[FaRKle!]

As a follow up to how I used the DME replacement method to have a tunable vehicle, here's the DIY on how to remove and replace the DME. Definitely not the fastest job out there with the multitude of connectors and wires that have to be handled!

Originally Posted by Index

0:00 Intro
0:58 Engine Cover and Intercooler Removal
5:46 Intake Manifold Cables Removal
8:38 Throttle Body Pipe Removal
10:20 DME Connectors Removal
12:35 Intake Manifold Loosening
15:04 Throttle Body Connections Removal
15:47 Intake Manifold Removal
16:19 DME Removal From/Installation on Intake Manifold
18:12 Intake Manifold Placement
19:41 Throttle Body Connections Installation
20:14 Intake Manifold Installation
21:13 Connecting DME Connectors
23:29 Intake Manifold Rear Cables Installation
27:03 Throttle Body Pipe Installation
29:34 Intake Manifold Top Cables Installation
29:59 Intercooler Installation
32:13 Securing Top Cables/Hoses
33:39 Installing Engine Cover
33:59 Conclusion

[efi.andy]

Great video! It's crazy how the DME is cooled by the intake manifold.

[symalik84]

Thank you for posting all the details!! It takes like 3x the amount of time to do the same job when recording a diy. Appreciate you doing it for the rest of us!

[CosmosMpower]

So you bought a second DME and tuned that one and if you ever have a warranty claim you'll swap back to your original un-tuned DME? How much was it to get a 2nd DME and code it, etc? Is it plug and play once it's coded to the car or is there additional work to swap it each time?

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by efi.andy

Great video! It's crazy how the DME is cooled by the intake manifold.

I wish I had been a fly on the wall in the meetings where that was decided. Listening to the tradeoffs would've been interesting.

Originally Posted by symalik84

Thank you for posting all the details!! It takes like 3x the amount of time to do the same job when recording a diy. Appreciate you doing it for the rest of us!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

So you bought a second DME and tuned that one and if you ever have a warranty claim you'll swap back to your original un-tuned DME? How much was it to get a 2nd DME and code it, etc? Is it plug and play once it's coded to the car or is there additional work to swap it each time?

Yes, I bought a second DME and had the original DME's identifying info written to it. It was plug and play when I got it. I can swap between the DMEs at any time and don't need to swap when I go to the dealer since both DMEs report the original flash date, original tune ID info, and flash counter set to 1.

I traded my friend a nicer set of suspension for it.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

I wish I had been a fly on the wall in the meetings where that was decided. Listening to the tradeoffs would've been interesting.

Fairly clever. It's probably not dissipating more than 25 watts or something in that ballpark I would assume. Dominated by the thermals around it I would guess.

[M2C_PLUS]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

I wish I had been a fly on the wall in the meetings where that was decided. Listening to the tradeoffs would've been interesting.

Thanks!

Yes, I bought a second DME and had the original DME's identifying info written to it. It was plug and play when I got it. I can swap between the DMEs at any time and don't need to swap when I go to the dealer since both DMEs report the original flash date, original tune ID info, and flash counter set to 1.

I traded my friend a nicer set of suspension for it.

Is it your thinking that BMW will not know you are tuned because those three items are "OEM spec"? Are you aware of the data BMW's software spots is out of "OEM spec" when they plug in your car?

Think of tuning boxes that owners have removed and their cars have automatically flag up "suspected tuning" when the dealer plugs in the OBD.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by M2C_PLUS

Is it your thinking that BMW will not know you are tuned because those three items are "OEM spec"? Are you aware of the data BMW's software spots is out of "OEM spec" when they plug in your car?

Think of tuning boxes that owners have removed and their cars have automatically flag up "suspected tuning" when the dealer plugs in the OBD.

The tuning boxes get flagged due to dme having test routines for plausibility against modeled maps, a very simple routine, that often triggers information codes in the dme.

[M2C_PLUS]

Originally Posted by Enabled

The tuning boxes get flagged due to dme having test routines for plausibility against modeled maps, a very simple routine, that often triggers information codes in the dme.

