11-03-2020, 01:27 PM | #375 | |
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If you're looking at a different diagram I can take a look at it and see. To my knowledge we just need the insulation and the clips (still waiting on mine). |
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11-03-2020, 01:41 PM | #376 | |
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https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...ad-51487221993 . On that diagram the insulation is part #4 but there are other items that are likely part of the hood system as you pointed out. Thanks. I hope we ordered the right stuff. |
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11-07-2020, 02:43 AM | #377 | ||
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11-07-2020, 09:37 PM | #378 | |
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I did not remove the back seat. I think I removed the C pillar trim. The side panel? Code:
Important! Risk of damage! Lower section of side trim panel may separate from side trim panel upper section. Detach edge protection (1) in area of side trim panel (3). Release side trim panel (3) from clip (2) and clamps (4) and remove it. Installation note: Replace faulty clips (2) and clamps (4). |
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11-08-2020, 12:25 AM | #379 | ||
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11-13-2020, 09:13 PM | #380 |
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Hey Zeese ,
I'm trying to put in the trunk insulation but I'm having a hell of a time removing that round circular rubber thing on the drivers side rear fender well. Any strategies you recommend? Edit: Just checked all the pictures, for future reference, everyone cuts because they can't remove the rubber plug thingy with wires in it. Last edited by m3username; 11-14-2020 at 12:23 PM.. |
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11-18-2020, 01:38 AM | #381 | |
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https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=356
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11-25-2020, 11:03 PM | #382 |
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Okay, completely finished with the install and finally had a chance to get past 65 on the freeway. The difference is pretty remarkable, before I would have to yell to have a conversation at speed, now it's a talking volume. A lot of noise is reduced.
Being willing to cut the insulation during the install made life a lot easier. There are a couple spots that are down-right unrealistic to remove and reinstall the component. Towards the end I was cutting it down to the shape I needed. No need to remove the c-pillars, trim panels can come on/off without it. All in all the easiest car interior I've ever worked on, just make sure to have a few panel tools on hand and a willingness to research how things come apart. |
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Poochie9104.50 Drifter2090909.50 |
12-29-2020, 07:05 AM | #383 |
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On those rear lateral trim panels, they are concave with another concave section. Did any of you notice what goes in the concave areas? Would it be possible to simply build this panel (cover the big hole) with homemade MLV and/or CLD pieces?
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12-29-2020, 11:40 AM | #384 | |
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You can definitely build a panel instead of ordering the OEM one, I think the benefit of the OEM one is that it's shaped to get rid of any resonance that would occur for a flat panel but if you're loaded up with MLV/CLD it probably wouldn't be an issue. |
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12-29-2020, 10:23 PM | #385 |
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https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1600986769
Yes, I mean the metal panels you order to fill in the holes beside the rear seats. It’s an oddly shaped panel, so I’m wondering if something fits in that space or if the engineers made it concave to change the resonant frequencies. My M2 has not been pulled apart yet, so I can’t physically see what’s there. Filling this hole with MLV and/or CLD and applying bonded acoustic cotton and/or hydrophobic melamine foam to the cavity behind it should reduce noise there materially. Another comment: many here are ordering the rear sound insulating panels. It looks like the insulation there is typical BMW ~3/4” acoustic cotton with a compressed scrim layer for maintaining shape. Have any of you simply made your own insulating panel with a sheet of 1” acoustic cotton? Or a combination of MLV and an absorber? |
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12-30-2020, 01:51 PM | #386 | |
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01-01-2021, 02:42 PM | #387 |
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sound deadening
To those who have installed the sound deadening material under the front hood, any issues with heat or ventilation? The cut out on the underside of the hood seems to fit the area of top of the engine well. Unsure if there will be an issue if I re-install the under hood insulation piece.
Purchased the parts to reinstall all of the sound deadening material as noted previously in this post and was getting ready to the install when I notice the above which generated my question. Thanks in advance for input, Sean |
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01-01-2021, 03:33 PM | #389 |
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No issues with the hood blanket on my M2C.
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01-02-2021, 10:50 AM | #390 |
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On the ventilation questions, guys this is a liquid cooled engine, not air cooled. The radiators cool the engine; ventilation is only relevant as it pertains to venting the radiators.
Question: I’m really struggling with removing the rear trunk plastic trim panel after taking out the four pins. What’s the trick with working around the trunk weather seal, which seems to have a ferocious grip! Yes, the carpets will come out without removing it, but I’m doing my own sound insulation work instead of using oem pads, so test fitting would be easier with it out. |
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01-02-2021, 11:37 AM | #391 |
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Very good point about it being a liquid cooled engine. However I assume there needs to be sufficient clearance above the engine as well. Excessive heat or fire hazard? Just don't want to create a larger problem by not thinking it through. May be analysis paralysis on my part
As for your question (@snrubel) I have not done the trunk/rear area yet but would be happy to comment when I get there. Probably several weeks off due to work and not wanting to work in a very cold garage. Thanks Sean |
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01-04-2021, 02:06 PM | #392 | |
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I hated this part, it's definitely not something you want to do a lot if you can avoid it. |
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01-07-2021, 11:05 AM | #393 | |
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Once the seal if off, I found pulling the plastic panel out and up from the bottom works best. I've had it off like 4 times now and pulling from the bottom is the way to go, there really is nothing else holding it as far as I can tell. Putting the seal back on requires a smooth trim tool and a rubber mallet. Look at it before you remove it, there is a part that is shaped for the metal lip (П) and a flap for going over the side panels and plastic panel, I found it easier to do the side panels as I install the seal but I put the plastic panel on last and tucked it under by pulled the flap back with my fingers. In addition to the acoustic cotton, I put Kilmat Car Sound Deadening (cheaper than Dynamat on Amazon) on the body where the metal was still exposed.
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02-03-2021, 08:44 PM | #394 |
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So-- I have the two trunk pieces, two wheel arch pieces, and the two metal pieces for the door side panels.
Since the TIS site is no longer with us, I stopped by the body shop that painted/installed my Euro-spec bumper to get an estimate. I figured that since most people who've done this have done it in 3-4 hours it would be somewhere in this ballpark. Since I can't access TIS and don't know how the body comes apart, I figured "Why not?" The answer? FOURTEEN HOURS of labor. I was a little shocked, as I was thinking somewhere around six, tops. Now, I guess I have to figure out how to do this on my own when I get a free day-- and who knows when that'll be? Sigh. And I *like* that body shop-- they do good work. R. |
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02-03-2021, 09:50 PM | #395 |
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cover for side sections, left and right
These? Similar the OG M2 #6 below?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...02#41007294289 If yes, these are not such a chore. Patience. Maybe an hour. I was not comfortable with the plastic pins for the installation. Gaps and rattles? Some sort of tape or caulk or weatherstrip adhesive works. I made this harder than it had to be by declaring victory too early. Even then, it did not take long to get the trim pieces back in place correctly. Fourteen hours! Crazy ... |
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02-03-2021, 09:52 PM | #396 | |
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