[5.M0NSTER]

I find it difficult to shift fast. I find I need to pause a fraction of a second after the clutch pedal hits the floor to pull of a smooth shift.

I never notice this at the track, because I make sure to have the clutch all the way down and I’m deliberate to make sure I’m hitting the next gear.

But on the street in DSC off when I’m just cruising I notice it’s easy to let the rpm drop a bit too much so you get a bit of a jerk on clutch release.

Then when I’m joining around I have to slow my shifts down. Otherwise I will get grind on 1-2 shift.

[Nezil]

In this thread, about the removal of the CDV, I talked about my thoughts on the effect of removing the CDV, and I think they're relevant to this thread. My comments are copied below, but the thread is worth reading:

As for the improvement without the CDV... I've only driven the car twice, but I'm already going to say that the improvement is MASSIVE!

Every car I've had since I started driving 24 years ago, has been a manual, with the exception of my previous car that I had for 4 years. I'm pretty familiar with manual gearboxes then, but I was never really satisfied with the gearbox in the M2, but couldn't put my finger on why... Now, having removed the CDV, I can say that it was 100% the reason why, but I'll dive into the actual differences a little deeper for anyone on the fence.

With the CDV in place, the pedal position and time at which the clutch engages is unpredictable. With time and experience, you can try and learn the behaviour, but I still found that I'd get jerky shifts sometimes, particularly in slow moving traffic where you're either stopping and starting, or shifting back and forth between 1st and second at low speeds. I also felt that pulling away it was difficult to modulate the clutch as I'd like to. It wasn't jerky, but difficult to do quickly and smoothly.

Everything I've said so far was with auto-rev match enabled... with it disabled, things were far worse! The CDV effectively delays the engagement of the clutch, and if you rev-match manually, you have to make sure to rev higher than you really need, because the clutch isn't going to bite when you lift off the pedal, because it's delayed.

If you choose not to rev match, things get awful fast. The delay caused by the CDV lets the revs drop far too much as you downshift, and even if you try to slowly let the clutch bite in, that doesn't happen smoothly.

Before I removed the CDV, I'd assumed that these behaviours were due to the tune of the engine, or an overly aggressive sports engine / flywheel / clutch combination, but I now know that's not the case.

One last point... I've heard from non-M owners that the CDV causes the clutch to slip between shifts. I never found this to be the case with my M2; the shifts were delayed and sometimes not smooth, but there wasn't any slippage. This leads me to think that the M-series clutch / flywheel / CDV combination might have different issue characteristics for M owners than non-M owners. It's probably worth doing for both M and non-M, but if you're getting slipping with the CDV, my comments above may not apply.

If you are considering removing the CDV, take a look at this thread about the issues bleeding the clutch... and the solution: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=25374364

[Nezil]

For the record, I initially had the Burger clutch stop, and found that this improved the long throw a lot, making shifts more comfortable.

I then did the CDV delete and this improved the smoothness of shifting a lot, particularly with rev-match disabled.

Finally, I added the Ultimate Clutch Pedal, and this does make a difference, but I wouldn't recommend spending the money... (sorry to the manufacturer). Contrary to what others have said, I felt that moving the spring tension to anything other than the stock position actually made the clutch feel less linear, and the shorter throw makes the bite point smaller in the throw, and therefore slightly harder to control in stop / start traffic.

I've got used to the UCP now, and with the spring in the stock position it's fine, so I'm leaving it in place. My point is simply that it's not worth the money because the biggest benefits come from the CDV removal, and the clutch stop. Combined those two cost less than $30 if you have the tools, and less than $100 if you don't.

[chmura]

Originally Posted by Nezil

For the record, I initially had the Burger clutch stop, and found that this improved the long throw a lot, making shifts more comfortable.

I then did the CDV delete and this improved the smoothness of shifting a lot, particularly with rev-match disabled.

