[TheHunterHofman]

Hi all,

What spark plugs should I use when replacing them? I've heard that the original OEM plugs are not used (or recommended) by BMW anymore. I'm unaware of what plugs I should now use. Having said that, I have a few bolt-ons (an upgraded charge pipe, intercooler, turbo inlet pipe, boost pipe and cold-air intake), but stock software and downpipe. Look forward to hearing your thoughts, thank you.

Regards,

[M Fifty]

The current plug for the N55 is the RB ZMR5TPP330. It appears in many other models with the S55 engine too.

Do you have a reference for BMW not using these?

[TheHunterHofman]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

The current plug for the N55 is the RB ZMR5TPP330. It appears in many other models with the S55 engine too.

Do you have a reference for BMW not using these?

Thanks for your reply. Check this out: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1606451

You were actually replying here too; someone states to stay away from Bosch platinum plugs.

I also found this thread: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1775023

In that thread there's talk about an updated plug.

Any thoughts?

[M Fifty]

The one I mentioned above replaces the RB ZMR5TPP339 which was found in the F10 5 series, and F12/F13 6 series, so that might be it?

Neither of those links appear to work for some reason.

[Zeese]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

The one I mentioned above replaces the RB ZMR5TPP339 with was found in the F10 5 series, and F12/F13 6 series, so that might be it?

Neither of those links appear to work for some reason.

Links:

Spark Plug Change
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1606451

Which NGK Spark Plug and Gap for Stock Engine?
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1775023

[M Fifty]

Those work. And I'll stand by what I said on the 1st one.

[TheHunterHofman]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Those work. And I'll stand by what I said on the 1st one.

Thank you mate, have ordered these

[TheHunterHofman]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Those work. And I'll stand by what I said on the 1st one.

Mate, so I received these: ZR5TPP330, not the ones you said I should get. Would these work too? I believe they would, but I notice a rather large difference in price, so maybe the ones I have aren't the correct ones.

[F87source]

Ok lets clear up some spark plug information, I have not really been clear enough on this in the past and have also made some small slip ups so I want to also clarify it here:

1) If you are buying the bosch plugs you should avoid ZR5TPP339 this is the one that have cracked insulator issues.

OEM part numbers for the faulty plug is: 12120038832, 12120038894. So ensure these part numbers are not present in the spark plugs part numbers and you are fine.

Here is the bmw TSB
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...48022-9999.pdf


This spark plug should be discontinued so the chance of accidentally buying this defective plug should be low to impossible now, unless you get some really really really old stock - so just check the part numbers on the box when you get it.

2) You should be purchasing the ZR5TPP330A version which is the updated one found on the S55 and m2 n55.

The OEM part number for this plug is: 12120039634


Note these plugs can also be called "RB ZMR5TPP330" without the A at the end, so to ensure you got the correct plug see if the plug has these MFG numbers which are correct:

ZR5TPP330A
ZR5TPP330
0242145541
ZMR5TPP330
0242145590
8179, 8165

After that make sure the compatible OEM part numbers has the one bmw provides as well, then you can be sure you got the correct plug. But the important part is it is the 330 version, not the 33 version, because the 330 version (1 step colder than stock n55) is for the S55 and n55 m2 while the 33 version is for the normal n55.


Here is the FCP euro link for the correct 330A/330 spark plug that you should be buying.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...sch-0242145541



Here is the FCP euro link for the incorrect 33 version of the 33 bosch spark plug: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...037580#fitment



3) Gap: this one has been hard to find but when I get a chance I will look at ISTA again. But the stock gap for the s55 and n55 should be 0.028", while the stock gap for the n55 is 0.032". The bosch plugs IIRC come gapped from 0.032-0.035 so you proabably have to gap down to 0.028".

[mahsan988]

I'm planning on going stage 2 this week so I ordered the ZR5TPP330A to start with new spark plugs.. what should the gap be?

I have an N55 M2.
Don't plan on tracking, drag racing etc... Just want more power for spirited driving around town and occasional highway pulls.

[rtl32]

Originally Posted by mahsan988

I'm planning on going stage 2 this week so I ordered the ZR5TPP330A to start with new spark plugs.. what should the gap be?

I have an N55 M2.
Don't plan on tracking, drag racing etc... Just want more power for spirited driving around town and occasional highway pulls.

