[MASHCT]

Howdy fellow M-Modifier addicts!

Swapped out my Wagner Intercooler (that came on my used 2017 M2) for a new, silver powder-coat CSF Intercooler. I wanted to give you the story of the swap & some pitfalls/things I encountered that had I known up-front, the install would have gone way smoother & quicker.

Maybe I can save you some minutes & ducats, and at the same time, give you the confidence to do this yourself if you're hesitant.

I'm gonna be detailed below as I want to explain everything I encountered. I wish I took pics while I installed, but not the first thing on my mind with the problems I found.

I'll post pics of the installed intercooler when the sun comes out. Also - CSF sends a cardboard stencil you can use to spray their logo onto the FMIC core if you wanted to. I didn't do it - would have used a darker silver so it was subtle if I had done it. Kinda a neat touch they included that.

Thanks to Mike @X-PH for the super fast delivery!! (Just a shout out - no favors given to me to say that. I really like dealing with X-PH.)

If you're curious - the Wagner EVO II weighs 24.2 lbs; the CSF is 25.2 lbs.

There are 2, 3/4" OEM screws that hold the intercooler in place. This is not long enough to support the intercooler & get enough holding power to hold the weight of an aftermarket FMIC. The tabs on aftermarket FMICs are THICK - maybe 1/4" - leaving you with only 1/2" securing the FMIC, maybe less.

CSF will send you some 2" phillips-head screws & washers. They look substantial - trust me, they're 100% total shyte!! They are too fat & once they grab, they get stuck & the phillips-head SHREDS & STRIPS. NO BUENO!

The washers they send are no way, no where, no how big enough to cover the slot & serve their intended purpose (the supplied screw heads pass right through the slots, and so will the ones you get from the hardware store.)

So before you start anything - and trust me here - go to a hardware store & pick up 1 1/4" # 12 sheet metal screws. Hex-head or torx head are ideal - but the hex-head was too shallow in my view & for #12, all they had were 1 1/2" long screws. You need 3/4" washers with a 1/4" center hole.
The CSF is a well made, well finished FMIC. (But they gotta fix their mounts so they're not so big that a screw & smaller washer won't pass thru the holes.)

I had 2 problems right from the start:

1) Only ONE OEM screw was installed to hold in the Wagner FMIC. So on the outlet side, all that was holding that sucker in place was the boost pipe! More on this later...

2) Because of that, the air-flow shroud on the bumper-side of the underbody was busted. I think the FMIC busted it from bouncing around. (Now I know what was causing the thudding/rattling in the front of the car!) This piece is actually part of something else so I can't just replace that part - I will have to replace the entire shroud. So - FlexTape to the rescue (for now).

Prepare yourself that you may need tools, clamps, screws & washers before you start. You don't want to start & then have to reinstall to crap to head to the store.

Here's what I can tell you that you should do to ensure the easiest, smoothest & quickest install. Had I known this, I'd say the install would take 30 mins tops. It's painfully easy if everything goes right - or you prepare for problems ahead of time.

1) The CSF mates perfectly to the FTP charge and boost pipes. No leaks - perfect fit. BUT - you have to do some work to align everything for a correct, solid install.

2) There is a plastic air-flow shroud that extends from the bumper & meets the FMIC. This MAY get in your way - it didn't for me because mine was busted off. I do not know what it's attached to in order to tell you what you have to remove to get it out.

In the second pic, you can see the open space between the bumper & FMIC where this shroud should be.

You can also see the washers I used to span the gap in the mounts. I was lucky to have those in my toolbox.

3) You will need an 8mm socket to remove the big plastic underbody cladding attached to bumper & the large metal plate under the engine bay.

4) I strongly recommend you remove the large metal body-cladding under the engine bay. It's the piece that has the center-mount jack spot. I forget the size of the socket - I want to say 10mm, 11mm, 12mm - one of those.

This is how, if you have aftermarket charge/boost pipes, you will gain access to the pipe clamps for the silicone mid-pipe that holds the 2 metal pipes together.

One issue I had was that no matter how hard I pushed, I could not get the Wagner's mount to line up to the hole for the screw (to remount so I could go to home depot...) Nor could I get the CSF to mount correctly. Turns out it was because the silicone midpipe was not installed correctly for either FMIC to truly line up with the pipes, seat the pipes to the FMIC fully & install the screw on the boost side of the FMIC.

There is a reason those silicone midpipes are there - they help you get everything aligned to everything fits together tightly & you can install the FMIC in the correct position.

5) Loosen the hose clamps on both the charge & boost silicone mid-pipes AND remove the OEM clip that holds the charge pipe in place at the motor. You do not need to unclip/dismount the boost side but you do have to loosen the hose clamps.

You can only access those hose clamps by removing that large metal underbody plate.

6) I installed the charge pipe side first, clipped the pipe to the FMIC. This was sufficient to hold the FMIC in place while I played around on the boost side. That for me was the more challenging side.

The CSF weighs 25 lbs, but I didn't find it too heavy/cumbersome/tiring to have to lift & hold it in place while I connected everything. Honestly, that was the easiest part & I did this by myself.