Finally, I added the Ultimate Clutch Pedal, and this does make a difference, but I wouldn't recommend spending the money... (sorry to the manufacturer). Contrary to what others have said, I felt that moving the spring tension to anything other than the stock position actually made the clutch feel less linear, and the shorter throw makes the bite point smaller in the throw, and therefore slightly harder to control in stop / start traffic.

I've got used to the UCP now, and with the spring in the stock position it's fine, so I'm leaving it in place. My point is simply that it's not worth the money because the biggest benefits come from the CDV removal, and the clutch stop. Combined those two cost less than $30 if you have the tools, and less than $100 if you don't.

I really want to do the CDV delete. One thing I'm still confused about is the reverse bleeding method. Hope there was a you tube video showing how to properly bleed the slave cylinder.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by chmura

I really want to do the CDV delete. One thing I'm still confused about is the reverse bleeding method. Hope there was a you tube video showing how to properly bleed the slave cylinder.

As I explained in the thread I linked to 2 posts above, I don't think reverse bleeding is the correct approach, and could potentially damage one way valves in the system.

Pressure bleeding (must be with an auto refilling system) from the top is the BMW suggested way in ISTA+, and I've successfully done it on my own by simply refilling the reservoir after every other pump of the pedal.

It's difficult to work out the process, or to see why it's problematic, which is why I wrote the thread, but once you know how, it's really very quick and easy.

[Hoverdog]

I installed the ultimate clutch pedal and it helps a lot. Feel is much better though 1 - 2 shift is still sloppy.

[Imperial328i]

At first I thought it was a little hard, but now that I'm used to it I find it very smooth. Easier to drive smoothly than my MK7 GTI was.

[Kankles]

It's fine to me, same as the F80 and very similar to the E46 M3 clutch feel. There is definitely adjustment period if you're coming from JDM slick shifters (ah Honda I love your MT)

[jmh600cbr]

This is literally the easiest MT I've ever had. So many nannies.

[Sedan_Clan]

Originally Posted by Kankles

It's fine to me, same as the F80 and very similar to the E46 M3 clutch feel. There is definitely adjustment period if you're coming from JDM slick shifters (ah Honda I love your MT)

You know it's funny......back when I was big into Honda's and street racing, the S2000 was touted as having the slickest manual transmission on the market. I spent a lot of seat time in the S2K back then, but couldn't, for the life of me, see what the hype was all about. I'll take my F8X's manual over any manual I've driven thus far.

[skier219]

This may sound nuts, but by accident I found the car is a whole lot more enjoyable for me with the throttle set to normal/comfort. I spent the first 1000 miles driving in sport or sport+, and while the power and acceleration is intoxicating, I accidentally discovered that the car is more fun to drive in normal/comfort. The throttle tip-in is smooth, the power comes on linearly, and I can wind up to higher RPMs in everyday driving. It feels more like a sports car that takes some driver involvement, and is more inline with some of my past sports cars.

I still put it in sport when I want to haul off the line, but darned if normal/comfort isn’t smoother and more engaging on an everyday basis. This would be the first modern BMW I have owned where I don’t immediately put it into sport as soon as I start the car.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Sedan_Clan

You know it's funny......back when I was big into Honda's and street racing, the S2000 was touted as having the slickest manual transmission on the market. I spent a lot of seat time in the S2K back then, but couldn't, for the life of me, see what the hype was all about. I'll take my F8X's manual over any manual I've driven thus far.

I still think the S2000 shifter (with a few small mods) is the best shifter I've ever had my hands on.

Originally Posted by skier219

This may sound nuts, but by accident I found the car is a whole lot more enjoyable for me with the throttle set to normal/comfort. I spent the first 1000 miles driving in sport or sport+, and while the power and acceleration is intoxicating, I accidentally discovered that the car is more fun to drive in normal/comfort. The throttle tip-in is smooth, the power comes on linearly, and I can wind up to higher RPMs in everyday driving. It feels more like a sports car that takes some driver involvement, and is more inline with some of my past sports cars.