I highly suggest cancelling that order and getting NGK 97506 plugs.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...plug-ngk-96987

NGK 97506 are the industry standard when you begin tuning, majority of people who are stock turbo FBO N55 running pump or emixes use those plugs. The stock ones are hot even on the stock tune, 97506 is a more appropriate temperature range (2 steps colder).

.022 is suggested for most stock turbo applications, I use a lot of ethanol and I'm manual (longer + more sustained load during pulls) so I am .020

[F87source]

Originally Posted by rtl32

I highly suggest cancelling that order and getting NGK 97506 plugs.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...plug-ngk-96987

NGK 97506 are the industry standard when you begin tuning, majority of people who are stock turbo FBO N55 running pump or emixes use those plugs. The stock ones are hot even on the stock tune, 97506 is a more appropriate temperature range (2 steps colder).

.022 is suggested for most stock turbo applications, I use a lot of ethanol and I'm manual (longer + more sustained load during pulls) so I am .020

Actually this is a common misconception in the tuning industry and literally everyone thinks a spark plug "upgrade" or gapping down is a benefit when it's not.


Here is what I posted about plugs in another thread:


"Ok so you have 2 real options for spark plugs:

1) The OEM bosch plugs which are totally fine to use in high power level situations, and their heat range is also fine up to 700 whp (GTR's run a similar best range plug deep into the 700 whp range and they don't have issues). Now the part number is Bosch ZR5TPP330A (the A version iirc is the updated one that doesn't crack there was TSB on this).

With Bosch plugs the 3rd digit is the heat range so this has a bosch heat range of 5 which is equal to NGK's heat range of 7.

2) NGK 97506 the ngk heat range of this plug is 8 which is equal to a bosch heat range of 4. This plug is 1 step colder than the m2 n55/s55 stock plugs and 2 steps colder than the stock n54 plug.


With plugs like I said earlier no need to go colder for no reason as it can lead to bad combustion, but that doesn't seem to be an issue on these cars so it is your choice which option you want. For me I am happy with the stock plugs and they are also 1/4 the price of an NGK so i'm also saving money in the process. But do not let money savings prevent you from doing what is right for your car, if your car calls for it go for what it needs - but since I don't see many high 600whp-700 whp m2's there really is no need for it (it's like buying botique oils for no reason). Also remember to read your plugs when you change them to see if you do need to go colder, that is always the key to moving heat ranges, the 700 whp number is just a guide line it is always best to read your logs and plugs to determine if you need to switch - just like you would with a used oil analysis.




For gap start with the stock 0.028" gap and move your way down until the misfires stop. If you go too small you will get incomplete combustion and misfires and rough idles. Too big and your spark will blow out and the same misfires will occur at high boost conditions. Generally speaking mid 400 whp you won't have an issue with stock gap as that is where the m4 gts and m2cs are running. But since you are at 500 whp and with old plugs this could be a sign you need to get new plugs (tuned cars should get it ever 20k miles or less, and every 4 years as per bmw).



If you gap gets too ridiculously small like smaller than 0.022" then you probably should get upgraded coils. For the S55 there are no offerings yet (because of the air to water intercooler) - but this will change when nexyus makes the B58 coil conversion for the S55 (n55 too). This will be the best offering yet because the B58 coils make more power than the precision racewerks kit with less dwell, more spark duration, all while heating up the IGBT on the ecu less meaning better life time for that component. So wait on that kit. A result of upgraded coils is you can run a larger gap without spark blow out and thus better combustion will be had.

But honestly you can get coils on a stock car too if you want, it just depends on if you want to spend money for no reason or not. Personally I would consider getting coils at a spark gap of 0.024" or less, but if you really don't want to spend alot of cash on a coil upgrade you can push it to 0.022 or less or whenever decreasing your gap sizes just don't cut it anymore and you keep misfiring no matter what. Remember our delphi coils are already more powerful than the stock n54 coils and those guys run upgraded eldor coils (same power output as our delphis so don't waste your money switching to those) for super high power builds so there really isn't a huge need to upgrade coils prematurely.


So let me sumarize this last part because it was likely convoluted because I like to ramble:

1) If you have money to burn upgrade coils even on a stock car - why not. (If you have alot of money consider giving me some lol JK donate it to charity or something, or save it for the future I am ok).

2) If you really want to optimize your ignition setup and rather spend money here over an exhaust, colored engine cover or whatever, (a really good idea compared to the former) upgrade when your gap size gets to 0.024" or smaller.

