10-02-2020, 05:28 PM | #23 |
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Don't forget the oil temp gauge that came with LCI's, that's a big one for me.
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10-02-2020, 11:07 PM | #24 |
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Yeah forgot to mention that your idea of just retrofitting items later on will end up costing you more than just buying an LCI from the start. It would actually put you into m2c territory
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10-03-2020, 06:37 AM | #25 | |
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10-03-2020, 07:52 AM | #26 |
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Personally, I prefer the look of the dash on the passenger side from 2016-17. The way the trim piece ends on the 2018+ is peculiar.
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10-03-2020, 10:16 AM | #27 | ||
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Point is, you won't be able to buy the adaptives and sell the standard LEDs and come out at net circa $1K, and especially without a lot of patience (no one is gonna buy your used non-adaptive lights for upgrade purposes, except those who need a replacement due to an accident). |
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10-03-2020, 02:10 PM | #28 |
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The price differences aren't much from 16-18 in terms of an average 60 month loan. For example, you're looking at roughly $90 more if you add $5k to your purchase price. If you're going to end up doing all the lci mods you should just get lci. You'll end up paying the same if not more with all the costs of adding them on later. Just my two cents
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10-03-2020, 06:08 PM | #29 | |
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I like to let it get up to at least 180 before I start using much beyond 3K. Plus, the pre-LCI looked way to much like the 2008 128i that I was coming out of. The LCI is just so much more future proof. |
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10-03-2020, 09:20 PM | #30 |
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10-03-2020, 09:40 PM | #31 |
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Modding an older car up to LCI spec is going to cost you a lot of money- both in the cost of parts and labor, but also in the resale hit you’re going to take. I don’t care if you make every mod to make a ‘17 identical to an ‘18- it’s still only going to be worth what a ‘17 is and you’re going to lose all of that money.
If you want the LCI upgrades but can’t afford it, just take more time to save for the car you want. For me personally it’s more about the warranty that is left... driving BMWs out of warranty is a risky proposition. Most of the 17s are coming up on the end of the warranty soon or already have, which makes the LCI the choice right now. I bought a ‘17 last year because it had 1.5 years of warranty left and ‘18s were a $5k premium easy. If I were buying today, I’d be looking at the LCI. The “sweet spot” M2s from a value perspective are in that $40-43k range. |
10-04-2020, 12:48 PM | #32 | |
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Reading the context of the quoted text is a good idea for comprehension. |
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10-04-2020, 01:17 PM | #33 | |
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That slightly different dash layout just makes it future-proof. |
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10-04-2020, 01:30 PM | #34 |
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True, the lack of oil temp gauge is a real annoyance in the pre-LCI, especially since it was standard in my 135i (not sure about 128i referenced above).
In my 135i, I had 3 different places to read oil temp: gauge (and not hidden in OBC), electronic steering wheel, and p3 gauge. I guess I'll have to put a p3 gauge in my 2017. |
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10-04-2020, 02:26 PM | #35 |
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As a weekend canyon/occasional track car I don't think I've ever felt the need for an exact number display for oil temp. The water+oil sliding gauge works just fine for monitoring.
Of course if planning to run a lot of dedicated track work, that becomes much more important. In that case I'll be wanting a multi function dedicated display installed either way. |
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10-04-2020, 03:21 PM | #36 | |
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10-04-2020, 08:02 PM | #37 |
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How long and how many miles do you plan to own your M2?
The LCI with 29k miles for $38k is a decent deal, especially if your going to put 10k miles in two years and trade it in. You wouldn't even own it out of warranty. If you are looking for a keeper, the less miles the better probably. The newest with 5-10k miles and all the service records would be fitting. And expect to pay a bit of a premium, garage queen owners usually want more money. For budget, the OG presents a great opportunity for a value keeper, but you'd likely see much less trade value in the future, especially with 40-50k miles. Consider if you are trading within a couple years, an LCI could still be CPO by a dealer, which gives you a little bit of an advantage. So the in-service date matters depending on your anticipated length of ownership. The adaptive lights, back up camera, nicer cluster, newer iDrive, etc will be selling features. None of that would matter though if you plan to keep it. 10 yrs from now they will probably all value about the same. |
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10-05-2020, 03:19 PM | #38 |
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Same. I have a short commute, so the car barely gets up to 200 by the time I get to the office. The oil temp readout is super important to me because it means I can safely enjoy just a little bit of boost and noise before I arrive.
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10-06-2020, 11:46 PM | #39 |
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Also, get a PPI done by a 3rd party. When I was shopping for mine I had 2 inspected before I finally found one which didn't have multiple body panels repainted/bondo'ed to hell.
I got a 2017 with 28k miles on it last November. My original plan was to drive it three years and I budgeted about 10k a year for running costs and depreciation and then I would sell it. Now at 11 months ownership I don't see myself getting rid of it anytime soon. Last time I was at my indy for oil he wanted to buy it off of me so I take that as a sign I should keep it. |
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10-09-2020, 05:09 PM | #40 |
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Definitely worth the upgrade! The 2018 is a rarer car and besides the updated LED lighting (HUGE difference) you get a newer iDrive touchscreen and also awesome jet black led instrument cluster. Well worth it for a car like this.
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10-09-2020, 11:18 PM | #41 |
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Rarer than what? Technically the 2018 was the biggest year of production for the OG. North America (US/Canada) received (marginally) more 2018s than 2016/2017 model years combined:
2016/2017: 3493 2018: 3495 No disagreement that the 2018 LCI is the best OG model though... |
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10-10-2020, 01:33 PM | #43 |
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I just like the way the LCI lights work in the rain. They seem much better than xenons to me.
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10-31-2020, 10:01 PM | #44 |
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So I went with a 2017 loaded with M performance accessories including the Bluetooth exhaust.
Thanks everyone for your advice!
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