I still put it in sport when I want to haul off the line, but darned if normal/comfort isn’t smoother and more engaging on an everyday basis. This would be the first modern BMW I have owned where I don’t immediately put it into sport as soon as I start the car.

Doesn't sound nuts, Sport+ is way too jerky for me, so I drive in Sport. The throttle in Comfort just turns me off. I would say the car is easier to drive in Comfort though, to me at least.

[MPBK]

I may be a bit late in this thread, but wanted to add:
I have the DCT on both 135i and M2. The DCT in the M2 is much improved, in about all aspects.
DCT completely takes care of the smoothness as far as the gas pedal is concerned - shifting, rev match, etc. Default in the M2 it is the Comfort mode, which I almost never use because it's boring for a car like the M2, but comes in handy when you have passengers in the car that don't like to be driven, not shaken. It's not just rpms and shifting points. The gas mappings are also changed, so the gas pedal feels different. I guess if you have the 6M manual, you only have one mapping and that's the equivalent to the Sport+ mode in DCT.
DCT does nothing for the brake pedal - I still find the M2 much harder to brake smoothly. I can't get the "limousine stop" as easily as in the 135i. Maybe that gets better as the pads wear off a bit.

[Poochie]

Some dude in the F30 section discovered that the clutch slave cylinder from the E-Series BMW, without a CDV built in, works directly on the F-Series setup.

This is the easiest route in eliminating the CDV and still maintaining OEM specs.

I never had an issue with shifting before but when the weather warms up in the springtime, I'm going to try this mod, just for the hell of it and see if it improves the overall shift feel..


*Newer* CDV Delete Method (Easier Way!) https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1666477

[LuvMyE92]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Some dude in the F30 section discovered that the clutch slave cylinder from the E-Series BMW, without a CDV built in, works directly on the F-Series setup.

Thanks Poochie!

[heavyD^2]

Originally Posted by jmh600cbr

This is literally the easiest MT I've ever had. So many nannies.

Yeah it's so easy that I think my wife could drive my car without grinding the gears and I used to cringe sitting as a passenger in her old manual equipped Mazda 3.

[baege]

bringing this thread back from the dead as it doesn't touch on my sense that I find it a little hard to get moving from dead stop smoothly with this 6MT?

but maybe that's just me

[JustChris]

Only the change up from 1-2 ever seems hard to execute perfectly and smootbly

[TemjinX2]

when i removed my cdv it smoothed out the transition and i could shift into gear faster...its a nice cheap mod

[chris719]

Originally Posted by baege

bringing this thread back from the dead as it doesn't touch on my sense that I find it a little hard to get moving from dead stop smoothly with this 6MT?

but maybe that's just me

From my experience with the CDV in the Z4M, it was really only noticeable when modulating the clutch from a stop or in reverse. So, if that’s what you’re looking for I think it would be worthwhile for you.

[VisualEcho]

I just wanted to update this thread with my experience now, since when I made the thread I had owned the car for just a month and 3 days, and now I've had it a little over 7 months.

Taking off is a breeze.
The 1-2 shift I get right about 85% of the time, which is fine.
The rest of the shifts are easy.
I still think the gaps between the gears, side to side, is too wide, but the throw is fine.

And I now really like the auto-rev feature.

[WedgeSalad]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

I just wanted to update this thread with my experience now, since when I made the thread I had owned the car for just a month and 3 days, and now I've had it a little over 7 months.

Taking off is a breeze.
The 1-2 shift I get right about 85% of the time, which is fine.
The rest of the shifts are easy.
I still think the gaps between the gears, side to side, is too wide, but the throw is fine.

And I now really like the auto-rev feature.

As someone with very minimal manual experience do you think it would be a difficult car to learn on? Is learning on a car with rev matching a bad idea? I have a DCT but considering a manual as I have a daily driver now.