3) This one over rides all of the above, when you begin to continue to gap down but it doesn't solve your misfires at high rpm. Or your small gap size at high rpm works fine but low rpm it starts to stumble you should get upgraded coils so you can run a bigger gap at all times.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by mahsan988

I'm planning on going stage 2 this week so I ordered the ZR5TPP330A to start with new spark plugs.. what should the gap be?

I have an N55 M2.
Don't plan on tracking, drag racing etc... Just want more power for spirited driving around town and occasional highway pulls.

Stock gap, only gap down if needed. Don't follow the tend of gapping down immediately to 0.02" because someone on the internet called for it. That's how you end up with rough idling and misfires. Spark plug gaps are not one size fits all, gap down only if your situation calls for it - i.e. misfires due to spark blow out.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by rtl32

I highly suggest cancelling that order and getting NGK 97506 plugs.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...plug-ngk-96987

NGK 97506 are the industry standard when you begin tuning, majority of people who are stock turbo FBO N55 running pump or emixes use those plugs. The stock ones are hot even on the stock tune, 97506 is a more appropriate temperature range (2 steps colder).

.022 is suggested for most stock turbo applications, I use a lot of ethanol and I'm manual (longer + more sustained load during pulls) so I am .020

Oh yeah one more thing, my friend ZM2 had some issues with rough idling due to his spark plugs being gapped to small. Upon reversion to 0.026" gap all of his rough idling went away. He also is running a stage 1 turbo upgrade, e50 fuel, pushes his car harder than literally everyone on here at 450 whp. So that should be a prime example of there isn't a one size fits all gap, it varies based on your situation and you want the largest gap possible...


Also do you have evidence that the stock plugs are running too hot?


This is also what twisted tuning (a very reputable tuner for these cars) said about spark plugs:

Originally Posted by Twisted tuning

"Just recommending someone go to a one or two step colder plug because of a changed tune is not best practice. Poor combustion and misfires can occur.
The stock heat range in the N55 is fine to 700whp or so. One step colder than N54 stock. And the same heat range as nissan GTR stock plugs. GTRs run the stock heat range to 800whp or so.
The old recommendation of one step colder per 100whp is also not accurate. I mention this because ive seen it spewed on a lot of these groups. By that recommendation people would be looking for 6 step colder plugs in some cars.
Also, which is a slightly different topic (has nothing to do with your post) but people need to stop immediately recommending .018 plug gaps just because a car is tuned.
Ideally you want the largest gap possible for a setup that promotes complete combustion without blowout (failure of the spark to jump the gap).
Long story short.... proper spark plug recommendation should come from reading the plugs for a specific setup. Not a blanket recommendation from something you’ve seen people do.
IE- my A90 supra for instance. I’ve seen some tuners already recommended colder plugs or gapped down plugs for immediate process after tuning. Well, my car... stock plugs, stock gap. At over 700whp and 720wtq and reading the plugs show no issues. And the car has not skipped a beat or misfired at all."

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by F87source

Oh yeah one more thing, my friend ZM2 had some issues with rough idling due to his spark plugs being gapped to small. Upon reversion to 0.026" gap all of his rough idling went away. He also is running a stage 1 turbo upgrade, e50 fuel, pushes his car harder than literally everyone on here at 450 whp. So that should be a prime example of there isn't a one size fits all gap, it varies based on your situation and you want the largest gap possible...


Also do you have evidence that the stock plugs are running too hot?


This is also what twisted tuning (a very reputable tuner for these cars) said about spark plugs:

Yup, F87source is right and schooled me on this. Run the widest gap you can without misfires.

I also run the Eldor coils, which are better than stock Delphi. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...or-12138657273

Or you can run the B58 coils that are even better with the conversion kit that's out, but I haven't needed to do that, yet.

[rtl32]

Originally Posted by F87source

Oh yeah one more thing, my friend ZM2 had some issues with rough idling due to his spark plugs being gapped to small. Upon reversion to 0.026" gap all of his rough idling went away. He also is running a stage 1 turbo upgrade, e50 fuel, pushes his car harder than literally everyone on here at 450 whp. So that should be a prime example of there isn't a one size fits all gap, it varies based on your situation and you want the largest gap possible...


Also do you have evidence that the stock plugs are running too hot?


This is also what twisted tuning (a very reputable tuner for these cars) said about spark plugs:

Let me note, I come from a carbed 2 stroke dirtbike world so my expectation on plug readings may be pretty critical in a DI turbo 4 stroke application.