So the above "three oem spec" ref points make no difference to the car being flagged regardless of a remap or tuning box then.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by M2C_PLUS

So the above "three oem spec" ref points make no difference to the car being flagged regardless of a remap or tuning box then.

If I understood the question correctly, those items and a few more certainly ARE very important for the suspected tuning routine in ISTA.

[M2C_PLUS]

Originally Posted by Enabled

If I understood the question correctly, those items and a few more certainly ARE very important for the suspected tuning routine in ISTA.

I agree with you.

If you had two cars, both tuned, one Farkle's way with those 3 items he mentions set as factory spec and one tuned with a Tuning box (then removed) both cars would be auto flagged for "suspected tuning" once plugged in?

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by M2C_PLUS

I agree with you.

If you had two cars, both tuned, one Farkle's way with those 3 items he mentions set as factory spec and one tuned with a Tuning box (then removed) both cars would be auto flagged for "suspected tuning" once plugged in?

I made Farkle's DME, and it was a bit more than just those items.


The ISTA system is very picky. Even an update to a dme that wasn't done by a logged dealer computer will trigger 'suspected tuning'. That means that if you flash update your own dme with esys, the dealer computer will see that the software ID is not matching to what should be on there, and it will also trigger the 'suspected tuning' flag.
Note, the dealer tech has to run the suspected tuning service function in order to determine if the car is tuned or not, for warranty purposes; although the flag can get recorded.



A tuning box that is added on and then removed can only really be traced if the tuning box isn't of a great quality and if it triggers codes inside the DME. Keep in mind, the ignition key keeps track of the car's DTC, and that data does get transferred over.
Otherwise a tuning box is often untraceable to the car systems once removed.

[MR RIZK]

I could be wrong but the words chosen by FaRKle! and Enabled is they are not using the ecu swap to circumvent or hide that it has been tuned but to actually have the car tuned while still being able to go to the dealer for routine works.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

I could be wrong but the words chosen by FaRKle! and Enabled is they are not using the ecu swap to circumvent or hide that it has been tuned but to actually have the car tuned while still being able to go to the dealer for routine works.

Exactly right

[M2C_PLUS]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

I could be wrong but the words chosen by FaRKle! and Enabled is they are not using the ecu swap to circumvent or hide that it has been tuned but to actually have the car tuned while still being able to go to the dealer for routine works.

Must be different in the US then because I and many others get "routine work" done at dealers in the UK without issue while being visibly tuned .

So oh course, kept the flash counter at zero etc for routine works

[M2C_PLUS]

Originally Posted by Enabled

Exactly right

What routine works require the flash counter to be at zero and original the tune ID to be present?

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by M2C_PLUS

What routine works require the flash counter to be at zero and original the tune ID to be present?

Flash counter and the calibration ID (as well as the usual btld/swfl/cafd items of the svk) should match original in order to attract less attention to the car.



I had helped with one F30 where someone had asked me to return it back to stock remotely. The flash counter was at 63, because they played with the flasher apps to make changes to their tune. Well, esys refused to flash initially, due to the flash counter. There are ways around it, of course. Dealer's ISTA would not override and would simply say that flash counter is full.

[FaRKle!]

Worked with a forum member to swap his 2021's DME today! Physical swap took 1hr 40min, then Enabled did the rest.

Now there are two unlocked and tuned 2021 cars in NA!

[Enabled]

That's very fast! Impressed

[efi.andy]

I'm happy to report back that their solution works flawlessly, and I'm now a lucky owner of an unlocked and tuned '21 M2C!

Farkle took time out of his Saturday to remove & replace my DME, all while making sure to torque everything according to spec when putting it back together. There's a ton of little clips and things that get in the way and I'm super appreciative of the care and time he took to work on my car.

Huge Kudos to Farkle and Enabled for coming up with a solution for '21 M2C owners! I'm super impressed of how this all came together, much respect goes out to Enabled for his intimate knowledge of how BMW systems function and his ability to problem solve. Thank you so much!

[Anonymoose]

About to embark on this journey. Wish me luck!

[ROBM2C]

Another great video from Farkle !