7) For me, installing the metal boost pipe to the FMIC first, then sliding that into the silicone mid-pipe was easiest. Then, slide the hose clamps into place but do not tighten.

8) Push the FMIC into place. As you do this you may have to move, turn & twist the charge & boost pipes some. Push up hard so the mounts meet the bottom of the holes - you do not want a gap here - and install the 2 mounting screws & washers.

9) Install the charge pipe & OEM C-clip.

10) Now, tighten all of the hose-clamps.

Reinstall all of the cladding & you're done!

[MASHCT]

Take a look at that OEM screw - you gonna trust that thing to hold in your 25lbs FMIC??

[Sundinisagod]

Thanks!! Appreciate this a lot since I’ve been leaning to the CSF myself but haven’t pulled the trigger yet due to ease of installation questions.

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by Sundinisagod

Thanks!! Appreciate this a lot since I’ve been leaning to the CSF myself but haven’t pulled the trigger yet due to ease of installation questions.

My pleasure! I am no mechanic, but I would say I have some know-how & willing to try stuff if I understand what to do. Very much a beginner. Hardest thing I ever did was brakes & rotors on my 350Z.

There are some how-to vids on youtube - I watched a bunch to get some confidence & familiarity. I think a lot of my issues were due to poor install of the Wagner. If I was replacing the OEM, and was doing the charge/boost pipes at the same time - or knew to loosen the hose clamps - I definitely would have been done in a 1/2 hour.

It's the number of screws you have to take out that's so damned time consuming.

[akkando]

Was it Wagner Evo 2 Comp or just The Evo 2?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by MASHCT

Take a look at that OEM screw - you gonna trust that thing to hold in your 25lbs FMIC??

self tapping screws like the one that holds the intercooler in place can handle up to 100lbs in weight per screw. The question is if the material can handle it, and I would say the plastic radiator mounts that these screws bolt into are capable of holding that much weight. Also these self tapping screws do have pretty deep threads so it should hold atleast the weight of the intercooler without issue.

The only problem comes when you screw and unscrew the intercooler alot (for waterpump jobs or maybe even coolant flushes etc) will the material faitigue? Probably at which time you may need a deeper screw or an even bigger screw to retap the plastic.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Thank you for the detailed review OP, happy to take part in your build

Originally Posted by akkando

Was it Wagner Evo 2 Comp or just The Evo 2?

From the weight, it looks like the regular EVO II (this model has been discontinued)

[VisualEcho]

This is fantastic.

[kthor703]

The Wagner intercooler (at least mine) came with a double-threaded stud (coarse thread for plastic, machine thread for included nuts). Just FYI.

That previous install sounded like a nightmare...

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by kthor703

The Wagner intercooler (at least mine) came with a double-threaded stud (coarse thread for plastic, machine thread for included nuts). Just FYI.

That previous install sounded like a nightmare...

Makes me wonder if how the connections weren't clean & how it was hanging there affected my dyno runs, other than the heat soak.

I am betting if that busted shroud was attached, air would have been directed better & the Wagner would have been just fine. I definitely like the silver of the CSF better so I ain't too bothered about getting/installing it, and because I did, I was made aware of the problems with the prior install anyway.

The rattling & the thudding are gone too! I thought all of that was the suspension, until that was all still there after I the Fortune Auto coilover kit installed. Now I know what all that was... sheesh.

PS. Note that I spared you all from viewing the gruesome photos of various cuts, tears & other injuries my fingers & hands sustained. LOL

[3t3p]

It's funny my DO88 caused no such issues. The screw plate is also enclosed not open ended like CSF. Better reinforced too.

But the love for CSF fetishization goes on...

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by 3t3p

It's funny my DO88 caused no such issues. The screw plate is also enclosed not open ended like CSF. Better reinforced too.

But the love for CSF fetishization goes on...

It’s not a bad intercooler, but it’s about in the same level as a good 5” cooler. The DO88 is a good one too, but I don’t think it’s carried by most vendors.

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by 3t3p

It's funny my DO88 caused no such issues. The screw plate is also enclosed not open ended like CSF. Better reinforced too.

But the love for CSF fetishization goes on...

So the other night I was all alone reading 50 Shades of Mineral Grey Metallic, and all I could think about was my CSF intercooler. The curve of the plates in the front. The TWO holes - count 'em one - two! Not silicone implants, either - these are the REAL DEAL. Then I noticed the step core - BABY'S GOT BACK, I said to myself. Next thing I know I counted the fins per INCH... inches and inches of fins. So many fins... so many inches.

I could barely contain myself, so I took off my pants.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by MASHCT

So the other night I was all alone reading 50 Shades of Mineral Grey Metallic, and all I could think about was my CSF intercooler. The curve of the plates in the front. The TWO holes - count 'em one - two! Not silicone implants, either - these are the REAL DEAL. Then I noticed the step core - BABY'S GOT BACK, I said to myself. Next thing I know I counted the fins per INCH... inches and inches of fins. So many fins... so many inches.