My tuning experienced was a nightmare until I went with a colder plug and smaller gap, especially on ethanol. Tip in and high boost misfires and timing corrections all over the place that I couldn't track to any other part. Finally started gapping down and it all went away.

This thread testament to one size does not fit all, OP start with stocks if you like and see if it runs right, continue to colder/smaller gap until your car runs perfect.

[mahsan988]

Originally Posted by F87source

Actually this is a common misconception in the tuning industry and literally everyone thinks a spark plug "upgrade" or gapping down is a benefit when it's not.


Here is what I posted about plugs in another thread:


"Ok so you have 2 real options for spark plugs:

1) The OEM bosch plugs which are totally fine to use in high power level situations, and their heat range is also fine up to 700 whp (GTR's run a similar best range plug deep into the 700 whp range and they don't have issues). Now the part number is Bosch ZR5TPP330A (the A version iirc is the updated one that doesn't crack there was TSB on this).

With Bosch plugs the 3rd digit is the heat range so this has a bosch heat range of 5 which is equal to NGK's heat range of 7.

2) NGK 97506 the ngk heat range of this plug is 8 which is equal to a bosch heat range of 4. This plug is 1 step colder than the m2 n55/s55 stock plugs and 2 steps colder than the stock n54 plug.


With plugs like I said earlier no need to go colder for no reason as it can lead to bad combustion, but that doesn't seem to be an issue on these cars so it is your choice which option you want. For me I am happy with the stock plugs and they are also 1/4 the price of an NGK so i'm also saving money in the process. But do not let money savings prevent you from doing what is right for your car, if your car calls for it go for what it needs - but since I don't see many high 600whp-700 whp m2's there really is no need for it (it's like buying botique oils for no reason). Also remember to read your plugs when you change them to see if you do need to go colder, that is always the key to moving heat ranges, the 700 whp number is just a guide line it is always best to read your logs and plugs to determine if you need to switch - just like you would with a used oil analysis.




For gap start with the stock 0.028" gap and move your way down until the misfires stop. If you go too small you will get incomplete combustion and misfires and rough idles. Too big and your spark will blow out and the same misfires will occur at high boost conditions. Generally speaking mid 400 whp you won't have an issue with stock gap as that is where the m4 gts and m2cs are running. But since you are at 500 whp and with old plugs this could be a sign you need to get new plugs (tuned cars should get it ever 20k miles or less, and every 4 years as per bmw).



If you gap gets too ridiculously small like smaller than 0.022" then you probably should get upgraded coils. For the S55 there are no offerings yet (because of the air to water intercooler) - but this will change when nexyus makes the B58 coil conversion for the S55 (n55 too). This will be the best offering yet because the B58 coils make more power than the precision racewerks kit with less dwell, more spark duration, all while heating up the IGBT on the ecu less meaning better life time for that component. So wait on that kit. A result of upgraded coils is you can run a larger gap without spark blow out and thus better combustion will be had.

But honestly you can get coils on a stock car too if you want, it just depends on if you want to spend money for no reason or not. Personally I would consider getting coils at a spark gap of 0.024" or less, but if you really don't want to spend alot of cash on a coil upgrade you can push it to 0.022 or less or whenever decreasing your gap sizes just don't cut it anymore and you keep misfiring no matter what. Remember our delphi coils are already more powerful than the stock n54 coils and those guys run upgraded eldor coils (same power output as our delphis so don't waste your money switching to those) for super high power builds so there really isn't a huge need to upgrade coils prematurely.


So let me sumarize this last part because it was likely convoluted because I like to ramble:

1) If you have money to burn upgrade coils even on a stock car - why not. (If you have alot of money consider giving me some lol JK donate it to charity or something, or save it for the future I am ok).

2) If you really want to optimize your ignition setup and rather spend money here over an exhaust, colored engine cover or whatever, (a really good idea compared to the former) upgrade when your gap size gets to 0.024" or smaller.

3) This one over rides all of the above, when you begin to continue to gap down but it doesn't solve your misfires at high rpm. Or your small gap size at high rpm works fine but low rpm it starts to stumble you should get upgraded coils so you can run a bigger gap at all times.

Damn, thank you so much! This was a lot of great info. I remember reading somewhere about the 700 whp on those plugs so that's why I was comfortable ordering them. And I'll follow your recommendation about gaping.

You're awesome dude! I already bought the CarPlay from you and have a feeling the CS transmission/diff might be next, especially after stage 2 😉

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Yup, F87source is right and schooled me on this. Run the widest gap you can without misfires.

