[popcornten]

How much negative camber have you been able to get with the factory setup? I've done one weekend with the car and going to order two new RT660 fronts before heading to COTA. Is there much to be gained doing an alignment on factory suspension or not worth it?

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by popcornten

How much negative camber have you been able to get with the factory setup? I've done one weekend with the car and going to order two new RT660 fronts before heading to COTA. Is there much to be gained doing an alignment on factory suspension or not worth it?

Every little bit helps but you are still going to trash the outsides out at COTA with the oem camber maxed out. I probably wouldn’t mess with it until you have camber plates unless you think it might be off or something. Even with the stock alignment the car is a lot of fun out there just a bit harsh on the tires. Enjoy COTA!

[CSBM5]

Front camber is non-adjustable. The only thing you could do up front is make sure the toe-in is set properly. If you don't do camber plates and want an OE solution, you can gain 0.5 degrees more negative camber with the BMW replacement hubs (note, that still won't be enough for tracking).

[tropicatango]

not enough on stock setup, camber plates are an absolute must.
i run -3.2 street and track and it's not too much

[GasBurnlife(landapanda)]

I run 3.2 up front and 2.2 in the back. Camber plates are a must and I have been very happy with the M Performance Suspension.

If you do a lot of street driving, you can go a bit less aggressive and drop it down to 3/2 F/B.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by landapanda

I run 3.2 up front and 2.2 in the back. Camber plates are a must and I have been very happy with the M Performance Suspension.

If you do a lot of street driving, you can go a bit less aggressive and drop it down to 3/2 F/B.

How are you liking 2.2 on the back? Been at 2.0 the last couple of outings & thinking of trying 2.2.

[GasBurnlife(landapanda)]

Frankly, I can't tell the difference in terms of handling between 2.0 and 2.2, so I am mainly judging the camber by the amount of tire ware on the outside edges. 2.2 seems to be a good compromise between track and street. I drive to VIR and Glen couple times a year, so I need to keep an eye out on wearing the insides of the street tires prematurely.

I plan to stick with the 3.2/2.2 setup.

[booya_45]

Originally Posted by landapanda

Frankly, I can't tell the difference in terms of handling between 2.0 and 2.2, so I am mainly judging the camber by the amount of tire ware on the outside edges. 2.2 seems to be a good compromise between track and street. I drive to VIR and Glen couple times a year, so I need to keep an eye out on wearing the insides of the street tires prematurely.

I plan to stick with the 3.2/2.2 setup.

You drive to those tracks with that much camber? 3.2/2.2?

[Fabb]

Originally Posted by booya_45

You drive to those tracks with that much camber? 3.2/2.2?

It's completely fine for the street. One track day and your tire wear will be even

[GasBurnlife(landapanda)]

Originally Posted by booya_45

You drive to those tracks with that much camber? 3.2/2.2?

Absolutely. I don't drive my car to work and only take it on a occasional weeknight or weekend drives. I noticed more inside tire wear on tires with a softer sidewalk like the 4s. The REs have been solid and I have multiple trip to VIR and The Glen on them. I bring 4 spare tires with me for the track, and have finally been able to get close to an even wear on the take-off slicks that I now run. Dinan monoballs, H&R front sway bar, and the M Performance Suspension cranked to -1 click all around are a huge improvement over the stock setup and keeps body roll to a minimum.

[booya_45]

Cool. I was contemplating doing the same. That’s reassuring that other people are doing so, yet without significant tire wear.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Booya,

You can run a "set and forget" Neg camber of 3.0-3.2 up front for both track & street.

The key is to run zero toe on the front. Any toe at all when you've added tons of Neg camber will wear the inside edges of your tires quickly on the street.

As for the back a little toe in is fine for stability.

3.0-3.2 Neg up front is for cars with Coilovers, much higher than OEM spring rates and 200 cheaters, or R compound tires.

I've always used a pyrometer to find the right camber settings on my M cars. Then I dial in the suspension (compression /rebound) settings after that's set.

HTH,
Steve

[GasBurnlife(landapanda)]

Good point in the toe. I run zero toe in up front.

[booya_45]

Good stuff. Thanks fellas.