was going more track dedicated, and my only option was a rebuild or buy new coilovers. I chose rebuild because the barrier of entry is lower.
Also, my car did two ocean crossings in that time plus daily use of about 45k kms. ALL coilovers need a rebuild at some point, and it was the time for mine. Rear was becoming quite unpredictable on track, after the change it's so incredibly planted it's like a different car.

[Rub1con76]

Because the knocking is not always there, its very hard to tackle the problem.
It seems that it occurs only when i steer left side up or down a driveway or so.

My installer thinks its a wheel bearing

[Talx]

Well I just want to add that I had ticking and binding noises from the front left strut for some time and it would disappear and come back, we dismantled the camber plates and cheacked them and everything looked ok but the sounds kept on, then last week I decided to change my springs from 90 to 120 to suit my track use better and I noticed two things. first lots of small stones had bedded them selfs in between the first and second spring coil, secondly I decided to completely remove the damper from the front axle and what I could observe was small stones and debris where getting between the gold mounting cup and the hub carrier. After cleaning it all up all sounds, ticking, clicking and binding are gone 🙌

[Fabb]

Isn’t this a known issue with camber plate?

[Rub1con76]

Months further now and stil no cure.
At first it looked like i had to drive a while before the sound shows up.

Now it looks like that the time is shorter now.

On FB was another discussion and they pinned a few options the knocking sound can produce

[HP Autosport]

Use chassis ears to pin point the source of noise.

Inner and outer tie-rod noise should be fairly straight forward to pinpoint. Not typically a noise that would come and go. Same with ball joint noises.

You could also reinstall the OE suspension or just the top mount to eliminate noise from the Ohlins or camber plates.

[aatlas]

Took me a few attempts to get this setup right. (Ohlins road and track + millway race camber plates) 1. Make sure you have the correct orientation of the struts. The M2 requires left/right struts to be swapped compared to an M3/M4. You will also need the adapter kit. Photos attached.

[jayk12]

Originally Posted by M1500Z

I've been sitting on this for a while and forgotten about it. When I had the issue with the front struts, my shop worked to help eliminate the camber plates and spring tension to verify it was the damper making the noise. I sent this video to Öhlins USA at the time to help them understand the sound and when it happens.

https://youtube.com/shorts/gC7ocRRxiU0

When you watch the video, notice that the car is barely moving at all. The noise is caused by any small movement/load to the struts. I won't say that a loose top-nut would never sound like that/wouldn't make noise at that small level of movement, but in my limited experience, it's a different sound and requires a little more force.

I have this exact sound on mine. I am on R&T with Millway Street Top Mounts. I have spoken to my distributor who has confirm another customer has the same problem. Now I have to take the dampers of and send them off under warranty to get repaired!

What spring rate are you guys running? I have the recommended springs front 90 and rear 190, but its quite stiff on back roads so been advised to drop the rear springs to 160.

Cheers.

[usc335]

Originally Posted by jayk12

I have this exact sound on mine. I am on R&T with Millway Street Top Mounts. I have spoken to my distributor who has confirm another customer has the same problem. Now I have to take the dampers of and send them off under warranty to get repaired!

What spring rate are you guys running? I have the recommended springs front 90 and rear 190, but its quite stiff on back roads so been advised to drop the rear springs to 160.

Cheers.

My Ohlins were just repaired - see this thread:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...8#post30344538

The springs I'm running are 80 N/mm in front and 160 N/mm in the rear and I'm very happy with the ride quality. My friend with the standard 90 & 190 springs says my car rides way better than his.

[David.m]

Originally Posted by usc335

My Ohlins were just repaired - see this thread:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...8#post30344538

The springs I'm running are 80 N/mm in front and 160 N/mm in the rear and I'm very happy with the ride quality. My friend with the standard 90 & 190 springs says my car rides way better than his.

Let's hope the knocking doesn't return as quickly as I recently experienced! I wonder if this is an issue with Ohlins struts for other makes? I assume the bushing isn't a part unique to their BMW struts, it's frustrating as these coilovers are otherwise a great product (& luckily I can remove/install myself so don't suffer labour costs). I really like being able to adjust all 4 shocks quickly with the car on the ground.

[jayk12]

Originally Posted by usc335

My Ohlins were just repaired - see this thread:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...8#post30344538

The springs I'm running are 80 N/mm in front and 160 N/mm in the rear and I'm very happy with the ride quality. My friend with the standard 90 & 190 springs says my car rides way better than his.

Great to hear, I did think about dropping the rear spring to the 160. How is it over undulations and dips at speed? Currently I set the damper soft but the bounce is not nice, so I stiffen up and its much better but then the car feels really firm.

Maybe changing the springs is the way to go.

[usc335]

Originally Posted by jayk12

Great to hear, I did think about dropping the rear spring to the 160. How is it over undulations and dips at speed? Currently I set the damper soft but the bounce is not nice, so I stiffen up and its much better but then the car feels really firm.

Maybe changing the springs is the way to go.

I think it handles them well - certainly much better than the stock suspension.