I also run the Eldor coils, which are better than stock Delphi. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...or-12138657273

Or you can run the B58 coils that are even better with the conversion kit that's out, but I haven't needed to do that, yet.

+1

But I would not run out to grab eldors as the gains are almost nonexistent vs. the delphi so imo it is wasting money to upgrade from perfectly fine delphi coils. If your stock coils are dead and you wanted a stock like replacement then it would be fine to move to eldors but otherwise don't spend to upgrade to eldor from delphi, you would be better off going to a b58 conversion.


The gains are shown by nexyus's testing with a high grade scope on the other forum.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by rtl32

Let me note, I come from a carbed 2 stroke dirtbike world so my expectation on plug readings may be pretty critical in a DI turbo 4 stroke application.

My tuning experienced was a nightmare until I went with a colder plug and smaller gap, especially on ethanol. Tip in and high boost misfires and timing corrections all over the place that I couldn't track to any other part. Finally started gapping down and it all went away.

This thread testament to one size does not fit all, OP start with stocks if you like and see if it runs right, continue to colder/smaller gap until your car runs perfect.

In that case it sounds like you need to gap down. However, did you read your plugs to see if it was running to hot? Especially with ethanol and an already 1 step colder plug vs. the n54 the chances of running hot is slim to none. I have read plugs for a few people on here now and I have never seen indications of a plug running hot thus far.


Closing the gap has been common on tuned cars especially higher mileage ones where the coils start to fade. Imo I would never let it get to 0.020", I would have upgraded coils long before, and in the event that you had to gap down this far a coil upgrade actually can yield significant power gains that you were losing due to incomplete combustion.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by mahsan988

Damn, thank you so much! This was a lot of great info. I remember reading somewhere about the 700 whp on those plugs so that's why I was comfortable ordering them. And I'll follow your recommendation about gaping.

You're awesome dude! I already bought the CarPlay from you and have a feeling the CS transmission/diff might be next, especially after stage 2 😉

No problem, just start stock, read the plugs to see if they are running too hot - literally 99% of the time if you aren't making crazy power they will not be running too hot. Then gap down if needed start with the stock gap and close it slowly as required if you have untraceable misfires.


I didn't sell you carplay lol I think that was me recommending kubax. I also don't offer cs transmission/diff flashes either, I pretty much don't sell anything on the forums I can only refer you to people who I think do a good job. Otherwise I mainly just give advice on here and do the occasional reviews.

[mahsan988]

Originally Posted by F87source

No problem, just start stock, read the plugs to see if they are running too hot - literally 99% of the time if you aren't making crazy power they will not be running too hot. Then gap down if needed start with the stock gap and close it slowly as required if you have untraceable misfires.


I didn't sell you carplay lol I think that was me recommending kubax. I also don't offer cs transmission/diff flashes either, I pretty much don't sell anything on the forums I can only refer you to people who I think do a good job. Otherwise I mainly just give advice on here and do the occasional reviews.

Ohhh that would make sense.. you recommended kubax lol

[rtl32]

Originally Posted by F87source

In that case it sounds like you need to gap down. However, did you read your plugs to see if it was running to hot? Especially with ethanol and an already 1 step colder plug vs. the n54 the chances of running hot is slim to none. I have read plugs for a few people on here now and I have never seen indications of a plug running hot thus far.


Closing the gap has been common on tuned cars especially higher mileage ones where the coils start to fade. Imo I would never let it get to 0.020", I would have upgraded coils long before, and in the event that you had to gap down this far a coil upgrade actually can yield significant power gains that you were losing due to incomplete combustion.

I was fairly certain they were cooking because the heat wash was up 4-5 threads from the tip area and the electrode area was looking pretty white. Now the border has receded back.

Since the last time I did plugs (10k ago) I have replaced my delphi coils and injectors (5-6k ago) and I actually have a new set of plugs sitting in my trunk that I was going to do today. Tomorrow I'll post up a picture of the old ones that have been in for 10k and used almost exclusively with E30-E45 on stage 2+ since the summer. Let me know what you think.

Great case of dunning kruger here, I thought I already knew what was up, I did not, thank you for all the info!! So overall, keep gaps as large as possible (for max spark area = better combustion), and gap down till there are no misfires up top (it's not getting blown out), because smaller gaps need more current and that overall seems like it should be avoided from an ignition perspective.