I could barely contain myself, so I took off my pants.

I choked laughing 😂

[3t3p]

CSF added to basket

[Tes]

Originally Posted by F87source

self tapping screws like the one that holds the intercooler in place can handle up to 100lbs in weight per screw. The question is if the material can handle it, and I would say the plastic radiator mounts that these screws bolt into are capable of holding that much weight. Also these self tapping screws do have pretty deep threads so it should hold atleast the weight of the intercooler without issue.

The only problem comes when you screw and unscrew the intercooler alot (for waterpump jobs or maybe even coolant flushes etc) will the material faitigue? Probably at which time you may need a deeper screw or an even bigger screw to retap the plastic.

I would agree, I been using the OEM screw on my CSF FMIC and I auto cross my car. Haven't ripped off yet XD

[selbyp93]

Originally Posted by MASHCT

So the other night I was all alone reading 50 Shades of Mineral Grey Metallic, and all I could think about was my CSF intercooler. The curve of the plates in the front. The TWO holes - count 'em one - two! Not silicone implants, either - these are the REAL DEAL. Then I noticed the step core - BABY'S GOT BACK, I said to myself. Next thing I know I counted the fins per INCH... inches and inches of fins. So many fins... so many inches.

I could barely contain myself, so I took off my pants.

Jesus christ hahahahhahahah

[vrooooom]

Originally Posted by MASHCT

Howdy fellow M-Modifier addicts!

CSF will send you some 2" phillips-head screws & washers. They look substantial - trust me, they're 100% total shyte!! They are too fat & once they grab, they get stuck & the phillips-head SHREDS & STRIPS. NO BUENO!

The washers they send are no way, no where, no how big enough to cover the slot & serve their intended purpose (the supplied screw heads pass right through the slots, and so will the ones you get from the hardware store.)

So before you start anything - and trust me here - go to a hardware store & pick up 1 1/4" # 12 sheet metal screws. Hex-head or torx head are ideal - but the hex-head was too shallow in my view & for #12, all they had were 1 1/2" long screws. You need 3/4" washers with a 1/4" center hole.
The CSF is a well made, well finished FMIC. (But they gotta fix their mounts so they're not so big that a screw & smaller washer won't pass thru the holes.)

Is the OEM a #12? The one supplied by CSF is thicker and wasn't a problem for me stripping. I'd assume that it would strip the plastic where it's screwed on first before the Philips. Just that would have been nice if they provided a torx-type or socket, I agree.

I didn't remove any of the c-clips. Just unengaged it.

The big aluminum plate is called a Stiffener plate, I believe, and those bolts are 1-time use (I'm told). But I admit, I have not replaced mine.

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

Is the OEM a #12? The one supplied by CSF is thicker and wasn't a problem for me stripping. I'd assume that it would strip the plastic where it's screwed on first before the Philips. Just that would have been nice if they provided a torx-type or socket, I agree.

I didn't remove any of the c-clips. Just unengaged it.

The big aluminum plate is called a Stiffener plate, I believe, and those bolts are 1-time use (I'm told). But I admit, I have not replaced mine.

Thanks for the info Vrooooom!! I didn't know what the OEM size was, I took it to home depot & looked for bolts that had a similarly sized shaft. () But I still bought one size up & one size down just in case.

I didn't like how tight the CSF bolts got in the plastic mounting hole. Not only did the head strip all to hell, I was concerned because of the thickness, they'd bust the mounting point. The size I wound up using worked perfectly & is a solid mount.

I felt very resourceful that day. LOL

Should I have put locktite on those one-time use bolts??

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by kthor703

The Wagner intercooler (at least mine) came with a double-threaded stud (coarse thread for plastic, machine thread for included nuts). Just FYI.

That previous install sounded like a nightmare...

Tell me about it. It created a lot of work for me to fix but in the end, at least I got it all mounted correctly, nice & tight. Knowing I did the work and knowing everything's aligned & mounted correctly, makes me feel more confident. Plus I fixed the insane rattling. LOL

Now the question is - how to replace that busted fan shroud so I am not using duct tape to hold it all in place. LOL LOL LOL

[SebsM2]

Originally Posted by MASHCT

Tell me about it. It created a lot of work for me to fix but in the end, at least I got it all mounted correctly, nice & tight. Knowing I did the work and knowing everything's aligned & mounted correctly, makes me feel more confident. Plus I fixed the insane rattling. LOL

Now the question is - how to replace that busted fan shroud so I am not using duct tape to hold it all in place. LOL LOL LOL

How were you able to get that stud out? Double nut method?

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by SebsM2

How were you able to get that stud out? Double nut method?

The one that stripped? I used vice grips until it was loose enough to use my fingers.

It got about halfway into the mounting hole before it got stuck, which was to me a sign that said - don't try harder. LOL Plus that was when the head started to strip. The metal is super soft. But I got it in there enough I could not use a screwdriver to get it out.

I don't think many people will have the issues I did since most of them had to do with the prior install of the Wagner FMIC. But the bolts that come with the CSF, I really don't think it's a good idea to force them.